I did my biggest screw up today I went to hook up a new battery and didn't notice the terminals were opposite of the old one. I hooked up one and as soon as I touched the other terminal it sparked and the horn honked. I straightened it out but now the car won't start. I checked all the fuses and found one blown. Changed it still no good. What should I check now

Did you check the fuses under the dash, then there is the 120 amp fuse under the hood. A real PITA to remove...

 

Where under the dash-- I will get out the book. This is a gen 6 by the way-- where is the 120 amp, I checked the fuse and relay box didn't see any thing that big unless it is the blue bars in this pic, How do you remove these? A tug with some pliers didn't do anything.

 

Look under the dash at the coin holder, you will have to lay on your back.
The 120 amp fuse is the 82620-33030 numbered one. The car will start with this fuse open, but you will have weird symptoms on the dash and the battery will not be charge as the alternator isn't connected to the battery.

 

Under the dash on the left side, near the kick panel

 

You can see into these big fuses and they don't appear blown. I will check under the dash. It is a bad day for cars for me. I think the wifes Malibu just had a fuel pump die.

 

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it's just the mega-fuse. Update us as to what you found.

 

My father-in-law recently bought a Hyundai Genesis that has an internal switch preventing reverse polarity hookups from damaging the electronics. Hopefully more manufacturers will do this to prevent what is a very common mistake.

 

That is what I was hoping Toyota did on this car seems like it would be an easy thing to engineer and add at the factory.

 

Upon further inspection with a flashlight at multiple angles the 33030 does have the first junction blown. I changed a 10 amp fuse It was one of the ignition fuses under the dash. It will now start with my remote start but not with the key. I have dome lights and dash lights. No headlights etc, no power seats or ac, and the car won't go into gear. The abs lights are on the tpms light is on and the outside temp says E.

All the parts stores are already closed and wally world doesn't carry the right type of fuse. I hope the parts houses do as they are a mini size but the pins are very short and not the same as the standard mini fuses such as those under the hood. I am hoping I got away with just a bunch of blown fuses but we will see tomorrow.

I also have the wife's Malibu to trouble shoot, when it rains it pours. I found a bad relay in it, it was keeping the parking lights on all the time. It still wont start though. It will turn over and occasionally cough but not go. I think it is the fuel pump, If when it finally cools off and then it starts that will be an indication to me of the fuel pump. It has a clean fuel filter.

 

This 120 amp fuse is at the top of expanding layers of fusses and relays and more fuses.

As in;
These fuses will not have any power from the battery;
ABS 1 & 2
RR DEF
HTR
RDI FAN
FAN MAIN
Door #2
FR FOG
OBD
AM1
P/SEAT
POWER
S/ROOF
A/C
STOP

High current contacts battery power is absent on these relays also;
ACC
IG1
Tail
POWER

And the list keeps expanding from here.

 

You have been very helpful Luna2 and I appreciate it. I have my little girl with me today so I will have to wait until later when her mom gets home to really tear into it. I am afraid those little fuses under the dash might be a dealer only fuse as a couple of the parts houses here don't have them. I have a couple more to try and I am calling the dealer right now to see about that big bar fuse.

 

I am afraid those little fuses under the dash might be a dealer only fuse as a couple of the parts houses here don't have them.

If your talking about these fuses

they are dealer only. Autozone, advance auto, walmart, etc none of them carried that tiny fuse. Though my dealer didn't charge me for new ones (which is always a plus), you might get lucky.

 

Yeah my local dealer confirmed the dealer only, He said he has a bunch of those in stock. I don't know about the price for them. The big bar fuse he will have in by 8am tommorrow $22 and change so that is not as bad as it could be. I will let you know how it goes when I get the parts and swap them out. Any big things to worry about with taking apart the fuse block? It seemed like just the one bolt in the block itself then some plastic snap together action?

 

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and leave it loose till you are complete with the fuse change.

 

Yeah I am attempting it to take it apart right now. I have the battery completely out. I have the plastic structure of the fuse box loose from the car but I am not sure how to separate it.

How do you get this portion to come loose, Does it need a special tool?

 

Man you were right what a PITA!

 

PITA is right. I've got some pins that I removed with the wires from old connectors for that... get the locking parts peeled apart, slip the pin in to hold it apart, and move to the next until they're all free. Looks like you got it.

 

Yeah I don't know why they don't do a cam locking type of fastener like they have on some of the other harnesses. Or at least have the bolts come down from the top. That is nuts! I sure hope I can get it all back together tomorrow. Do they make a special tool for those one connectors?

 

Well here is an update. I went to the dealer and came back with the 120 amp fuse block and some smaller ones. I changed it out along with one more 15 amp that was blown under the hood.

I have all the power back on but I think it wiped the immobilizer. It isn't recognizing the key. I can start it with the remote start but not the key. As soon as you hit the brakes it knocks out the instrument panel and the ac. I drove it 66 miles back to the dealer 12 minutes at a time. That is how long my remote start is set to run, what a PITA!

I hope they can reprogram it or it is something else cheap I don't know about. They quoted $310 for the anti-theft computer and $234 per key. That is the part that really ticks me off, they are just so clearly raping people with that price. I understand that they have a chip and dedicated software etc but they make them by the millions. If they have more than $20 per key in them I would be shocked.

Does anyone know of a source for these keys? I understand that if they have to replace the computer you have to get a matched master key, but I can set a blank to that master once it is set up, so I could at least save a little on one key.

 

Well in the hope of helping some one else in the future I thought I might make a little crude how to on the fuse change so here goes.....

First here are the tools I used. 10mm sockets standard and deep with a couple extensions, a couple of screw drivers to pop off all the little plastic tabs, a very small torx wrench or allen key to push those two pita locks on the corner, small pliers, needle nose might be better for some of it, but I didn't use them, and a flash light and magnet picker upper for the stuff you know you will drop.

1. Disconnect this nasty thing. 10mm socket, The tray just sits there and will lift right out, no bolts or anything.

2. Take the top off of the fuse block, just push on the little tab and it comes right off.

3. First I popped off all of the harness connectors to make it easier to move around and see/get to the little plastic tabs. This first one is how I wish they would have done the fuse block a nice positive lock cam mechanism no tool needed. It is actually on the ecm but It was in the way somewhat so out it came.

The rest just pull right out when you press in on the little tabs with a screw driver.

4. This is where we are at now, the next will be to take out the bolt to the top left of the center of these photos, 10mm again.

5. Now the section that the bolt was holding down just slides right up with a little poke down the sides with a screwdriver and a pull.

6. There are several of these little tabs on this side and around the corner next to the fire wall and all around it a screw driver with a pull releases them.

7. Same pic as before it has one push pin type connector that just popped out for me along with two more 10mms' bolting it to the fender. There is one more down by the battery tray, wait a bit on it --- it helps to have it somewhat anchored for a little bit more.

8. Next the small little block right next to the big fuse blocks will come out with a little screwdriver prying on either end and a tug with the pliers. Get one side up a little first and rock it out.

9. The side next to the firewall will slide out of its groove I think it needed a little spread at the top then pull. The second pic show the box to the right of this section, you can see the right edge of the slot in that one. Don't mess with the screws you don't need to take them out.

10. Now for the biggest pita part, this corner. It has about midway down on either side small springy catches that are in the slot type holes that must be pressed in hard while pulling/prying up, you just about need to do both at once, It sure looked like it was designed for a small custom tool to me, this is where I poked the heck out of it with the little torx wrench.

Free at last

11. This is the last obstacle. this little cover was kind of strange really a little pry and it popped open to reveal the two smaller wires, then pry on the right side it will come out and I just bent it down towards the left side it doesn't need to come out, you will have room if you lift up on the now free section of the fuse box.

12. And here we have the bolts that hold the 120 amp fuse blocks in. I once again used a 10mm on it.

13. The fuse will come straight up and out with a tug from the pliers after the bolts are out. It has three holes --- the side with the two holes is closer to the firewall and the bolts go on the very end of the fuse, the hole to the inside of the fuse isn't used in this case.

14. Hope and pray that all you did was fry this fuse, I wish I was so lucky I will update when The dealership tells me what else is fried

 

Well I have the car back, $263 later, with all the parts I changed and gas running around I spent $400 in less than one second. That is worse than Vegas!

The tech that worked on it had a family matter come up and was gone by the time I made the 66 mile drive to the dealer. I didn't get a chance to quiz him. The ticket says it was a 7.5 amp fuse AM1. I got the impression it was not under the dash or hood where else would this fuse be? I did check every fuse, I didn't put a meter on them but got a very good look none of them were burned and I visually saw a complete wire on every one. It also had codes 500, 2780, b1861, and u0129. Any idea what all of those are?

Any way, I hope I got my real moment of genius done for the next decade!

 

AM1 fuse is under the dash and provides 12 volts to the following (no voltage = dead)

ACC Relay dead (radio 2, ECU-ACC & Power Outlet will remain dead)
IG1 relay dead (Gage #1, ECU, IG #1, WIP, WASH, A/C #2, S-HTR & ECU IG #2 will remain dead)
Main body ECU IG1D pin dead (E7 pin 3)

Well, at least everyone else will benefit from this interesting thread owing to your good details that were posted.

Lesson learned "Be real careful with the alternator and battery wiring. Double check everything before connecting"

 

Absolutely, also I would add based on what you said it was a fuse I had visually checked, so don't trust your eyes, get out the meter! I know I sure will from now on. I really knew better should have done that from the start, would have saved me the majority of the dollars if not the time.

 

This is a link to a thread where a member had the same issue with a 7gen which has some slight differences. -- http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...-generation-2012/1367218-solved-12v-wire-ign-touched-metal-car-won-t-start.html

 

I believe I mentioned how in this thread, are the pics gone? As I remember It is made of several interlocking plastic pieces. I took a screw driver and pried and pulled them apart at the joints. It's been so long ago now that if it isn't detailed in this thread I don't remember any more that that.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0891025NXWS?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh2y49K8ANrRvD8xOlizIztmK6NFOiSh7As8bBLhGrbg==

Data Sheet:

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/240/Littelfuse_LowProfileMINI_Datasheet-523217.pdf