DIY - 5S-FE Fuel Schrader Valve Retrofit

insightbrewery · Feb 5, 2017

Hey guys, this mod is easy-peasy, it replaces your stock fuel filter banjo bolt with a Schrader valve so you can use readily-available gauges to check your fuel pressure!

Special thanks goes to @Stretch86, who originally did this on his car. The replacement valve was for a 7.3 Powerstroke I think.

As always, you do this at your own risk, neither myself nor Toyota Nation will be held responsible for your shenanigans.

Parts:

- 17mm socket
- 11/16" deep socket
- 7/16" box wrench
- torque wrench
- M12 x 1.25 banjo bolt with 1/8" fuel pressure takeoff, Russell P/N 640700 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231925233035?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT)
- 1/8" NPT flare to 1/4" male brass Schrader valve Riffraff Diesel P/N GZ-13-005 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/252592095821?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT)
NOTE: Do NOT use a Schrader valve meant for air or A/C; the internal seal will not resist gasoline and the valve will fail. Use a Schrader valve meant for fuel ONLY.
- Hylomar Universal Blue non-setting sealant or equivalent, Hylomar P/N HUB003 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/172211644418?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT)

insightbrewery · Feb 5, 2017

Start here!

OK, you start by removing the airbox top and intake piping so you have access to the fuel filter (not strictly necessary, but makes it much easier for a couple minutes of work). pic1 shows the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter; take it out, 17mm. Notice that the fuel line sits in the bracket on the filter; don't forget this later. pic2 shows the stock bolt with a sealing washer; I only had one in there. Make sure you take the old one(s) out, they are crush-type gasketing and should be replaced.

pic3 shows the parts. From left to right on top, we have the banjo bolt sealing washers (came with the new bolt), new banjo bolt, Schrader valve, and valve cap. On the bottom we have the Hylomar.

pic4 shows the valve with Hylomar applied. I tend to choose Hylomar in applications like this (it's very good where fuel is concerned, comes to us from the world of Rolls-Royce aircraft engines) instead of Teflon tape (always a bit worried about pieces coming off and clogging an injector), but I suppose you could use tape if you want. Also like the color, almost like hydrated copper sulfate crystals. Pretty.

pic5 shows the rig I used to tighten the valve in the banjo bolt. It's a flare fitting, so it won't seat all the way and will keep feeling tighter and tighter; I left 4 threads exposed, felt nice. Hex on the banjo bolt is 11/16", and 7/16" on the valve. Note: it'll only go in one way, but make sure the valve stem is facing outward, obviously.

EDIT: Instead of tightening the valve and banjo bolt outside, install the banjo bolt and torque it to 22 ft-lbs. Then, thread in the Schrader valve and torque it to 17 ft-lbs. "Four threads exposed" will push out the non-setting Hylomar and cause a leak in several hundred miles (not sure if the same with Teflon tape, but probably not).

Torquing it this way, you can use Teflon tape (careful not to let it shred into the fuel stream), or Hylomar.

insightbrewery · Feb 5, 2017

You should have sealing washers both above and below the fuel line (face the curved die-cut side towards the line on both sides), then put the banjo bolt through. Use your 11/16" deep socket and torque wrench to tighten it to 22 ft-lbs, and you're good to go (pic6)! HTH

BMR · Feb 5, 2017

Nice! Added this to the sticky.

Stretch86 · Feb 11, 2017

I was gonna do a right up with pics but when the time came to do it i just wanted to get it done. I ended up using teflon tape when did it and as long as dont go past threads on end it should be fine.

luvmy98camry · Feb 20, 2017

Questions:

1. Can you recommend a Schrader valve meant for fuel only available on eBay/AMZN?

2. "Hylomar Universal Blue Non-Setting Sealant Silicone Jointing Compound - 010098" is out of stock. I have Permatex Red and Black RTV.

Can I use either of those instead? Would it be safe to use them? Or are they a BIG NO NO in this application?

3. I would rather not have to get imperial sockets (11/16", and 7/16" on the valve) just for this job: are there metric alternatives? This is not a big deal but would be convenient
Did you chose these sizes because they were easy to find/you had them at hand or are these imperial sizes pretty much what we have available?

This is a great thread: on our old cars, the fuel pump (and filter) has gone 200k+ mi minimum. Bound to fail sometime!

insightbrewery · Feb 20, 2017

1. A fuel test port Schrader valve for a Ford 7.3 Powerstroke will work. The example eBay listing I posted is still good, $3.49
2. Search the Hylomar P/N I listed? Ideally you want to use urethane-based jointing compounds, not RTV. Get the Hylomar, you'll love it. Or use Teflon tape like Stretch did.
3. Yes, and they were easy to find. I would have preferred metric as well. If you find any let me know, I'll update the thread.

EDIT: Forgot to add. The Russell P/N seems to be the most common fuel pressure take-off, this is a common mod on Hondas as well. It's an English socket because that bar stock was probably readily available. HTH

davemac2 · Feb 22, 2017

can you instead replace the banjo bolt at the front fuel rail for a 1mz fe? It would make testing fuel pressure a little easier.

insightbrewery · Feb 22, 2017

Wanna try and report back? :wink:

insightbrewery · May 31, 2017

Update: well, it started leaking. Not the fault of the Hylomar, more like I didn't torque down the Schrader valve enough. I decided to carefully use Teflon tape this time around; also did this on a second 5S-FE, and used Hylomar there, torqued down, no issues. Updated original post to this effect.

Sport2013 · Jun 8, 2017

Is this also good to clean out the injectors with a prof machine? I don't really trust the bottle stuff?

insightbrewery · Jun 8, 2017

Dunno what you mean. I don't trust the bottle stuff either, so your best bet would be to pull the injectors and send them off to a shop like Witchunter Performance to get cleaned and flow-tested. Or buy a set of already-cleaned/tested/reman'd OEM injectors from an eBay seller, sombody did this recently. Think it cost them $60 or thereabouts.

jayinc11 · Nov 20, 2017

Great info, thanx!

DIY - 5S-FE Fuel Schrader Valve Retrofit

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