Snag one of these for your tool box or put a 15mm(?) socket on a long breaker bar so you can push down the the tensioner to get the belt on.

Serpentine Belt Tool Kit

Amazing deals on this Serpentine Belt Tool Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

Snag one of these for your tool box or put a 15mm(?) socket on a long breaker bar so you can push down the the tensioner to get the belt on.

Serpentine Belt Tool Kit

Amazing deals on this Serpentine Belt Tool Kit at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Infamous broken tensioner 'bolt'

broken off trying to put it back on ". I need an alternate way to grab the tensioner assembly. Those tools look great if I had the hex section in tact, but it is broken off. Two days trying to remove the lower front mount so I could raise the engine to replace the tensioner, but it will not budge. Removed upper engine mount, front engine mount, and nut for lower engine mount (inside wheel well). That is stuck in place so the long bolt for the tensioner will not clear the car body to remove it thus leaving me with the old tensioner (which works) except for no way to compress the piston to put belt back on.

John

 

Just tossing ideas out there, can ya run a strap over the pulley and pull it down, then just let one end go and pull it thru once the belts on?

 

Strap over pulley underneath belt then pull it out once the belt is on.
Worth a try, thanks. I'll try that tomorrow.

John

 

I will help you. Been there done that a few times. Real pain. You will need to replace the tensioner to get the belt back on. Not many instructions on how to do this with a seized mount.

I had this same problem. That "bolt" breaks all the time. I guess I'm just unlucky, I've broken three of them at this point, including the original one. The original one, the strut was frozen, replacement was not. Still managed to break it though. I made sure to go SLOW very SLOW like pull down over the course of a whole minute or two, still broke.

My motor mount was also seized. Soaked in liquid wrench long time. The stud was stuck in the mount on the engine.

To replace the tensioner with a seized motor mount on this car.

1. Remove dog bone motor mount on top and the bracket on the engine.
2. Remove the side mount on the top of the engine via three bolts, along with a metal bracket going to the front of the engine. This will create a lot of more clearance! I couldn't find this suggestion anywhere while I was doing this. With these two brackets out of way. So much more space! You can also remove the ground wire if you want.

3. Remove the bottom nut of the tensioner that the bottom of the strut is being clamped down on. I used a really long wrench to get this easily. Otherwise it may be hard for you.
4. Break free the bolt on the top of the tensioner (but leave it in there, just loosen it up). This is a very long bolt. So you will need to jack up the engine to get it out.
5. Loosen the bolt in the center motor mount from the one on top (you may need to loosen this more as you jack up the engine)
6. Remove the three nuts underneath the rubber motor mount on the engine side. You also undo the nut on the top of the rubber motor mount or you just leave it on if you don't want to bother breaking the mount free. Once mount is sufficiently in the air and all four nuts move, you can use the mount as leverage to try and free it from the metal bracket on the engine. I forgot to do this but it doesn't really make a difference.
7. There are two 10 mm bolts holding the hard part of the power steering line to the front subframe. Break these free. This will allow the power steering line to go up with the motor mount, otherwise it will be in the way and you can brake something.
8. Using floor jack and block of wood, go under the oil pan of the engine and slowly raise the engine up. You will have to get uncomfortably high to get the top bolt out of the tensioner. Go slow. Also something I learned, you can get the bolt out as much as you can, and angle it sightly, to get it come out. It doesn't look like it will and you will need to jack it up even higher, but it can come out sooner then you'd expect. Next time I do this I'm going to get the axle out of the hub on the engine side to avoid putting unnecessary tension on it. But you will also need a new axle nut. Additionally, if your exhaust isn't rusted to all heck, I'd loosen the bolts from the manifold to the first section of exhaust pipe. This is to avoid unnecessary tension on the flex pipe section. I didn't do this, but you can do it as a precaution if the nuts on the exhaust aren't rusted to all heck.
9. Put the new tensioner on there, reinstall the bolt on top. I used a torque wrench. I'm going to use one of those torque wrench adapters next time I do this to torque it down, so won't have to lift the engine so high next time.
10. Slowly lower the engine back down while ensuring the studs on the bottom of the motor mount make it into the front subframe. Go SLOWLY. You may have to have a friend adjust the motor mount so it goes into the holes.
11. You should be able to torque the bottom nut on the tensioner no problem.
12. Torque the three nuts on the motor mount back down and the top one if you removed.
13. torque the top bolt from the center motor mount back down.
14. Reinstall belt.
15. Put the three bolts back on the side motor mount and the bracket.
16. Put dog bone motor mount back on.

Any questions let me know. I was in the same exact situation you were in. All assumed your motor mount wasn't seized in the bracket, so I had to improvise with the method above. These direction would have defiantly helped me.

Any questions let me know. Also I learned the hard way. Whenever doing anything with the tensioner, it's best to have a spare new one laying around just incase the one on your car, the dummy bolt breaks again. When it broke on me, had to go to the store and it was like $60 bucks more than online stores. So I always keep a spare brand new one on hand, just in case I brake it again.

Also I found the best way to pull tension on the tensioner was a 3/8 drive ratchet and a stubby 19 mm socket. I also use a very long 40" steel pipe as a cheater bar. I used a copper one once doing this job, and it snapped. I had no luck with the "special" serpentine belt tools, because an extreme amount of force is required to get the old belt off and the new one back on.

 

5. Loosen the bolt in the center motor mount from the one on top (you may need to loosen this more as you jack up the engine)
6. Remove the three nuts underneath the rubber motor mount on the engine side. You also undo the nut on the top of the rubber motor mount or you just leave it on if you don't want to bother breaking the mount free. Once mount is sufficiently in the air and all four nuts move, you can use the mount as leverage to try and free it from the metal bracket on the engine. I forgot to do this but it doesn't really make a difference.

Hi John,
Thanks for that lengthy tutorial. Truly appreciated.

5. By "center motor mount" do you mean the front motor mount?

6. When I look underneath the side motor mount all I see is a mass of rust where the nuts are. I am wondering if I need a spare motor mount if I attempt to loosen them. My experience with that must rust is not good.

Regards,
John

 

Lisle 59370 Stretch Belt Remover / Installer

Some manufacturers install stretch fit belts, meaning there aren't tensioners at all on some engines. I've got one and I've had to cheat a few times myself. I don't think the belt will be happy about it. You might hear tearing as you try to install the belt. It's your risk to take if you decide to try it. I almost forgot, you won't be happy about the tool either. I never found a stretch belt tool that was all that user friendly. Expect it to take a few tries and get your swear words warmed up.

 

Thanks for the advice,
John

 

I will also add to install and reinstall belt from the water pump as the last pulley. The alternator will be the most tempting because it's closest, but it has a ridge on it on the outside of the pulley, making it more difficult.

 

Update:
Was able to remove 3 nuts underneath right side motor mount. Leaving nut on top of motor mount in place:
1. Remove upper motor mount dogbone. (I left the dogbone mount in place because the three bolts would not budge and I didn't want to heat the casting.
2. Loosen front motor mount.
3. Raise engine sufficient for tensioner bolt to clear the car body. Motor mount (still attached popped out of three holes and went up with engine.
4. Once the tensioner mounting bolt was clear I tried to remove it, but it would not budge. So rather than break it off I spent an hour doing heating and cooling cycles of the bolt head with a Mapp Gas torch. Then using a 14mm socket and 3/8 swivel ratchet it finally broke loose and unscrewed.
5. The tensioner came right out from the top because it was high enough from jacking up the engine even with the dogb one bracket in place.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Autozone has one so I'll get a ride down there from a neighbor to pick it up. Then I'll order a spare from Rock Auto to keep. The belt looks to be in perfect shape by the way (It is a Toyota belt)

One of the problems I see many people have is that the hex part of the casting is NOT an exact size. It is sort of in between which explains why so many people round it off and then break it trying to put tension on it.

I'll measure the new one, but it may be that I have to stick a cut strip of soda can metal on the inside of a 3/4" socket to get it to grab securely.

As a first time on this forum my experience has been great.

Thank you so much.
Regards,
John

 

Looks like you got it! Glad to help!

I was talking about the front motor mount near the radiator but, looks like you figured it out and got it out. Glad to have helped!

Greatly surprised those three bolts were frozen up on you, on the mount. I think it's an aluminum casting block thing, and the three bolts are under the dog bone mount, so mine weren't rusted at all.

Yup, that's what I'm doing. I think it's highly likely I'm going to break another one again. The tensioner was like 60 bucks more at the auto parts store.

I used a very long 14 mm box end wrench for the top long bolt. Glad you got that one out.

Let us know about the "bolt" on the tensioner. I always thought it was a 19 mm. Pretty sure Toyota uses metric. But I've seen like Honda bleeder screws that are supposed to be 10 mm, end up being 10.2 mm. So I'm sure there's some manufactures tolerance and it could be slightly greater or smaller. The first time I did this, I used a 12 point socket by accident. Thought it was the reason why it broke, yet it happened again to me with a 6 point. Looking at other standards, seems like a 18.5 mm socket or a 3/4 inch socket would be the closest you could get. Whitworth sizes won't get you close. I once came across some odd non-standard whitworth combination wrenches, 5/32 W. Who knows, maybe a 13/32 W socket exists out there somewhere. I also noticed that some of my sockets, the broach wasn't deep enough on the tensioner, so I had to find one that fully took in the "bolt".

3/8 W = 18.03 mm
23/32 inch = 18.2562 mm
18.5 mm
19 mm
3/4 inch = 19.05 mm
19.5 mm
20 mm
7/16 W = 20.83 mm

A better setup for this tensioner, would be to have the top bolt on the tensioner be a threaded stud and nut, then wouldn't need to jack up the engine. Not sure why they came up with this method to mount the tensioner.

My Dayco No Slack 89360 measured 19.0 towards the top and seemed to get tapered in slightly as I went down the bolt. Got 18.9 mm and then 18.8 mm towards the base of the "bolt".

 

Looks like you got it! Glad to help!

I was talking about the front motor mount near the radiator but, looks like you figured it out and got it out. Glad to have helped!

Greatly surprised those three bolts were frozen up on you, on the mount. I think it's an aluminum casting block thing, and the three bolts are under the dog bone mount, so mine weren't rusted at all.

Yup, that's what I'm doing. I think it's highly likely I'm going to break another one again. The tensioner was like 60 bucks more at the auto parts store.

I used a very long 14 mm box end wrench for the top long bolt. Glad you got that one out.

Let us know about the "bolt" on the tensioner. I always thought it was a 19 mm. Pretty sure Toyota uses metric. But I've seen like Honda bleeder screws that are supposed to be 10 mm, end up being 10.2 mm. So I'm sure there's some manufactures tolerance and it could be slightly greater or smaller. The first time I did this, I used a 12 point socket by accident. Thought it was the reason why it broke, yet it happened again to me with a 6 point. Looking at other standards, seems like a 18.5 mm socket or a 3/4 inch socket would be the closest you could get. Whitworth sizes won't get you close. I once came across some odd non-standard whitworth combination wrenches, 5/32 W. Who knows, maybe a 13/32 W socket exists out there somewhere. I also noticed that some of my sockets, the broach wasn't deep enough on the tensioner, so I had to find one that fully took in the "bolt".

3/8 W = 18.03 mm
23/32 inch = 18.2562 mm
18.5 mm
19 mm
3/4 inch = 19.05 mm
19.5 mm
20 mm
7/16 W = 20.83 mm

A better setup for this tensioner, would be to have the top bolt on the tensioner be a threaded stud and nut, then wouldn't need to jack up the engine. Not sure why they came up with this method to mount the tensioner.

For such a reliable car this is a pervasive problem. I think maybe they improved it in later years (not sure).

$80 would have been great. Autozone is delivering it tomorrow. Duralast 305360 with only a one year warranty. $148.99 less $10 coupon code + tax with free shipping. $150.28

I ordered a spare from Rock Auto (delivery Thursday) Continental 49303 $93.79 + shipping and tax. The belt is good, but I ordered a Bando 7PK1940 for a spare. The Toyota Part number is 90916-A2005. The Bando belt was $14.34 from Rock Auto + shipping and tax. The entire Rock Auto order (tensioner + belt) came to $128.34 delivered.

The bolt is very long (almost too long). It is 10mm x 1.25 x 85mm Grade 5 (3 marks). Probably a grade 8.8 is easier to find. I would think a 70mm would work and maybe be able to be removed without jacking up the engine. I don't think I will use a different bolt, but I sure will use a lot of Anti-Sieze compound on it so I can get it out easier.

Lining up the Right motor mount holes might be a chore. Hopefully the edges of the threads don't mash when trying to get them back into the holes.
Even suspended I couldn't free up the stud on top of the Right motor mount. Maybe I should have ordered a spare. We'll see. They should be replaced as a set. The plastic protective covers were gone for the two outer nuts. They are exposed to the road.

Greatly surprised those three bolts were frozen up on you, on the mount. I think it's an aluminum casting block thing, and the three bolts are under the dog bone mount, so mine weren't rusted at all.

They weren't rusted. They just wouldn't budge. Aluminum can crack especially with heat applied. The bracket doesn't seem to be in the way. I may install the belt before I lower it. I'll measure the fake bolt and post the exact size here.

John

 

For anyone else following along and trying to visualize this repair:

 

Good Info IDNK
What engine is this?

Did you take any pics of the engine work.... might help others more
And there we go..... will watch the video
Drive Belt Tensioner - Toyota Camry (2002-2006) 2AZFE (2.4L)

 

Yup, exactly. 2AZ-FE. There is no video though of what to do when there's a seized engine mount. Essentially you do what is in the video, except remove the three nuts on the bottom engine mount, and two additional small 10 mm bolts holding the hard part of the power steering line to the front subframe. The motor mount will come into contact with the power steering line as you jack up the engine, so have to undo those two small bolts.

 

The installation went smoothly. I completed it two days ago, but wanted to wait until I had the spare tensioner from Rock Auto before posting.

I reused the old mounting bolt on the new AutoZone tensioner as well as the bottom mounting nut that goes on the lower part of the tensioner piston. I applied high temperature antisieze compound (the copper colored type) to the end of the mounting bolt that screws into the block and regular (silver) antizieze on the rest of the bolt. It was easy to mount and tighten with the engine raised.

I measured the fake bolt on the AutoZone tensioner and it measured 19mm (3/4"). It is slightly tapered and of course six point. The piston is different than the OEM. When I got the spare from Rock Auto (today - two days after installation) it looked exactly like the OEM version. The fake bolt measured exactly the same as the AutoZone version. I tested the compression of the piston in a vice and it worked fine (It won't be used until the AutoZone one fails which will then be out of warranty)

With the engine raised, installing the belt and compressing the tensioner was much easier so that's what I did. I used a 3/4 inch 3/8 shallow SIX POINT socket, a 3/8 ratchet, and an 18 inch length of pipe (conduit) with a 3/4" ID.
19mm would have worked, but all of mine are 12 point and that is probably why a lot of the edges of the fake bolts get rounded off. They just don't have enough surface area to grab well with that much pressure without slipping and rounding off the edges. Once the edges are rounded off the fake bolt is on it's way to future destruction.

I would avoid lengthy pipes or other extensions to do this. The longer the extension for leverage, the greater the risk of applying pressure at an angle. With the 18 inch pipe slid down over the ratchet handle the entire length of the ratchet inside the pipe was maybe 20 inches. You can adjust it to suit you.
I held the head of the socket against the fake bolt with my left hand and applied downward pressure on the pipe/ratchet extension with the other.
The instruction tag on the AutoZone tensioner said to compress it slowly over a 30 second period and that seemed more than adequate. Once sufficiently compressed, I let go of the ratchet head with my left hand and slid the belt over the water pump pulley. Released it and all was good.

When I lowered the engine the three mounting bolts on the RH motor mount slid right into the holes. I think it was a good idea to loosen, but NOT remove the FR motor mount top mounting bolt. That keeps the motor from pitching backwards too far which might result in misalignment of the RH motor mount bolt holes. Torqued everything (except the two small 10mm power steering pipe bolts at the bottom). I might also pick up a spare RH motor mount just in case I need it next time. ANCHOR INDUSTRIES 9212 - $28.79 (nuts not included).

Both tensioners have holes which line up with the original so either one should work. The original pulley bearing and piston seem good so I will save those. They can be swapped out. The pulley on the original and the Continental (Litens) tensioner from Rock Auto look to be a T-50 star bolt and the AutoZone was a hex bolt. The pistons on all of them are bolted on (some 14 mm some 16mm).

Thanks again.

Regards,
John