Should be on the rt side of the TB.

 

2003- IAC probably done by TB itself

 

Was 2001 the last year for the IACV?

 

Believe so.

 

If 2003 camry 2.4 does not have any idle control valve , I was wondering than why ebay and amazon both showing a match for this parts.

2003 Camry Idle air control valve amazon

 

eBay and Amazon.....enough said. Call Toyota parts and them about price and availability of that valve.

 

On 2003 camry 2.4 there is no idle control valve on the throttle body. It might be located somewhere else. But I don;t have issue now. My Intake and throttle body has been cleaned.

 

6 cyl yes. 2.4 has no tps or iac it's all built into throttle body

 

2003 V6 also has no IAC. The electronic throttle control manages idle air control.

 

This info is true I was thinking of the Avalon. The 2?4 and 3.0 in the cam is electric throttle body. That doesn't even look like a Avalon iac valve. Unless its a car from a different country maybe? Where is the op from?

 

Well I'm confused because the 2003 V6 is also showing a idle air control valve?

 

Based on your VIN, the table below (first attachment) describes your car's primary characteristics. The second attachment below includes your throttle body. Note that there is no reference to an attached idle air control valve or intake air control valve associated with the throttle body. Thia throttle body is what has the electronic throttle control (eliminates the cable connected to the accelerator pedal). With all this said, the third attached has two units involved with intake air control. They are highlighted, one orange and the other green. What purpose these two valves have, I do not know. Wish I could be of more help. Perhaps someone owning a late build 2003 Camry with the 1MZ-FE engine could chime in at this point.

 

The part in orange is electronically connected to the accelerator pedal and controls the amount of air in the intake. It is responsible for maintaining a steady idle speed when the accelerator is not pressed.

The part in green is the acoustic control induction system using engine vacuum to vary the length of the airflow in the intake plenum. It improves fuel efficiency and provides improved torque and acceleration when the accelerator pedal is pressed quickly resulting in low engine vacuum. Toyota has used this for years.

 

Thank you so very much it's really kind of you to do this for me. I just can't figure out why I still have a high RPM cold start after cleaning my throttle body months ago. I'm no mechanic but I have alittle common sense and I did it exactly as the video shows. It's driving me nuts

 

As the car warms up, does it drop back to a steady idle speed of about 600 to 650 rpm? If so this is normal.

If the idle remains high, you likely have air leaking in near the throttle body after the MAF or the idle air control isn't closing completely. You'll need a $6 OBD scanner and your smartphone to get MAF and fuel trims to diagnose further.

 

I totally understand where your coming from and it does make a lot of sense. However I'm one of those guys that thinks it wasn't that way before cleaning the throttle body which wasn't even dirty. Before cleaning it was for years around 1400 RPM at the first start of the day and dropped as it warmed and slightly higher in winter. Now when it's hot outside it's 2000 RPM at the first start of the day. And yes it does drop actually after about 3 to 5 seconds to 1400 like before then keeps dropping as it warms to about 550.

 

I'm guessing (I don't know) that your cleaning process for the throttle body affected the operation of the Intake Air Control Valve Assembly behind it in some way. Don't know if the linkage was accidentally contacted, or the vacuum hose connections disturbed, or if the material cleaned from the throttle body gummed up the butterfly valves in the Intake Air Control Valve Assembly. I would suggest you look very closely at this valve and see if something shows up regarding it. Compare yours against the one in the eBay link is post #26 regarding linkage connections at least. I would look at that closely.

 

Completely normal. With a dirty throttle body, the computer opens the throttle extra wide to compensate for the blocked air passage caused by the dirt. Then, when you clean it, the throttle is open more than needed causing the high idle. The computer then recalibrates itself to the clean throttle. All completely normal.

 

So i had the throttle body cleaned again with a induction cleaning. So now im hearing a buzzing and a clicking sound coming from the TB at start up but goes away after a few seconds. So does this tell you anything? Please reply

 

So although it sounds aggressive when I first start it that's normal. So it's not hard on the engine to have that high of an ideal on first start of the day or when it's freezing outside. I'm just worried buddy because I need this car to last me I'm not a man of money and I'm to old to walk to work again

 

To know if the engine is working well and assuming no check engine light, you'd need to provide more information about the wide range oxygen sensors (should be about 14.7), MAF (should be about 3.0), timing advance (should be about 20 degrees), IAT (should read the outside temperature) & fuel trims (should be below 5%). All this can be obtained from the OBD sensor I referenced above. If you post that information here, many of the folks in this forum have decades of experience with these motors and can easily help

I've attached a couple of pictures of what the data looks like from my car. You have to invest $6 to get this from your car.

Good luck!

 

The iat that you mentioned about reading the outside temperature has my attention. There was like 3 mornings that the temperature was around 80 degrees outside and the RPM wasn't as high. Does that say anything to you?

 

Nothing at all. Outside temperature only affects the duration of the warm up and idle speed during warm up. Once warm, many other factors control.

 

I wish I had your 2s knowledge about cars. Do either of you live near Kentucky? Id pay you to check my car out. Id even be willing to drive to surrounding states. Guys I'm telling the truth a lot of mechanics around here knows no more than I do. Only thing they know is how to take your money and lie.

 

Not sure there's a problem based on the car dropping back to quiet idle at 600 rpm on warm up. Maybe I'm missing something?

 

There's nothing to cause buzzing or clicking around the throttle body unless something is loose and/or rattling.

For about $150, your local Toyota dealer will run a full diagnostic and give you a written estimate of anything that needs to be fixed. You can then choose whether or not to follow his recommendations or post the dealer's recommendations here and ask for help.

 

There's nothing to cause buzzing or clicking around the throttle body unless something is loose and/or rattling.

For about $150, your local Toyota dealer will run a full diagnostic and give you a written estimate of anything that needs to be fixed. You can then choose whether or not to follow his recommendations or post the dealer's recommendations here and ask for help.

There's nothing to cause buzzing or clicking around the throttle body unless something is loose and/or rattling.

For about $150, your local Toyota dealer will run a full diagnostic and give you a written estimate of anything that needs to be fixed. You can then choose whether or not to follow his recommendations or post the dealer's recommendations here and ask for help.

So the motor couldn't be going bad inside the throttle body causing the butterfly to click or the gears inside the TB

 

You described the idle starting high and steadily dropping down to 600. That's how it's supposed to work. No idea if the stepper motor inside is going bad.

 

I'm sorry to ask I'm sure my lack of knowledge on cars must be frustrating to you. However I'm just realizing my car is supposed to have a TPS is this true? I thought I read somewhere it didn't have a exterior TPS and that it was built inside. So if this is the case couldn't this be the problem all along. I know you don't think there is a problem but I can't exactly explain what all is happening

 

Older models: A TPS is used to know how much your accelerator pedal is depressed (hence the throttle plate opened) when the throttle is connected to the accelerator pedal by a cable.

Newer models: Yours doesn't have such a cable controlled throttle - rather it has a sensor connected to the pedal and an electronic throttle controlled by a stepper motor located inside the throttle body. The sensor replaces the TPS.

Again: What problem are you trying to solve? I've given you 2 options: provide OBD data using a $6 OBD sensor (read the internet how to do that) or go to a dealer. I cannot help further. Someone else may prove more helpful.

 

Older models: A TPS is used to know how much your accelerator pedal is depressed (hence the throttle plate opened) when the throttle is connected to the accelerator pedal by a cable.

Newer models: Yours doesn't have such a cable controlled throttle - rather it has a sensor connected to the pedal and an electronic throttle controlled by a stepper motor located inside the throttle body. The sensor replaces the TPS.

Again: What problem are you trying to solve? I've given you 2 options: provide OBD data using a $6 OBD sensor (read the internet how to do that) or go to a dealer. I cannot help further. Someone else may prove more helpful.

I'm working on having a diagnostic test done like you suggested. I appreciate all your help and again I'm sorry for my lack of knowledge on electronic stuff. The high RPM is my issue still because one day it will start at 2000 RPM and the next it might be 1600 RPM. And I've been told that a 2000 RPM is way to high for a 03 but not for a newer vehicle. And now that noise I'm hearing has put more concerns to it not being normal. But you know more than me and I appreciate all you've done