Today I replaced the radiator on my 2005. At 204K, the upper radiator tank busted spewing all my fairly new coolant all over the engine bay. Luckily my wife realized the issue and stopped driving it after informing me.
Today I replaced the following:
Radiator with a Denso aftermarket
Radiator Cap with OEM Toyota/NipponDenso
Upper Radiator Hose with Gates Replacement Hose
Lower Radiator Hose with OEM Toyota Hose
Coolant with Pentofrost A1 Concentrate.
I will try to snap a pic of the old radiator tomorrow.
Did a much needed exterior car wash. Also ordered the valve cover gasket set (Victor Reinz from Rockauto), glove box light (74 bulb from SuperbrightLEDS), and 5 "Cool White" Homelink button lights (NEO4-CHP from SuperbrightLEDS). I still need to replace all 4 struts/shocks and retint the windows here soon.
2005 Sequoia Limited 4wd. Changed my oil. Used mobile 1 15k synthetic and fram's 15k filter for synthetics.fram air filter. Extensively cleaned the interior. Just bought it a week ago. The whole family loves it.
Replaced my valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and grommets, and resealed the half moons. All the rubber stuff was rock hard and broke into pieces during removal. Used a made in Japan Victor Reinz gasket kit I'm 90% sure is the same as the Toyota kit as even the grommets were the same color as OEM.
This also gave me an opportunity to get a look at the engine under the valve covers. I was very impressed with the cleanliness of the 200K mile engine. Additionally there is a clear indication that swapping to synthetic oil is cleaning the engine. I could clearly see the areas that were cleaned and getting cleaned from old varnish/deposits.
no more needs to be said... so the left rear disc pads ate the rotor. This week, I have learned where the backing nut is, and the rotor is off. Reassembling one parking brake retaining spring that I popped off, and I should have it back running again.
Once I go get my mower, I'll then do the other three wheels. Using Bosch Quiet Cast rotors, lifetime guarantee from o-reilly's and they are noticeably thicker and heavier than what is on the vehicle now.:smile:
Replaced the ignition lock cylinder with an OEM part from Amazon. Now, I'm waiting for those with the know-how to inform me how to program the new key transponders which came with the new lock cylinder. :smile:
Well I had the souble doozy hatch issue on my 01. Hatch won't open and window wouldn't roll down. Bought it used this way, had the hatch handle replaced once and it lasted for 3 months. Had popped off the high trim pieces on the interior of the hatch but stalled trying to figure out how to get the big panel off. Today I tackled it and some bent nose pliers did the trick for popping the bottom off first then worig around the edges, finally lightly getting the the weatherstripping and bit from beside to window. I had been watching lots of videos and reading forums about the window and hatch issue and as soon as I removed the metal panel, took off that stupid ebrake mechanism, and liquid wrenched the parts inside the window mechanism, the window went right down. Now...the door. Pulled on the cable-nothing. Got my head lamp out and hosed the interior of the actuator(?) by pulling the cable out enough to get the straw inside, let it sit for a few minutes, lubed it again, hit it with a wrench a couple times (you never know), then pulled the cable again and the door popped open. The actuator doohickey definitely is getting replaced with an aftermarket upgrade since it won't latch now, and I'll put in a aftermarket metal before replacing it with the same crappy plastic dealership parts. Bungees will hold her closed until then. So stoked I didn't need to go redneck style, and saved a bunch of dough doing it myself.
Pics to come after its done storming. Also bought some new headlight bulbs. One of my Philips Extreme Vision bulbs just went out (lasted almost exactly one year). I'm replacing them with Osrame Night Breaker bulbs. If I get a year out of the extra brightness bulbs, I'm good.
Recent work on my 05 Limited 4x4:
- used black caulk from Hd/Lowe's to fix water dripping on passenger floor. Caulked the rubber piece that runs the width of the sequoia on the cabin side of the hood, anything coming out of the firewall, all the screws/bolts holding down the piece under the wipers, and anything else that could possibly allow water through.
- new rear brake pads and one rotor. Right rear caliper wasn't sliding properly and one pad wore down very quickly. Got the wheel off and the rotor was too thin to use. Used rotor in good condition was $20. ------ Both rear wheels were stuck to the rotors!! One came off with a swift kick; the other one i had to do doughnuts in bothe directions with loose lug nuts to get it off! My first experience with this phenomenon. Then, the rotor was stuck to the hub. I used the sequoia jack and pushed against the frame to get it off. The rotor broke into many pieces. To avoid these sticking problems in the future, everything was bathed in anti seize. A spring in the parking brake fell out and another moved to where it was rubbing on the wheel studs. Got all that sorted out. Had to buy a $24 hardware kit for one tiny piece that fell off the parking brake ( from all the drama of removinv the stuck rotor).
- rear window brake fix. Also used synthetic caliper grease to lube around the rear window rubber (wher the edge of the windo touches when it's rolled up). The caliper grease was a translucent blue; thought it would make the least amount of a mess. Read on a forum that someone thought the window jammed and needed lubrication. Just want it to keep working.
- replaced the rubber pieces in the 3rd row cup holders.
- attached the strap to the tailgating using one of the bolts from the window brake.
- replaced 2 fasteners on rubber piece at the bottom of the front passenger door.
- washed it.
- cleaned inside, conditioned the leather.
- put on 4 locking lug nuts that were missing
- let air out of the tires. They were up around 40 psi. Tpms light is still on. Tried checking air in spare, but valve was stuck. Couldn't check psi or let air out. Also reset toms system.
- reset maintenance required light
- drove in 4 wheel drive for a few miles
- greased all grease fittings i could find, to address "lashing?" problem. Reduced it to barely noticeable. Used mobil 1 synthetic.
I worked on my 01 Sequoia as I am having my fuel in my gas tank boiling. I replaced the canister with a brand new one from the dealer and it appears my problem still comes and goes, but I am not getting any error codes. Has anyone run into this problem as I have no idea what else todo.
I just wrapped up converting my 2010 Sequoia Platinum's second row captains chairs out and installing a 40/20/40 bench from a donor 2008 Sequoia SR5.
1. The floor pan is the same for the SR5 and the Platinum I was able to use the stock bolt locations without issue.
2. Have fun with the console...
Got an 04 Sequoia and Randomly the TRAC OFF, VSC OFF, and Brake light will come on and it sounds like the abs is engaging as I push down on the brake peddle. Usually it’s just the Brake light that comes on randomly then goes away, but now all 3 and the abs engaging is happening. What could...
I would like to lift my 04 Sequoia 2WD. I would like to stay within $500-$700. I need new shocks all the way around and will be putting new upper and lower ball joints so I figured why not lift it while I’m at it. Any suggestions on lift combos to achieve 2.5 inches up front and 2 inches in the...
2004 Sequoia - took transfer case actuator off and cleaned off grease covering the contacts. Also turned vehicle on with actuator plugged in but not bolted back down to see if the motor spun. The 4 green 4wd lights and center orange light blinked continuously. Now this does this non stop...