Where did dyou guys run the power wire for you system??

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Why don't you just punch a hole in one of the rubber plugs in the firewall then? Surely you don't want to run it underneath.

Through a rubber grommet already in the firewall. It's tight but you can do it.

And if you do search you can find answers to most system work here on the forums. When I did mine, I referenced through the search feature at times.....and helpfully

I popped the rubber grommet off and after running the wire through, I popped it back in. Simple.

thanks for the quick response guys. im looking to run kicker hyperflex 0 gauge so i hope the hole is big enough. lol

untitlejk said:

I popped the rubber grommet off and after running the wire through, I popped it back in. Simple.

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Did you run the wire through it or next to it? The rubber protects the wire from rubbing the metal so that the insulation doesn't wear away and cause a short.

touringcamry said:

Did you run the wire through it or next to it? The rubber protects the wire from rubbing the metal so that the insulation doesn't wear away and cause a short.

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ditto. you might have a hard time with 0 gauge. i would at least recommend 2 or 3 gauge.

who know's...you might want to run another power line through the same hole in the future. 0 gauge would be tough to squeeze through and leave you no room at all for future mods.

If you pop the grommet out, and carefully exacto or razor blade a slight cut to get the lead through (like a coat hanger) you may be able to do it, I ran thicker wires in a snake for my fogs through one - then a little tug on the wire stalk should pull the grommet back into place.
It was easier than I thought - trust the stalk - you can pull it to get the grommet to pop out and back in

Use a wire, usually 10 gauge, and tap into the fuse block. This piece is called a fuse tap and any auto parts store has them. The fuse tap gets shoved into some secondary power fuse on the fuse block and pick it whether you want power on all the time or not. The owners manual has this information, if yours is absent just dl it. I have done this in the past and always spliced in a fuse of the appropriate amperage in the wire for a safety.
I dont like crawling around under the dash and to me this is the easiest and best way.

Tremendous_Slouch said:

Use a wire, usually 10 gauge, and tap into the fuse block. This piece is called a fuse tap and any auto parts store has them. The fuse tap gets shoved into some secondary power fuse on the fuse block and pick it whether you want power on all the time or not. The owners manual has this information, if yours is absent just dl it. I have done this in the past and always spliced in a fuse of the appropriate amperage in the wire for a safety.
I dont like crawling around under the dash and to me this is the easiest and best way.

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+1

Tremendous_Slouch said:

Use a wire, usually 10 gauge, and tap into the fuse block. This piece is called a fuse tap and any auto parts store has them. The fuse tap gets shoved into some secondary power fuse on the fuse block and pick it whether you want power on all the time or not. The owners manual has this information, if yours is absent just dl it. I have done this in the past and always spliced in a fuse of the appropriate amperage in the wire for a safety.
I dont like crawling around under the dash and to me this is the easiest and best way.

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I like the idea and I agree that it's a lot easier than climbing into the engine bay and going thru the firewall. But this guy is planning on running a 0 gauge wire. Sounds like he's planning something big. Would power from the fuse box be enough to drive a 10,000 watt "monster" system? (hypothetically)

BTW, BlackCam09, what are you planning for your system?

money042 said:

I like the idea and I agree that it's a lot easier than climbing into the engine bay and going thru the firewall. But this guy is planning on running a 0 gauge wire. Sounds like he's planning something big. Would power from the fuse box be enough to drive a 10,000 watt "monster" system? (hypothetically)

BTW, BlackCam09, what are you planning for your system?

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haha thanks for the reply guys. yeah that is a great idea but im running 0 gauge wire, i found the grommet you guys are talking about it, fitted the 0 gauge wire easily through there.

I'm going to be running a Sundown Audio Saz1500D amp and probably a Incriminator Audio 15" Death Penalty or a 15" Audiopulse Revo. I'll also be upgrading my alternator to a H/O 200 amp alt so i won't have any electrical problems later down the road if i decide to upgrade again. thanks again for the replies.

Heading into more power I back out on advice, not THAT knowledgable yet

njerald said:

Search.......................

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jeez nothing has changed, been a few days since i been here, clicked a thread, first thing i see is this comment..................... fail......

camryi4 said:

jeez nothing has changed, been a few days since i been here, clicked a thread, first thing i see is this comment..................... fail......

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lol that guy thinks the world revolves around him, and he thinks he knows it all. the njerald or whatever.

I've run 0 gauge through my gen5 as well..only thing was, I drilled a hole through the firewall and got a grommet to fit the whole so there's no harsh rubbing.. One thing I'll mention when you're working with 0 gauge, pull apart your driver seat and the rear seat it to run the wire, it makes life SO much easier..run the wire under the carpet but at an appropriate location so you dont feel or see the bump from the wire.. yours should be very easy to bend and move because kicker is pretty flexible...

don't forget to do the big 3 either that will help you greatly till u get a H/O alt. I'm still using an factory alt
I've got an Rockford Fosgate T2001 mono on two 12 Image Dynamics IDMAXs, and a alpine mrp-345 4 channel.

just my .02

I just ran it through the grommet and ran it under the door sill thing and it looks like fine like there's no wire under it at all. yeah in my old camry i was running the same setup im going to put in the new camry. I had a 160 H/O alt i bought off ebay and it worked great. I saw a h/o alt on ebay for the gen5. Yeah i also did the big 3 in my old car but in this car im installing anything until the h/o alt is installed first. I'm getting it custom built from excessive amperage for about 375 shipped he quoted me.

BlackCam09 said:

I just ran it through the grommet and ran it under the door sill thing and it looks like fine like there's no wire under it at all. yeah in my old camry i was running the same setup im going to put in the new camry. I had a 160 H/O alt i bought off ebay and it worked great. I saw a h/o alt on ebay for the gen5. Yeah i also did the big 3 in my old car but in this car im installing anything until the h/o alt is installed first. I'm getting it custom built from excessive amperage for about 375 shipped he quoted me.

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E-A shit is good, nice price on that h/o alt. I need one for my gen5, but I'm just scared for some reason that it'll mess up something in my car.. :Bruce:

I have an 07 V6 and needed to run power from the battery to the rear and had to break down and take it to a stereo installation shop. It's not in my nature to pay someone for something I can normally do myself. I could find NO traditional rubber plugs and he couldn't either. He searched all over and under the car and eventually nicked a hole to the side of the steering shaft seal and used that point to plumb the zip cord. He snaked it up, around and through some of the other engine wiring and hydraulics before it led to the battery where it was fused on both poles. If these cars have other grommets in the firewall that are useful for pulling wires, I'd love to know where they are, exactly, if for no other reason than to just know.