[Darchrow Enigma]

my passenger side window has trouble closing.... it tends to lean forward at the last 80% of closing....

i took the door trim off and checked the window, but it doesn't seem to be off the track, and actually i can't seem to see any visible problems.

i only took off the plastic trim. i couldn't see past the frame (part of door chassis) to see clearly....

how can i get to the window's parts?

 

[LynchburgCSI]

Didn't you ALREADY have a thread for this problem? You're car's probably been in a wreck. Easiest fix = replace the WHOLE door.

 

[Rall28]

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Not sure if this applies to your year Camry...but on the mid 90's if the mirror gets bumped hard, it can bind the channel behind it & it causes the window to kind of pop outwards at the rear ....towards the top as it closes.

Just remove the mirror and check the window channel behind it for any kind of binding or mis-alignment.

I figured this out when I removed the door panel & couldn't see any problems...so after putting everything back together, I just happened to pull off the side mirror to tighten a slight gap I saw there....
And low & behold, I noticed that the window channel behind the mirror was bent in..just slightly!!!
Bent it back with a small pry bar & presto...fixed the window problem!!!!

I don't know how it happened...the mirror had no marks on it, but I could see it was slightly out of alignment with the front of the door frame.


Sooo...it doesn't take much of a bump to tweak the window channel running behind the mirror!


Any way...easy fix... if thats your problem! Wish I'd figured that out BEFORE I'd removed my whole inner door panel!!!!




....

 

[Rattlin_Steele]

There was similar thread to this a couple weeks ago (to which I still owe promised pics):

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=349663

.

Not sure if this applies to your year Camry...but on the mid 90's if the mirror gets bumped hard, it can bind the channel behind it & it causes the window to kind of pop outwards at the rear ....towards the top as it closes.

Just remove the mirror and check the window channel behind it for any kind of binding or mis-alignment.

I figured this out when I removed the door panel & couldn't see any problems...so after putting everything back together, I just happened to pull off the side mirror to tighten a slight gap I saw there....
And low & behold, I noticed that the window channel behind the mirror was bent in..just slightly!!!
Bent it back with a small pry bar & presto...fixed the window problem!!!!

I don't know how it happened...the mirror had no marks on it, but I could see it was slightly out of alignment with the front of the door frame.


Sooo...it doesn't take much of a bump to tweak the window channel running behind the mirror!


Any way...easy fix... if thats your problem! Wish I'd figured that out BEFORE I'd removed my whole inner door panel!!!!

....

That sounds like a pretty logical explanation. I wish I'd thought of this possibility before I started enlarging regulator mount holes. I did loosen up that front channel and even took the mirror off while trying to adjust my window tracking. Also vigorously cleaned the channel and the glass surface, but did not look hard at whether the channel might be bent abnormally (although nothing jumped out at me).

It seems like the problem most everyone has is when the glass gets close to the top of the door (2-3 inches or so) it begins to tilt downward toward the front of the car and come out of the rear channel. This also coincides with the point where the front edge of glass enters the area around the mirror. It's as if something begins to bind on the front and it pulls the rear out of place.

This can happen because there is a certain amount of slop in the regulator arms/rollers/bushings, etc. It was this way with my original OEM regulator and with the aftermarket replacement I used.

Rall28, can you elaborate on how you re-bent the channel? Did you put the pry bar in the groove of the rubber "glass run" and pry that way (or spread it apart) or did you just work one (or both) edge(s) of the metal channel that the rubber "glass run" sits in? Thanks!

On the wreck theory, mine was rear-ended early in its life, but the front window problem didn't appear for at least 6 years. Furthermore, going out and getting another whole door (and the likely paint job) is not a feasable option for me.

 

[Rall28]

Rall28, can you elaborate on how you re-bent the channel? Did you put the pry bar in the groove of the rubber "glass run" and pry that way (or spread it apart) or did you just work one (or both) edge(s) of the metal channel that the rubber "glass run" sits in? Thanks!
QUOTE]

….

I used a short 1x2 board, placed it on the outside of the door, resting it on the top of the door frame & the door…laying parallel to the window channel about an inch away. (I used this to brace my pry bar on to gain leverage)

I used a short pry bar with a wide head, to gently pry outwards, by prying inside the channel. It didn’t appear to harm the channel liner…but YMMV!

As I recall, the metal channel appeared kinda rotated inwards just a little..or maybe “tweaked” would be a better term…

Anyway I just worked a little at a time & when it looked good, hit the window button and bingo!!! Worked like a champ!

So it appears to me….if that small run of window channel gets a little bent or whatever, it throws the window off just enough to cause problems!


Anyway hope this helps!

****GRRRR…This about the umpteenth time I’ve typed up a long post on this forum…only to find when I hit post or preview…It throws me off & sez I have to log on!!!!
Of course when I do…I’ve lost my whole post!!!!****
It's cut & paste from now on!!!!


…..

 

[Rattlin_Steele]

Thanks! I looked more closely at the door I "fixed" and it might be suffering the same problem you describe. When I get some time, I'm going to try your solution.

 

[ajkalian]

****GRRRR…This about the umpteenth time I’ve typed up a long post on this forum…only to find when I hit post or preview…It throws me off & sez I have to log on!!!!
Of course when I do…I’ve lost my whole post!!!!****
It's cut & paste from now on!!!!
…..

That used to happen to me, and I did the cut and paste thing too. Then one day I noticed that when you log in with your user name and password there is a check box "Remember Me". If you check this box you will remain logged in forever and you won't get dumped and have to re-enter everything. Check it out and see if it solves your problem.

,

 

[Rall28]

That used to happen to me, and I did the cut and paste thing too. Then one day I noticed that when you log in with your user name and password there is a check box "Remember Me". If you check this box you will remain logged in forever and you won't get dumped and have to re-enter everything. Check it out and see if it solves your problem.

,

...


Thanks....just checked the box & I'll give it a try!


...

 

[Darchrow Enigma]

Didn't you ALREADY have a thread for this problem? You're car's probably been in a wreck. Easiest fix = replace the WHOLE door.

i don't think it was me.

.

Not sure if this applies to your year Camry...but on the mid 90's if the mirror gets bumped hard, it can bind the channel behind it & it causes the window to kind of pop outwards at the rear ....towards the top as it closes.

Just remove the mirror and check the window channel behind it for any kind of binding or mis-alignment.

I figured this out when I removed the door panel & couldn't see any problems...so after putting everything back together, I just happened to pull off the side mirror to tighten a slight gap I saw there....
And low & behold, I noticed that the window channel behind the mirror was bent in..just slightly!!!
Bent it back with a small pry bar & presto...fixed the window problem!!!!

I don't know how it happened...the mirror had no marks on it, but I could see it was slightly out of alignment with the front of the door frame.


Sooo...it doesn't take much of a bump to tweak the window channel running behind the mirror!


Any way...easy fix... if thats your problem! Wish I'd figured that out BEFORE I'd removed my whole inner door panel!!!!

you were right! i took off the door panel and the mirror...for the first hour or so i couldn't find anything. i spent the whole hour moving the window up and down, up and down...try spraying some WD40 on the joints of machinery that push/pulls the window... couldn't find anything. i was completely baffled.

that is until i realized that the channel behind the mirror IS the culprit. i didn't notice before because the bend in the metal frame was so clean, it looked like it was meant to be that way. i took off the mirror on the other side and checked, and sure enough...it wasn't bent.

i just got pliers and bent the channel back. it isn't perfect, but it's good enough that it doesn't apply pressure to the window as it is moving up. now, NO MORE PROBLEMS!

i'm still baffled how it suddenly started messing with the window. because i hit the mirror a long ass time ago, maybe last year, and only recently did it spontaneously giving me problems.

 

[SiberianTundra]

YES!!! YES!!!!! I used the search button, found this thread from 2010, and this worked!!!

I just bought a 96 Camry wagon..it was kinda beat up but at the price I paid I could live with the fixable problems.

This problem was on my right front passenger window. Took the door panel off and noticed there was a lot of play/slop on the plastic guides on the regulator. Thought I had to replace the regulator. To be sure, I came on here and found this thread. After reading this, it explains why the holes around the mirror bolt have chipped paint and noticed broken glass when removing the door panel. Someone [email protected]#?#$#@~#@ this door up at some point. Bastards!

Anyways, here's what you'll need:
8mm socket
Thick flat head prybar.

**Not sure if this can be done with the door panel on but mine was off anyways to inspect this problem. If you do, you'll need all the tools necessary to remove door panel.

Here's what to do:
- Roll window down

- On the inside front of door pull off black garnish plate behind mirror. It is held onto the door by three clips. (blue arrows point to holes where clips go into)

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- Remove the three 8mm bolts. (red arrows)

*if you do this with the door panel on, you will have to let mirror hang by wire (don't recommend) or just don't remove bolts all the way.

[/URL][/IMG]

The black part circled in yellow is part of the rubber moulding over the metal part of the door. This is the area where it's probably pinching the window as it rolls up. I think this bends in a little if someone bumps into the mirror.


The prybar I'm using is wide and stiff. Not sure you can use a wide flat head screwdriver. All I did was twist is back and forth like a screwdriver to widen the channel. Do this from the top to the bottom.

Roll the window up and it stays on track all the way!!!!

Thanks TN!!!!!

 

[sbagdon]

Odd, I've never seen this on a Gen4. On my '00, the rear/left had the same roll-down-fast roll-up-tilted, to close the window I had to line it up correctly with hands, while using the power button. Final fix was just replace the motor/regulator (probably really only needed the regulator). While doing the fix, could tell someone else tried to fix it, in that every cover, connector, screw, bolt, etc, was totally wrecked. Took two doors of parts to get it all fixed and back to normal. Yet once I got the door panel off and the plastic pulled back, replacing the motor/regulator took about 10min-15min. And now it's the fastest window in the car, might have to repalce the others, now.

 

[LE PEW]

I had this same problem on my '95 with the drivers window drooping forward towards the top while trying to close it, so much so that it would make the weather stripping bunch up at the top.
Like you I removed the door panel and ran the window up and down before I noticed that the front window track came loose from the bottom bracket. The bottom of the channel separated from the bracket because the spot weld failed leaving it to move freely when the window moved up and down causing jacked up window track alignment.
On a Gen3 the forward window channel is held on with tree nuts. I removed the window glass from the door, pulled the weather stripping from the channel, undid the three fasteners that held the channel in the door and removed the channel in a way that didn't trash it. Remember the way you remove it because it's a tight fit and has to go back in the reverse order!
Once I got the channel in the vice I secured the bracket to it using a pair of needle nose vice grips to hold it in place. I drilled a hole through the bracket and channel and put a stainless pop rivet to secure it. The head of the rivet stuck out a Little but after reinstalling it the weather stripping cover it pretty well.
After putting it all together the problem disappeared.

Just sayin' is all ........