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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
inside of my car when the car is on idle(park,drive,neutral,reverse) the car vibrates all over in all gears, but the shaking reduces when its on neutral and park, but i can still feel it all over. And this only happens when the engine warms up not when cold




*when you can't hear the engine and it is silent, its because i was holding the mic on the camera by accident lol my bad* but yea this is my car's engine, when i hold the brake and tap on the gas it slightly moves up and down, is this a sign of worn engine mounts?, cause my car shakes on idle, not when i speed up

 

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2013 Corolla S
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You have to determine how much the engine is moving around when you brake-rev. Some movement is normal. If it looks like its going to jump out of the car, at least one mount is bad.

You can also check by prying near the mount and watching the rubber. Make sure its not cracked or separated from the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
where are the mounts located? i found the one on passenger side, (*view from the video i posted* it is located on the left side of the engine),i know there are two but i cant seem to find the other one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok, so i finally had some money to spend on repairs for my car(lol), so i took my car to my local garage shop, and i told them all the symptoms. The mechanic test drove it
and said most likely its the mounts. He did a quick visual inspection, and said that the passenger side mount looks like its broken(he never took it out to inspect, im gonna ask him to do that tomorrow). Here are the estimates
$110 for aftermarket mount or
$160 for OEM toyota mount.
$38 for labor

so, since money doesn't come easy for me, i don't want to pay for this
and not having any real positive effect. So, does it sound reasonable?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
and yea i paid $157 with taxes included for the right passenger engine mount. It had no effect what so ever, the vibration is still the same. Sucks, i just wasted some good money lol but yea now what else can be the culprit? Yea, i can tolerate some vibration, but this vibration is too much. It drives me nuts! SO far i have cleaned the PCV, MAF, THROTTLE BODY, NEW SPARK PLUGS, replaced RIGHT ENGINE PASSENGER MOUNT.
 

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Is the vibration the same in Drive/Reverse/Neutral gears?

Does it get smoother if you rev the engine in neutral or in drive with the brake held?

Do you have access to a floor jack and a block of wood to raise the engine up an inch, so you can isolate it from the frame? If it gets smoother, it's almost surely the mounts. If it's the same, you could have an engine vacuum leak, misfiring cylinder, bad spark plug, bad coil pack, or something else.

If you suspect it's engine-related and not mounts, you can try this dirty trick to see isolate whether an individual cylinder is problematic:

 

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96 corolla
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well i had a bad vibration in my car an 96 corolla in reverse only. And it ended up being my timing belt tensioner. I don't think that engine has a timing belt but i don't know does the chain last forever? Cause if the mechanic believes it's from that side of the car it could be the chain.
 

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2000 Corolla
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Engine mounts and cold weather

I have a 2000 Corolla with the same symptoms as described above. My wife has a '97 Corolla that also had these symptoms, but we eventually replaced all the engine mounts and it's fine now - smooth as silk.

BUT - I want to point out that we had to replace ALL of the engine mounts. Just replacing one didn't do the trick. I tried that too.

What happened was I replaced the transmission mount during the summer and it felt a lot better, but when the weather got cold (I'm in Ohio) and the rubber started getting hard, the vibration came back.

My 2000 is now experiencing the same thing. It shakes like a paint can on a mixer when the temperature outside drops into the 30's, but on a day like today, when it's 50ish, it's noticably better and seems fine when it's 80° outside.

Just thought I'd share that observation.
 

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'98 Prizm
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I've delt with this a bit so hopefully I can shed some light on it. I have only had to replace the front motor mount (passanger side of engine bay). One of mine went out at 280K & the other went out at 265K so they made it a pretty long time. The factory mounts are fluid filled. I don't think there is an aftermarket mount made that is fluid filled. Don't get an aftermarket mount!! It will vibrate like crazy with an aftermarket mount. It's really no better than a bad factory mount.

One of the signs it's bad is that you can see a wet spot around it where the fluid leaked out. It's a light oil type fluid.

They are expensive but worth it. I've bought both mine used on ebay. Inspect the pic and make sure it is actually an OEM mount before you buy it.
 

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Hi I have a 2001 Toyota Corolla CE and I am experiencing the same problems that pocketz_)6 described in their original post. I took it to the mechanic and I replaced two of the three engine mounts and had some light repairs done on the engine exhaust. I have noticed the noise and vibrations have returned since yesterday and are just as bad as they were when I had it fixed.

Would there be any other issues that cause this other than engine mounts? Would it be possible that the mounting for the transmission has been affected? Also would I be able to drive for a while without getting it fixed?
 

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Which engine mounts did you replace?
There are 3 I know of
and I think 1 or 2 on the tranny.
 

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Hi funnman1 thank you for your prompt response. I think the front left and right back engine mounts were replaced when I took it to the mechanic. None of the mounts were replaced for the transmission.
 

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1999 Toyota Corolla
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it's a corolla, it's suppose to vibrate. you guys act like you bought a lexus!
Naw, my '99 doesn't vibrate much unless it's wicked cold out. And it usually stops any funny business after it's heated up and driven to free up anything if it's really cold out. There's a point where there is acceptable vibration compared to really rough, bad vibration. If you know your car, you know when it's doing something it really shouldn't. (Although, I can often be over sensitive to my car's sounds and feel.. but I don't replace everything I think feels off, because 80% of the time.. its fine.)

I imagine bad engine mounts would cause worse shaking. But I think it has something to do with the water content in the gas, I started up the Corolla in -25 degree weather and it shook so badly I thought the poor engine was going to achieve liftoff. I just assumed to shut it off quickly and try it later after I put some HEET in.. Plus, it refused to remain running until later that afternoon anyway.

If you assume your engine mounts are bad, it's honestly better to change them out instead of waiting for your 14 year old car to reach a certain stage and cause damage to whatever the engine might be able to sag on. Better be safe than sorry, especially with older vehicles that have been on the road for quite a while. It isn't bad to change them, even if it's a little early or not. (Hey, if I could afford it.. I'd baby my car a ton.)

Not like Corollas have quality parts installed in them from the day they're sold at the dealer, typically they're only made to last a certain number of years. With planned obsolescence, you need to be careful.
 

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e30iwite prior to the vibration the car ran very smooth, I never had the super bad vibrations that I am experiencing right now. I know I own a corolla I don't expect it to drive like a lexus at all dude.

AlecM I actually did change two of the mounts, the vibrations and noise ceased for a while and it suddenly started up again a couple of days.... So not really sure what to do at the moment since I am a student and broke.....
 

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The three I know of are
The front and center down low (by radiator).
The Passenger side top end.
and the HARD to get to one at the back of the engine lower, below the exhaust. You have to drop the front end subframe to get to that one :(
 

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If you want your mounts to last longer you can fill it up with 3M polyurethane. I know polyurethane makes the mount harder thus increasing the vibration but you can get the softest polyurethane from 3M to compensate for that.

This is what I'm doing; I'm planning on replacing all the mounts (filled w/ poly) when I change out my slipping clutch in the summer.

The one I'm using is the 3M 550 Polyurethane Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure. It has a shore A hardness of 45 which isn't too bad. I think racing poly bushings have a rating of 80 or 90.

Here is the link to the technical data (page 2):
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UgxGCuNyXTtNxf2LXf2EVtQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--
 
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