Have you tried cleaning the inside of the sensor and the electrical contacts? I have had success in the past with just cleaning the sensor. You can also search the salvage yard for range listed below.

General	10/1989-10/1993	TOYOTA CELICA	AT180,ST18*	17-03: AIR CLEANER
Europe	10/1989-10/1993	TOYOTA CELICA	AT180,ST18*	17-03: AIR CLEANER

 

no I haven’t tried that but my plan was to do that while searching for a replacement.

is it really the same MAF on all ST-18*? I can see while googleing that there is a few diffeeent lookson the MAF’s 🤔

 

Yes, junkyard. Worth having spare parts around, so pick up other parts as well.

You can find the MAP diagnostic procedures here:
1990-1993 (Gen5) Toyota Celica BGB - Celicatech.com. Volume 1, MFI systems, Fuel System, Electronic Control.

(On the 5th gens, it's called a MAP sensor)

A good repair shop should be able to diagnose a component. In this case, a vacuum gauge/pump and a DC voltage generator. A good DC generator should be directly to the PIM on the wire harness as well (be careful, you can fry the ecu).

Before chasing above, check the signal at the wire harness and ecu. A poor source signal (5v) from the ecu or the return signal could cause same symptoms. These can be impacted by dirty connections, broken wires etc.

Also, check the vacuum hose and the jet port screwed into the intake manifold.

 

Make sure you are getting one with correct number. Other similar parts from other engine sizes (ie the 2.0 turbo gte) provide different signals back to the ecu.

 

Oops, we have been feeding you USA information. If you are Europe, then you have a 3SGTE engine. There are diagnostic procedures for the USA 3SGTE in the bgb site.

Use www.toyodiy.com to backtrack which model your part was also used in.

Since different MAPS send different signals, I haven't seen a posting showing interchange possibilities for MAP sensors. You might try research on a couple of other popular sites. alltrac.net is the forum of the USA 3SGTE group. The UK site of choice is celica-club.co.uk. Their model of choice was RC 3SGTE

 

Oops, we have been feeding you USA information. If you are Europe, then you have a 3SGTE engine. There are diagnostic procedures for the USA 3SGTE in the bgb site.

Use www.toyodiy.com to backtrack which model your part was also used in.

Since different MAPS send different signals, I haven't seen a posting showing interchange possibilities for MAP sensors. You might try research on a couple of other popular sites. alltrac.net is the forum of the USA 3SGTE group. The UK site of choice is celica-club.co.uk. Their model of choice was RC 3SGTE

Well i guess i could have given more info from the start as well.
so it is a 1992 ST-185 3S-GTE water-to-air in Japan known as GT-four RC but the export was known as Carlos sainz (CS) limited edition and i guess this is why some parts are rely hard to get a hold on and rely expensive even though 1500$ is just ridiculous.

Thanks alot for the bages guess i will have a look at them and i will see if i can get any clarity in if i can use any other sensor. Was trying to ask Toyota Sweden but didn't get any help there :/

 

Looks like this got off track somewhere. A 92 RC Carlos Sainz edition is related to the USDM All-Trac, sort of. But there are significant differences. The AFM the OP is looking for is in the attached exploded view diagram. This particular part was not used on USDM All-Tracs. CarMarka says they have it (although I think if you checked, they likely don't), here is their listing along with a few others:

• TOYOTA METER ASSY, INT | 22250-74260
• 2225074260 Sensor TOYOTA buy online at a good price
• Air Flow Meter Toyota Celica 197100-5021 22250-74260 2.0 16V | eBay

This air flow meter does not use a heated wire (as MAF's do), but rather uses a baffle that opens as air flow increases through it. Does yours have this baffle? If not, that will be a problem. If your AFM can be disassembled to a point where a replacement baffle can be installed, it may be possible other AFM's of that era could be used on yours.

If your baffle is there, and it moves freely, then it is possible someone changed the factory calibration setting (screw). Would need a picture of the top of yours to see if the cap/cover for this screw was removed. If that cover/cap is missing, its missing because someone removed it to get to this calibration screw. There is a way to get it back to a factory setting - I'd have to go look at the way this is done, but won't if your cap is still intact.

 

Looks like this got off track somewhere. A 92 RC Carlos Sainz edition is related to the USDM All-Trac, sort of. But there are significant differences. The AFM the OP is looking for is in the attached exploded view diagram. This particular part was not used on USDM All-Tracs. CarMarka says they have it (although I think if you checked, they likely don't), here is their listing along with a few others:

• TOYOTA METER ASSY, INT | 22250-74260
• 2225074260 Sensor TOYOTA buy online at a good price
• Air Flow Meter Toyota Celica 197100-5021 22250-74260 2.0 16V | eBay

This air flow meter does not use a heated wire (as MAF's do), but rather uses a baffle that opens as air flow increases through it. Does yours have this baffle? If not, that will be a problem. If your AFM can be disassembled to a point where a replacement baffle can be installed, it may be possible other AFM's of that era could be used on yours.

If your baffle is there, and it moves freely, then it is possible someone changed the factory calibration setting (screw). Would need a picture of the top of yours to see if the cap/cover for this screw was removed. If that cover/cap is missing, its missing because someone removed it to get to this calibration screw. There is a way to get it back to a factory setting - I'd have to go look at the way this is done, but won't if your cap is still intact.

Thanks for the input. well the links you sent i have seen all but the first.
The ebay link is for something that is not available and the other one is 1000$+ and i don't think it is worth that much.
The first one is still a bit expensive but i guess okey.

This is how the engine-bay is looking and a closer image on the AFM.
The baffle you are referring to is the moving part within the AFM? if so it is moving nice and easy i was cleaning it yesterday and after that it actually had idle but not that good and it felt it was lacking power when accelerating.
Where is the Screw you are referring to and i can have a look for it

 

The screw I was referencing is within the red circle of the edit picture I have attached. It is below that hose (view partially blocked), and it has a cap on it, so you can't see the screw. That is a good thing, meaning it wasn't altered. Best leaving it like that - don't take the cap off.

That said, in looking at your engine compartment, I see you have what is called a "cold air intake". Such a poor name of such a conversion. The air being taken in is coming from the engine compartment, a good deal warmer than the original setup that pulled are from just behind the front bumper. You also have some non-OEM changes made to the air delivery system after the cold air intake filter element. I would suggest you pay very close attention to all the ducting between the AFM and the turbo, and between the turbo and the throttle body. If there is a slight leak, especially between the turbo and throttle body, it will cause engine run-ability problems. On one of our two ST185's, there was a none-noticeable leak at the hose connection to the turbo on the pressure side. Couldn't hear it, couldn't feel it (was on the back side) - also had an idle problem with that engine. In working all the hose fittings, the engine sound changed with touching that hose. Took off the non-factory band clamps and that hose, put new original Toyota band clamps on plus a new Toyota hose section, got them really snug and tight, and the engine purred like a kitten. See attached pic for that particular hose and clamp change we had to make. Judging by what I see in your picture what was changed in the air delivery hose sections, yours looks like it could have the same issues with some air leaks.

Why air leaks cause problems is the AFM should be reading the air quantity getting to the throttle body, and your fuel injection quantity is based on this. If you have a leak between your AFM and turbo (vacuum side), the AFM is outputting a lower air flow than is actually getting to the throttle body, so you would run lean. If the air leak is between the turbo and the throttle body (pressure side), your AFM is outputting an air flow that is higher than is actually getting to the throttle body, so you would be running rich. Doesn't take much.

 

Yes some one have trimmed it and i'm not sure how well that is done only know it was done more than 10 years ago since it has been standing for the past 10 years.
Will have a look for air leaks and check. will try to upload a movie but the engin sounds rely good at least.
also got a hint about ecu and Idle air controlit is a common issue from what i got told on another forum.

 

I would not say the ECU and idle air control are common issues. ECU's can have capacitor failures. Idle air control is pretty robust. Have you checked your ECU for any fault codes? If the engine doesn't idle, it may have a fault code. Of course, you disconnected your AFM at least once, so it should have that code sitting in there because of a disconnected harness. Maybe clear all your codes and see what comes back.

Why did you change your oil pump? Were you doing that as part of a timing belt replacement job?

 

well I was thinking about that with faultcode I saw there was a way to read them by doing somthing in the engine bay? But how do I remove them?

well to do a long story short it is not my car but my father in law’s. He got it from he’s son with a broken camaxel. After that replacement 10 years ago the oil pump was change to make sure that didn’thave anything to do with the cam axel was what I was told and after that it had issues with oil pressure and was left in the garage for 10 years...
A few weeks ago we brought it to a workshop to have a look at it. The tried to start it and found out that the starter was not working and when it started it was leaking from the oil pump so they swapped that and they got oil pressure but the oil pressure lamp was still on so they said it is oil pressure sensor. And the ideling issue they said it did not idle at all but if you disconnected the AFM it did idle but had no power.

so we brought it home since they could not find a new AFM.
After cleaning the AFM it does idle but there is things to take a look at obviously...

is there a way to share videos in the forum?

 

Assume you mean cam shaft (not cam axle). If you did mean cam axle, tell me what that is.

Story doesn't make sense. Cam shaft broke - it was replaced and at the same time, the oil pump was replaced just in case the cause of the cam shaft failure was an oil pump. But after this work was done, the oil pressure light came on (at times at least), so the car was left in the garage the next 10 years. So now you put another new oil pump in it, and are still getting the oil pressure warning light to come on, and you are having idle speed problems.

Given the engine at least runs with whatever is going on, why didn't your mechanic remove the oil pressure switch, and put a gauge on the block port to get real oil pressure readings on a gauge? That's pretty important. And, if you actually installed the correct oil pump, if you really do have low oil pressure (not a defective switch), it is possible the oil pump is just fine - you may have significant bearing clearances on your cam shaft bearings in the head, potential rod and main bearing wear causing too high of clearances also (although with rod bearings having been worn, you typically would have a knock sound coming from the engine).

I would suggest that, if you want to get this car up and running again, you attack and solve one problem at a time. I would get the oil pressure issue understood and corrected first, if it were me.

 

Assume you mean cam shaft (not cam axle). If you did mean cam axle, tell me what that is.

Story doesn't make sense. Cam shaft broke - it was replaced and at the same time, the oil pump was replaced just in case the cause of the cam shaft failure was an oil pump. But after this work was done, the oil pressure light came on (at times at least), so the car was left in the garage the next 10 years. So now you put another new oil pump in it, and are still getting the oil pressure warning light to come on, and you are having idle speed problems.

Given the engine at least runs with whatever is going on, why didn't your mechanic remove the oil pressure switch, and put a gauge on the block port to get real oil pressure readings on a gauge? That's pretty important. And, if you actually installed the correct oil pump, if you really do have low oil pressure (not a defective switch), it is possible the oil pump is just fine - you may have significant bearing clearances on your cam shaft bearings in the head, potential rod and main bearing wear causing too high of clearances also (although with rod bearings having been worn, you typically would have a knock sound coming from the engine).

I would suggest that, if you want to get this car up and running again, you attack and solve one problem at a time. I would get the oil pressure issue understood and corrected first, if it were me.

Yes of corse i ment cam shaft just bad translation it is called "cam axel" in Swedish.
Well the story don't add up to me either this is just what i was told.
The thing is that the engin was running 10 years ago and it is running today and sounds rely nice so i think the cam is fixed correctly. there was obesely something not right with the oil pump change since the mechanic said it was spraying oil from it when tehy started it up.
They also gave a price for changing the oil pressure sensor but since they also said the MAF was not functioning and that they cant find it we figured lets take it home and have a look if we can figure out the issue with the idling that they said was caused by the MAF

But yes maybe it is a good idé to first do the thing we know for sure with the pressure sensor.

 

Unless you erased the DTCs after your first disconnected your AFM - that code 31 will be present (because by disconnecting the wiring harness to the AFM, you created an open circuit). So that code, if you did not erase the codes after your last AFM wiring harness disconnect, means nothing. Also, DTC 21, in my USDM ST185 service manual, one of the first things to check in air leaking into the induction system. That's also what I stated in an earlier post regarding that potential. So I wouldn't yet suggest you look for a replacement O2 sensor, because your symptoms to me indicate a leak in your air induction system, and there are two indicators now for that (how your engine idles and a DTC for the O2 sensor indicating the induction system is the first place to look).

I noticed you oil pressure warning light never went out in the video. In all honesty, get that problem understood and resolved first. If you have some kind of oil pressure issue, and you are spending all your time starting and stopping an engine with an oil pressure issue, it soon won't make any difference what you find out about the AFM - your engine may seize up. Again, not my car, but in my process, oil pressure is far more critical than you AFM right now - so seek to understand that issue and resolve it first - then move on to your AFM.

But your process is up to you. I can only suggest.

 

Unless you erased the DTCs after your first disconnected your AFM - that code 31 will be present (because by disconnecting the wiring harness to the AFM, you created an open circuit). So that code, if you did not erase the codes after your last AFM wiring harness disconnect, means nothing. Also, DTC 21, in my USDM ST185 service manual, one of the first things to check in air leaking into the induction system. That's also what I stated in an earlier post regarding that potential. So I wouldn't yet suggest you look for a replacement O2 sensor, because your symptoms to me indicate a leak in your air induction system, and there are two indicators now for that (how your engine idles and a DTC for the O2 sensor indicating the induction system is the first place to look).

I noticed you oil pressure warning light never went out in the video. In all honesty, get that problem understood and resolved first. If you have some kind of oil pressure issue, and you are spending all your time starting and stopping an engine with an oil pressure issue, it soon won't make any difference what you find out about the AFM - your engine may seize up. Again, not my car, but in my process, oil pressure is far more critical than you AFM right now - so seek to understand that issue and resolve it first - then move on to your AFM.

But your process is up to you. I can only suggest.

What i did yesterday was to read codes, erase codes (made sure there was no error codes) and filmed when starting it. Read the codes and it showed 21 and 31 so the MAF was connected when I tried to start it.
I did leave it on idle or a min or so to fell on and press on the air hoses like you described and I left no leak and heard no difference.

I orderd the oil pressure sensor so I will get it beginning of the week and I won’t start it up before it is swapped to verify the workshop was right about that 👍

 

Great! So you read the codes first. Prior to that, you said you disconnected the AFM wiring harness and started the car up, and it started and idled better. So that action would have set the code 31. So we don't know yet if code 31 is set while the wiring harness is connected to the AFM. That's a good thing.

Advise back when you have replaced your oil pressure switch and what the result is. You might want to be prepared to either get a good manual oil pressure gauge to take an actual oil pressure reading, or have a local mechanic do so (just in case the replacement oil pressure switch doesn't change how the oil pressure warning light is operating now). I would have suggested your current oil pressure switch be tested first to see if it operates properly and to get a manual oil pressure gauge hooked up to the port that the switch is currently in first, before buying a replacement gauge (it is possible the problem with the oil pressure warning light is with the wiring being open or grounded someplace that it should not be, or you actually have an oil pressure problem).

 

well i did it in a few iterations first i read the codes and like you said obesely since i had the sensor off it warned. i reset the codes and make sure there was none and started it up again and read them and got both codes back again.

But today i did some investigation on the ICA and ECU that i got sugested on another forum.
The ECU looked like new but the ICA had a hose that was not connected so i re fitted it and i guess i will wait and see if it had any effect on the codes when i have refitted the new oil pressur senor or at least measured the pressure.

Will try and see if i can get a manual oil pressur meeter but if not i will try with a new sensor and see if it resolves it since that is what they wanted to do in the workshop.
If i manage to ge a meeter what is the normal oil pressur for this car?

 

Per my 1990 All-Trac Service Manual, oil pressure at idle should be 4.3 PSI or more (I would say 10 PSI or more), and from 36-71 PSI at 3,000 RPM (the 71 PSI would likely be a cold oil temp at engine speed, the 36 PSI would be on the low side of hot oil already run at highway speeds for at least 30 minutes on a hot day). I believe the oil pressure switch on these engines starts to come on at 2.5 PSI. Hence a problem - if something goes wrong at speeds above idle, if the oil pressure switch is working properly and starts to flicker the oil pressure warning light at highway speeds, most likely the damage has already happened. Installing a good oil pressure gauge in my opinion is very important.

 

Sorry for late feedback.
Now i have measured the oil pressure manually and it looked good as the workshop said and swapped the sensor and it works well.
I have cleaned the O2 and found a loose hose on the IAC that was refitted.
I am left with a dueling between 9-1100 RPM and engine light on (code 31) so I guess I have to rather buy a rely expensive MAF or do a MAP conversation 🤔

 

Capacitors only break if the leaked acid corrodes the leads off. Capacitors can fail internally without leaking also - so a visual doesn't always do it.

If you could send me the VIN of your RC, and what country it was built for, that would help me a lot. If you prefer to keep your VIN from the general public, you can just PM (private message) me using this forum.

So the wiring pigtail connected to your AFM is only a 5-wire connector, not a 7-wire as used on USDM models?