What you’ll need to do, is plug the power window switch in. Then lower the window incrementally until your holes align to insert the hardware. That’s the only way to do it.

edit : put a rag under the glass where the clip broke to prevent breaking. Need a second pair of hands to guide the glass.

 

What you’ll need to do,

i'm in for the night so no new pics. i didn't take pic with plastic removed, this early pic with plastic i believe the front regulator clip/bolt access hole is about the green dot. i can run hook up switch, i don't think i tried to go down, only up. with the red side window out can the window break? this is the only way? push down on top of window while another makes quick clicks to power button down. or are we supposed to try to push window into track while pushing downwards? or is the only goal to give me access to the green access hole to remove both clips? (thank you for reply!)
do you think the regulator is good? all i have to do is put window back in track and silicone clip to window!

 

That green dot is not large enough for a socket extension. The access point is where the large cutout under the door lock. There’s a metal cover and once removed that is where you will access the bolts for the window glass on the regulator. The front bolt access is closer to the middle of the door frame.

Here’s what I would do. Locate the bolts for the window regulator. With a friend holding the window, unbolt the regulator and support it with your other hand so it doesn’t break the other clip.

 

Here’s what I would do. Locate the bolts for the window regulator.

that's a good idea pulling the entire regulator bolts to see if i can lower/move to get access to the two regulator clip bolts. even if i can't move the regulator/window up/down i think i can push it outward (within the door cavity) and maybe enough space to reach a 10mm ratchet in. now i have positive motivation THANKS! (first i'm going to try if the window motor will go down just a quick touch of button if not then unfasten regulator.)

 

putting question on top. does the regulator horizontal track need to be silicone lubed since i have the door panel off? i did lube both tracks. (the clip is black on top, white on bottom, i used both terms)

it appears my only issue was the window came off track. investigating online lack of lubrication in the window tracks. i would suggest everyone open their windows then silicone with straw as best as you can into the tracks. i think 18 years of sludge and dry tracks caused my window to fall out of track. i didn't need to unfasten the regulator, i just quick touches to button to go down and got the regulator arm aligned with door panel access hole as 75aces instructed. loosened forward bolt/clip to window. (the rear was clip separated from window see above). pulled out window. pulled out detached clip, cleaned old silicone and other black hardened once liquid looking material from clip and window. i'm guessing the factory first sprayed the glass with a black liquid that dried which then adheres to the silicone better. you can clearly see 2 diff black materials on the window/clips. replaced cleaned clip, replaced window near to regulator clips and blue tape window, silicone white clip, remove tape to lower window into silicone/clip. easier with 2 people (in the last image it looks i could have used more silicone which i would have noticed better with helper). since the next day would be 28F, then continuous rain, cold, freezing for 6 months i did not do any testing. i got the window securely raised/shut and i'm not touching anything until summer. i'm so grateful for 75aces help and it's closed so the car doesn't get soaked, molded, freezing while driving...

 

I didn’t lube mine. The issue I had, the window glass X brace bent on me. Went to junkyard to replace mine.

 

do u have a recommended glue? plastics can be fickle without exact glue. thank you!
i broke the door speaker cover female clip. i pulled the wrong direction.

 

The damage is minimal. White clip should be able to lock in place still.

You can widen the gap and cut flush. Then use scrap plastic and super glue. Use gorilla glue. I’ve used it a few times and seems to have more strength than Krazy glue.

Or cruise your local junkyards and find a pair for replacement.

 

The damage is minimal. White

just wanted to thank 75aces, i waited to test the fix back during rainy season 2023, i left window in up fully closed in case it failed and didn't want to work more on it in the cold/rain. waited until summer to test window and it works fine now, up... down... multiple times moves smoothly, it's fixed. silicone lube windows should be put on 3 year maintenance list. a squirt of lube into the window tracks compared to dealer wanting $500 to fix. a bunch of friends i mentioned this to and they all said they have windows now sticking, slow and never heard about lube window tracks. i've noticed the rear driver window which i did (try) to shoot lube down into the track while window was open, it's started to slightly chatter/shake briefly. i'm going to lube it again. surmising what happens: window mechanism, rubber window rain seals/strips, the track... get dry, gunk create resistance and wear out motor and the window clip breaks free from window. (it's amazing how sophisticated humans have become, there are literally 100K parts that need to function perfectly on a vehicle!

 

i finally put the black cover on. it was difficult to push onto white plug so i pulled out the white plug and placed it into position on black cover then put cable lock on then push cover into aligned holes in metal door.

 

Is there a recommended glue / adhesive to glue the window back onto that lower clip? To glue the black tacky stuff on the bottom of the window to the window lift mechanism.

I used RTV, let it cure for a week, and it failed pretty quickly again. Passenger power window switch is currently disconnected... the bars in the door are a little bent at this point, too. Really frustrating maintenance issue, I've kind of given up on it but it's annoying and dangerous not to have an operable window.

 

What type/brand of RTV did you use? There are different types.

 

Just replace the regulator.

 

I got two Dorman window regulators from RA. Clean, fresh clear grease in the channels, seemed beefier than the OEM window regulators. I removed the motors from the OEM and they bolted right onto the Dorman ones. BOTH of the original OEM regulators were bent.

Windows now go weeeee/wooooo just like they're supposed to. Currently waiting for the 3M epoxy stuff to fully cure before I test the lower / raise mechanism... and then replace the window weatherstripping.

 

Ok, I'll grab a new window regulator (and related parts, will check the diagrams) on my next RA order and I can use some polyurethane Silaflex construction adhesive to glue that thing in there tight. The RTV I used was probably a great brand but was probably from a misc adhesive lot from a local auction so probably old.

 

is a pro and does the job correctly. for me it was rainy season, work outside, wanted quick solution and i just glued back the clip and it's been a year okay. it looked like stuff could go wrong replacing the entire regulator.

 

Ya my choice would be high quality PU as you mentioned or Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker which is a type of RTV.. Bath type silicone won't cut it...............old or not. PU is basically my only choice now for anything outdoors.

 

I would use a super glue to adhere the tab back into place and allow a cure time of 24 hours. Super glue is effective so as long as it’s not going to easily fracture.

 

I dunno, super glue (CA) generally is kind of brittle in practice. That said you're not adhering directly to the glass since it has that black pad/coating on the glass in the mount area. Obviously your mileage may vary in your location. I'll try the PU and report back. We have 30+ degree temperature swings year round and lots of sun/heat. "California Car, ran when parked.

 

Somewhat related, was there a recall regarding the window regulator? I know there was a recall for the switches catching fire and i remember seeing something about the window popping out of the lifring mechanism too. But when I searched my VIN / year, nothing came up. I'm guess I'm grasping at straws to not have to work on the window again myself. Not sure if it's worth it to bring to a mechanic, they will likely be annoyed at the job at least as much as me.

 

I think it was a TSB more than a recall. The information I recall was that the glass bolts would vibrate out of the threaded hole and cause the glass to shatter when rolling down the window.

Why I was suggesting to just replace the regulator. Mine went out on a 2004 corolla. When the regulator was raised, the thin metal x bar bent and tilted the glass towards the mirror and the top corner would snap in place. This only impacted 2003 - 2004 MY.

 

Cool, thanks for that. I'll read up on the TSB as well as check out as much info as possible regarding working inside the door. It has been one of my least favorite aspects of car maintenance so far.

 

I found the TSB on the window bolts. A few nice tips on lowering the window a specific amount (65mm) and marking with tape to allow easy access to the bolts. I need one regulator for the passenger side and the TSB has a nice working procedure all diagrammed out. Thanks to TSB Search for archiving this so I don't need to subscribe to the Toyota TIS system for it. https://www.tsbsearch.com/Toyota/80A

 

I found the TSB on the window bolts. A few nice tips on lowering the window a specific amount (65mm) and marking with https://www.tsbsearch.com/Toyota/80A

this i really nice, thanks for posting! i wish i'd seen this before i did it!