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What do I do with this? (56k maybe)

2843 Views 36 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  prjkt_c4mry
Well, I've had my intake for a little while and when I put it in, there was an extra tube from the air box that is just sitting there. I wanted to know if I'm supposed to have it on or not or whatever. Here's the pic:

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I had the same thing left over from my isntallation.

I drilled a hole the perfect size of the hose in the intake and stuck the hose in there

no problems so far. no CEL or anything. I've had it on since about September.
The next day I installed my intake, my check engine light came on, but I unhooked and rehooked my battery and it went away, after a few days it came back on. I hope this tube has nothing to do with that. And I don't want to drill into my intake cause I might just mess it up
The tube doesnt affect the engine light i dont think. A lot of people have had the engine light come on after an intake install. When your ecu gets used to the increase air volume it will eventually go away. Your car is going to run rich for a while just so you know
I've had the intake in for maybe 2 months now and the CEL is still on. Should I reset my ecu again?
get the code pulled so you can figure out whats causing it ;)
I have no idea how to do that
you need an obdII reader

your local automotive store can usually pull the codes for you for free in the US
^ yep, just go to murrays, auto zone, etc and theyll let you take it outside/show you how to use it. then once you have the code you can look it up online and it will tell you what the problem is. Otherwise its just going to keep coming back and you wont know what it is without getting the code.
Shouldn't get a CEL because of an intake unless you hooked it up wrong. And I'de be glad to help ya, but the Gen3 V6 doesn't have that hose.
Thanks for the tips. I'll go to the Kragens tomorrow to get it checked out. I'll post up the results when I get them.
the cel IS because of that hose that isnt connected.
thats the ebay intake i presume. the one i had on my car not long ago.

what happens is the sensor doesnt sense enough air flow into that one tube area. you do need to integrate it back into the intake somehow. My CEL light would turn on if i drove it a long distance or if i sat at a stoplight and turned my A/C on. Yes it would reset after disconnecting the battery but the computer doesnt like it. Did you notice a studder the second the cel turned on? There was a long discussion before with people like you and me using the ebay intake and getting a CEL.

Bottom line, get the hose into the intake somehow (the ebay intake somehow forgot there was a third nipple needed).
if not go back to the stock box. The stock box was always more power and more fuel efficient. The sound of the SRI was nice, it made me think i was faster, but in reality i was not. Now that i have put in a K&N filter in my stock box, its a slightest bit louder and more responsive/powerful/fuel efficient.

Anyways have fun. I may put my sri back on one day if i can get a 3rd nipple onto it.
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yep, your car basically runs in cripple mode so that you are still able to drive the car.

If adding a cheap aftermarket intake forces my car to run rich and dirty, i would reconsider the mod all together. Trading up fuel economy and running dirty doesnt justify having some more noise in the engine compartment. hehe
O dam, I didn't know about hat. When I go to Kragens later, I'll just get a splitter for the hose in front of the intake. Hopefully that solves my problem.
can you put in a "T" connection onto the blue tube that runs to the valve cover? would that help?
someone else put a T in their tube...i couldnt find one...maybe i should have looked harder, but that did help them.
Well, I finally got the vaccuum t put in. Took me a loooong time just to find it. Went to the Kragens down the street and I didn't know exactly what the thing was called, so I told him I needed a splitter for my intake, but he said that they were out of stock and sent me to a shop called VH performance or something like that up in Hayward. Came back, realized that tube on the intake is barely bigger than the nozzle, went back to Kragens to get a sealant and the guy was like, 'this is what you wanted? I thought you wanted an intake. We got half an aisle full of stuff like that.' and i felt hella stupid. I drove 20 miles to and from Hayward just to find out it was right in my face the whole time. Anyways, got the sealant, tried to seal up the tube, after a while, I realized I could just use the hose left over from the air box and just zip tied them shut. Sooo, basically in about the span of 30 minutes, I felt hella stupid x2. Here's the end result:

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Well, I just remembered to check if the CEL is still on and it still is. So after class tomorrow, I'm gonna run over to Kragens again and get it checked out.
looks good.
did you reset your cel dude? if it still comes on, then go check it.

btw they charge you 99 dollars to use their unit. its just a deposit that you'll get back. they used to check it for you but they no longer do, so you have to do it yourself. at least thats what i was told last time i wanted to pull a code for my intake. but it was the intake that caused the cel.
94CoupeV6 said:
Shouldn't get a CEL because of an intake unless you hooked it up wrong. And I'd be glad to help ya, but the Gen3 V6 doesn't have that hose.

If the ECU detects a change in airflow it can set a CEL whether or not the intake is installed properly or not, any intake can set a CEL just because of this.

acitydweller said:
yep, your car basically runs in cripple mode so that you are still able to drive the car.

If adding a cheap aftermarket intake forces my car to run rich and dirty, i would reconsider the mod all together. Trading up fuel economy and running dirty doesnt justify having some more noise in the engine compartment. hehe
The CEL is most likely something related to the airflow sensor reading a (small) change in airflow, this wont set the car in limp mode, the car will just run a little rich. Limp mode occurs when one or more necessary sensors reads way off i.e. coolant temperature sensor, crank position sensor, airflow meter either completely broken, dirty, or unplugged, TP sensor broken/not reading correctly.

Limp mode is basically running the engine off maps that it knows will allow the engine to run, most of the time this means it runs rich regardless of what the o2s tell the computer, and usually retards ignition timing a lot to prevent detonation.

Limp mode will not be caused by an airflow meter code related to an air intake, its just reading values a little off what its used to so it thinks something may be wrong with the air meter. Its the same as when o2 sensors go bad, they just read out of range and the ECU thinks somethings wrong.
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