take it to the dealership. in many cases, they warranty it just over 60K.

 

+1 Take it to the dealership that you normally bring your car in for service. When the dealership see that you have been a regular customer they usually honor the warranty as "good will" because it just went over 60k.

 

Use your 84 month/100,000 mile/$0 Toyota Platinum Warranty....

 

take it to dealer. sounds like something crazy is going on.

 

Are you sure you're pressing the brake pedal before you place you hand on the transmission gear selector? I don't see what the steering wheel has to do with releasing the shift lock. The steering wheel has it's own lock associated with the ignition cylinder, but it's not tied to the transmission shift lockout.

 

Are you sure you're pressing the brake pedal before you place you hand on the transmission gear selector? I don't see what the steering wheel has to do with releasing the shift lock. The steering wheel has it's own lock associated with the ignition cylinder, but it's not tied to the transmission shift lockout.

Yes that was the first thing I tried. I tried pressing the brake harder, then letting off the brake and reapply it.... nothing. The only thing that seems to help is moving the steering wheel. However, I can't be sure that is what is making it work, it could just be a timing issue and in the time it takes to move the wheel it's already unlocked. It just seems strange that it's worked more then once and reapplying the brake has never worked. So far restarting the car works every time but it can take several "reboots" before it will go in gear. And the thing with the AC was scary so I tend to wait a little while (sweating like crazy, wife getting mad... ) between restarts. The Toyota mystique is starting to wear off....

By the way... I also tried reseating the gas cap, last time I got gas I made sure I got that "click" as I tighened it. I was kinda hopeing it would be something simple like fuel preasure sensor... but no.

 

wow thats bad luck. i guess you just have to wait or leave it there for a week so they have a better chance of reproduction.

 

Next thing I'm going to check is the brake light switch. I may have the brake on but the system doesn't think I do. I'll have the wife check the brake lights next time it happens and see if they are on.

 

The defective Aisin U660E transmission is bad news out of the factory. They reported skipped gears and flared new off the production line, and as a direct result Consumer Reports dropped its recommendation for a few years. I don't think the entire U-series is as reliable as the older A-series.

I hope your dealer will honor it's replacement. You may have to talk to the true decision makers. Server manager or the Toyota 1-800 service center.

Let us know what Toyota does in your case.

Some times my 07 V6 LE won't go out of park. In some cases I can wiggle the wheel and get it to let me shift. In other cases I have to turn the key off and turn it back on. One time I did this three times and then the AC would not come back on and the amber light on the button for the rear window defrost blinked for about 10 seconds then the AC came back on. This all started about 90 miles after I turned over 60k (out of warranty). LOL !!!

Anyone know what is going on ?

 

Well a few taps to rattle the brake pedal seems to have fixed it. So I'm thinking it's the stop switch (brake light switch). It was either miss aligned or is intermittent. If the problem comes back I'll just replace it. However, the fact that I had to figure it out with no help from the service center at the dealership doesn't inspire confidence. I know that if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. The problem is I simply can't do everything myself !!

 

Some times my 07 V6 LE won't go out of park. In some cases I can wiggle the wheel and get it to let me shift. In other cases I have to turn the key off and turn it back on. One time I did this three times and then the AC would not come back on and the amber light on the button for the rear window defrost blinked for about 10 seconds then the AC came back on. This all started about 90 miles after I turned over 60k (out of warranty). LOL !!!

Anyone know what is going on ?

With no help from the dealer I found the problem. The battery was going bad. Replaced the battery and the problems went away. Here is a list of the symptoms.

1. Shifter gate lock won't operate so you can't shift.
2. AC won't come on right away and amber light blinks.
3. Remove won't lock the car untill after many tries.
4. iPod adapter not working right.
5. Final clue.. car gets hard to start, takes longer then normal.

I should have known.. all my OEM batteries have gone out in the third year just as summer ends or during the first cold snap. If lots of things stop working at once that require 12 volts (not 11.2 or 5.6 during starts) then get a new battery or get it checked.

This is an update for all those who posted or looked.

 

good thing you solve the problem. man the stupid mechanic couldn't figure that out.

 

Ouch. Did you check your neutral safety switch too? It may not hurt to get it looked at if it acts up again. But I'm glad the battery fixed it for now.

 

Everything works like new with the new battery. No more problems. Even the range of the remote is back to normal. Everything else was just symptoms caused by brownout (low voltage).

 

u should look into yellow or red top battery. I think those will last longer for you.

I had the yellow top in my XCamry. It never die on me. Makes my booster pack a useless dead weight in the trunk.

3 years is a bit too quick. Look into the warranty of the battery.. some warranty it up to 75months (6 years) and if it die sooner they will prorate it. That's like getting half price for a new battery.

 

I only keep a car 5 years so this one will last the rest of the time I have the car. Got an Interstate batt. at the Valvealine oil change place for $90 installed and it took all of 20 mins of my lunch hour. I'll take that...

 

It's strange that a weak battery can pull the alternator down below 13.5V or so.

 

I'm not sure what runs from the battery and what can run only from the alternator. However, it appears that a defective battery can cause a system wide brownout when the alternator is attempting to charge it, and I'm thinking it would be in charge mode all the time since the battery never reaches "charged" status.