I assume you did not get a pre-purchase inspection done? As for the codes, a seller can clear the codes or disconnect the battery to make the code go away for a sale, some codes do not return for quite some time. or no codes after they are all done going through their process an a problem only presents a check engine code now and then. or there was a problem and the previous owner jerry-rigged a temporary fix. Back in the old days, dealerships would sell cars with bad transmissions, they would put a bunch of sawdust in the fluid and it made the trans run normal for a short time, just long enough to get it off the lot.

Report back with the code.

Also can you make a recording of the sound and post it on youtube or somewhere else where we can hear it. Also, can you tell exactly what direction you hear it from, under the dash, behind you, in the floor? Any vibration with the sound? Does the car make a sound if you press on the gas while in the park or neutral and parked or only when going down the road?

But do not get too stressed just yet, might be something very minor.

I know in some situations you can get gurgling from the fuel tank, a clog in the line or a hole in the tank can cause gurgling or I have heard in some cars even a loose gas cap can cause it. With the car parked and running, walk around the car to the gas tank side and see if you can hear anything, have someon step on the gas and see. Check your fuel cap. A loose fuel cap can also throw a evap code check engine light. If your code is Evap, then I would think some kind of air leak in the fuel system, may just be a loose or bad gas cap.
Post back.

 

Updated above post with info on possible EVAP/ gas cap issue.

 

@TruckerI5

This was a reputable seller I bought it from. Not a big dealership but a good one. I don’t think this is on them. Not yet anyway. The car drives like a champ. Engine bay looks immaculate and is unbelievably quiet. Only has 111k Mike’s on it.

I’m going to stop by O’ Reilly’s tomorrow and see what the code is. As for the noise, it seems like it’s coming from very close to me. Sounds like it’s coming from from the dash, right behind my steering wheel. Thank you for the quick reply! I’ll check back tomorrow.

EDIT- I did just get gas today, so that is a possibility. My wife actually suggested that. I just went out and tightened it.

 

There is air in the coolant. Fill the overflow bottle completely. Drive for a while till hot.
Check it after it cools all the way.

 

Could be a coolant gurgle sound or the ac could make that sound as well if it's low

 

Turns out the engine light is an ignition coil. Can I do this myself, or should I pay someone? I generally like to fix things if I can.

As for the gurgling, still haven’t addressed that yet. I will top it off and see if that helps.

 

is it a 4 cyl or v6? if its a 4 cyl its a 10 second job if its v6, 10 second job unless its one of the 3 under the plenum

 

Almost positive it’s a 4 cylinder. So I can do it myself?

 

Yup. Just get a denso don't get any other brand especially the cheap aftermarket ones densos are the best for Toyota there oem

 

Thank you for the quick reply!

Couple more questions. Do I need a torque wrench for this, and how do I know which one needs replacing? Should I just replace them all at once? Also, if I do need a torque wrench, how many ft lbs? Tia

 

Nope it's just a 10mm bolt just tighten it gently so you don't damage the threads in valve cover it only requires 16 ft pounds so just a gentle tight like a cap on a Dr pepper bottle

 

Probably the most serious immediate problem would be coolant related - low coolant level or failing thermostat or water pump resulting either in coolant sloshing or localized boiling in the head. One would expect to hear this whether or not the car was moving - you might try lifting the hood and listening while revving the engine, it might not begin until the engine has warmed up a bit.

If it only occurs when the car is moving you might check for water that's gotten into places it shouldn't be, caused by either a leak or to plugged drains such as those associated with the inlet air plenum, sunroof, air conditioner, rocker panels, doors, or maybe the windshield seal.

 

Too add to the above post, only a pint down in the engine and it gurgles. Also It could be a flush was done and the air is still working out, ( it takes forever on these cars) just watch the level in the bottle. If you are adding after a week, it needs to be looked at.

 

Gurgling under acceleration could be a heater core. Hopefully not as that is a big job. Hopefully just air in the cooling system that needs to be purged.

 

So I have an update. (Sort of) I read online to turn the heat on and see what happens. Well, no heat comes out. At all. Just cool air. I also pushed the gas while it was in park right after I turned it on. You can definitely hear it as I accelerate. So am I totally f ed or what? I just bought this at 3.5 weeks ago. Does this sound like a heater core problem? Should I take it to a mechanic? I have a friend that can take a look at it. He’s a certified mechanic for many years. Please tell me I’m not screwed.

EDIT: should I still drive the car? I have another vehicle I can use while this one gets repaired. I don’t want to make this worse than it is. I generally don’t drive very far, and definitely don’t take it out of town.

 

make sure the coolant is full and the thermostat could be stuck open but first make sure coolat is full

 

The overflow is filled to the top. Drove it around town today and it didn’t budge. The car runs fine, no overheating, no coolant spilling out anywhere. I don’t get it. I guess I’ll take it to my mechanic friend and see what he thinks.

Side note- I ordered the ignition coil, should be here in a few days. Funny thing happened today. The engine light went away. Is this common? Will it go in and out? I bought the part so I may as well replace it.

 

Probably the thermostat. It seems to happen after coolant is drained and refilled. Not sure why that's the case, but it was my issue after replacing the water pump. I couldn't bleed the thing until I replaced the thermostat. It doesn't take long to bleed when everything is working properly.

 

just finished burping it. It didn’t work at all. Unless I don’t know what I’m doing. I mean it’s not rocket science. I contacted the dealership I bought it from, and they replied with:

“Heater core going bad on a Camry with only 110k miles is extremely rare so I would check the blend door actuator for the head/cold to make sure it is moving when switching to heater (most common cause on these cars and easy fix). There are 2 hoses that go to the heater core attached to the inner side wall of the car and to test the heater core you can touch the those pipes when car is warmed up to see if their tempratures are the same (warm) or not. If one is cold and the other is warm then its the core otherwise your core is good and most likely it the blend door not switching vents.”


@scubacat
@ToyotaFan95341
@ken2116
@TruckerI5
@delucat2
@Demoncow666

What’s my next move? TIA

 

This is why you keep going with one post. The last suggestion by the dealer is the next step. Rule out a clogged heatercore and check the blend door operation. Your noise is more than likely air in the heatercore or elsewhere. Drive it up on ramps to get the front higher than normal will help burp the air out.