Toyota Nation Forum banner

5581 - 5600 of 5610 Posts

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Ended up needing to replace my battery and alternator stranded in parking lot. Luckily it’s easy to get to and only to bolts. I also got a tune up and found oil in one of the spark plugs. Otherwise still running strong at 280k miles.
Any tips replacing the alternator? Mines been weak for a year and I should replace it already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Any tips replacing the alternator? Mines been weak for a year and I should replace it already.
For the 2.2l I4 the alternator is only held on by two bolts and a wiring harness above. One of the bolts is a tensioner for the belt. It’s an easy fix and my friends and I put it in in 10 minutes. Definitely a easy project to do.
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,165 Posts
Blower motor finally took a crap at 199.8K and 21 years. Luckily had a spare in my donor car ("donorcam") so swapped it out, back to breezy.
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,165 Posts
Changed oil but not filter, as I'm using an oversized filter and want to see how it holds up after 20K.

Also changed swaybar endlinks and rotated tires; turns out I need an alignment.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Changed oil but not filter, as I'm using an oversized filter and want to see how it holds up after 20K.

Also changed swaybar endlinks and rotated tires; turns out I need an alignment.
Were you going to send a sample of the oil to get analyzed by blackstone or someone after 20k on the filter, or just cut it open and see if its bypassing the filter or something?
 

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,165 Posts
Both. This 8K sample is going to Blackstone right now.

Were you going to send a sample of the oil to get analyzed by blackstone or someone after 20k on the filter, or just cut it open and see if its bypassing the filter or something?
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Bled the brakes because the fluid was nasssty, did a few power steering fluid exchanges, patched my exhaust leaks and tightened the headers, and rotated my tires.

Then test drove it.. for 200 miles.. Headers don't drone which is good, I can hear lifter tick at low speeds which seems pretty normal for an engine of this mileage with 1.6mm stainless steel headers. Good lord this car pulls after 4000 rpm, it's just so dang quick, even at 80mph passing is a breeze.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts

·
short-throw dipstick
Joined
·
6,165 Posts
Got new tires. Replaced because they were worn and one got damaged, then accelerated that because traffic has been moving so fast through the lockdowns. See:




...the General AltiMAX recommended here is a great tire, quietest I've owned with comparable or better handling to what I've been running: Kumho Solus TA11. We'll see if they last and if they're really worth the $200 price premium.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Installed 2nd Gen ES300 rear blank rotors and caliper brackets, along with new centric coated blanks for the front. Bedded them quite thoroughly with my used es300 yellowstuff pads and hawk hps on the rear. Smelled amazing.

Assembled my accusump and fittings and bought taps and fasteners for mounting the accumulator and es300 rear seat brace.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Installed the accusump and ES300 Y brace.

I definitely should have gotten an accusump a long time ago. Starting the car with the engine already filled with warm pressurized oil is an amazing change from the loud noisy starts I would have with a dry valvetrain and bearings. I am definetly going to get an electronic switch for this eventually, manual valve is gonna get old fast. Pretty clear difference in valve train noise even on a rainy test drive.

As far as the rear seat brace, I have no idea how much of a difference it makes as far as chassis flex goes, but it weighs 2 pounds including fasteners, and its over the rear tires, so whatever. Was a PITA installing nuts on the backside with the spots I tapped holes.

301488
301489
301490
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Autocrossed the camry, was a hoot, I learned that I'm a horrible driver :D While my $50 each ebay coilovers are amazing budget for the street and do hold up great on smooth pavement, the shocks can't handle the rough tarmac very well while being pushed. Also realised I'm gonna need to slap some bigger rubber on this thing when these tires die.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Even with the rear sway bar it still understeered? Although I notice that you also installed the whiteline front sway bar so that might make handling basically vanilla but with bigger sway bars lol. I've seen other people mention that upgrading the front and rear sway bars won't have as much effect on steering as just the RSB alone, when I upgraded mine the car now sticks to the road like glue, it's great.

Upgraded the 3rd gen windshield washer nozzles after seeing that thread on the camry mods sticky, found a great pair of 5th gen nozzles at a wreckers along with a long enough vacuum hose from a corolla or something for the ACIS mod (vacuum hoses seem to be extremely rare), but broke one of the plastic T-intersections in the process of upgrading the washer nozzles...back to the wreckers again, none of the XV10 camrys in the yard had intact T-junctions so I nabbed one off an XV20 which was more of a Y-pipe rather than a T-junction...I guess that might be better for flow but I think I'll just use this as a temporary thing, on a quasi-purist spree at the moment when it comes to parts. When I went to pay for the Y-pipe the guy just saw it and just said 'have a good day' before opening the gate lol.

With the ACIS mod, I cleaned the outside of the wreckers hose since it was covered in years of dirt and other shit that got on it, then I hooked it up to the ACIS, over the upper intake and into the throttle body barb that's normally connected to the P pipe on the EGR valve. The loose end of the existing short rubber tube connecting the ACIS to vacuum switching valve, I just put it on a bolt on the water outlet. lol. Went for a drive on a pretty rough road and it still stayed on. Engine feels slightly more responsive.

I might install a cabin air filter although to be honest I've not been too bothered about it...but I think I'll install it just because I can lul. Also need to figure out how to stop the annoying fade out of the dome light, I just want it to turn off instantly.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Even with the rear sway bar it still understeered? Although I notice that you also installed the whiteline front sway bar so that might make handling basically vanilla but with bigger sway bars lol. I've seen other people mention that upgrading the front and rear sway bars won't have as much effect on steering as just the RSB alone, when I upgraded mine the car now sticks to the road like glue, it's great.

Upgraded the 3rd gen windshield washer nozzles after seeing that thread on the camry mods sticky, found a great pair of 5th gen nozzles at a wreckers along with a long enough vacuum hose from a corolla or something for the ACIS mod (vacuum hoses seem to be extremely rare), but broke one of the plastic T-intersections in the process of upgrading the washer nozzles...back to the wreckers again, none of the XV10 camrys in the yard had intact T-junctions so I nabbed one off an XV20 which was more of a Y-pipe rather than a T-junction...I guess that might be better for flow but I think I'll just use this as a temporary thing, on a quasi-purist spree at the moment when it comes to parts. When I went to pay for the Y-pipe the guy just saw it and just said 'have a good day' before opening the gate lol.

With the ACIS mod, I cleaned the outside of the wreckers hose since it was covered in years of dirt and other shit that got on it, then I hooked it up to the ACIS, over the upper intake and into the throttle body barb that's normally connected to the P pipe on the EGR valve. The loose end of the existing short rubber tube connecting the ACIS to vacuum switching valve, I just put it on a bolt on the water outlet. lol. Went for a drive on a pretty rough road and it still stayed on. Engine feels slightly more responsive.

I might install a cabin air filter although to be honest I've not been too bothered about it...but I think I'll install it just because I can lul. Also need to figure out how to stop the annoying fade out of the dome light, I just want it to turn off instantly.
This car needs all the stiffness it can get. I still oversteer to an extreme extent with the 24mm front sway bar. I oversteered about the same amount with just the rear and stock front, it just body rolled more and lacked grip once it hit a certain point in the roll angle; with two bars I can whack the throttle while going sideways and pull out of corners like some of the spots in that vid if you have sound on - with only the rear bar you're gonna plow/scrub on the front grounded tire way before you reach grip limits of said tire.

With the big sway bars on both ends and a stiffer suspension all you have to do to make the car rotate is run a higher front tire pressure than the rear to let the rear tires slip more. Right now running 32/30 cold which turns into 38/31 hot. This also lets the chassis roll to prevent the issue some people with actual fwd sports cars run into where they make the front too stiff and lose more grip than they gain cornering ability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
ooooh ok...well looks like another 300 bucks out of my wallet for an FSB now lol

edit: noticed in your sig that you've got a solara strut bar which reminds me: if anyone wants a strut bar that'll fit a gen 3 V6, there's a malay company called ultra racing, they have a strut bar for the 2.2 engine but it has enough clearance for a V6. The one I got was UR-TW2-365.

Years ago on TN there was a thread where another aussie camry owner got the ultra racing bar and it fit his V6 which was where I found out about it.

It's also pretty neat that a lot of things for the 4th gen camry still (mostly) fit the 3rd gen one. Whiteline's BTR39 and BTF38 sway bars will both fit on the gen 3.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
ooooh ok...well looks like another 300 bucks out of my wallet for an FSB now lol

edit: noticed in your sig that you've got a solara strut bar which reminds me: if anyone wants a strut bar that'll fit a gen 3 V6, there's a malay company called ultra racing, they have a strut bar for the 2.2 engine but it has enough clearance for a V6. The one I got was UR-TW2-365.

Years ago on TN there was a thread where another aussie camry owner got the ultra racing bar and it fit his V6 which was where I found out about it.

It's also pretty neat that a lot of things for the 4th gen camry still (mostly) fit the 3rd gen one. Whiteline's BTR39 and BTF38 sway bars will both fit on the gen 3.
The front bar should run under or about 200, it's worth the money even just for street cruising. It's made the biggest difference in handling of any mod I've done barring coilovers, and you can't toss the car without it - you will just plow and wheel hop and destroy your CV axles.

The ability to toss the car was not even in the question without it, it would just plow and break stuff. Being able to throw it wherever I want and just slide instead of plowing turned it into a different car handling wise, grip wise, and sense of control. The rear bar was fun, but it didn't let me drive any faster, just oversteer more.

Based on everything I've read on sway bars before buying them, there is absolutely a perpetuated cliche that in a fwd car "big front bars are bad for grip and just make it feel better". I'd encourage you to do your own research on the subject before making any purchases, but I certainly don't regret it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
front bar kit (includes the links) turns out to be au 426 bucks...might see if they can offer a discount since I've bought from them before.
 

·
Camreee
'99 Auto V6
Joined
·
342 Posts
Pulled a complete rear subframe and suspension minus calipers (mine look better) and springs. Took under 2 hours to get it out of a 95 es300. Paid 115 after tax for the whole thing, which seems more than fair considering every bushing is basically perfect condition with no wiggle except ones that are easy to swap to polyurethane. Hubs and bearings are perfect which is nice cause mine are not. Can't believe the price I got on this thing.

I also finally gathered everything to do my valve covers, intake tract gaskets, and relocate knock sensors; Along with another 4 camber bolts to go to -4.5 degrees on the front tires and -2.5 on the rear, new moog beefy inner and outer tie rods, and stoptech stainless steel lines for all the calipers. God I love firestone lifetime alignments.

301926
 
5581 - 5600 of 5610 Posts
Top