I think the only real issue with a 2003 V6 3.0 is oil consumption from the valve cover with the PCV valve. Sludge could be another issue if the engine oil was not changed properly. The older 3.0 V6 engines were very prone to sludge buildup if the oil was not changed regularly.

All and all the Highlander V6(3.0 and 3.3) is problem free other than oil consumption and sludge, so that Highlander for sale seem like a good deal to me. However, like any used car have it checked out by a mechanic to be sure that it has no surprises.

I recently purchased a 2007 V6 4WD with 226k miles for about the same price($5k); and it needed some work that i missed during my quick test drive. I needed to fix valve cover leaks and a power steering pump/hose leak. I was prepared for the timing belt and spark plugs, but got blind-sided with the valve covers and power steering pump. So my advice would be to really inspect it and have a mechanic do it for you.

 

Thanks! Good to know.All thats just normal stuff. If not already done, am sure its going to need
T-belt / water pump / belts and tensioners. Valve cover gaskets, radiator and shocks. At a minimum.
Pretty much normal 100k mile items on Toyota's. Age and mileage considered.
This was prev. owned by a restaurant owner, Am told interior has stains. So seats will prob need seat covers, and floor mats at a min.
The used car market is really tough in my area. This seemed too good to be true. Will know at 9:00 am....
Not buying for myself, but worked in the mech. field for 40 yrs. Am the one who is checking it out for a friend.

 

If your friend pulls the trigger on it, make sure to swap to the revised rear valve cover from the 2005+ 3.3 L models, helped bring my oil consumption down to basically zilch. I have a post about it and a few others have documented it as well.

Other than that, there aren’t too many things to complain about with these cars. Never had suspension issues other than normal wear and tear.

 

Read about the egr valve / oil issue. 1st I have heard about the valve cover?
(Meant to say PCV valve) My mistake...

 

Read about the egr valve / oil issue. 1st I have heard about the valve cover?

Baffles in the rear bank cover tend to get sludged up and allow oil to be pulled in through the PCV. A lot of oil - up to a quart in 500 miles. Check for liquid oil in the PCV hose and characteristic puff of smoke when starting if it has been sitting a while (beware if they warmed it up for you already), and look for heavy soot around the tail pipe.
May not be a deal-breaker in this market, but something to be aware of.

 

Good car. In addition to the usual wear points and corrosion inspection, the things I can add are it has a timing belt that probably needs changing and the knock sensors tend to go (P0325/P0330), but there are work-arounds if you search this forum. Plugs are also due at 120, and require removing the upper plenum for access. Valve covers are probably seeping.
Sludge is the #1 killer of the 1MZ-FE. Oil burning can lead to P0420 code (single downstream O2 sensor for both banks.) P0420 is usually the cats. The valve cove baffles get sludged up and cause oil burning through the PCV, so check the PCV hose for liquid oil. Similar to the GM problem with valve covers.
These ECM's do not like aftermarket engine control sensors, so OEM or Denso parts need to be factored into cost of repair.
P044x is often the purge manifold at the engine. Charcoal canister is easy access behind the fuel tank.
AC pressure loss is often the condenser
Wheel bearings a relatively common issue.
Corrosion at the hose fittings on the rack.
Common for the temp control knob ribbon cables to fail. Simple solder fix, but can take out the blend door actuator.
If it has the automatic climate control, the LCD screen blanks out in heat. System still works, but you don't know what temperature you are setting and you lose the trip computer display.
I believe the most significant recall was the crank damper rubber could separate. I don't think the 2003 had the master cylinder recall, but I could be wrong.
The 2001 to 2003 were all very similar. Major refresh in 2004 to the 3MZ-FE V6, electronic throttle, and the U151 5 speed automatic, AWD went to open differentials, some suspension and hub differences, and 3 row seating option, so things you hear about the 2004 to 2007 V6 may not apply to the 2003 V6, such as the throttle/transmission lag. The 4 cylinder had head bolt problems if overheated, and some reports of oil ring problems if oil changes were inadequate.

 

Should add that Carguy75 has been documenting a lot of work lately, so reading the threads he started may give more insight. Ralph Spoilsport recently did his rack.

 

Thanks for the info. Bought the car today, passed smog no problem.
Plan to do the major service soon. T belt, water pump, belt tensioner, belt, plugs, plug wires valve cover gaskets etc.
Front bumper cover needs a few clips. But no damage at all under the cover.
Has 122,000 miles. 1 owner car. Should go another 100k easy with the above completed / no problem.
Have been driving a 1995 T100 from new. Just cant kill it.

Ordered a new Tacoma in Sep. Still waiting. Its a great truck. But 27 years is enough. Ready for a new one.

 

Thanks for the info. Bought the car today, passed smog no problem.
Plan to do the major service soon. T belt, water pump, belt tensioner, belt, plugs, plug wires valve cover gaskets etc.
Front bumper cover needs a few clips. But no damage at all under the cover.
Has 122,000 miles. 1 owner car. Should go another 100k easy with the above completed / no problem.
Have been driving a 1995 T100 from new. Just cant kill it.
View attachment 361328

View attachment 361329

View attachment 361330

Ordered a new Tacoma in Sep. Still waiting. Its a great truck. But 27 years is enough. Ready for a new one.
View attachment 361332

Congrats on the new ride.

You are planning to do what I am doing now to my 2007 Highlander I purchase a couple months ago even down to the missing bumper clips. I had to repair one side that had a broken tab on the bumper that would not clip in the support which was missing also. I used a plastic welder and mesh support backing to repair the missing bumper tab and replaced the support. The front bumper fits perfectly now.

Very nice looking T100.

The front bumper tab I had to fix. Not the prettiest repair but it works.

 

Nice one! Envious of those California vehicles...

Can second the A/C condenser leaks. On my 2003, if you were facing it from the front of the vehicle, my leak was at the weld on the very top of the cylinder that holds the dryer where it meets the condenser. Could see it when the compressor cycled. Previous owner said Toyota dealer couldn't find the leak, but I did with a small UV light. I installed mine and still had a small leak at the line junctions when using the factory torque specs. Had to crank them down a little more.

It is possible to change the rear plugs without removing the plenum. I did it. Not fun and my arms looked like I wrestled a wolverine but I think it did save time. There is a great write up on here that lays out all the tools and extension lengths. Wish I would have found that before. Obviously, a moot point if you are working on the rear valve cover anyway.

I'd pull the temperature control knob off and check to make sure the nut is tight or you can end up the mentioned ribbon problem. Luckily, mine was pretty tight but I snugged it up and put a drop of thread locker on it. Easy way to avoid a future nightmare.

Don't forget the cabin filter. Makes a big difference with air flow/smells.

Look for the dimples on screws like the ones for the throttle body and idle air control. They are JIS #2 and easy to strip with a regular Philips. Don't ask how I know.

Oh, and if you do the front brakes, keep track of where the caliper pins go. One has a bushing on it and goes in either the top or bottom. If you do that, I'd be curious to know how yours were positioned too. Lot of friendly debate about it. That's how I found this great forum.

 

Went back through my spreadsheet. One thing I had to do was replace the rear most (downstream) 02 sensor. It is possible to do it from underneath with the front on ramps. The hard part is reaching up to unhook the harness. Need to have long-ish arms. But very easy job. Less than 15 minutes.

And you mentioned floor mats. I have the same color interior and I ended up getting the tan heavy duty ones they sell at most Sam's Clubs in that tool area. I'm very pleased with them and didn't even have to cut them. They don't move at all and hold the liquids in with high outer ridges. Best of all my feet don't slip around on them. Great value. The rubber mat they have at Sam's fits ok in the rear storage area too. I could cut it but it works well enough for me. Only comes in black though.

 

Meant to say PCV valve above. Wrote EGR valve by mistake. Blame it on old age. lol

 

So far so good. Cleaning continues. Checked the PCV valve. Its fine / clean. 1st thing I noticed is the choke is not working. And idle is super low when warmed up.
Runs super smooth. Am surprised as just a couple hundred rpm, runs like a swiss watch. .
Will look into those 2 things to start with.

 

AV Consult posted a way to clean the IACV without removing it.

 

Was thinking about pulling it 1st. Will look for the thread.

 

I ended up doing it that way. The IAC motor screws are very soft metal, at least one has thread locker, and both take a JIS #2 screwdriver or bit. Seemed to work fine leaving it on. No issues.

 

Could not find the post? (or AV Consult ) What's the trick in leaving in on?
Thanks!

 

Here's the post about taking it off.

Cleaning your IAC a better way

My '02 HL V6, with 202k miles started to have low idle speed problems or would just plain die in gear. I had experienced the symptoms about 75k miles ago and it was a gummed up IAC. Since I don't enjoy disassembling my cars like SweeneyP, I studied the IAC and discovered a way to clean the...

www.toyotanation.com

I got confused. I think there is another post about leaving the motor on and using a tube hooked up to the spray can nozzle. Can't search for it right now. I guess that's a last resort way really.

 

Thanks.

 

I forgot to add that the 3.0 and 3.3 engines also suffer from a leaky water inlet housing. It is sealed with RTV that fails after 100k miles, and seem to be a common issue on any Lexus/toyota model with the 3.0 and 3.3. I am currently in the process of putting a new RTV gasket on my 2007 before it leaks while I have my engine apart doing other work. My engine has over 200k miles, but my water housing was dry so it is anyone guess when or if the gasket will fail.

I just decided to do it while I got the chance before it happens a few months later after I put my engine back together.

 

Odd deal buying this car for a friend. (But I got super lucky, Lotto winner lucky) It was sold 2 months ago in Oct. from orig owner to a neighbor. I have no records, no owners manual, zero history etc. Nothing. They purchased it for a relative, but it was too large for a 1st time driver. I pulled the car up with the VIN on Toyota.com. They had the oil changed at the dealer every 6 months from new. And I found they did the T belt and water pump in 2010 with 75,000 miles. So no rush as its now at 122k. Just time (10 yrs) / but not miles. The only real mechanical issue I have found is the 300 rpm at idle. And having to keep my foot on the gas from cold to operating temp. So the Th. body needs a cleaning, idle valve etc. This is what the dealer recommended it needed work wise when it had its last oil change.



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T belt & Wp.

 

You are not going to believe this. Cleaned under the butterfly valves with some gas and a rag, and now it runs perfectly.
Must have been restricting air. Causing the cold start issue. And 300 rpm when warm.
Choke function works fine (just under 2000 rpm) . Idles when warm around 1200 - 1400. Photos prior to cleaning.

 

Choke function works fine (just under 2000 rpm) . Idles when warm around 1200 - 1400.

Should idle about 700. You may have a vacuum leak.

 

My '03 purchased new, now has 335,000 miles. Uses oil. Now I know what to look for to fix it.

 

One more point of information about the 3.3 V6; it is an interference engine so timing belt changes are important!!!

There is some information that states that that the 3.3 VVTi V6 is not an interference engine; so it gives the false impression that a broken timing belt will not damage this engine. It will. The 3.0 non-VVT engine is a non-interference engine. Not sure about about the 3.0 VVT engine.

So change those timing belts on newly acquired 3.3 V6 powered Highlanders with over 100k miles instead of hoping the timing belt cover sticker dates(or service records) are accurate. It could be a costly mistake.

 

The belt was changed at 75k miles. But has been 11 yrs. Needs to be done, but not an emergency.

"On the idle, it did run between 700 and 1k. But seemed to move around a bit after cleaning.
Was around 700. Then after a few days settled back to the as purchased 300-400 range.
"

Oddly the no choke when cold and low idle returned after 4 days of working pretty much perfectly.
Have to again hold your foot on the pedal to keep it running when cold. Till it warms up a bit.
Then runs great but at a low idle.
Am guessing its the idle control valve. Best guess anyway.