It does sound like the key cylinder is stuck in the "lock" position.

If you can unclip that thin rod which goes from the key cylinder's lever to the latch mechanism, then maybe you can push that down to unlock the door.

If after unclipping it from the key cylinder the rod still will not go down, then the issue is inside of the latch itself and things get very difficult. In the worst case the door will have to be cut apart to saw off the failed/rusted/seized latch from the striker, and then a junk yard door used to replace it.

 

You said that you opened the door card, so does that mean the door can be opened (at all)?

 

@norm356
Thanks! I’ll try that next time I’m able to work on the car. I unfortunately had to put everything back together because she needed the car. I'm super bummed I didn’t think of it until after I had it all back together and I was writing up the post xD

I’ve got Subiefest this weekend so I’ll probably have to wait until next week to get the car back, but I'll update the post as soon as I can.

@Strega315 Yeah I got lucky, I guess the last time someone worked on the door, they left the 3 screws out (2 on bottom and 1 on the side). So I was able to pull the door card off from the inside without opening the door.

In case it isn’t a seized door lock cylinder, does anyone else happen to have any ideas that I could try the next time I have the car?

 

I would follow Norms advice. It sounds like the lock cylinder MIGHT respond to a key cut to the vin number ,Had the same thing happen to me on a brand new Chevy truck close to 50 years ago. GM warranty

 

@Old Mechanic Yeah if the problem is the lock cylinder, I was thinking I'll just get a aftermarket cylinder from Autozone, and she'll just have to use two separate keys (1 key for the lock cylinder, and then her actual toyota key to start the car).

 

Did you say you can turn the lock cylinder with the key? If that is the case it is not the lock cylinder!
Based on what you had described, it sounded like you have an actuator stuck in the lock position. Can you hear the actuator working when you operate the switch?
See if you can disconnect the actuator, then try the lock again.

 

@new echo owner The key will not turn counter-clockwise to unlock the door. But yeah I agree, I had thought that the actuator was stuck in the locked position. I had read a post that was saying if it is stuck, sometimes you can get it to unstick/reset by holding the interior door lock and repeatedly toggling the electronic unlock/lock button. Unfortunately this did not help me. That’s why I was assuming the cylinder is seized to the point of no return, even after lubricating the barrel of the cylinder (which I saw work in another video).
And yeah, I can hear the actuator motor when pressing the unlock button, but it will not go.
I also tried disconnecting the actuator and trying the key again, but no luck there either.

 

Generally if the lock cylinder turns, there wouldn't be anything wrong with it. If it won't go the other direction, it is more likely caused by something external, like a stuck latch.
Since you can't open the door, it might be a little difficult to do; remove the outside door handle, it will allow you to inspect the lock cylinder.
Have seen the plastic linkage clip broke off, allowing the linkage to fall off, binding the latch and won't allow it to operate.
With the door handle off, it will also give you better view of the latch.

 

@new echo owner Yeah I'll pull the exterior door handle next time I have the car. I did inspect as much as I could from the inside of the door panel, and I can verify the plastic linkage clips were still intact. The lock cylinder looked like it had seen better days, but it wasn't very easy to see it so I can't verify how rusted it was from the backside.

 

Model and year? It sounds like a broken lock spring - about a buck for a new spring from a hardware store, but much pain to get to it. However, is sounds like you are already through most of the pain, having access from the interior. When I did the repair, I found it helpful to pull the handle from the passenger side for reference.

The driver's door tends to go first (from spring fatigue) because it gets so much more use. I did that repair with a slightly beefier spring, which proceeded to last ~20 years (until the car had to retire for lack of other parts).

 

Try WD40 in key hole , wait a day and see if it works..
I have 2001 Camry , Had problem with lock, Tried wd40 and waited about a day. Then I used silicon lube spay. Works perfect for more then 3 year..

 

Please do not use WD40 on anything delicate like a key cylinder. Its purpose is to prevent condensation on tools (and rocket motor housings) and to do so it leaves behind a sticky, gummy residue which will cause trouble for electric parts and small mechanical mechanisms (it is death to motors and switches).

If you are going to try some lubricant in the key cylinder, use something designed for the purpose (available at any auto parts store).

PS: I learned this lesson the hard way, with a sticky key cylinder into which I sprayed WD40, but then it would get sticky again after a few months, and each time it got worse. Finally I did some research and realized that using the wrong material can do that.

 

The key cylinder and the inside manual and power locks work separately from each other.

My 02 recently won't lock with any of these, haven't looked into it yet, but I'm thinking it's going to be the latch, since I can hear the actuator trying to unlock. Just have to disconnect the rods and see where the problem is.

 

There aren't any rods on the 02, it's all cables. Mine was intermittent, took the latch apart, and wish I'd taken pics. They had good drugs designing it!
All I could find wrong was electric connectors maybe weakened and not connecting, bent them a bit, and somehow got it back together, no problems since.

 

Have seen a few similar situations, from what I could gathered, a level on the latch somehow got stuck half way and won't allow the latch to do anything.
Often times I was able to get the doors open by sticking a long screw driver down between the door panel and window to poke around the latch area, getting the lever in place.

 

Try a key that is less worn and see if it turns easier in the cylinder. Make sure that the lock rod isn't bent.

 

Thanks @Jon Kauffman I’m actually not sure what model, but it’s a 2000. I assume LE, but I regrettably never checked 😜
Are you talking about the spring in the actuator assembly? I’ve heard of those breaking and/or stretching, so I’ll try to check it once I have the exterior door handle removed.

Thanks for the advice @norm365 I actually used a graphite based spray lubricant that I purchased from my local locksmith that is specifically used for lock cylinders, so I hope/assume it should be safe for the car door. It unfortunately had no effect even the next day.

@Bill Austin yeah sounds like a very similar problem. I’ll keep this post updated with any of my findings that may help you as well 👍

Thanks again @new echo owner That’s very close to what I’m going to try next. Once I remove the door handle, I’m going to try and force down the operating rod that connects the door lock cylinder to the actuator. This was the only rod that didn’t have the normal range of motion, so I’m hoping that’s all it is.

@corollacoaster She unfortunately only has 1 key for the car. Though, I don’t believe the key is the problem because it goes in perfectly fine, and even turns to lock all doors (but not unlock them since it’s seized). Also, it didn’t seem like the rod was bent when I was looking through the interior door panel, but I’ll have a better line of sight once the handle is removed.

 

Were you able fix this? My Avalon passenger door is stuck and I think it is the spring.

 

Almost surely we would have heard from Emdog by now if he had not fixed it (though it would be a good closure to the thread to hear the final resolution).

Spring failure is usually related to fatigue, so usually the driver door goes first. Passenger door spring first is possible, but it would be rare. I know it's very tough to remove interior door panels with the door closed, but you can probably do so, then compare to the driver door spring.