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Car Breaker
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the longest time my lights light came on, well I fixed that because my backup lights were out so no more of that. I replaced all the bulbs and put bulb grease on all of the contacts for moisture. Now at random when I turn on the car my Charge light, Brake light, and Lights light all come on and stay on, and if I turn the car off and then back on it goes away. Sometimes it stays on, sometimes it will like flicker real fast and then go away. I noticed today that if I push down the power window button when the window is already all the way down already it flickers just for a sec if I hit the button. The PW control panel thing is all fucked up anyway, I can push down the passenger front window, but not back up. So if anyone has one of those for sale I'll buy it (don't care on color).

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks
 

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Grenaded piston
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6,614 Posts
It sounds like your alternator is on its way out.

I've had the same problem (all the lights on the dash come on and stay on).

I took apart the alternator and noticed that the copper rings the brushes ride against where worn out.
 

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Car Breaker
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689 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is interesting that you say that because the one that is on there now is brand new, not even probably 4 months old yet. The old one crapped out, and I bought a new one so I hope that you are wrong about it. I've checked all my electrical contacts and they are good. You never know though I guess, it could be going out again. Which leads me then to ask (if it does go out) what is causing something to fry my alternators?

I would like to add that a lot of my ground spots are rusted, and the ground wire contacts are rusted onto the plates. Most of the ones notibly near the battery, the others though are good coming from the motor. The positive battery piece (with the 3 fuses) is bent and has some rust and lime build up, and is like cracked out of its case like someone got mad at it. The terminals themselves are new though, and I re-stripped the ground wires for the negative terminal and they are nice and tight.
 

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Grenaded piston
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6,614 Posts
My problem was the alternator. With 160,000+ miles on the original alternator, I figured it was on its way out.

You can remove yours and have it tested at a autoparts store.

But, before you do that I would clean up those rusty connections. ;)
 

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Registered
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10 Posts
I'm having this problem recently (mostly on rainy days) and at 131,000 miles and the original alternator, I guess it'd be time for that.

But is there anything else I should consider before I have it looked at next month (inspection)?
 

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Camry
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1,463 Posts
Sounds like you have broken wires or switches. or a Short to ground.

Time to be a detective and go repair. Start with what you do know, that is the doors, because they break wires first. Also switches get water in there. May be a faulty connection.

Reground everything properly. Can't troubleshoot without a decent ground. You can run a wire from your batt to use as a ground when testing components. Be careful you don't short that. I use a pencil with those plastic pen covers. When I am not using my temp connects, I put each wire in a seperate pen cap and use the pencil to secure it. When I am done, I remove the wires immediately. Feel free to modify the method, I just hate shorting out and popping a fuse in the middle of a hunt.

Also your battery, what condition is that in? I think it is a major suspect. Clean your connections even if you replace your battery. It amazes me when I see pals bolt on brand new batts with ratty, frosted clamps.

One short can take your whole system down, ruin your day and burn things up. Fix it before it does more damage.
 

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Registered
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342 Posts
I had the same problem with my car. People used to call it blinky. The lights would flicker and the doors would unlock and lock. To fix the problem I had to remove the alarm. Now everything is fine.
John
 
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