surgery went well. I opted for a crimp barrel, but also tinned up the stripped leads with good Pb solder so the barrel holds better

Wires were both clear (in the middle) but red sleeve was on (bad) knock sensor 2.
Sleeve moves so be careful no to lose it after cutting!

Both wires get cut, then tied the two connector side wires together

the good sensor (1) gets tied to these with a shrink tube on the splice AND on the end of the bad 2 sensor wire.

As far as I can tell the Gen 3 wires are as follows

If the Mr2 1MZ-FE swap crowd are correct. I'll drive car hard for a couple days and then reinstall the glove box...

 

surgery went well. I opted for a crimp barrel, but also tinned up the stripped leads with good Pb solder so the barrel holds better

Wires were both clear (in the middle) but red sleeve was on (bad) knock sensor 2.
Sleeve moves so be careful no to lose it after cutting!
View attachment 285030
Both wires get cut, then tied the two connector side wires together
View attachment 285033
the good sensor (1) gets tied to these with a shrink tube on the splice AND on the end of the bad 2 sensor wire.
View attachment 285036
View attachment 285037
View attachment 285038
As far as I can tell the Gen 3 wires are as follows
View attachment 285039

If the Mr2 1MZ-FE swap crowd are correct. I'll drive car hard for a couple days and then reinstall the glove box...

The Lexus guys figured this one out, the dreaded P0330 means one of two things on a 1MZFE engine: the signal wire from the #2 knock sensor is shorting to ground due to wear on the wiring harness stuck in the vibration and heat in between the heads AND/OR the sensor is truly bad. The former is often the case and since its at least a couple hours to get to these sensors or the harness people would like an easier fix.

The sensor merely takes a 5VDC signal from the ECU and adds a small AC waveform to it in event of a specific vibration; the sensor is a piezoelectric microphone. this little AC signal is hightly succeptible to noise, thus the shielded wire Toy used on the harness. This puts a tube of grounding all around the 5V signal wire so its incredibly easy for it to short as it ages.

Of course the car still runs after throwing this code BUT it runs with maximally retarded timing and no O/D so its a gutless sled. If you only get one knock sensor code : P0330 or P0325 there is a quick hack to avoid the code ruining your day.

Remove the glove box, pull the ECU connector from the knock sensors (E11 on Gen4 1MZFE) and splice the good sensor wire output onto BOTH ECU inputs, leaving the bad sensor wire floating:
View attachment 284973

its a bummer to cut wires but once the other sensor goes re-splicing them will be a minor chore compared to the full overhaul you have to do

a modified DIY is here, I'll be doing this tomorrow and will report back!
View attachment 284974

Will this work in a 2004 Sienna? Error code I'm getting: Error code: Knock sensor one circuit low input (bank one) P0327

Thanks

 

Nice DIY on the workaround!

I added this to The Sticky.

 

Car runs strong, no more P0330, I'm putting glove box back on!

I hope knock 1 functions for a good long time!
And I also hope this serves others who encounter one bad knock sensor circuit on 1MZFE!

 

Car runs strong, no more P0330, I'm putting glove box back on!

I hope knock 1 functions for a good long time!
And I also hope this serves others who encounter one bad knock sensor circuit on 1MZFE!

Tedmich

Car runs strong, no more P0330, I'm putting glove box back on!

I hope knock 1 functions for a good long time!
And I also hope this serves others who encounter one bad knock sensor circuit on 1MZFE!

@tedmich, thank you so much for the info you have provided so far. But I'm still completely lost. I am somewhat ADD and lost looking at wiring diagrams. So instead, I took a picture of my wiring harnesses behind the glove box and labeled each one. Could you do me a huge favor and give me super simplified instructions that even an idiot like me can understand? I'm looking for something like this: "Take the red wire from wiring harness labelled #2 and connect it to the blue wire from wiring harness labeled #4." If I had instructions like this, I could probably figure that out. PS - I have the 3.3 L 3MZ-FE V6 in a 2004 Sienna. And the error code is: Knock sensor one circuit low input (bank one) P0327 Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

 

I have a 03 Camry v6 with p0325 i did the by pass and the code returnd a couple of days later. Ant thoughts would be appreciated.

 

you attached the bad # 1 sensor to both ECU pins?

Of course then you'd expect both bad knock sensor codes P0330 / P0325 , makes no sense you get just the one if you've done the mod correctly. You can always replace both sensors if they're both bad, but you need a new wiring harness too. Double check wires and pins, I hope you made a mistake.

 

@Mgmartin @tedmich - This should be pretty easily fixable with a combo crimper, some spare insulated wiring, splices, and big roll of electrical tape.

If accidently wiring the incorrect input to the ecu pin, you can strip the wiring 6"ish back up the line on BOTH knock sensors wires, then splice them together. You will need to wrap insulate the splice extremely well to prevent interference. There is literally 50+ feet of electrical tape wrapped around mine just on the interior splice. Its 1/2 inch thick lol.

This basically sets up the knock sensor outputs in a crossover prior to reaching the ecu. This will allow you to run two functional knock sensors at the same time (doesn't matter which one triggers a code, if either one does it will pull timing anyway), or either bad knock sensor with either good knock sensor - the ecu sees the same thing if you crossover the output wiring and leave the pins as is.

I've been running like that for over 2 years without any difficulty beyond figuring out I needed a crapton of electrical tape to prevent interference.

I also recently disconnected my main knock sensor harness and relocated a new one to the engine mount using my own wiring and just the pigtail that plugs into the main engine harness. Due to the crossover splice prior, the ecu gets signals sent to both pins.

 

I also recently disconnected my main knock sensor harness and relocated a new one to the engine mount using my own wiring and just the pigtail that plugs into the main engine harness. Due to the crossover splice prior, the ecu gets signals sent to both pins.

Could I see this setup? I've been chasing knock sensors for a while now; replaced sensors(received bad new sensors, only buy OEM sensors), so I installed the old ones with a new wire and found my engine does truly have a knock around 4,000 Rpm but it is only around then. Obviously, it is not good to have a knock but I plan on rebuilding the engine in few years so till then I'm just gonna send it. I'm gonna splice sensor 2 with sensor 1 but if sensor 1 goes I want a backup plan lol.

 

Hi there, recently my 2005 XV30 Camry V6 throws out this P0330 code, and returns really bad gas mileage...

Do you guys know which ECU connector should I start with if I wish to do this bypass trick on the Gen5 1MZ-FE? Many thanks.

 

Just hope all of you that do this hack are using premium fuel. Should the 1MZ-FE knock on the bad sensor bank, with nothing now to trim timing, you could easily damage rod bearings or worse. I guess that is a risk one is willing to take to save some money. Just be aware.

 

the only bad performance was when car threw CEL and fully retarded timing then refused to go into OD. I do run 91 octane always so no downside for me.

 

Great, now all you have to do is make sure you run good enough fuel so that the engine does not destroy itself, since with no knock sensors it can not defend itself against poor octane fuel anymore.

 

1mzfe knock sensors are terrible, Toyota went with a radically different design in the next gen for a reason. Many relocate them to way off the block with no downside. Functional knock sensors give marginally better performance /emissions and mileage but a faulty one sucks the life out of the car IMHO. You still have one left to sense knock and the heads are connected.

 

I ca’t think of a reason it wouldn’t. The Sienna’s wiring might be a bit different, but the idea is the same; using one knock sensor to feed both ECU inputs.

 

CAMRY FEDERAL AUTO ECM 1MZ-FE SCHEMATIC

 

I'm running on 21-year old knock sensors and each time I see this topic I wonder when I'll have to deal with them. It's great to see this work-around!
So, why couldn't we buy a new knock sensor and plug it (or cut and splice) into its appropriate wires but just wrap it and zip-tie it somewhere under the hood? Does it need to get a "normal" engine vibration to keep the ECM from retarding the timing?

 

my friend has a knock sensor code for knock sensor 2. She has an 03 Camry LE with a 1MZ-FE engine. This ECU is pretty hard to find any info on. Just need to find the pin out on it so I can bypass the #2 sensor. Any help is appreciated. I see those same Black and Clear shielded wires but have no idea what they are, can’t find a diagram anywhere.

 

Pull the ECU and remove the covers. The circuit board connector pins will be marked what they are. You want to find “KNK1” & “KNK2”.

 

Hi all, i am in the same issue here with my Toyota Camry V6 3L 2005 1MZ-FE with P0330 code. i have been through all threads on this forum i can find but my issue is that the ECU i have is 89666-06420 MA 175200-9062. This ECU has 4 pin connectors. i am trying to find the KNK1 and KNK2 wires. does anybody have wiring information for this model. the one mentioned above is different to mine.
thanks
Vish

 

Do exactly what BMR stated in the above post. The printed circuit board has the pin outs labeled at the signal out terminals. Might need a magnifying glass depending on your eyesight. Make sure you remove all power before disconnecting the ECM connectors.

 

This is the 5SFE example - it has “KNK” only, as it’s an inline 4 cylinder engine, hence 1 bank. You don’t need to remove the PCB from its casing as the terminals are visible with the top cover removed. The 4 screws might have tamper-proof sealing on them so ensure your JIS screwdriver is firmly seated in the screw head so as to not strip the heads. Also follow all ESD handling precautions as you could destroy your ECM if static voltage were to discharge inside the cabinet.

 

So as suggested I pulled apart the ECU box to see PCB. It seems that toyota must have decided not to name any of their pins on the board and hide it with the cover. I am attaching some photos here.
Any suggestions?

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your photos don't show the reverse side of the connector pin-outs. Are they on the underside or reverse of the board?

 

The Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) does have the connector pin outs in their diagrams. Honestly, if you ever intend to work on your car more than a couple/several times, it is well worth going on eBay and purchasing a complete FSM set with the EWD's for your car. The fairly high price of a set can be recouped in ONE visit to a garage where you have to pay for someone else to fix your car, because you don't have this information available to you.

 

I do have Hynes manual purchased when i bought the car. But it doesn't have the information I was after in this case. I will buy FSM as well.

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The FSM is readily available online for prices ranging from high to negligible: having a bound set printed onto tree derived carbohydrate foam is bit silly IMHO.

 

Not believing in paper is definitely silly IMHO! Best of luck in yer repair partner! TN is nearly free from all political discourse and I’m pretty sure we all want to keep it that way. We’re all here to just fix cars, man.

 

Thanks for your inputs. I think i have solved the problem. I am attaching some photos here for future reference. My knock1 sensor is black cable and knock 2 sensor cable is Grey/Clear. Both cables are thicker than other cables. Another user supplied the ECU pin drawings. I have done about 200kms so far without ECL coming on.

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