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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
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342 Posts
I had a BMW driver take a dual lane roundabout way too hard and cut me off at 50mph. Brakes work.

Dashcam audio is terrible because there is a 2" Hole in the sheet metal in the passenger floor pan located a couple feet behind my front tires, so tire and road noise galore.


I also discovered something new about my camrys dashcam.

 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
I replaced every exterior light with sylvania zevo LEDs except my headlights. Also installed super cool mirror. Cost a bit but it was worth it any all I've done so far is make sure they all work after I finished. So many better things about them compared to the old bulbs. Much brighter, much crisper light - the color light coming from the LED chips are the color of the brakes, tail lights, reverse, side markers, turn signals etc - so even if the lense is that color and clear and you get that color with a oem bulb...

LEDS absolutely blow filament bulbs out of the water by only emitting the desired color light in a uniform color and pattern and brightness and doing it instantly with no power use or heat.


OSRAM ZEVO 1157A - These make my car look even more like a cop at night combined with the bluish white led headlights and electronics and reflective surfaces over the entire inside of the car...Not the goal but It did look damn menacing for the 30 seconds I looked at it before shutting it off. Just these make the car extremely distinguishable without any headlights or DRLs.
OSRAM ZEVO 3157A - Yellowish Orange - It's like big bird color but you can not miss it unless you're distracted. It's a solid color that fills up the entire turn signal reflector brightly and obviously, but without blinding at all. The light starts at the very back and is refracted by the chip design to fill the entire light evenly with the perfect level of brightness.
OSRAM ZEVO 3157R - So Red even before they pass through the lense, So perfectly bright colored red. Unmistakable. Instant. Wow. Makes the rear of the car look really different in an awesome way. It totally fills the light bars with red light so you can actually tell that there is a person ahead of you stopping instead of wondering if that's actually their tail lights.
OSRAM ZEVO 921 = Top mount brake light stock compatible bulb, it comes out just as bright as the brake lights, but with an orange center, and it's also indistinguishable from instantaneous. I also used two of these for the reverse lights and they work good. Nobody's gonna get run over now that I also installed....a 300mm convex broadway mirror.. 1.5 feet from my face.

I can see china from my drivers seat without turning my head.

$200 total for fulling working non blinding "legal enough to not get pulled over, and bright enough to not get t-boned again" leds which will last longer than the car will and look amazing.

I also got parts for a better cold air intake, Current intake is amazing but it can be better.

Got a 7" K&N Cone filter with 3" Adapters, 3" steel tubing for initial intake travel,3x8' rigid duct, 4>3 adapter, and some plans to cut some bumper up, remove the airbox, and route this actual cold air intake directly up to the MAF and see what happens.

Edit: Here's what happens... Linked seperate thread so as to not clutter up this one.

 

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Registered
1997 Camry LE 5S-FE Automatic Kentucky built
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62 Posts
Inner and outer tie rods.
Front and rear stabilizer bar bushings.
Front and rear stab links.
Waiting for 2 more quick struts to do all 4 corners.
Installing a OEM style block heater.

There was a small bit of p/s fluid in the steering boots when I took them off so it might be a new rack soon (stop leak for now).

I have the rear adjustable control arms from mevotech ttx (poly bushings) but I can't get the old ones loose. Going to have to drop the complete assembly for the rear when doing the struts and maybe cut all the bolts out and get new ones from the dealer but they want $20 a piece for them.

Recently did a bunch of body work and gave it a rattle can gloss black paint job that came out great. Next is wet sand, compound and wax/seal.

Windshield, summer tires with rims, hid projector retrofit, and interior lighting mods next!
 

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37 Posts
Not really what I did today but what I did for the past 3 days.

Since the manual swap I have had issue with the clutch pedal and firewall flexing, and master cylinders blowing out, partially because the stiff clutch and the firewall not being setup for a clutch pedal. Even with 3 very thick braces I then had issues with the pedal flexing and the master cylinder moving in the pedal housing. So I braced and stitched welded the pedal assembly and it got better for a while.

Now to the other day, driving to a errand my clutch master blew out (#4 2 exedy I Aisan and 1 duralast) so I got a replacement and swapped it in. Upon bleeding felt the system not responding right and felt like crap but was tired and drove it home to finish bleeding in the morning.

Next day on the way to my shop the master blows out again and the pedal assembly broke off the firewall almost and bent to hell.

At this point I was done with this and fed up with the stock system, so a Wildwood pedal assembly and remote mount reservoir was purchased and fabrication began.

After much cutting and some persuasions I was able to fit the assembly 90% in the false floor section for the pedals.

  1. Still need to finish the brackets build a beauty plate, clean up the hole and a raised section for my foot but I am extremely happy with the outcome the clutch feels amazing the pedal feels amazing and it was well worth the time and effort to make it work. Pedal release is smooth and predictable and very easy to modulate.
Hardline was used to get the kine out of the false floor and keep a soft line away from high risk area, and the custom clutch line just needed a -4 end swapped onto it.
I used a wilwood floor mount pedal with a 5/8" 1.1" stroke cylinder and remote reservoir kit. Could have used the gs compact series but it wasn't available local and the standard kit was.
 

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2 Posts
Hello.
Has anyone got a Toyota diesel engine that has done more than 150k miles? Or does anyone know roughly what sort of mileage can be expected from Toyota's diesel engines?
I have a 6 year old Vauxhall whose diesel engine has reached "end of life" after 76K miles. Absolutely unbelievable. Never again.
I am very keen to buy an Avensis Tourer Diesel but is there anyone out there who can tell me that their Toyota engine is running good past 100K miles?
Cheers
 

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Registered
Toyotas.
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541 Posts
I went to my usual junkyard, and came away with a decent score of bits.
Three hubcaps for Goldie, because every time I loan a car to my daughter (who IS good to the cars), the right rear hubcap goes walkabout...so I've two spares.
Rolled a small clock for my Goldwing out of a nearly new Pacifica, and it works.
But the best score is a Homelink auto-dimming compass mirror with garage door opener, and the whole haul was $44. The mirror lists at $255.
So, the mirror is in the Grey One, and works just as it should.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
Found a treasure trove solara at the junkyard with tons of perfect parts and snagged the OEM Strut brace for $19. My hood doesn't close all the way there is a 1/8th inch fender gap but it's worth it.

Even with all the suspension work already done I can tell a difference, it drove on rails before but now its just a go-kart lol.

My 200 Treadwear 215/45/16s arrived and the techs were incredulous I was putting them on a camry lol.
 

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500,000 + Miles
2000 Solara
Joined
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464 Posts
Last week I replaced the rear anti-sway bar bushings. $18 from local parts store and about 15 minutes of wrench time. Sure did cut down on the rattles back there! Also changed oil, and air filter and gave it a good wash. 2000 Solara with 531,000 miles.
299182
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
Picked up wheels with 215/45/16 Azenis, the white wheels with metallic blue lugs look absolutely stunning.

The azenis are more comfortable than my snow tires at 50 psi (duh), I wasn't expecting them to be this comfortable, the sidewalls are stiffer at 34 psi than the snow tires were at 50 psi and the ride is way more comfortable because it's not a static stiffness added to the suspension.

They're sooo grippy, like I still don't have any idea where the limit is, and going over what my old limit is scary as hell, Haven't locked up the brakes trying to find their stopping limit (It's high), I can still chirp them from launch which is cool, but they have not made a noise even once on corners, and they are brand new tires which means they should get even grippier after a few hundred more miles.

Flooring it around corners at WOT is no problem, I'm more concerned about getting pulled over than my tires losing grip when doing that, they don't even make noise beyond chirping when launching it.

The increased wheel torque from a smaller wheel is slightly noticeable, as is the speedo difference, but I figure just stay at 5 over and 10 over on the highway and I'll be fine from the po-po.

I feel like a dick driving down residential streets at 20mph because they're throwing pebbles everywhere, like so many pebbles. Pea shooters.

Here's a picture of these meaty bastards before I mounted on the car - I detailed my car with them on it but didn't take a picture of it afterwards lol. Ignore my leg, I'm just loving the tire.

299189


Also changed the oil, leveled my ride height because I suck at corner balancing and corner heights were getting annoying,

Found out what the banging noise on my rear right corner was, It was the muffler banging against the heat shield above it because the rubber holder had torn and was letting it swing around. Stuck in some 8.8 M8 x 1.25 x 20mm hex bolts in the rear sway bar brackets and torqued those to my heart's desire. I desired a lot of torque. Sway Bar is solid lol.

Edit: I set the tire pressure to 33/32 Hot and they are performing much better in every manner, and man they are such comfortable tires compared to what I'm used to lmao.

They have more grip than I dare use on the street , and I've seriously tested them to the point of being scared a suspension part was gonna break or something - they just don't give in on grip ever with the little power my car has.
 

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Finally got around to changing my valve covers, spark plugs and PCV valve. Not a difficult job but very time consuming and back breaking - very glad I opted to get platinum plugs because that is not a job I would like to do in the near future. The PCV Valve also blew apart when I pressed it into the grommet. Unlike you Americans who luckily find it to be a couple of bucks, these valves cost about $30 bucks a pop here in Aus.

If I had to do it next time, I'd probably get a more capable swivel head for my ratchet (getting to those rear bank valve cover bolts is a PITA) as well as a 1/4 or 3/8 torque wrench.

Next up is the fuel filter, but judging from the posts in this forum, it seems like they only come out about 50% of the time lol.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
I realised how stupid my ghetto intake was so I removed it and so I bought some couplers and a solara MAF for $20 , cleaned it all up and now its a warm air intake with a 7 inch cone filter going through 3 inches of piping with vacuum couplers directly through a shortened maf which is connected to a 3 inch tube into the throttle. After you account for couplings total length is like 7 inches of 3" smooth tubing from the giant air filter pointing straight to the throttle..I think this is the best throttle response I've had to date, with the new solara strut bar the hood gap and removed grille pieces and airbox provide the engine bay a ton of cold air forced in under the hood and out the sides right over said intake. I probably lose a little to drag but the car is too slow above 100 mph where it matters anyway.

Installed green LEDS in every instrument cluster light socket, the indicators are so bright, but the rest look great and don't mess up my night vision at all. They also match my stereo perfectly and my car is green so I had to.

Figured out that 82 mph redline in 2nd gear on the speedo with my new tires is only 76 mph so now I get to bang that rev limiter when the speed limits 70 without getting in trouble.

Also bought new poly bushings for like $100 and pressed them all in everywhere and filled every motor mount completely with 3M window weld. Like... a lot of window weld... stoplights with a sheet metal interior are.. interesting....

Got some new koyo thrust needle bearings washers for the coilovers to eliminate the memory steer I was having and got an alignment with a lot of toe out in the front, the old ones were crappy chinese washers I got for cheap and they rusted quickly causing the original koyo thrust needle bearing to bind up and not spin properly, putting torsion on the pillow ball mounts, causing a bit of memory steer.

With a track width that is now 1.5" wider than before and totally screwing with my suspension I got an alignment. -3* camber, 3.5* caster, -.25" toe out.

With significantly stiffer, grippier, and smaller tires, a much better intake system, and brand new polyurethane or similar hardness bushings pressed in literally all the things that had a real bushing in them it drives better than it ever has, and honestly is way more capable than I am as a driver, but I totally need more power.

The car doesn't skip a beat when mashing the throttle no matter. No wheel hop, no bucking, no torque steer or squatting or anything notable in any way. The car simply accelerates, but now it feels sooo slow when accelerating now that it doesn't move any direction except forwards and I need more power now that the suspension brakes and tires can actually handle it.

Here's a real life brake test from tonight....



I also warmed up my tires..

 

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short-throw dipstick
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6,165 Posts
Swapped out my tired original struts a bit earlier than planned (I'm at 198.5K) for new KYB Strut-Plus. Stiffer (bouncier over rough roads) and handles a lot better; because the nosedive isn't excessive anymore my stuff isn't sliding off the seats. I do notice some humming being transmitted above 30 MPH now.
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
Cleaned the entire floor pan with acetone and a chisel and wire brushes then brought it to a car wash and rinsed it out with low pressure spot free rinse mode with the filtered warmed water lmao. Those drain holes in the floor pan come in handy, Did the front passenger area by hand because I have no glove box or really anything at all protecting the ecu and friends.

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Used this DIY to fix my seat back, I don't actually know that I did what the DIY says since there were no pictures and some information wasn't relevant to my vehicle - but I used vise grips to grasp the shafts that go to the seat, then screwed them down into actuator linkage so tight they wouldn't wiggle.

Then I torqued them down really tight with some 1/16th inch washers riding on the bolt shank sandwiched in between.

Oh my god, the relief. I can actually hold proper posture now without the seat back moving back and forth like 2 inches and shoulder to shoulder. Also this seems to have significantly stiffened up the butt part of the seat, idk thats the case or I'm just imagining it, but the seat is really firm and dare I say comfortable (compared to before).
 

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Hi there ,i changed the timing belt and water pump and hoses etc on my 2002 SXV20 Camry. Has done 150,000 km and is 18 yrs old . Had the originals still on it and they still looked and worked ok. Just proves you can't go past Toyota quality.
 

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New member, first post: I removed the new LEDs from my low fuel and battery lights and put the incandescents back in :/

Also, thank you everyone for all of the help I've gotten just browsing here the past month. Replaced my knock sensors, passed emissions, tons of other little things!
 

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Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
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342 Posts
Wrapped my exhaust (I did NOT expect it to take that long) and coated them with DEI High Temp header coating. No more shiny and no more brain cells after the can was empty. They look mean.
 

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I used some boat stuff to repair/restore the headights on my car. I removed most of the haze, I'm guessing they're permanently greenish since I did the same thing on my 2000 Honda Accord and those came out perfect.
View attachment 293971 View attachment 293972


On another note, I decided to check the engine light thinking it was just gonna be my downstream O2 sensor (previous owner CUT the harness that goes into the car to hook it up) but ended up
getting 4 codes (P0401, P0440, P0441, and P0446)

Anyone have any suggestions? Those are largely evap codes. I replaced the gas cap with a 2012 or 13 nissan altima cap and it works great. But my guess is EGR and the overfill valve.
I have those same codes and I’ve been told it’s only the carbon canisters. Doesn’t affect performance but is needed to pass emissions, at least in my state.
 

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Ended up needing to replace my battery and alternator stranded in parking lot. Luckily it’s easy to get to and only to bolts. I also got a tune up and found oil in one of the spark plugs. Otherwise still running strong at 280k miles.
 
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