Worried about transportation this winter
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Take a look at the master cylinder area, see if there is any fluid spilled there!
The area in the pictures contain metal brakelines, unless you had hit them really hard with sharp metal object, hard to imagine it would leak brake fluid there!
The area in the pictures contain metal brakelines, unless you had hit them really hard with sharp metal object, hard to imagine it would leak brake fluid there!
Leaking from that area is a strong indication the steel pipes have rusted through.
New pipes from the dealer are very reasonably priced, but replacing them is a pain (that plastic holder which runs the length of the car must be opened up to get the old ones out / new ones in).
New pipes from the dealer are very reasonably priced, but replacing them is a pain (that plastic holder which runs the length of the car must be opened up to get the old ones out / new ones in).
I was afraid of this, a common problem on older Toyotas from the rust belt. The only way to fix this is to order new brake lines from Toyota. There is no way to SAFELY patch a brake line. Go to parts.toyota.com and enter your VIN number and search for brake lines. You need the lines that go from the distribution block mounted on the fire wall to the block mounted above the rear suspension sub frame.
I saw the same issue once when I was changing brakes on a friend's car. I got the new pads in, got in the car and pumped the brakes a few times to return the new pads to the rotors and....squish!....one of the brake lines gushed with fluid.
Bummer to have to deal with rusted lines but sure is nice that your line leaked while you were in your driveway rather than out on the highway, maybe when you needed to jump on the brakes for some critical stop!
Bummer to have to deal with rusted lines but sure is nice that your line leaked while you were in your driveway rather than out on the highway, maybe when you needed to jump on the brakes for some critical stop!
Yep, should have no problem as the flair nut is the part of the brake line assembly that usually causes all of the problems. Ask me how I know
Just use a liberal dose of PB blaster penetrating oil and let it sit for a while before you start trying to loosen the flair nuts. You will also need a set of flair nut wrenches to reduce the likelihood of rounding the flair nuts off and making the job a real mother. The only advantage you will have is that you are replacing the lines so you can escalate to a pair of plyers to get them loose if you have to. The flare nut usually rusts and seizes to the brake line and not in the distribution block.
Off topic, but that reminded me of what happened on my very first car, a '62 VW bug. By the time it was over I had replaced the entire brake line system. PITA but I learned a lot in the process. (The first lesson being "Don't buy a rusted out VW Bug"!)
That was my first car too! Lots of push starting with the wonderful 6volt system that never kept the battery charged. Fond memories of the old days.
6V n Pos grounding with generator, belt adjustment by moving the washers around for the pulley, something like that?
Check out his pics, they are leaking from under the plastic cover. Lots of corrosion on the part of the lines that you can see.
Saw that; however, there is sign of fluid a little towards the front also, just want to verify with OP to see if that was just spray or something else!
@new echo owner
I am home from work now. No, I haven't looked over the master cylinder yet. This is under the car kinda where the brake pedal is right? It's tuff to crawl under there without my ramps. They are cracked up now. Any suggestions for a new set of ramps?
I did park the car over a dry area on the driveway and let it sit over night. Spots formed under the area highlighted in the photos and the plastic track was wet with drips forming of brake fluid there too. I'm gonna scope it out again the best I can but I'm pretty beat from work right now.
I am home from work now. No, I haven't looked over the master cylinder yet. This is under the car kinda where the brake pedal is right? It's tuff to crawl under there without my ramps. They are cracked up now. Any suggestions for a new set of ramps?
I did park the car over a dry area on the driveway and let it sit over night. Spots formed under the area highlighted in the photos and the plastic track was wet with drips forming of brake fluid there too. I'm gonna scope it out again the best I can but I'm pretty beat from work right now.
The master cylinder is in the engine compartment; Just wondering it fluid might have run down from the top following the brakelines. Not necessary the case, but just want to verify! When it comes to fluid leak, always check from the top down!
If you have a smart phone, you can use the front facing camera and a flashlight to take picture underneath without crawling underneath.
Take you time, rest up first! We will be around when you are ready! Your post will here even if we aren't!
If you have a smart phone, you can use the front facing camera and a flashlight to take picture underneath without crawling underneath.
Take you time, rest up first! We will be around when you are ready! Your post will here even if we aren't!
I watched a youtube video from "Peter Finn the Car Doctor" on how to check and add brake fluid.
It has started snowing here, but is still light out.
I purchased 12oz of Dot 3 brake fluid for $4.02. I added brake fluid and pumped the brakes, but didn't see anything under the car. I pumped the brakes some more and finally felt some pressure. But again I did not see anything under the car. I pumped the brakes some more. This time when I checked underneath the brake fluid was coming out of the track at the location highlighted in the photos above. A puddle was quickly forming under this spot so I put an old container there to capture the fluid as it drips.
I wedged my self under the vehicale and pulled the track down a bit to see if I could get a better view of the lines in there. The driveway is wet with snow. I can see many rusty crusty deep fissures at the elbows just before before they exit the track and head upwards along the bottom of the car. There is a third line that connects to a rubber house as seen in my first photo. What is that, the gas line? That one looks in same condition as others.
It has started snowing here, but is still light out.
I purchased 12oz of Dot 3 brake fluid for $4.02. I added brake fluid and pumped the brakes, but didn't see anything under the car. I pumped the brakes some more and finally felt some pressure. But again I did not see anything under the car. I pumped the brakes some more. This time when I checked underneath the brake fluid was coming out of the track at the location highlighted in the photos above. A puddle was quickly forming under this spot so I put an old container there to capture the fluid as it drips.
I wedged my self under the vehicale and pulled the track down a bit to see if I could get a better view of the lines in there. The driveway is wet with snow. I can see many rusty crusty deep fissures at the elbows just before before they exit the track and head upwards along the bottom of the car. There is a third line that connects to a rubber house as seen in my first photo. What is that, the gas line? That one looks in same condition as others.
Look below the master cylinder! You are looking for fluid tracks; look for areas where you see fluid tracks below and none above! Or have someone else press the brake pedal while you check!
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