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Spray-paint (or plastidip) or vinyl wrap?
I went with plasti-dip. Still looks just as good and has been holding up well. It wasn’t very time consuming either; only thing that took the most time was covering other areas to prevent overspray
 

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Got the tires rotated and balanced. Cleaned the brake dust off the wheels and calipers. Steam cleaned the insides of the windows to remove that thin nasty film from stuff de-gassing or what ever causes that mess on the inside of the windows. They are clear as crystal.
 

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Got the tires rotated and balanced. Cleaned the brake dust off the wheels and calipers. Steam cleaned the insides of the windows to remove that thin nasty film from stuff de-gassing or what ever causes that mess on the inside of the windows. They are clear as crystal.
Did you do your windshield too? I’ve had problems with my windshield being greasy and hard to see at night, but I super cleaned the windows using ChrisFix technique and it worked pretty well too.
 

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Did you do your windshield too? I’ve had problems with my windshield being greasy and hard to see at night, but I super cleaned the windows using ChrisFix technique and it worked pretty well too.
Yes, the primary reason to use the steamer is the windshield. The idea behind the steamer is that the heat and moisture from the steamer instantly breaks up the surface tension of the grease or film on the window making it easy to wipe of and not smear. And it works 100% of the time without any chemical cleaners. Basically distilled water boiled into steam. A small steamer like the ones to steam shirts should work also.

There are only 2 words of caution.... Don't use the steam to melt ice on your window/windshield ...... the intense heat against the intense cold will crack the glass. The coldest outdoor temperature I have used it is around 50 degree's.

Second is if you have after market window tint... it will loosen the glue. How I handle that is I take a microfiber cloth and lay it on the steam head, heat up the cloth and then remove the cloth and use the heated cloth to wipe the inside of the window where the tint has been applied.

On the exterior side of the windows with tint, I have had no issues. I just don't hold the steam head in one place on the window very long. I keep it moving.

I can explain it this way.... once you do it and see how crystal clear the windshield is, you will never get it that clean, even with high quality glass cleaners. In the rare occasion I use a glass cleaner, I usually stick to Spray Away foaming glass cleaner. It uses jeweler's alcohol which is suppose to be better or it works different with what ever additives it has. I also like Perfect Glass by Stoner.

But I have had smears even with those glass cleaners that the steamer clears up.
 

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Removed the old fog lights. You can see one was really bad, but both had moisture inside them so the second was was going to fail anyway. Easy installation on the new ones. Less than 1 hour total.
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Like the title says...
Just putting this up for those of you that didn't really do anything that significant to start a new thread for..... so just add it to the list here. ANYTHING u did to your Camry today post it up 👍👍👍. Pls keep this on topic, anything other than that will modify/move/delete without notice. Thx




ill begin...I keep checking on my new ES300 fogs retrofit,look great and NO i wont post pics until i get HID for it. Man need to save up for HID. :headbang::headbang::headbang: Also looking up some more decals for my car :D
Might I suggest looking into LED's.
:sneaky:
 

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Installed Morimoto HID’s. Can anyone guide me to a thread that can help me fix the passenger side beam? I have also attached a picture with my old bulbs and they produced the same “pattern”; that was when I installed LED. Do I need to adjust the headlight?
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1990 FJ62 Landcruiser, 2005 Camry, 2016 Prius, 2018 Highlander, 1971 FJ40 Landcruiser (sold)
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First post.. previously just lurker.

What did I do today? I bought one... pretty nice. 2005 white Toyota Camry, 110,000 miles, nice condition.
I got it for my son, who's taking his CA DMV test in a few weeks. Problem is, that he's become rather accustomed to the rear view backup camera.. which this car does not have.
Also, no USB ports. So.. I'm planning on replacing the OEM radio with a double-din Apple CarPlay headunit and wire in a back-up camera. Also, install some flush mount USB ports and aux port (for the Pioneer 1400NEX headunit I got). Anyone know if this OEM radio is a JBL radio? Or if there's a factory amp hidden somewhere? There's 3 plugs going into the back, but my wiring harness only connects to 2 of them. Not sure what the 3rd set of wires goes to?

So this is also what else did I do today...
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I washed it in a automatic car wash (Don't tell anyone) and then I picked up a Sio2 Spray detailer to see if it made a difference.....It looks like there is a coating of glass over the paint. This spay detailer is only rated for 3 months, so I will need to re apply it at some point, but with all the weird stuff needing to be shaken out of professional Si02 coatings..... I am more than happy with what I got for what I spent and re-applying it in 3 months is no big deal.
 

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Japan-built 3MZ-FE
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Not so much what I did, but what someone else did to my Gen-5 Camry today... was commuting on I-85 when traffic suddenly went from 80 to 0. The Camry stopped like a champ (thanks, new tires and springs), but I got a good, solid love tap from the Accord behind me. Pulled over, stepped out--not so much as a scratch. I'm starting to enjoy beater Camry ownership :cool:
 

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On a more positive note, installed the Megan Racing front strut brace and TRD rear anti-roll bar (on street setting) today:

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After lowering this car on Eibach Pro-Kits and KYB GR-2s and upgrading the tires, I expected the stiffer rear sway bar to take ride comfort down a notch. Ironically, the biggest change I've noticed from today's mods are how much more solid and smooth-riding the chassis feels. The Megan Racing strut bar definitely adds rigidity. My interior trim rattles are almost gone now, and the steering feels marginally sharper, with similarly light effort but more solid road feel. (I kept and stored the stock strut brace, which is a heavy but surprisingly weak rolled-steel design that connects to only two of the three front suspension tower bolts.) Since I added the strut brace and rear bar at the same time, it's tough to judge their value independently, but I've definitely noticed reduced understeer in tight turns, which can only come from the sway bar. The only potential downside of the bar is that the car is now more 'reactive' to steering inputs, so freeway tracking is a touch more sensitive than it used to be.. All in all, I'd recommend any and every one of these mods to owners with a similar use case, i.e., those whose aren't signing their Camrys up for track days (lol) but want an appreciably tighter, sharper commuter. At this point, the open diff and total lack of lateral support in the seats are probably bigger deterrents to cornering than anything else.
 

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In last 6 months I have done a ton to my white 2003 Camry xle. I put on power-stop rotors and ceramic pads all around(slotted and drilled rotors). I also put 4 used 17 inch used wheels I refinished painted metallic dark metal and installed 4 225 45 17 lexani tires I ordered online. I am going too admit this do not shoot me the 6 spoke wheels came of a 03 altima LOL. But the cneter caps now have toyota logos so no one will know LOL. I will post pics soon just I am new user and need to search how to upload pics from my IPhone. I also touched up front leather seats that were dirty and cracking, was cheap easy and came out good. Will be glad to share that but it is on you tube videos where you clean seat and spray colot=r matching paint on a rag and use lacquer thinner on that to rub in paint , once it dries it hides the cracks as they are color matched, looks 100% better. Oh love my camry 286k and mostly 100% original except for basic stuff. And every light switch and item works 100%, got a steal on it also 2 yrs ago and has been a dream to own and tinker with.
 

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On a more positive note, installed the Megan Racing front strut brace and TRD rear anti-roll bar (on street setting) today:

View attachment 292648

View attachment 292649

After lowering this car on Eibach Pro-Kits and KYB GR-2s and upgrading the tires, I expected the stiffer rear sway bar to take ride comfort down a notch. Ironically, the biggest change I've noticed from today's mods are how much more solid and smooth-riding the chassis feels. The Megan Racing strut bar definitely adds rigidity. My interior trim rattles are almost gone now, and the steering feels marginally sharper, with light effort but more solid road feel. (I kept and stored the stock strut brace, which is a heavy but surprisingly weak rolled-steel design that connects to only two of the three front suspension tower bolts.) Since I added the strut brace and rear bar at the same time, it's tough to judge their value independently, but I've definitely noticed reduced understeer in tight turns, which can only come from the sway bar. The only potential downside of the sway bar is that the car is now more 'reactive' to steering inputs, so freeway tracking is a touch more sensitive than it used to be. At this point, the front seats' total lack of lateral support will be more of a deterrent to fast cornering than anything else.

On interior rattles I was chasing one sounded like door panels and dash, and by chance while I was on bumpy road and it was rattling I had to adjust inside mirror, soon as I touched it noise stopped, it is old and has a little movement before the mirror actually moves setting. I figured out how to adjust mirror while keeping it kind of pushed aginstthe post tight, no more noise, every now and then it pops up and a small nudge on rear view fixes it, the way it echoed in car it sounded like it was from other panels, go figure. Not sure if this is your noise but try it. They get a little worn after many yrs.
 

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The Mrs. red 2006 Solara Convertible got a new top and new headliner recently! Now THAT was a job, but wow, saved a LOT of dough. Top shops wanted $2000+. $650 in parts. Shoot, I would have charged $3000 for that job.. Interesting that you can't buy a new rain rail for it, I ended up relining it. A nice buff and wax and she looks show room new. What don't we do for these women?
 

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First post.. previously just lurker.

What did I do today? I bought one... pretty nice. 2005 white Toyota Camry, 110,000 miles, nice condition.
I got it for my son, who's taking his CA DMV test in a few weeks. Problem is, that he's become rather accustomed to the rear view backup camera.. which this car does not have.
Also, no USB ports. So.. I'm planning on replacing the OEM radio with a double-din Apple CarPlay headunit and wire in a back-up camera. Also, install some flush mount USB ports and aux port (for the Pioneer 1400NEX headunit I got). Anyone know if this OEM radio is a JBL radio? Or if there's a factory amp hidden somewhere? There's 3 plugs going into the back, but my wiring harness only connects to 2 of them. Not sure what the 3rd set of wires goes to?

So this is also what else did I do today...
View attachment 291472

View attachment 291473
No if was JBL with amps it would say JBL on faceplate of radio.
 

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The third was probably for the aftermarket satellite radio tuner or such. There's aftermarket products out there for audio in, but not sure about for a stock, not JBL, 2005. I have the same car and was thinking about some kind of audio in without changing out the stock head unit. Thank you for not buying the kid a brand new car.
 

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On a more positive note, installed the Megan Racing front strut brace and TRD rear anti-roll bar (on street setting) today:

View attachment 292648

View attachment 292649

After lowering this car on Eibach Pro-Kits and KYB GR-2s and upgrading the tires, I expected the stiffer rear sway bar to take ride comfort down a notch. Ironically, the biggest change I've noticed from today's mods are how much more solid and smooth-riding the chassis feels. The Megan Racing strut bar definitely adds rigidity. My interior trim rattles are almost gone now, and the steering feels marginally sharper, with similarly light effort but more solid road feel. (I kept and stored the stock strut brace, which is a heavy but surprisingly weak rolled-steel design that connects to only two of the three front suspension tower bolts.) Since I added the strut brace and rear bar at the same time, it's tough to judge their value independently, but I've definitely noticed reduced understeer in tight turns, which can only come from the sway bar. The only potential downside of the bar is that the car is now more 'reactive' to steering inputs, so freeway tracking is a touch more sensitive than it used to be (if you hold the wheel absolutely still, it will track dead-straight for minutes on end, but it changes direction with just the tiniest input off-center). All in all, I'd recommend any and every one of these mods to owners with a similar use case, i.e., those whose aren't signing their Camrys up for track days (lol) but want an appreciably tighter, sharper commuter. At this point, this SE's open diff and total lack of front-seat lateral support are probably bigger deterrents to quick cornering than anything else.

Hey looking at your pics the headlights look awesome, Aftermarket? if so where did you get them and do you like the light they beam out? I have cleaned and cleared my stock but they lenses are still not perfect and those you have look perfect. Thanks for any help.
 
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