Toyota Forum banner

DIY GUIDE: Replacing Spark Plugs on 2az-fe

1 reading
184K views 110 replies 60 participants last post by  cannelg  
#1 · (Edited)
Most people on this board probably already know how to do this or have done this before, but I thought this might be helpful for the newbs and first timers. When I did mine for the first time it would have helped a bunch if there was a thread like this. I changed mine today and decided to take some pics and do a write up.

The 2az-fe is the engine used on all four cylinder Gen 5 and Gen 6 Camry's from 2002-2009.

DISCLAIMER: This guide is meant only to give you a general idea on what the job entails. I am NOT a technician, mechanic or expert. I'm just an average joe who enjoys doing my own maintenance. If there is any inaccurate information on here the more knowledgable posters on here will be quick to point it out. I am not responsible for any damage you may do to your car while following this guide. That said, its a very easy and quick job even for diy newbs so if you've never done it before and feel up to it, there is nothing at all to be intimidated about.

Tools Required: A socket wrench or torque wrench with a 6 inch extension, a 10mm socket, a 16mm spark plug deep socket or 16mm socket tool (you will want a deep socket with a rubber gasket which will grip the spark plug and help when pulling the plug out and lowering it back in) , your 4 new spark plugs and about 30 mins of free time.

Image



STEP 1: Use your 10mm socket to remove the two nuts holding the plastic cover.

Image


Put your nuts and cover somewhere safe and clean and take a look underneath. It's all laid out nice and easy. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING, make sure you do the spark plugs one at a time. You want to make sure all the plugs, ignition coils and wires are where they are supposed to be.

Image


STEP 2: Use your 10mm socket to remove the bolt that is holding the ignition coil in place. Press down on the pressure tab to remove the wire from the ignition coil

Image


STEP 3: Pull out the ignition coil and put it somewhere clean. It should just slide out without much resistance.

Image


STEP 4: You don't want any dirt or foreign crap getting in your engine. Before you remove the spark plug clean around the hole with either compressed air, or carefully wipe it with a dry cloth making sure you dont wipe any dirt down the hole

STEP 5: Once its clean look down the hole and you will see the top of your spark plug about 6 inches down. Put the the spark plug tool or torque wrench with the 16mm spark plug socket down until you feel it grip the spark plug. GENTLY unscrew the plug. Be very careful not to break the spark plug or you will be in a world of hurt. If it doesn't budge just be patient and work on it gently until it loosens.

Image


STEP 6: Remove the old spark plug. Once its out of the threads the plug should stick to the rubber gasket on the socket and pull right out with your wrench/tool. If it doesn't take a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully fish the spark plug out.

Image


The old worn out spark plug:
Image


STEP 7: Put the new spark plug onto the torque wrench/spark plug tool. Make sure its in there tight and lower it down where the old plug was. Screw it in place

DO NOT CROSSTHREAD. The spark plugs should thread in very smoothly and effortlessly with almost no resistance until they make contact. See post #9 for a technique to avoid crossthreading. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Again you don't want to break it or make it too difficult to take them out when you relplace them. The proper way to do this is to use a torque wrench and torque it to spec, but hand tightening is also fine as long as you don't overdo it.

Image


STEP 8: Once the new plug is in there tight and secure, get the ignition coil that you took out earlier and put it back in place

Image


STEP 9: Put the 10 mm bolt back on and tighten it until the ignition coil is nice and snug. Plug the wire back into the ignition coil

Image


STEPS 10, 11, and 12: Repeat this with the other 3 spark plugs

STEP 13: Put the plastic engine cover back on, and you're done! Enjoy the improved MPG and engine performance.
 
#4 ·
Nice and informative guide with the pictures. Just my thought but personally I would've uses anti-seize on the spark plugs' thread. I don’t mess with a torque wrench and just tighten the spark plug until snug tight. Also an alternative socket for the 16mm is the 5/8’’ spark plug socket.
 
#9 ·
If you are concerned about crossthreading the plugs, put them on the end of a piece of PVC hose and use that to start threading them. It will slip if it's not going in correctly.

Also, it's a good idea to use anti-seize so that the plugs cannot corrode and get stuck. Also a good idea to put grease on the rubber boots so that doesn't get stuck on the ceramic.
 
#12 · (Edited)
If you are concerned about crossthreading the plugs, put them on the end of a piece of PVC hose and use that to start threading them. It will slip if it's not going in correctly.
thanks for pointing that out. that's actually something very important which I forgot to mention in the DIY, which is DO NOT crossthread as this can cause some nasty damage to your ignition coils. The plug should thread in very smoothly and effortlessly until it makes contact. If you feel resistance too early you might be crossthreading. will edit the opening post.

re: 5MTcamry: you don't need to blow air down the hole. the idea with step 4 is just to make sure nothing gets into your engine through the hole when you take the old plug out, so you want to make sure everything is as clean as possible.

re: questions about when you need to change them: Toyota's iridium spark plugs last a really, really long time, a helluva lot longer than regular copper or platinum spark plugs. They can easily go well over 100k miles so there is no set rule on how often to change them. Different things also affect how long the spark plug lasts such as whether you use premium or regular fuel. But when they are worn you will notice decreased mpg & engine performance so its better to change them regularly. How often you change them is a matter of personal preference. I like to change mine roughly every 75k miles.
 
#14 ·
A DIY w/o torque specs.................oh, just look it up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chilly13
#19 ·
How about using Bosch Platinum 4 equivalent??...I have heard people who swear by the Bosch plugs...or should you just be safe and go with the Toyota iridium plugs??:headbang:
 
#21 ·
I swear by Denso but I have heard good things about NGK, were talking about the IRIDIUM ones. Much better then Bosch Platium 4 (which also do not need to be gapped) plugs, IMO.

These plugs do not need to be gaped, only the cheapest spark plugs need to be gapped, do not recomend.

My advice is to spend the extra money. I would search what plugs you need through google... search "denso spark plugs" then find the model you need. I use Iridium Power, model IK20 (2008 SE I4)

I know Toyota uses a lot of Denso parts... so most likely Toyota OEM iridium plugs are made by Denso.

Usually the cheapest place to buy is Amazon. About $8.75 each.
 
#23 ·
Last comment is to the person who is getting 20mpg. THAT SUCKS!!!

When was the last time you changed the car's air filter? What oil do you use? Do you drive with the window's open? Are you driving a car that had a fender bender? Do you keep "alot" of stuff in the trunk? Are you using stock wheels? How new are your tires? When was the last time you checked your tire pressure? Do you use your A/C all the time?

All these things will play havic on your mpg. Including how heavy you are on your gas peddle especially when you are going from stop sign to stop sign.

I use 0w20 synth (best for mpg), I use a K&N stock fit air filter (purchased through Amazon for the best price), check my tire pressure every other month (try to keep at 34psi), live in the north east and don't use the A/C that much, no dents or fender bender, still on stock wheels and tires... and I get well a little over 34mpg. My car is close to 40K miles and I plan to change my spark plugs at 50K, but I just changed my tranny oil.
 
#27 ·
I just did mine the other day, I used NGK Iridium 4589's. I also grabbed them from Advance Auto- there is a 20% off coupon rolling on the bottom of the forum page. That with being able to pick them up saved me shipping vs. rock, and the plug price was less too.

I did anti-seize the plugs.
 
#29 ·
Very good DIY...
I always use the anti-seize on my plugs, My wife has a 2003 Camry ,I have a 2005 Mustang Gt with super charger ,I anti-seize the plugs in both cars,in the Mustang I used racing plugs,not cheap. a side note: there has been proof where spark plugs has seized in an engine block from not using anti-seize causing the plug to break off when trying to change it,which can be a very costly repair .. I use the dielectric grease on the electric connectors,this is the same stuff electricians use ... also if you get water inside any connector when say washing the engine compartment ,you can use a contact cleaner to evaporate the moister,then just put a little dielectric grease on the connector,this helps keep water/moister out. Trust me I've had to do this on my car before after washing engine compartment on the Mustang.( I know this is a Toyota forum,so please don't get mad at saying something about the mustang,just using it as example)
 
#30 ·
I just finished replacing my spark plugs...they really needed it. Only problem I had is 3 of the 4 tabs that click the wire into the ignition coil broke off when I put the slightest pressure on them. Is this going to cause a problem in the future? They feel snug even without the tab..
 
#31 ·
Did you try to fix it by reattaching the wire on the boot? We had to fix a plug wire on a 1990 honda accord that I'm fixing up for to either sell or going to give it to my son. You could probably Google" how to attach plug wire boot "and find the info on it. beats having to replace the wire ,when it can be fixed.
 
#34 · (Edited)
ANYBODY know the gap spec????
Like 4 people have asked over the months and yet, nothing. And saying "only the cheapest plugs need to be gapped" is not the way to do it. There is a spec for a reason.

edit - Gap is .44. Always check it, whether you're using the ones that are 8 bucks each or regular coppers for 1.50 each. It only takes a few minutes and is the right way to do it.
 
#37 · (Edited)
TY sir, this was my first DIY...couldn't have been easier with your instructions. Other than the 10mm bolt snapping off when I screwed the first coil back in (luckily able to get out w/needle nosers), it was very smooth. I just need to get a replacement bolt for that now. This was the first time my plugs have been changed @ 135k....

Next up, serp belt. Got JustAnotherAsian's thread bookmarked.
 
#38 · (Edited)
Original Plugs Lasting to 165K

I bought my 03 Camry 2.4 with 85K and am just now getting around to changing the plugs at 165K. Mileage is still great at 33mpg, but just feel that I should do some routine maintenance. My daily drive is 140 miles and about 90% flat highway driving, so I do not know if I will see any difference in mileage. I put the ngk IFR6T11 Iridium platinum plugs in. To my untrained eye the old plugs look very reasonable after all those miles. Thanks for DIY, after having changed Dodge mini-van plugs this is a walk in the park.
 
#39 ·
just did mine 85k miles

Thanks for the DIY, that may have been the easiest spark plug swap out I've ever done on any car. The top of the engine was 6" closer to the front of the car I don't think I would have even had to bend over. Why are the cars with the long maintenance intervals always the easiest to do and the ones that are a complete PITA have 30k mile plugs?