i call it a start inhibit switch on the clutch pedal

 

...been trying to find this part on Rockauto but unable to locate the proper part subheading. Even tried Autozone with no luck.

 

Wouldn't be surprised if it is available only at dealer. Did you try cleaning the switch with electrical contact cleaner? If the contacts are dirty that might due the trick. Another possibility is worn starter solenoid contacts. If so they are inexpensive and easily replaced.

 

lol just cross the two wires going into that switch...:thumbup: thats my fix

 

Gave that a thought...but saving as a last resort. Gonna try the suggestion to clean the switch first or see if I can find one without going to the dealership.

I was starting to think that maybe the clutch pedal needs adjusting since I have to make sure it is pressed all the way to the floor for the engine to start.

 

GO TO THE WRECKERS. Where I got my brake light switch

 

dont jump it, some guy one day will reach into the window to start it and it will take off

 

only if you don't use the e-brake and leave it in gear
even then it will only go a little bit forward and then stall, trust me my mom started my jetta one time with it in gear and me standing infront of it, with your theory I would have been really hurt, it only startled me lol

 

one of our MR2's (remote start) took out an entire 2-car garage door.... and then drove through the garage and hit the back wall....

 

i have chased several cars that some kid jumped

 

lol am i just missing out? do people brake into cars and crank them over in gear alot?

 

yep, your missing out

 

It works every time if I hold the clutch pedal firmly against the floor. I wonder if adjusting the clutch pedal (due to clutch wear) would make it easier to depress the clutch pedal and start the car...

 

Dont adjust the clutch pedal...it pushes on a hydrolic cylnder to operate your clutch. Even if u adjust it slightly,you can still end up burning up the clutch and start getting a slipping disk when it warms up.Its not anything like a cable clutch,the hydrolic pressure self adjusts to the wear of your clutch...just as the same for how your brakes operate. Replace the switch or wire it together...if u start messing with the pedal u possibly could end up spending hundreds of dollars in clutch work instead of 50 on a single switch. If its acting goofy its a bad switch,replace it. Ive seen it come through our shop one too many times...trust me.

 

If its acting goofy its a bad switch,replace it. Ive seen it come through our shop one too many times...trust me.

I trust you. I think that my foot gets a little lazy when starting the car by not pushing the clutch pedal all the way down. Gonna keep in mind to replace the switch. Was wondering what the part was called so I could do a little more research on it and order it online...

 

Its called the clutch start switch...or the neutral start switch...and u will probably only find one at the dealer,or at the recycling yards(chancing that it could be faulty as well... no guarantees there). Possibly might even be a faulty starter,but from how u describe playing with the clutch to get it to fire up...sounds more like the switch as i experienced with my corolla a few years back...then it completely gave up so i bypassed it til i replaced it.

 

actually the clutch system doesn't "self adjust" like a brake system....

in a brake system, the wear amount of the pads determines how far out the caliper cylinders sit, which ultimately will affect how much fluid is in the master cylinder.... or as you call it, "self adjusting".

in a clutch.... the pressure plate never moves in/out, as it is firmly bolted to the flywheel.... the hydraulic system is a stand alone system and moves the clutch fork, which ultimately moves the pressure plate.

If the pedal is loose up to where the clutch fork isn't sitting right against the pressure plate or if the pedal is loose before any pressure is applied through the hydraulic system then you should adjust the pedal.

generally, however, the hydraulic system doesn't need to have anything adjusted once working properly, as there is enough travel in the master/slave cylinders to thoroughly wear out the clutch.

If you believe the clutch/pp are still new/good condition, then check the hydraulic system for leaks as well.

 

I was just looking at a drawing of the clutch hydraulic system on Autozone. Maybe I should check the fluid level. The site also mentions bleeding the system (if lines opened) and adjusting the clutch. This suggests that the clutch is adjustable.

I have been looking for a hard copy of the service manual with no luck. Any ideas on finding one?

Thanks.... KC

 

Re-read what I wrote above..... if you have an understanding of hydraulics then you'll understand how the hydraulic system works when looking at the diagram..... it's very simple. Again, as I wrote (unless the hydraulic system is leaking) if the pedal is loose (ie you can press in the clutch pedal and it moves before the slave cylinder starts to visually move) then you can adjust the pedal. If the pedal moves and the slave cylinder moves, do not adjust it.

Just went out and looked at the clutch fluid. Never noticed it tucked away in the corner back by the firewall. The fluid uses "brake fluid" and looking at this brownish sludge I am wanting to get it cleaned out and replaced with new fluid. The fluid level is full. What is the best way of replacing the fluid in this system?

Changing the fluid alone can make it feel like it's been adjusted.... "brake fluid" is just dot 3 hydraulic fluid... called brake fluid because it's used mainly in brakes... but it's really just a hydraulic fluid.

Much like other hydraulic fluids, they can be worn down and have water deposits. When this occurrs, the worn down fluid (or water) can be depressed with pressure, unlike a hydraulic fluid. This in turn makes the hydraulic system less effective when whatever it is pushing against (in this case the pressure plate) pushes back (physics.... opposite and equal forces...). In short, good hydraulic fluid doesn't compress and bad fluid (that has air or water in it) will.

You can swap it out much like bleeding a brake system. Easiest way is to get a 2 foot chunk of rubber hose, connect it to the bleeder nipple, run the hose upwards (so that air cannot move back down the hose into the bleeder nipple) then down towards a bucket. Make sure the master cylinder is full (there's a variety of ways to keep it full... I like to use a water bottle with an open/close top, filled with brake fluid, opened up and flipped upside down into the master cylinder.... you never have to double check the master cylinder as the water bottle will always refill what empties out of the master cylinder), open the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and start pumping the pedal. Pump slowly and mythotically until the fluid is clean coming out of the rubber hose and looks clean in the master cylinder. Close the brake bleeder nipple, remove the rubber hose, and put the cap to the master cylinder back on.

 

Just went out and looked at the clutch fluid. Never noticed it tucked away in the corner back by the firewall. The fluid uses "brake fluid" and looking at this brownish sludge I am wanting to get it cleaned out and replaced with new fluid. The fluid level is full. What is the best way of replacing the fluid in this system?

 

toyotaspeed90...great tutorial and after looking over the drawings I understand now. I appreciate the physics aspect of fluid compression back in the days when I studied Pascal's Principle...especially with the problems of water in the hydraulic system. With the fluid looking like puke, along with the probable age, I would not be surprised if the "brake fluid" used in the system had absorbed water over time. This is what made me start thinking about flushing the fluid out with new.

The mechanical nature of adjusting the clutch pedal did cause me more thought since I did not have a proper manual to refer to and the Autozone website did not address the clutch pedal and linkage (which has an annoying squeek that can be heard when the stereo is off).

My learning curve was then dependent on marrying up the the mechanical and hydraulic parts of the clutch system and visualizing how the two work in concert with one another.

By the way, I am still reaching deadends on finding a paper service manual...

 

By the way, I am still reaching deadends on finding a paper service manual...

I got my official factory service manual used on eBay. Simply search for 1990 Corolla Manual. Do not balk at the price. It's worth it. The thing is about the size of a phone book and incredibly thorough.

 

not really worth it.... the only time I use any manuals with my cars are when I'm looking for things like timing and torque specs for the headbolts..... and I look in the manual because i'm too lazy to come up to the computer and look it up online.....

if you have a good mechanical sense and are not afraid to turn a wrench, then these cars are incredibly easy to work on

 

"if you have a good mechanical sense and are not afraid to turn a wrench, then these cars are incredibly easy to work on"

I find this to be true so far...and when I was doing the brakes, timing belt and water pump the info I need most was torque specs. I have a service manual for our 83 civic and occasionally I learn something new browsing thru the book.