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Why you should Check OIL

20K views 82 replies 10 participants last post by  N/A Camry Sleeper 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I thought you might enjoy this. On my one camry (95), I replaced the motor in it when I bought it. Well, I kept the old motor so that I could possibly repair it some day.. So this weekend I started to tear into it and this is what I found. It looks like the whole motor is salvageable. The head is in awesome shape and the cylinders look like they are in good shape too. Taking all this stuff to the machine shop monday to have it Mic'd, checked for cracks, and to see if its possible to machine the crank down to use oversize bearings. I'm pretty sure that I can get the cylinders honed out... there are some mild scratch marks on them but I think that if i hone the cylinders 2 thousandths I will be okay there. Onto the pictures!!!

Keep in mind, this is why you should always check your fluids!!














 
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#3 ·
:cool:. Thanks for the info though, I will keep that in mind when i bring the motor down to the machine shop. I was checking around online and found a couple websites that have rebuild kits, but I am not too sure on the quality of these parts. More than likely they are not within spec of OEM though. I know when I did the main / rod bearings on the 92 camry I got Federal Mogul Bearings. I think that they might have pistons / rings as well.

I just thought that it was crazy how melted that 4th rod bearing was. Since I have the motor torn down, do you guys think that I should get better rods for the motor? I know that the 5sfe connecting rods aren't the strongest...
 
#4 ·
I also ordered a rebuild kit, when it came it turned out to be the topline kit, something I wasn't expecting considering who I had order it for me, and the price I paid for it. I didn't like the quality of the gaskets in it, but I sent it back mostly based on the price I paid. I don't doubt that the kit would have lasted 100k or so, but not the 200+k you would expect from a Toyota, not a 5sfe anyways. I would do, well exactly what I am doing and buy gaskets you trust, for me thats fel-pro. Bearings I have a different view on, given that they are not really a wear item if the oil system is taken care of, so I'm just going to use the bearings that come with my re-manned crank.
 
#5 ·
Well Bearings are actually a huge part of your vehicle.. they are a wear part. Federal Mogul is a recommended bearing to use for most motors. If your bearings have to much gap between the caps and crank it will not be able to produce enough oil pressure to properly lubricate your motor. Since you are getting matched bearings to that crank you should be in good shape. 1 thousandths gap between the bearing and crank is like a new motor, which is what your crank should be :). I still have to get the entire motor cleaned and checked over before i even think of purchasing any parts. I would be pretty bummed out if I found out that the block was junk and i had rebuild parts in my garage.. lol. How much did you end up paying for your crankshaft / Bearings ?
 
#6 ·
yes, of coarse the gap is critical, thats not really what I meant by that statement, I mean of the varying construction methods and metal choices available as long as the bearing is made to spec I don't see much point in spending extra on them. I would rather spend the extra money on a machine shop with a good reputation.

I ended up getting my crank from rockauto, it was $210 with a $45 core charge so $255 -> $298.36 after shipping. I could have probably had my local machine shop turn and polish it cheaper since it came out of a decently well running motor, but I want another so that I will have one to rebuild the other block sitting in my garage.
 
#11 ·
Update:

I brought my spare 5sfe to the machine shop, He looked at it (still has to pressure check block / head) and said that it looks like the
block and head are in good shape. Crank I think will be a different story, and I know for sure I will need a new Rod for Cylinder 4. He said I might even be able to re-use the pistons! So thats a plus. Had him check into a rebuild kit for it too and it looks like the basic kit is $300.00 and the master kit with everything including oil pump is around $500.00 :)
 
#12 ·
Looking forward to seeing where you will be getting your parts from especially because I am in the process of rebuilding a 5s...just waiting to hit the loto...:facepalm:
 
#13 ·
hehe i'll let you know what I end up purchasing. He is pretty busy so I am not sure when he will get to checking everything (sometime this week i would suspect). I am getting a Master rebuild kit for sure, but I am not sure which one I will be purchasing.

Update:
I just purchased a second spare 5sfe too that has a dead cylinder for $100.00 :)

**** spare parts :D ****
 
#14 ·
I am very interested in seeing how your build comes out. My engine is almost near the end of it's life (at 330k you know you're living on borrowed time). Just want to get the insight of what are the 5SFE's weaknesses are and strengthen those parts once I need to overhaul.

Out of curiosity I took a oil sample while I did my oil change over the weekend. I sent it out today to Blackstone Labs to see how bad my engine is destroying itself. I get excessive blue smoke at start up so I know I need new Valve Seals. I'd hate to spend 400 bucks on seals only for the engine to blow on me the next year :facepalm:.
 
#15 ·
I am very interested in seeing how your build comes out. My engine is almost near the end of it's life (at 330k you know you're living on borrowed time). Just want to get the insight of what are the 5SFE's weaknesses are and strengthen those parts once I need to overhaul.

Out of curiosity I took a oil sample while I did my oil change over the weekend. I sent it out today to Blackstone Labs to see how bad my engine is destroying itself. I get excessive blue smoke at start up so I know I need new Valve Seals. I'd hate to spend 400 bucks on seals only for the engine to blow on me the next year :facepalm:.
I know for sure the rod bolts are a problem with the 5sfe in higher RPM's. but most people dont drive in higher RPMS all the time unless your 16 and got a car for free. hehe

The other weak point I've heard is the Balancer Shafts in the bottom of the engine.

You should post your results of the oil .. i am interested in seeing how that turns out.

Update:

Just got this via UPS today to replace my old wore out one :naughty:





Still no word from the machine shop....
 
#16 ·
Yea you should get your machinist to plug the oil hole and ditch the balance shaft. Takes about 12-15 lbs (correct me if im wrong) off the engine. My rebuilt 5sfe with 10k miles seems more rev happy and loves visiting 6k often without the balance shafts. You also get more oil pressure for the bearings and etc.
 
#17 ·
I see what your saying, it sounds like a good idea.. Isn't the balance shaft there for a reason though? I'm just curious why you removed the balance shafts. Was it just to have less weight in the motor ? did you also remove the gear that is attached to the crank or did you just leave it attached "free floating" ?
 
#18 ·
I love getting new toys, especially really sophisticated toys like a dial indicator. I've been trying to purchase one for the longest! How much if you don't mind me asking? :lol:

By the way I will post a new thread as soon as I get my oil results e-mailed to me from Blackstone. I should get it by friday at the earliest. Consider myself banned if I don't do so :banhim:
 
#20 · (Edited)
#19 ·
Took a bunch of pictures of the motor i picked up for $150.00

My conclusion is that it had a bad head gasket, and stuck rings on cylinder #1. Connecting rods, Crank, Crank Bearings are all in Excellent shape. Visually I cannot see anything at all wrong with this motor.

For some further information, I picked this motor up from a salvage yard that they didn't know anything at all about the motor. They purchased it from a dealership that would take the vehicle and flip it over every once in a while to look like a car crash to draw attention to the dealership. I went to the salvage yard and asked about it .. they didn't know anything about it. I asked if I could use a jump pack and a compression tool and went down. Poured some motor oil down the cylinders because the spark plugs were removed and sitting in the cylinder. I figured it wouldn't crank at all because the spark plugs were removed. Well I was wrong. It did crank over. Hooked the compression tool up and got in order from 1 - 4 ( 50psi, 125psi, 100psi, 150psi ). I figured since it cranked over really easily it would be worth getting. If anything, I just got a bunch of spare parts! Anyways, tore it down and I think the reason it got canned anyways was because the top compression rings were stuck only producing 50psi. The head gasket was also bad. Anyways, for all you folks who want to see some pictures.... .


Enjoy :thumbsup:


















 
#22 ·
haha thanks :thumbsup:

I just know everyone enjoys tons of pictures and it only takes 30-40 seconds to take a bunch so what the heck.

I am almost positive its not a CALI motor. It didn't have any extra vacuum lines on the back, that's a dead give away when they have that on the back :) I am not 100% sure its not CALI but I am pretty sure. I could always pull the fuel rail and compare the injectors :)
 
#23 ·
#26 ·
I have a question for all you guys....

Is there any way to remove the balance shafts and machine the crank so that it is better balance and will not create engine vibration?

I've been thinking of doing this for a while, but the only thing that is holding me back is the fact that if I remove the balance shafts I don't want to risk having the motor be un-balanced and risk pre-mature wear on anything.. Any insight ?
 
#27 ·
It doesn't vibrate that much. You only notice it at idle. But it's still not much at all. If you've got good mounts, you probably won't even notice it.
 
#28 ·
hmm alright, well I think i might try to plug the oil ports on the 5sfe I just picked up yesterday.

the one I am getting machined right now I am going to just build stock. The new 5sfe I am thinking of possibly building this one if I can find the parts I want for a decent price :thumbsup:

As far as I could see there is actually only 1 oil port on the block for the balancer shafts. Am I correct on this? There are 6 bolts that hold it to the block, and 1 hole that I am suspecting is for oil
 
#31 · (Edited)
checked the crank for runout just a minute ago on the new 5sfe i picked up and it seems that I am within factory Service limits of 0.0024"

I got in order from Harmonic Balancer Side

0.0020
0.0010
0.0010
0.0010
0.0020

I wonder why the outside journals have more runout than the center ones? Still need to use the micrometer and check each journal and crank pin for thicknesses but I'll keep you guys posted :)

Addition:

This was for the main bearings only
 
#32 · (Edited)
I've been looking into ARP Rod bolts for the 5sfe, but I've done a little researching and apparently from the MR2 guys who were in communication with the ARP people, they do not make ARP connecting rod bots stock or custom as of now. When I look on Summit Racing and other websites though, they are available when I enter my vehicle information. I am assuming these are just generic (they should work) listings..

Has anyone actually installed ARP rod bolts on stock rods?

Nevermind .. answered my own question.

Part # 203-4204

They are for 3sgte, but they should work in a 5sfe as well
 
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