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2006 Camry Codes P0010 and P0335

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2K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  Bintiwangu  
#1 ·
I'm a first time poster here. Thanks in advance for the help. I have a 2006 Camry with a 2.4 AZFE. About 250,000 miles on it. CURRENTCODES: P00I0, P0335

I bought it from the second owner and it seems to have been maintained well. It was getting hot and mechanic told 2nd owner it needed a head gasket. I put a rebuilt head on it and put the Huhn block inserts in all 10 holes. None of the headbolts acted stripped when I took them out, so I don't know what was going on there with the headgasket.
Anyway, I got it together and it ran great for a few days then started throwing a code P0010 and running rough.
The crank sensor was out of spec, so I changed it without results. VVT solenoid checked good too, but I changed it out anyway as it didn't act as "snappy" mechanically as the new one when battery testing. Cam sensor checks good, haven't touched it other than to swap from old head. Fuel pump got changed also, and one coil pack. We're not driving it now. Sometimes it doesn't want to start at all. Sometimes it starts right up but runs rough. Yesterday it started up and sounded great for a few minutes then got rough again. Chain and timing components are unchanged by myself. Not sure if previous owner ever did it. The engine looked clean when I had it open. I did change the VVT screen and it looked clean also.
I'm trying to get up to speed on this stuff, so I bought a Topdon Phoenix plus, and a Hantek 1008C labscope. (Just barely learning to use them now) Wiring to sensors shows no obvious problems. We got some waveforms captured from the cam and crank sensors as well as the VVT solenoid. I was wondering if there is any way someone can look at them and help us interpret the data, and or give us advice on where to go next?
 
#6 ·
Thank you for answering. Yes I did put remove the timing chain, and yes I did put the wheel on correctly. I was aware of its function and made certain it had the correct side out. But if it were on wrong, there's no way it could run well for a couple of days, and intermittently after is there? Thanks again! Kevin
 
#3 ·
P0010 intake camshaft position. Change the sensor $6-7
P0335 There are many potential causes of code P0335.
  • Damaged or defective crankshaft position sensor.
  • Broken timing belt or chain.
  • Rough running/misfiring engine.
  • Failed ECM.
 
#4 ·
A 2006 probably wouldn't need thread inserts; that was an issue with earlier engines.

Did you find that the head gasket was indeed blown? Were the head bolts stretched or measured within spec?

How much was the warpage of the head and block? And the new head? What was done on the rebuilt head, e.g. was it machined flat? Were the cam bearings checked for warpage?

How much timing chain stretch did you measure, was it within spec? Also the cam gear wear measurement? Chain guide and tensioner ramps worn?

Did the VVT gear rotate easily by hand with the lock pin released?

Any before/after compression test data, or leakdown testing?
 
#8 ·
Yes, one cylinder was full of antifreeze, but I was not able to pinpoint where the gasket failed.
I replaced the head with a rebuilt one from Clearwater in Florida. Did not check block, or new cam bearings for warpage. I did not check the timing chain either. I'm not sure what I was thinking to not just put a new one in when I had it apart. Normally that is what i would do.
Did not check the cam gear for wear or the chain guide and tensioner ramps. I would be happy to replace those if it would solve the issue. If that stuff stretches/wears beyond spec will it cause issues like mine?
I did not check the VVT gear/lock pin as I'm totally ignorant of that. I've changed one VVT engine years ago, but never messed with one internally. No, "after" comp test or leakdown, but I can perform both of those tests and report back as soon as time permits. Thanks again for the help!
 
#5 ·
With the Topdon look for the difference between the cam angle targeted and the actual angle.
Difference of more than 5 degrees sets P0010.
If P0010 not setting at idle then base timing good.
If setting at higher RPM then suspect VVT circuit/components.
ALLdata.com or Mitchell have waveforms to help with diagnosis for cam/crank faults.
 
#9 ·
Thank you for answering! It may take us a bit to get than done between my work schedule and our rather steep learning curve on using this new to us technology. As I said, the VVT waveform proves that our wiring circuit is good. Correct?
And we did replace the VVT solenoid even though it checked electrically like the new one, but didn't seem as responsive when we tested it with a battery. I noticed what I thought was an oil hole for the VVT when I put the timing cover on. Is there any way that could become clogged with gasket sealer when installing the cover? (I wiped the silicone away from the hole in an area a little smaller than a dime as I remember) But if the oil hole got clogged, it wouldn't be able to run well for a couple of days and then run well intermittently also would it? Thanks again!
 
#7 ·
Thank you for answering! It may take us a bit to get than done between my work schedule and our rather steep learning curve on using this new to us technology. As I said, the VVT waveform proves that our wiring circuit is good. Correct?
And we did replace the VVT solenoid even though it checked electrically like the new one, but didn't seem as responsive when we tested it with a battery. I noticed what I thought was an oil hole for the VVT when I put the timing cover on. Is there any way that could become clogged with gasket sealer when installing the cover? (I wiped the silicone away from the hole in an area a little smaller than a dime as I remember) But if the oil hole got clogged, it wouldn't be able to run well for a couple of days and then run well intermittently also would it? Thanks again!
 
#12 ·
Praise God it's running!
I just got done and wanted to thank you guys again and pass on the solution. I finally got to it again today. Checked the compression with the "thumb" method since I couldn't find my compression tester, and was too lazy to find TDC 4 times to use my leakdown tester. Anyway I didn't believe it could be compression since it was intermittent.

Today, the thing started immediately, sounded pretty good, then died just as quickly. Then it wouldn't start again at all.
I decided it must be stretched timing components tricking the sensor/computer relationship, and I ordered a complete kit. I suppose it will be good preventive maintenance anyway when it shows up, as we've got 227K on it now. But I digress...

I started working on another project, but my lovely assistant (wife) searched and found a post on "Just answer".
A guy had changed a head and had lots of codes. "Changing the head" was the clue for the savvy technician who helped him. Because of course the wires get removed in a head swap. It turns out his "EH ground" was bad. For those who don't know, there's an "EG ground" point on the left end of cylinder head and and EH ground point in back back side of engine. It's early mpossible to see from the top, except using a small mirror. Located near bottom left end of intake manifold tunnel. It's a real nightmare to get to, and there's a couple of white wires with black tracers that get bolted to the engine there. I checked ours and it was sloppy loose! With great hopefullness, I tightened it up with a 10mm shallow 1/4" drive socket. I'd rate it a 9 out of 10 for difficulty, but it is doable.

It starts immediately now, runs great, and no codes. I know it's cliche to say, "check your grounds". But I guess there's a reason it gets said so much. So my wife gets to be the hero on this one for finding the clue.
Thanks again and hopefully this will help someone else. Have a great weekend! Kevin