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TOP TIP: airflow meter on 3SFE can be adjusted!

16K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  Doctor J  
#1 ·
Symptoms my Camry (2.0 3SFE) had:

- after a cold start the engine would quickly idle very low (within 30 secs)
- idled rough and too low @500 rpm
- cold engine was holding back when pushed. Eventually you got launched.
- car jerked even at constant speed
- disabling the EGR valve helped a bit. No more jerking above 2500 rpm.

I bought this car from someone who had already spent some money at the local Toyota stealer to get this problem fixed.
The complete ignition was replaced which didn't help.
I checked the coolant temperature sensor which was within specs both cold and warm.
I also adjusted the inlet valve clearances. One cylinder was actually only 0.127 mm where 0.19-0.29 mm is required.
The engine responded slightly better afterwards but it didn't really solve my problem.
I disconnected and closed the EGR valve vacuum hose, which at least stopped the jerking above 2500 rpm.

Since I had ruled out everything else, I figured it was very likely the fuel mixture
was somehow way too lean, either because of the airflow meter not working correctly or because of a vacuum leak.
I tried all the tricks such as spraying the hoses with brake cleaner but never found a leak.

Next, since this engine has a mechanical airflow meter with a potentiometer in it, I figured the potentiometer is
probably adjustable, which would change the fuel mixture.
This is indeed the case, although I doubt any dealer would adjust this. They would obviously rather sell you a new AFM.

You will need to cut out the black plastic cap.
Image



Allen bolt no.1 can be loosened, then you can adjust the slide contact (2) counter-clockwise. Then tighten the bolt again.
The resting position of my contact was off the circuit board. It's now on the circuit board.
The picture was taken after adjustment.

The results are nothing short of amazing. After a cold start the engine stays at increased rpm until warm.
When it's warm it idles very smoothly @700 rpms without misfires.
The engine is now very torquey and smooth. I can let it drop to idle rpm in 3rd gear. It will pick up without complaints.
Fuel consumption is now 1 liter per 12 kms (34 mpg) which has improved considerably.

I haven't connected the EGR valve back again. Perhaps I'll test it later.
 
#3 ·
its easier than it seems. Basically cut the old silicone with a knife carefully and then pry up the cover. MARK THE SPOT ON THE GEAR WITH A SHARPIE OR A PAINT PEN!!!!!!!! if you mess up you can at least go back to a spot where you know it runs.

Then just turn it and try it :D once happy with it, just some silicone sealant should do :thumbsup:
 
#4 ·
That's for adjusting the spring tension, which modifies how it reacts to increased flow.

This modification covers adjusting the AFM to read properly at idle and to put it in its proper resistance range.

Similar modifications but a smidgeon different. :thumbsup:


As far as knowing how far to adjust it... Measure resistance across the appropriate terminals and adjust it back and forth until the resistance reads properly?
 
#5 ·
ah now i see my mistake. with the spring vs the actual measuring one uses the bolt and one you just can move the wheel.

my mistake haha
 
#6 · (Edited)
I got a little theory now. The tip of the slide contact is flexible obviously and pushes down.
Perhaps it streches over time and this gets even worse once it goes over the edge of the circuit board? This will f up your fuel mixture.
I'd love to see some comparisons of how the tip looks like on your AFM.
 
#9 ·
Is there any way to find the stock setting for this? I'm pretty sure the previous owner of the car was screwing around with this setting and now it's way too rich. I tried turning the gear until it matched the picture in the first post and the car didn't run too smoothly there.
 
#10 ·
have you already ruled out the o2 sensor? if it fails, the computer is supposed to go into a rich mode to prevent the engine from leaning out too far and causing pinging or predetonation.
 
#11 ·
I think the o2 sensor is OK. Wouldn't there be a CEL if it wasn't?

The main reason I want the change the air flow meter is because I know it's been tampered with The cover was taped on. I would like to get it back to factory spec then tweak it from there if need be.