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1997 Corolla
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This has gotten incredibly frustrating. I'm still dealing with a no start situation. New plugs, wires, complete new distributor, crank sensor and ignition control module. Previously I had spark at plugs 2 and 3, now my son (currently a Universal Technical Institute student) says there no spark at any of the plugs. I'm open to any thoughts that anyone may have. (.And my wife would be extremely happy to have her car back. And not have to be dropped off at work anymore)..............!
You should start a dedicated thread for this.

If still no spark, I would pop the cap and make sure that the rotor is spinning like it's supposed to.
 

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1995 Toyota Corolla
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This has gotten incredibly frustrating. I'm still dealing with a no start situation. New plugs, wires, complete new distributor, crank sensor and ignition control module. Previously I had spark at plugs 2 and 3, now my son (currently a Universal Technical Institute student) says there no spark at any of the plugs. I'm open to any thoughts that anyone may have. (.And my wife would be extremely happy to have her car back. And not have to be dropped off at work anymore)..............!
Go step-by-step and the issue will be resolved.

Any codes from the computer?
 

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It has been able to start, so it hasn't run long enough to cycle through the system long enough to present any codes... Unfortunately.....
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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Got stuck in to the ZZE123 hub conversion yesterday, original intent was to run the tie-rods and rack ends from the ZZE to account for the different position on the knuckle of the tie-rod mount (it's a good 30mm outboard by comparison). However, turns out the Aus-built 102s have a TRW rack rather than a Toyota/Koyo, which means the rack thread is an M16 rather than M14 of the Jap-built stuff, and thus the ZZE tie rods and rack-ends are useless.

Oh well, figured I'd see how close the AE tie rods would go to mating up to the ZZE knuckle, and it turns out 30mm makes a hell of a lot of difference when it comes to wheel alignment.....with the steering wheel straight, the passenger side (which I hadn't touched) was still straight but the driver's side was most of the way towards full lock. Needless to say it was very difficult to push back in to the garage.....

So the hunt then began for longer tie-rods to make up the difference, the ZZE tie-rods are way longer (163mm compared to 84mm, so they'd be out just as much, but toe-in rather than toe-out) and I need something in the ~115mm range. Did some trawling through the Moog website (since they actually list sizes/lengths, unlike Protex/TruePro) and it seems the ZZT231 Celica tie rods come close (130mm), but they'll probably take up just about all my adjustment range just to get them close to straight (although I'd prefer slight toe-in to toe-out).

At least the conversion means I can now run ZZE123 aftermarket rotors which are readily available, rather than having to find the almost unicorn-fart AE111 Superstrut rotors (its only a few mm difference in offset but it's enough to make the fitment annoying). Superstrut calipers and the ST204 pad carriers also bolted straight on, and I've got a set of 20mm RCA balljoints coming from MRP to help get the lower control arm back to stock geometry (also helps with clearance between the sway bar and the tie-rod due to the ZZE tie rod taper being the opposite orientation from the AE)
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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Tie-rod difference - AE left, ZZE right

Knuckle difference (opposite sides, to compare the tie-rod bores) - AE top, ZZE bottom. Note how the ZZE tie-rod is lower and the taper is opposite (ball joint on the bottom rather than on top, due to the relative position of the racks in the two cars - AE is firewall-mounted, ZZE is subframe-mounted)


Tie-rod offset difference between ZZE123 (left) and AE102 (right)


Passenger-side (untouched) with steering straight


And the driver's side....yeah that ain't good


Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 

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That there is a fuel leak (n) wojak, thanks for asking
The tube kinked in a soft spot while trying to wrench the main line from the pump line, let it drip overnight into a coffee can. Almost 2 liters drained out
That section of fuel line to the pump I found discontinued so utmost care is required to remove the main tube from that connection

The union bolt at the filter is also stubbornly stuck, I've had a couple goes it at
 

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Token Aussie
1998 AE102, 2018 ZRE182
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So the ZZT tie rods still aren't quite right, bit too long so even with them completely wound on to the rack-ends there's still a bit of toe-in (preferable to heaps of toe-out though, but no adjustment range is bad). Also, the tie-rod hits the sway bar on full lock and full droop, but hopefully the RCAs will fix that. Before I cut the end of the 102 rack-ends I'm trying one last combination, which is SXV10 Camry rack ends and tie-rods (since the Aus-built Camrys also have the M16 TRW rack rather than the M14 Jap rack, but it means I have to use the Camry tie-rods as they are M16 too).

On the plus side, MRP 20mm-extended RCAs have arrived, as have a set of T2 DBA Sportivo rotors that I grabbed on an EOFYS (end-of-financial-year-sale for the non-Australians in the room, pronounced ee-oh-fiss), so once the Camry rods arrived I'll give it one last burl before whipping out the angle-grinder.


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At last,!!!!!!! I have found the answer!!!!! Get ready for this parts long winded name! So, the Crankshaft Position Sensor Reluctor Wheel was found to be the problem! It's said that even just a small dent, ding or scratch will cause it to not do its job. This thing has bent and missing teeth on top of being scratched, dented and scratched! Swapped it out for a new/used one. And the ol' girl fired right up!
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Changed my driver side outer tie-rod end. I think it got destroyed when I hit that F%#*ing pothole last winter, which also ruined my wheel.

I started by busting loose the jamb-nut - which ironically is done by actually driving the nut in the tightening direction! I grabbed the outer end with a pipe-wrench and put an 18mm wrench on the nut, and hammered that sucker loose - after a few applications of heat and penetrating oil...
Then I removed the cotter pin and nut at the spindle. I threaded the nut back on and whaled on it with a hammer, but no dice. So I tried some heat and penetrating oil, and still no dice. Then I said fuggit, and removed the nut, and hammered directly on the ball-stud. Not like I'm going to use it again... It popped loose after a few no-so-hard taps!:rolleyes:🤦 It didn't even mess up the threads - the nut went right back on!
So I removed the end, and threaded on the new one.

Reassembly was the opposite of disassembly - and also in that it took a lot less time...
And don't ask me if I reused to old cotter pin. You already know that I did...:D

And a quick autopsy pic for @DannoXYZ!!!!

So I took it around the block, and it felt good - and especially with the AC blowing in my face. I don't think I disrupted the alignment much if any. And it feels good to be rid of the throttle-on and throttle-off torque steer...
how do you get the castle nut off if the cotter pin looks to be busted broken off ends?
 

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1997 Corolla
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how you get the castle nut off if the cotter pin looks to be busted broken off ends?
Use a pick or small screwdriver to try to work the cotter pin remains out. You can also try to push or tap it out.

When it was new it wasn't really tight in there. It only stayed in because the end is bent after inserting it. So, even if it's rusty it shouldn't be too tight in the hole.

Have you posted a picture?
 

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Use a pick or small screwdriver to try to work the cotter pin remains out. You can also try to push or tap it out.

When it was new it wasn't really tight in there. It only stayed in because the end is bent after inserting it. So, even if it's rusty it shouldn't be too tight in the hole.

Have you posted a picture?
no picture of that yet!, was trying to clean all of the grease and fat off first
my nephew suggested just hacksaw it off but not sure if he meant the castle nut
 

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