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What did you do to your Sequoia today?

85K views 267 replies 114 participants last post by  Pit Viper 
#1 ·
I always liked these threads.

Post what you did to yours today!
 
#109 ·
Had this ride for 4 1/2 years. 270k miles. No major issues. Recently had my spider gears in rear end welded. I was able to purchase a complete parts vehicle. Its a 02 sequoia. Welds broke on the first attempt. Went to the other rear end and did same thing, minus this time it went to the welding shop so i had access to a better hotter welder. Worked great. Used wrong gasket maker and it leaked though. Was in a rush and took off one day not thinking, well rear end ran out of fluid. Pinion and many other things gernaded through the housing.

Throughout that venture I had to take rear drive shaft out and run in 4wh, only making me front wheel drive though. I had also bought a new set of mastercraft mud and snow terrain tires. 285 70 r17. No lift or spacers, yes it rubbed a little. So with going to only front wheel drive my front diff ended up going. Idk more stress on it with combo of no rear end and bigger meater tires?.

Rear end ended up being able to be pieced together between the 1st and 2nd. The the 2nd attempt of welding spider gears held up. Before tearing into front differential i wanted to test drive. It worked great no issues.

Swapped front diff from the 02 sequoia and put in main ride. Had problem getting my CV shafts fitting completely in front diff. Like 1/8 inch gap from diff to the flange on cv shafts on both sides.

Took for test drive. Went in and out of 4 wheel great. Stopped at a buddies and when i left a hr later it making noises on ride home. It will not come out of 4 wheel drive currently by itself.

Anyone have any recommendations to get this ol girl back on the road/trails? Sorry for the long post, any and all help is greatly appreciated
 
#112 ·
Your 4WD actuator may be stuck. This is common.

As for the diffs making noise in general it could be anything from generally worn parts to impacts from your welding (pinion bearing damage, etc.) or disassembly (wheel seal damage washing out the bearing or general bearing damage).
 
#111 ·
Just bought an 03 seqouia excellent superb interior/exterior w/ 108,000km for $7000.

It feels good driving something similar to my old Xterra :)

And it came with 4 brand new Michelin winters with rims :)

Currently have 17 Elantra sport as a daily drive, Sequoia as a back up, I'm a happy camper :)
 
#113 ·
New to the Toyota family here! Just picked up a '17 Sequoia Platinum with 43k miles. Very clean and runs great. Any words of wisdom, things to look out for or heads-up?

Been in the lease game for years (RAM Pick-ups) but have wanted a Sequoia the whole time and finally excited to own a vehicle that will last me years!

306690
 
#114 · (Edited)
Replaced my LR taillight and headliner. Scored both for $100 and around 1 hr of my time for removal.

The taillight was very stress cracked and looked terrible.

The headliner was swapped as I had a stupid aftermarket DVD player which didn't work AND it eliminated the center map/dome light which was super annoying at night. Headliners are specific to year range (01-04 and 05-07).

The person who installed the DVD player cut the dome light connector harness super close instead of using T Taps. I soldered in the connector from the donor vehicle.

Swapped everything over and added an LED to the main dome light (need to buy 194 LEDs for the center map lights). I'm very happy with the results. Replacing it seems daunting but everything is very easy.

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#115 ·
Bought an '06 SR5 4x4 a few days ago. Starts/runs like new, but it needs a few maintenance items. So far I have polished headlights, cleaned MAF, had the timing belt/water pump changed, new air filter, cleaned throttle body, flushed/filled power steering, and new radiator cap. Over Labor Day weekend it will get new brake fluid reservoir, new plugs, new rear rotors/pads, brake fluid flush, new gear oil in diffs and transfer case, new fuel cap. The following week, it will get a new radiator, probably a new wheel bearing, and I will diagnose the cause(s) of the VSC, Track Off, and brake lights being on.
 
#119 ·
Installed new OEM headlights in my '05 tonight. What a difference. I had polished the original ones back in June, but that lasted all of about 3 weeks, and they went back to faded yellow. Decided to shell out $400 for the OEMs.

This past weekend, I replaced all burnt-out bulbs in the interior. Temp dial, Homelink buttons, rear fan button, ignition ring, glovebox, differential, and lower foot courtesy lights were all burnt out. Decided to stick with OEM bulbs instead of LED.

Next step is to get new brakes and tires before snow comes. I think it needs new rotors, too. Probably will get that done next week.
 
#120 ·
Mine is under the knife for a roof rack leak. Got a ton of water in the passenger side rear shortly after replacing my headliner. Determined the leak was the roof rack so I resealed. After my reseal, it still leaked. Took everything apart and confirmed no issues with the sunroof drain. Had another look at the gasket and found a hole in the nub that seals the roof panel. Looks like heat melted it open over the years.

With just 2 days of rain, my 5 gallon bucket is nearly 1/4 full. Lucky I put the bucket in the perfect spot where all the water was captured.

Ordered 4 new gaskets which will arrive in around a week.

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#121 ·
Got the new gaskets installed. They are much nicer than the 16 year old originals. So far so good and no leaks.
 
#123 ·
So a few days after installing new gaskets, I still got a leak. Angry, I took everything apart and pressed on.

I tried to remove and reseal the rack which didn't change anything. Then I considered i had a rust issue or hole under the drip rail. Used a hose to isolate the drip rail and sure enough it leaked.

I removed the drip rail and found the leak. Basically I had the panel bond/seam sealer wear away where the rear roof panel meets the upper portion of the rear door jamb. This caused a metal separation/gap and the water leak in the rear. There was also a tiny bit of surface looking rust.

It looks like it needs to be cleaned up, maybe a little welding, seam sealer, and paint.

I used some RTV as a temporary fix which you can see in the pics. That's where the issue is. As of right now, it doesn't leak. And it's in a place you can't really see it unless you are looking for it.

I'm probably going to try and have a body shop reseal it.

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#212 ·
So a few days after installing new gaskets, I still got a leak. Angry, I took everything apart and pressed on.

I tried to remove and reseal the rack which didn't change anything. Then I considered i had a rust issue or hole under the drip rail. Used a hose to isolate the drip rail and sure enough it leaked.

I removed the drip rail and found the leak. Basically I had the panel bond/seam sealer wear away where the rear roof panel meets the upper portion of the rear door jamb. This caused a metal separation/gap and the water leak in the rear. There was also a tiny bit of surface looking rust.

It looks like it needs to be cleaned up, maybe a little welding, seam sealer, and paint.

I used some RTV as a temporary fix which you can see in the pics. That's where the issue is. As of right now, it doesn't leak. And it's in a place you can't really see it unless you are looking for it.

I'm probably going to try and have a body shop reseal it
I Havent been on this forum long and am not sure how to send a DM here, so if there is a DM function hardtopte72 hit me up there please

quoting this because I have a frustrating leak coming through my cargo hatch area, driver side, through the plastic trim panels inside the truck (adjacent to, but not on, the hatch).

I’ve survived with the bucket back there for a while but this is my wifes daily driver and i refuse to go on much longer with her driving around with our 2 kids and a leak.

i removed the roof rack and went heavy with silicone sealant around the gaskets and bolts, still the leak persists. I tested the sunroof and the drains there flow fine.

i believe I’ve isolated the leak to somewhere in the drain channel on the roof, under the roof racks, driver side, but can’t isolate the exact spot or hole

hoping hardtopte72 can offer exactly how their leak was isolated, and if gunking those channels up with a heavy bead of silicone is a decent fix? This is an 02 with 265k for what it’s worth, we want to keep her for a long time but a perfect/pretty/expensive fix isn’t really a priority. As long as the water stays out and doesn’t mold up the vehicle I’m happy.

thanks for the help

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leak is dripping down directly above the joint of the trim panel still attached and the one that has been removed, left of the hole where my aftermarket backup camera wire is running through (Yes I tried to patch with clear silicone which there is residue, didn’t work). I tested all penetrations above this area with water and couldn’t reproduce leak. The only way to reproduce leak is flowing water aft of the middle roof rack support in the drain channel.
 
#137 ·
Bought it.

2015 Platinum. Definitely going to stay a pavement princess/grocery getter since it's the wife's truck and family vehicle with baby #2 on the way. I'm particularly excited because as nice as it is (and man is it ever nice), it means that my Tacoma is now the smaller of the two, and I have more freedom to do to it whatever I please without having to worry about it staying the main vehicle for moving the whole family around.

 
#139 ·
For the last 3 or so years, I've had an oil leak from the top of the engine. I was initially sure the valve covers were solely responsible, but after replacing them I began to think it was the cam seals. Since cam seal replacement is such a major job (requires camshaft removal), I put it off.

Well a few weeks ago I began to have another look when I saw the leak was still covering the valve covers near the front of the engine. Upon closer inspection the leak became obvious. It was my VVT-I solenoid o-rings. I knew this to be a common leak, especially on 3URFE/3URFBE, and completely overlooked it.

Did some online shopping and got the o-rings at one of my local dealers (toyotapartsoverstock.com / Lakeland Toyota). Got them in the mail today and installed them. The job is very easy, albeit I broke both the locking tabs on the DBW throttle connector and both solenoids.

Upon removing both solenoids, I found both o-rings were rock hard and had turned into plastic. I had to break both off the solenoids using a pick. Cleaned the bore and sealing surface before lubing the o-ring and reinstalling. I will clean the engine in a few days, however I'm confident that was the leak all along and my cam seals are not leaking.

Here are the photos.

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#141 ·
Today I went out and tackled another nagging issue. A slightly rough idle and high fuel trims. I pulled the MAF sensor which looked clean on 1st glance. Upon really close inspection, I found a very small amount of dirt on the hot wire. Cleaned it up and trims are back to less than 5%!!!! Huge win. Also cleaned the oil from the prior leak and now she looks perfect. Really happy with the last few days.
 

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#142 ·
Got the VVT-I connectors replaced. Wasn't too hard but the passenger side connector literally disintegrated.

Also removed the hydrocarbon filter because it was saturated and likely not doing its job anymore.

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