[SilverSoarer]

Who makes the best aftermarket stabilizer bar endlinks: Beck Arnley, Moog, or TRW ?

Beck Arnley $20, 90 day warranty
Moog $40 warranty is "lifetime" but says 12 mos. on steering dampeners on website
TRW $50 warranty is "lifetime"

Toyota $55 online, local dealer want $150

 

[camrtm3]

Go with Moog. I am replacing my ball joints, sway bar bushings, and endlinks with Moog. Never heard of anything wrong with Moog. They did have a stock error once with a part I got didn't match, but the distributor I purchased it from got it corrected for me. Plus The grease fittings are a nice feature on Moog Parts. Helps the part last a little longer if you maintain the grease in the joints.

Hope this helps.

 

[Perkins]

Go with Moog. I am replacing my ball joints, sway bar bushings, and endlinks with Moog. Never heard of anything wrong with Moog. They did have a stock error once with a part I got didn't match, but the distributor I purchased it from got it corrected for me. Plus The grease fittings are a nice feature on Moog Parts. Helps the part last a little longer if you maintain the grease in the joints.

Hope this helps.

its all on personal preference. I prefer moog for the same reason listed above. The grease fitting makes it nice so it lasts longer. I usually swap out the vertical grease fittings with 90's though so I can grease them without removing an axle (lower ball joint)

 

[LynchburgCSI]

I've heard good things about Moog end links from many members. That's what would spend my money on. Plus the fact that you don't need to go through the hex key nightmare taking them off like you with the OEM ones. :lol:

 

[Nervous]

I use Beck & Arnley, but only for 2K miles, so too early to say anything. But overall I am very pleased with Beck & Arnley parts - very high quality of new and rebuilt ones.

 

[SexieWASD]

Chassis parts = moog, it really is as simple as that.

 

[JohnGD]

I thought Moog bought the TRW division? No?

Moogs are pretty heavy duty if made in the US. Some of the import joints (Korea) relabeled Moog were recalled. But I don't think the sway bar links have grease zerks.

Gen 3, front, $29.79 rockauto:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=227491
Gen 4, front, $57.79:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=418860

Who makes the best aftermarket stabilizer bar endlinks: Beck Arnley, Moog, or TRW ?

Beck Arnley $20, 90 day warranty
Moog $40 warranty is "lifetime" but says 12 mos. on steering dampeners on website
TRW $50 warranty is "lifetime"

Toyota $55 online, local dealer want $150

 

[Ace2424]

Moog is top. Not only are they lifetime (it's lifetime at any Advance Autoparts, just bring it in when it breaks and they'll hand you a new one free of charge, no questions) but they are problem solvers too. This means that Moog figures out what has caused the part to go bad in the first place and sells a part that is a solution.

TRW is Advance Autoparts store brand and is ok. It does have lifetime, but it's not the same quality as the Moog.

Beck and Arnley is a OE replacement and often you don't know where the parts they sell are coming from (like autolite) and can sometimes go bad faster then you'd expect.

 

[SexieWASD]

In my experience TRW is a good brand, in most cases it is as good as OEM, moog however, is in every case I've seen superior to OEM quality.

I went to a seminar on chassis parts, and problem diagnosis that was sponsored by moog. The rep told a kind of funny story about being good friends with the person who designed the control arms on the humvee (military not mall cruiser), they got into an argument when his friend said that he would never see one break, with the guy from moog arguing that it wasn't because of proper design, but rather that the part used the same amount of metal as a Volkswagon. Years later he was off roading with friends and saw one drop from a plane as part of air force training, the parachute didn't deploy so he decided to investigate, and ended up talking with the air force guys, and they let him keep one of the control arms to rub it in his friends face. If your waiting for this story to go anywhere, it's not going to, I just thought it was funny, and kind of shows the mentality at moog, of seeking out problems.

 

[SilverSoarer]

Interesting, a former professor, Gen. Paul Kern is now CEO of AM General. I'll have to chat to him about that.

I went with Beck Arnley, knowing full well that Federal Mogul owns both Moog and TRW - the Beck Arnley part looks nearly as well engineered - but Moog is perhaps the best.

In my experience TRW is a good brand, in most cases it is as good as OEM, moog however, is in every case I've seen superior to OEM quality.

I went to a seminar on chassis parts, and problem diagnosis that was sponsored by moog. The rep told a kind of funny story about being good friends with the person who designed the control arms on the humvee (military not mall cruiser), they got into an argument when his friend said that he would never see one break, with the guy from moog arguing that it wasn't because of proper design, but rather that the part used the same amount of metal as a Volkswagon. Years later he was off roading with friends and saw one drop from a plane as part of air force training, the parachute didn't deploy so he decided to investigate, and ended up talking with the air force guys, and they let him keep one of the control arms to rub it in his friends face. If your waiting for this story to go anywhere, it's not going to, I just thought it was funny, and kind of shows the mentality at moog, of seeking out problems.

 

[Hajoca]

I got the Moog rear endlinks. Japan made, the Moog dust boot was a bit disappointing compared to the Deeza front endlinks I bought.

The Moog dust boot is a rubber cup, and the lip sits on the ball joint's outer rim. Deeza has a retainer built into the ball joint rim and the rubber is clamped down with a coil spring to form a seal.

I add grease to the Moogs at every oil change.

 

[SexieWASD]

They make them that way so that you can over grease them to flush out the old dirty grease without rupturing the boot. You do have to grease them every oil change, but they last longer so long as you do.

 

[GA-Guy]

I have moog front end-links on my camry. They are a lot more solid feeling (in my hand) than the OEMs that I pulled off. I replaced the swaybar bushings (also moog) at the same time.

That was about a year ago. I have not had any problems even though I haven't added grease. What kind should I use? Also, I remember the grease-caps being a pain to get threaded right. Any advice on this?

 

[SexieWASD]

Just use a tiny socket and ratchet (I use a snapon socket, because it stops the grease fitting from going into the socket, so you can put pressure on it when you screw it in), most (if not all) of moog's grease fittings are self tapping, meaning that on the part there are no threads, but the grease fitting itself taps the part as you put it on, It lets you choose the angle to have the fitting at for the 90deg and 45deg fittings, without leaving it loose.

 

[JohnGD]

Yes, the "grease zerks" are self tapping. The joints come "empty", so you need to load them up with grease on initial install. You then check the grease at every oil change, which can be a hassle but these joints are heavy duty. But some like the non-greasable ones for obvious reasons. Good enough.

Valvoline's DuraBlend is a cost effective grease at Autozone, but does some some oil separation:
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/grease-gear-oil/grease/67

Their Valvoline's fully synthetic grease is harder to find. This grease is also suitable for CV joints, which makes it superior to Mobil-1, which you can't use in CV joints (always read the label for approved applications).
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/grease-gear-oil/grease/63

I prefer the Redline CV-2 grease. Very little oil separation and a high drop point. The price is not bad at all for the performance. But for most people it's not necessary.
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17

I have moog front end-links on my camry. They are a lot more solid feeling (in my hand) than the OEMs that I pulled off. I replaced the swaybar bushings (also moog) at the same time.

That was about a year ago. I have not had any problems even though I haven't added grease. What kind should I use? Also, I remember the grease-caps being a pain to get threaded right. Any advice on this?

 

[JohnGD]

Sounds like those are the "rebox" endlinks Moog bought from Japan. Moog also had some Korean ball joints that they recalled. IMO only the US made ones are truly Moog and carry the heavy duty quality.

I got the Moog rear endlinks. Japan made, the Moog dust boot was a bit disappointing compared to the Deeza front endlinks I bought.

The Moog dust boot is a rubber cup, and the lip sits on the ball joint's outer rim. Deeza has a retainer built into the ball joint rim and the rubber is clamped down with a coil spring to form a seal.

I add grease to the Moogs at every oil change.

 

[GA-Guy]

Thanks for the info John.

My endlinks did not come empty. They had some gray goo inside them so I thought I was Okay for a while. I guess I'll be greasin' them soon though.

I also plan on swapping my ball joints and control arm bushing with moog parts too. Just need to save some money...