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8th Generation (1998-2002) Specific discussion of the 8th generation

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Old 05-30-2006, 11:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lightbulb Its Time! 8th gen corollas FAQ

The project was for my wife's '98 CE, and it was easier than I thought it would be. Lasted no more than 20 minutes tops

The objective was to replace the burnt out 194 bulb that provides the backlighting for the right part of the speedometer. Here are the steps:

1) Locate and remove the 2 Philips screws (circled in yellow) on top of the gauge cluster plastic frame.



2) Pull the frame out grasping the top and bottom ends (you may need to use a screwdriver to gently pop out the sides). Don't worry about the plastic material of the frame; it's fairly strong.

3) The instrument cluster should now look like in the pic below. Next, locate and remove 3 Philips screws (circled in yellow) from the actual cluster.



4) Lift the cluster up and out of the dashboard, and unclip the 4 electrical connectors from the cluster.




5) To access the backlighting bulbs, locate the 3 green-colored sockets (circled in yellow) on the back side of the cluster. Just twist to unlock, and pull out the 194 bulb attached to the socket. It's that easy



The pic below shows the burnt out bulb on the far left, what the actual bulb looks like in the middle (with the green rubber cap), and a brand new 194LL clear bulb ($2.75 for a 2-pack from Wal-mart). The green rubber cap must be saved for the new bulbs since that is how the green colored backlighting is obtained. Of course you can put in a different color rubber cap (like blue or red) but my wife loves the stock green. You can find these rubber caps at your local auto parts or performance shop, or find a local dealer at http://www.autometer.com.



Hope this helps anyone out there with backlighting problems or issues

-Doug
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Its Time! 8th gen corollas FAQ

This is your overall source for just about any question you might have on the 8th gen corolla. It's will be updated as long as great threads are being created. If you cant find it here then it must be one hell of a question

Intakes: www.Weapon-R.com
www.Knfilters.com

Make Your Own CAI DIY Link: http://trdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33120&highlight=cold+air+intake



Exhausts: BBP did/does make one. I Can’t find info on it as of now. Most people just by mufflers and get the rest of the exhaust custom made. (Magnaflow, Ebay)

Drops: (thanks Hummerh2o)
For the biggest drop look into coilovers.

Next best drop is Tein S Tech: 1.9 Front, 1.4 Rear
I recommend ebay seller: aj_squared08
Price: $194.99
Tein H Tech: 1.3 Front, 0.8 Rear.
Price: $192.40

Skunk2: 1.3 all around.
Price: $213.94

*Cheap stuff*
CM Canuck Motorsports: 1.8 Front, 1.7 Rear.
Price: $150.95[/font]

Spring Tech: 1.8 drop all around.
Price: $103.90

Interior: the Infamous HVAC lighting: http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=98
Bulbs: Cluster=3 194 bulbs
HVAC=2 74 bulbs
Shifter=1 74 bulb Ignition ring=1 74 bulb

Exterior: Common Tire Sizes: 17" 205/40x17
16" 205/45x16
15" 195/50x15

http://vamp.darkravers.net/cpg/index.php<< probably the best 8th gen corolla DIY website IMO

Feel free to add anything i've missed because i'm only human. so to our FAQ.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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add:

All suspension parts from 7th generation (1993-1997) and 8th generation (1998-2002) are completely interchangeable.

Typical coilover options depend upon your budget and can range anywhere from $500 all the way to over $3000 for a quality set.

Aftermarket struts that are recommended (listed in order of highest performance and price to lowest performance and price):

1. Koni Yellows (Strut inserts that require your stock shock housing to be modified, gives the best handling characteristics, adjustable dampening)
2. Tokico HP (A bit stiffer than stock, very good compromise between ride quality and improved handling)
3. KYB GR-2 or Bilstein Touring Class (OEM replacements, very soft riding, similar to stock. Perfect for replacing your blown stockers).

A good place to purchase OEM Toyota parts online is: 1st Toyota Parts, I've dealt with them many times over the phone and they are always helpful and offer fast shipping and great prices.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Performance Options

#1. Build a Cold Air Intake, How? Check Link. You can also look for a ELP CAI, although they are hard to find.
DIY Link: http://trdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=33120&highlight=cold+air+intake

#2. Cat Back Exhaust, I personally have and recommend a 2.5" custom made Mendrel bent exhaust with Magnaflow muffler.

#3. Pulstar Pulse Plugs supposedly offer HP improvements, although I do not personally use them so cannot vouch for any notices in HP gain.

#4. Lighten the weight of your car, this can include lighter wheels, remove spare tire(use that spray stuff) anything else you don't need take out.

#5. HKS Exhaust Header, although many speculate you should just port and polish the stock header, and essentially useless unless you have a turbo, (correct if wrong).

#6. NOS, I don't recommend.

Correct me anywhere needed.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:18 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Time to plunk down my brain dump!

Generations
Generation 8.0: 1998-2000
Generation 8.5: 2001-02

Model year differences

Gen 8 Corollas received a facelift in model year 2001. Differences are new bumpers which also required changes to fenders, slightly larger and curved corners, change from single H4 bulbs to 9005+9006 for the headlights. Also new is an opening for factory fog lights, standard on S but not available for all other trims.

Maintenance items

Spark plugs
Non-VVT-i: NGK BKR5EKB-11/Denso K16TR11, optionally BKR5EKPB-11/PK16TR11 platinum
VVT-i: NGK BKR5EIX-11 iridium

Engine oil
3.4 litres of any recent 5W-30 engine oil. Mobil 1 synthetic is a known good match to the 1ZZ engine. I use it myself. With good maintenance, tall oil filter (below) and Mobil 1, 8 months/8000km oil changes is possible, even for older 98-99 Corollas.

Oil filter
Stock size: 90915-YZZF2, PH4967 (for cross reference only; for your car's sake don't run FRAM )
Tall size (stock on 2ZZ, but fits perfectly on 1ZZs): 90915-YZZF1 (Recommended),PH7317

Manual transaxle oil
Two quarts of API GL-4 or GL-5 75W-90 gear oil. Red Line MT-90 is recommended. Use a 24mm socket to open the drain and fill plugs.

ATF
Dexron III ATF. Dexron VI should also be compatible. See user manual for capacity. Drain and fill every 2 years is enough for most situations. Open drain plug with a 10mm hex head. Fill through the dipstick tube.

Coolant
5.8 litres of a 50/50 mixture of Toyota Red and distilled water. Get it from a dealer. Grocery store, drinking grade distilled water is sufficient. Do NOT use spring water.

Cleaning MAF
Only Corollas with VVT-i has it. When MAF gets dirty you will notice a drop in gas mileage; CEL may come on with code P0171. Unscrew MAF from airbox, spray electric contact cleaner on two wires, one exposed, one shielded, be sure to clean both wires.

Wheels and tires

Stock steelie weigh 18lbs each.

Stock tire size
S/LE/VE Touring (98-00): 185/65/14
VE/CE: 175/65/14
Same speedometer calibration is used for all Corollas. You can step up to 185/65/14 with impunity.
Most common wheels found at this size are 14x6" +38 offset.

15" size: 195/55/15. Most common wheel spec at this size is 15x6.5" +40.
Another common size is 195/50/15. Only recommended if your stock size is 175/65/14.

16" and 17" sizes: see above

Wiper blades
Stock size is 18" passenger side, 20" driver side. 19" passenger and 21" driver blades can be used, but the wiper will move slower.

Common mods

Front end conversion
8.0 gen Corollas can have a 8.5 gen front end installed. Details elsewhere in this thread. Once the conversion is done, factory fogs can be installed (see below).

Fog lights (Some additions by Cyberbilly)
Factory fog lights can be installed on an 8.5 gen, or an 8.0 gen with the 8.5 front end. In addition to installing the lights themselves, the turn signal stick on the steering column must be replaced with a turn signal stick off of an S model, which has the fog light switch built in. The Toyota part number for this stick is 84140-02080. Finally, a small relay (part number 90080-87010, same as another small, gray relay in that area) has to be installed to an orange socket near the flasher relay, located above driver side kick panel.
All 8.5s (only) are pre-wired for fogs, as well as the signal stalk with fog light switch. You have to run your own wires, including providing for the relay, on a 8.0 gen.
Without a front end conversion, the tallest fog lights you can fit through a 8.0 bumper without cutting anything is 1.5".

Rear end conversion
The only external difference between 8.0 and 8.5 is the backup light lens on the trunk, which is an easy swap. To do this swap without breaking anything you need a long reach needle nose pliers to remove three clips in addition to the 3 nuts.
A not so visible change is the emergency trunk release lever on inside of trunk lid.

Getting a Tachometer
Consider swapping in a factory gauge cluster with tachometer before even thinking about anything else. With two caveats this is plug and play.
Caveat 1: With the facelift some wiring to the gauge cluster was rearranged. 01-02 can use 98-00 clusters by swapping pins 2 and 3 in the blue plug; 98-00 cannot use unmodified 01-02 clusters.
Caveat 2: You must transfer the speedometer from your old gauge to retain odometer reading (and stay legal). This is held to the cluster only by 5 screws which doubles as electrical contacts.
With the tachometer you also gain an outside temperature readout, but a ambient temperature sensor is needed. Get it from the dealer. All gen8s are pre-wired for all these.

Recommended Intake upgrades
K&N drop-in filter, #33-2672
And a number of intakes mentioned elsewhere

Electrical mods
Battery is group 35.
A group 35 Optima Red is available, so is a rarer group 35 Optima Yellow, but there are questions about Optima's reliability. OTOH my factory Delco Freedom 55D23L, rated only for 310CCA, served for 9.5 years after rolling off Cambridge ON.

Horn upgrades
Two horns can be wired - there is no one way to do it.
ZZE110 only has one puny horn from factory. Favourite upgrades are two Hella Supertones. Fiamm Freeway Blaster is also an option. If you must have an air horn, try Stebel Nautilus Compact.

Power amenities
All gen8s are only partly pre-wired for power mirrors. Additional wires and jacks are needed for each of the front doors.

In car entertainment
One single DIN slot under center vent, one double DIN slot below HVAC controls, usually taken up by a storage bin or box.
On a Prizm, there is one double DIN slot below HVAC controls occupied by the radio, located higher than in a Corolla.
Front speaker is 5.25", rear speaker is 6.5".

LED upgrades
There is no light failure sensor of any kind on 8th gens so LEDs for brake lights are plug and go. An LED-compatible flasher is required to use LEDs for turn signals - this is a flasher-specific thing. Load resistors are not recommended. Use CF13GL-02 from V-leds or superbrightleds.
Make sure the bulbs you use in CHMSL and front turn signals have LEDs that fire sideways.

Seat belt reminder conversion
There have been numerous reports of seat belt reminder failures on 8.0 gens caused by a contact inside the seat belt spool coming loose. 8.5s have this contact at the buckle and are immune from this problem.
I posted a conversion DIY on corolland and also corollacustomz.
EDIT: Someone tried my fix and it works! (Includes link to the actual DIY on corolland)

Transmission Swaps

A245E->C59 swap
Manual swap is a major undertaking, but besides all the fun in driving a stick, if done right is worth it as it opens the door to a lot of advanced gas saving (read hypermiling) techniques. Not to mention the auto tranny cannot be flat towed. Axles are identical for all trannies.
Clutch pedal have 4 mounting points, 3 nuts and a bolt. One nut screw on a stud on cross brace, one bolt bolts to firewall. Neither points are present on an auto car.
Needs repinning connectors on VVT-i engines with 4-speed auto.

A131L to C59 should be same, if not a bit easier.

A131L->A245E swap
Needs repinning connectors on VVT-i engines. Should get ECU from same generation 4-speed auto car. You gain one more gear and improved highway mileage.

2ZZ-GE swap
Has been done. Fabrication is required, as is the 6-speed transmission that goes with it. 1ZZ and 2ZZ have different bellhousing patterns.

VVT-i
Gen 8 Corollas gained VVT-i in model year 2000. With VVT-i also comes the change to individual coil-on-plug setup which places one coil on top of each spark plug and use of iridium plugs. 98-99 use two ignition coils, firing two cylinders at a time.

VVT-i is more for emissions than performance, although VVT-i-equipped 1ZZ-FEs in ZZE110s are rated 5hp more at 125hp.

1ZZ-FEs have no fuel return line. Fuel pump and pressure regulator are all in the tank, which like the fuel filter in these cars is not usually a maintenance item.
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Last edited by Buurin; 06-19-2010 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 04-16-2009, 09:38 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Here's some really generic brakes/steering diagnosis (I've seen this asked a bunch of times in the last few months):

1. The steering wheel shakes/vibrates at certains speeds. This is usually due to the wheels/tires being out of balance. A quick and free check would be to rotate the rear wheels/tires to the front (assuming the rear wheels/tires are in balance). Get the wheels/tires balanced and rotated at your local tire shop.

2. There is vibration/shaking when I'm braking. This is usually due to "warped" rotors. You can try to re-bed the brake pads to the rotors. If this doesn't work you should replace your rotors and possibly replace your brake pads as well.

3. The car pulls left or right when I take my hands off the steering wheel. This is usually due to the car being out of alignment. Get the car aligned.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:31 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Here's one that will probably be deleted ..but here goes...ready?


Don't buy the OBX exhaust header for the 8th gen.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vibebreaker View Post
Here's one that will probably be deleted ..but here goes...ready?


Don't buy the OBX exhaust header for the 8th gen.

Heres an idea... ready?

Explain

Seeing as how this is a Faq.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hokie_sti View Post
Here's some really generic brakes/steering diagnosis (I've seen this asked a bunch of times in the last few months):

1. The steering wheel shakes/vibrates at certains speeds. This is usually due to the wheels/tires being out of balance. A quick and free check would be to rotate the rear wheels/tires to the front (assuming the rear wheels/tires are in balance). Get the wheels/tires balanced and rotated at your local tire shop.

2. There is vibration/shaking when I'm braking. This is usually due to "warped" rotors. You can try to re-bed the brake pads to the rotors. If this doesn't work you should replace your rotors and possibly replace your brake pads as well.

3. The car pulls left or right when I take my hands off the steering wheel. This is usually due to the car being out of alignment. Get the car aligned.
Thanks so much for the information! I think my 99 corolla has all three problems (maybe two): my car vibrates at around 70 and my car is shaking when I'm braking. How much does it cost to fix? Should I go to the dealership or loca mechanic? If I don't fix the problems, will they affect MPG?

Thanks!

Charlotte
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Old 04-17-2009, 10:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlotte View Post
Thanks so much for the information! I think my 99 corolla has all three problems (maybe two): my car vibrates at around 70 and my car is shaking when I'm braking. How much does it cost to fix? Should I go to the dealership or loca mechanic? If I don't fix the problems, will they affect MPG?

Thanks!

Charlotte
The rotors are about $150 a set, plus the labor to install them. It is pretty straight-forward so a local mechanic should be able to do it. Not replacing them won't affect your MPG, but it wil cause addtional wear and tear on your front end. Steering and suspension bushings will wear out quicker which will cost you more in the long run.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I made an update to my dump above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vibebreaker View Post
Don't buy the OBX exhaust header for the 8th gen.
My understanding is this thing does not allow for flex pipe and could eventually crack and leak? This thing is exhaust manifold and downpipe all in one piece.
But yes you should explain.
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Old 04-17-2009, 03:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hummerh2o View Post
Heres an idea... ready?

Explain

Seeing as how this is a Faq.
haha dude, you dont have to be an asshole.

anyway, it cracks and leaves an exhaust leak. the design is flawed - it causes vibration against front sway bars during acceleration. furthermore, the welding of the o2 sensor location is too far out and contributes to the CEL p0420 because the sensor is placed too far out of the exhaust airflow.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have the header and yes it's a pain in the ass if you don't want to spend the money to get it done right. It's working properly now problem free after I got a flex pipe welded in and the header welded directly to the downpipe to eliminate all leaks.

btw, add this to the list for a full list of suspension components.

Ultimate suspension guide for 7th and 8th gen Corollas.
http://trdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32446
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Old 04-21-2009, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gcorolla99 View Post
please pin this to the top of the forum or create an FAQ. another vote from me. it would really save a lot of time. would help if there are links to transmission level checking, transmission flushing. I searched, read it, then lost the pages. we need a thumb tack.
Level checking:
M/T: With car level, open the fill plug (higher, towards front of car) and stick your finger in there. fluid level should be level with bottom of fill hole.

A/T: Run car at idle, apply brake, shift through all levels from P to L and back. With engine warm, pull red dipstick and read it just like engine dipstick. fluid level should be between two higher notches.

Flushing:
A series of unusually frequent (eg. 300 miles) tranny fluid changes. Only really applies to A/T.
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Last edited by Buurin; 04-27-2009 at 08:52 PM. Reason: silly typo
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
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bump anybody got anything to add?
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