Greetings Mike,

That drive cycle pattern seems too long, especially step F.

Here's a link to another TN thread that has the official Toyota drive cycle patterns attached - IIRC you're looking for pattern "4" in the document. ( ajkalian's post #3. ) ... It's what I've used here on the '00 Camry.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/need-98-camry-drive-cycle-info-to-reset-monitors.1630038/?post_id=13822506#post-13822506

 

A couple of thoughts:

• the smog check station will check if there were any recently cleared codes and make you do the drive cycle to make sure the issue was repaired (and doesn't come back).
• most of the time when there is a code for "CAT", it means the A/F sensor or the O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe (positioned before and after the CAT) are old/worn. They start to wear out after about 100k miles in the harsh environment they work in (exhaust). Densoautoparts.com is a very good place to search for those sensors, and will include links to authorized vendors (too risky to buy Denso sensors from eBay or Amazon because so many counterfeits). Also, it is not worth trying to use aftermarket sensors because they usually don't work (stick with only OEM or Denso).
• CATs usually last the life of the vehicle, because being catalyst they are not used up so there's no age limit.

 

Thank you! Her car did not have any code before I replaced the battery. She didn't drive much since. Everything else was cleared except the "catalyst incomplete". Her car has 80k miles and she owns it since new. Time flies!

 

Thank you so much CamryFL!!! The link you showed is much more comprehensive as it was divided into different categories. My wife's OBD has only the "Catalyst" incomplete so this is the section you pointed to below. Thank you so much! Nowhere in that official doc said about repeat 10 times! We are going out to drive in a little bit. Will report back! Thank you!
mike-

PS: Pattern 3 is for 'O2S' type and pattern 4 is for "A/F". How do I know which one I have?


Drive Pattern Procedure
Connect the OBDII Scantool to DLC3 to check monitor status and preconditions.
Note the IAT (Intake Air) value during engine startup. The driving time must be adjusted
during step “a” based upon IAT (Intake Air) value at startup.
a. Drive the vehicle at 40 – 55 mph (64 – 88 km/h) for the time described below:
If IAT (Intake Air) was less than 50F (10C) when the engine was started,
drive for 7 minutes.
If IAT (Intake Air) was greater than 50F (10C) when the engine was started,
drive for 3 minutes.
b. Drive the vehicle allowing speed to fluctuate between 35 – 45 mph (56 – 72 km/h)
for about 16 minutes.

 

Q: it said "Drive the vehicle allowing speed to fluctuate between 35 – 45 mph (56 – 72 km/h)
for about 16 minutes."

Can I stop in between when driving 35-45 for 16 min? Otherwise, it'll be hard to find a road to drive 35-45 without stopping by red lights or stop sign!

 

PS: Pattern 3 is for 'O2S' type and pattern 4 is for "A/F". How do I know which one I have?

Mike, the Emissions sticker under the hood - will tell you if your vehicle is "California" or "Federal / lower 48" emissions.

Can I stop in between when driving 35-45 for 16 min? Otherwise, it'll be hard to find a road to drive 35-45 without stopping by red lights or stop sign!

That's a tough one, dunno. For example, ride from home to work is 25+minutes, with mixed speeds of 55mph <-> 30mph in some areas - and the Catalyst monitor will set, during that trip.

If you have the opportunity to find a road allowing you to do a minimum 35 mph speed for 15+ minutes, that's where I'd go, if it was here.

 

Hi all

Hi all, thank you so much for all your help, I owe you all a beer! We went out for a drive. Before we went out the catalyst was incomplete. I monitored it with a Bluetooth OBD and the Torque app from the passenger side, my wife was driving. After the 1st step: driving 40-55 mph on the freeway for 4 min, it was completed! We didn't have to do step 2!

Thank you thank you! We truly appreciate all your help!
Mike

 

By 1998 or so every Toyota sold in US or Canada was Cali emissions. It was cheaper to build one version.
Be happy you didn't buy a Nissan. Book time for the drive cycle is 3 hours to complete. I have seen some with catalyst not run even after 500 miles. 6 Months in my Mom's Altima. In a state where 2 Not Ready passes. Cat and EVAP monitors are trickiest to run, too many conditions have to be met at the same time. My old 97 Outback was completely ready in 10 minutes.

 

@CamryFL our Camry is California so it has A/F.

 

@norm356 Thanks for the advice. Her car didn't have any code before I replaced the battery (it died after about 4 years).

Now I wonder if I should connect the car's 2 battery cables to a 12V source temporarily to keep the obd memory before I disconnect the battery to avoid all these trouble?

 

@norm356 Thanks for the advice. Her car didn't have any code before I replaced the battery (it died after about 4 years).

Now I wonder if I should connect the car's 2 battery cables to a 12V source temporarily to keep the obd memory before I disconnect the battery to avoid all these trouble?

Yes, that's a good idea, plus you won't have to set the radio stations and clock again. That's the way I do it. I use a portable booster on mine. After replacing the battery without doing that, the OBD loses all its parameters and needs to learn then again according to present conditions, and that's what doing the drive cycles does. Glad you did the proceedure and the car is all squared away now.

 

You’re overthinking it. Just drive it normal; some city traffic and on the highway and it will be ready for testing.

 

Hi all, we are in California. I replaced the battery in my wife's 2000 Camry 4-cyl a month ago and today the 'catalytic' in OBD still said 'incomplete' and it needs to do smog check in 1 month. I found the following drive cycle on the web:

A. Start the engine and allow it to idle for 2 minutes or more.
B. Drive the vehicle at 40-70 mph or more for at least 3 minutes. Be sure to maintain engine speed between 900 and 3,200 rpm.
C. Stop the vehicle and allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds or more.
D. Drive the vehicle at 25 mph for at least 40 seconds or more. Be sure to maintain engine speed above 900 rpm.
E. Stop the vehicle and allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds or more.
F. Perform steps “D” and “E” ten times.
G. Drive the vehicle allowing speed to fluctuate between 35-45 mph for about 16 minutes.

--------------------
Question 1: But is this the only way to clear?
Q2: Do these steps A to G need to be driven without turning off the engine?
Q3: In Step G, it'll be pretty hard to find a road to drive 35-45 for 16 min without stopping. Can I stop at red light then continue" Or do I have to drive continuously for 35-45 mph without going below 35 mph?

She owns the car since 2000 and I don't remember having to follow this drive cycle every time the battery was replaced...

Thank you so much for any help/comments.
mike-

My formula for clearing the incomplete drive cycle is simply to drive around a fwy loop for about 65 miles a night after work. In my experience, in my 2000 2.2 it takes me about 150 miles to get all the drive cycles to clear that are going to clear without any other intervention. And i get to clear my head and listen to a narrated book, or an hour or so of mobile meditation
Works for me