[geoff5093]

After reading some threads on people upgrading their sound systems, I've come to thinking that I should upgrade mine as well since the stock system really lacks bass.

Anyways, I would prefer a double-din HU since IMO they look a lot better. I was looking at some of the DVD players but since they start at $450 they a bit on the pricey side, and I don't think I'll even use the DVD player much anyways. Then I found this radio, and I was wondering if any of you audio gurus had any input.

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?o=r&showAll=N&g=300&i=105KWGX500&tp=5684

 

[MrSo0h0o]

JVC isnt the greatest of brands but if you arent looking for great SQ(which i assume is the case since you didnt mention anything about replacing speakers) then you should be happy with this. The only issue i see is that the sound will probably lack some bass. Since the stock speakers are crossed over by the stock HU to be optimized for bass, you wont nearly get as much bass as you would with this JVC unit, but it should yield a much clearer sound.

personally, i would save up a bit more and go for a true double din. i have a kenwood excelon DDX 8017 and it is an amazing unit. you can look for the lower lines which are going for ~400 + shipping that will be worth your money. http://electronics.search.ebay.com/...omZR40QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ34QQsacatZ3270QQsbrsrtZd

go for either the DDX 7015 or the DDX 6019(the one that ebumdude just installed)

 

[danorthface]

yea i agree. you'll probably have less bass with that upgrade. If all you want is more bass, just add a subwoofer

 

[geoff5093]

I am planning on upgrading my speakers as well, I was looking at the Infinity Reference 6022si for $100 a pair (not sure if they are good or not though). I would also connect my sub and amp that I had from my previous car for bass.

That DVD player is nice, but I liked buying from crutchfield since they include the dash kit, wiring harness, instructions, etc. Although it does cost $600 on Crutchfield.

 

[DrewsCam]

i would go with a pioneer or a kenwood headunit

 

[touringcamry]

Save up your money...That JVC HU looks kinda ugly IMO (but if you like it, nothing against you)

As far as speakers though....I wouldn't choose those. Save up your money for something like these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10185_Alpine+SPX-17REF.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3966_Diamond+Audio+D661s.html <-- there's a version with metal tweets too; this one is silk
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5113_Diamond+Audio+S600S+-HEX+S600+w-+Silk+Dome+Tweeters-.html <-- there's a version with metal tweets too; this one is silk
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7537_Pioneer+Premier+TS-C720PRS.html

 

[CamrySExxx]

^touringcamry knows his shit lol. If you want better sq than for sure get a set of components up front! best would be to power them with an amp though.

 

[geoff5093]

Save up your money...That JVC HU looks kinda ugly IMO (but if you like it, nothing against you)

As far as speakers though....I wouldn't choose those. Save up your money for something like these:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10185_Alpine+SPX-17REF.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3966_Diamond+Audio+D661s.html <-- there's a version with metal tweets too; this one is silk
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5113_Diamond+Audio+S600S+-HEX+S600+w-+Silk+Dome+Tweeters-.html <-- there's a version with metal tweets too; this one is silk
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7537_Pioneer+Premier+TS-C720PRS.html

I'm sure those sound great, but I've never really thought about getting a component system, since they've always seemed hard to install.

I have some cheap Pioneers in the rear deck but I want to replace them as they are too deep and I can't open my trunk fully.

Do you have any recommendations for just the front door and rear speakers, possibly tweeters. Also, you are the one with a single din HU right?

 

[CamrySExxx]

^ which side is rubbing? when i added alpine type-s 6x9's on the left side was rubbing. I had to raise the left side a bit so it wouldnt rub with that bar

 

[touringcamry]

For the front, components aren't much harder to install than anything else you could put in there. The front doors have 6x9s with huge holes that you'll need a MDF adapter for anyhow. Since you'll need that, just add the tweeter to that MDF and disconnect the stock ones.

As for the rear, use MDF adapter to lift the speaker up 5/8 to 3/4 inch. That should allow you to clear those metal bars.

 

[ebumdude]

OR you can just order thru Crutchfield and they will throw in the speaker brackets and all the wiring plus instructions and shipping........for FREE.

damn. I sound like a commercial.

As far as the HU goes...JVC is like what these guys said. Not great but so-so. Since I have installed my HU, I have definitely heard a more clear and crisp sound from the stock speakers vs. the stock HU.

Its still not enough though. A decent component setup is easier to install than you think.

 

[touringcamry]

I don't like Crutchfield too much. Their prices are a bit higher, but you are paying for service (tech support and knowledge), and that's worth it sometimes, plus all the goodies they throw in. However, they really only carry mainstream stuff. I haven't looked, but most likely they don't carry and Diamond Audio or Premier speakers I listed above.

Mainstream is good for some things like HUs, but there's better stuff for speakers and amps from lesser known brands like Arc Audio, Diamond Audio, Focal, Rainbow, Audison, Image Dynamics, MB Quartz, etc.

 

[MCeatalot]

the Pioneer Avic D3 is on sale for $699 at Best Buy, a $300 saving. I'm on the swing for it. Order noW!

 

[geoff5093]

OR you can just order thru Crutchfield and they will throw in the speaker brackets and all the wiring plus instructions and shipping........for FREE.

damn. I sound like a commercial.

As far as the HU goes...JVC is like what these guys said. Not great but so-so. Since I have installed my HU, I have definitely heard a more clear and crisp sound from the stock speakers vs. the stock HU.

Its still not enough though. A decent component setup is easier to install than you think.

I don't like Crutchfield too much. Their prices are a bit higher, but you are paying for service (tech support and knowledge), and that's worth it sometimes, plus all the goodies they throw in. However, they really only carry mainstream stuff. I haven't looked, but most likely they don't carry and Diamond Audio or Premier speakers I listed above.

Mainstream is good for some things like HUs, but there's better stuff for speakers and amps from lesser known brands like Arc Audio, Diamond Audio, Focal, Rainbow, Audison, Image Dynamics, MB Quartz, etc.

I've ordered from Crutchfield before and I've always liked how they include all the necessary wiring harnesses, brackets, instruction manuals, installation kits, and tell you if they fit or not.

With components, you would need to run new wiring to the crossover correct? I'm just not sure how I would get the wiring from the stock dash tweeters to the crossover, easily.

And the more I think about it, I'll probably just upgrade the speakers and perhaps get a line-out converter for my subs.

 

[touringcamry]

You have several option for the components. You can put the crossover in the doors and put both the tweeter and the mid in the door. You'd then disconnect the stock tweeter and bridge the wires there to get signal in the doors.

If you want the tweeter in the stock location, you can put the crossover in the dash somewhere and you'd need to run a bit of wire to the crossover. Then you'd need to run wire from the crossover to the tweeter and the door speaker.

The connection for the stock tweeter has 4 wires which the tweeter bridges when you connect it. Two of those wires +/- come from the stereo and the other two go to the door speaker. You take the two wires from the stereo and run that to the crossover input. On the crossover output, you would run the wires to the tweeter directly. Then for the mid output, you can run wire up the dash to the 2 wires that go from the (stock) tweeter harness to the door.

I think one of the more difficult things I had to figure out what how to get wire into the door. It took me a while of trying to feed the wire through the rubber cover before I found an easier way. Inside the frame, you can disconnect one or two wiring harness for all electrical connections in the door (windows, locks, speakers...everything) Then you squeeze the rubber and push that thing out of the frame along with all the wires. Inside the door, only push the rubber thing out. Now you can straighten the rubber thing to make feeding wiring through it easier. It really helps when trying to feed 12 AWG speaker wire.

 

[geoff5093]

You have several option for the components. You can put the crossover in the doors and put both the tweeter and the mid in the door. You'd then disconnect the stock tweeter and bridge the wires there to get signal in the doors.

If you want the tweeter in the stock location, you can put the crossover in the dash somewhere and you'd need to run a bit of wire to the crossover. Then you'd need to run wire from the crossover to the tweeter and the door speaker.

The connection for the stock tweeter has 4 wires which the tweeter bridges when you connect it. Two of those wires +/- come from the stereo and the other two go to the door speaker. You take the two wires from the stereo and run that to the crossover input. On the crossover output, you would run the wires to the tweeter directly. Then for the mid output, you can run wire up the dash to the 2 wires that go from the (stock) tweeter harness to the door.

I think one of the more difficult things I had to figure out what how to get wire into the door. It took me a while of trying to feed the wire through the rubber cover before I found an easier way. Inside the frame, you can disconnect one or two wiring harness for all electrical connections in the door (windows, locks, speakers...everything) Then you squeeze the rubber and push that thing out of the frame along with all the wires. Inside the door, only push the rubber thing out. Now you can straighten the rubber thing to make feeding wiring through it easier. It really helps when trying to feed 12 AWG speaker wire.

Thanks for the info :thumbup: