Has anyone converted the heated seat switches (which are currently not in use) to a USB port?
mvyvoda
Thanks Allan. Awesome help and so fast; much appreciated. I ended up getting
http://mictuning.com/mictuning-dual...a-series-66ft-power-wire-39ft-audio-wire-stereo-usb-connector-needed_p0195.html
I am connecting to an after market radio with female USB.
http://mictuning.com/mictuning-dual...a-series-66ft-power-wire-39ft-audio-wire-stereo-usb-connector-needed_p0195.html
I am connecting to an after market radio with female USB.
I'm glad that the little switch replacement will work well for you.
In today's era of portable electronics, I've crammed USB charging ports wherever I could in this '04.
I did find a double-USB charging module that pops directly into the spot where the 'cigarette lighter' was factory installed, with another in the round port that had an occupancy indicator--not that it was actually necessary, since I can see who's sitting in the car anyway.
The two switch knock-outs behind the shifter got a couple of the double-USB charger units from Mictuning, as well as the right-most two switch knock-outs to the left of the steering column. The left-most switch knock-out to the left of the steering column got the Mictuning unit that I linked you to.
That's 13 - 5VDC USB charging connectors, and one for audio input to the stereo, with a removable 2-port USB adapter in the back cargo area...and I still need more!
It's probably time to get some buck converters, and just run a separate, high current, 5VDC distribution system in the car, and route it to the rear seat fold-down arm rest, because it's my daughters who are the biggest consumers of the 5 Volt options that I have installed..
In today's era of portable electronics, I've crammed USB charging ports wherever I could in this '04.
I did find a double-USB charging module that pops directly into the spot where the 'cigarette lighter' was factory installed, with another in the round port that had an occupancy indicator--not that it was actually necessary, since I can see who's sitting in the car anyway.
The two switch knock-outs behind the shifter got a couple of the double-USB charger units from Mictuning, as well as the right-most two switch knock-outs to the left of the steering column. The left-most switch knock-out to the left of the steering column got the Mictuning unit that I linked you to.
That's 13 - 5VDC USB charging connectors, and one for audio input to the stereo, with a removable 2-port USB adapter in the back cargo area...and I still need more!
It's probably time to get some buck converters, and just run a separate, high current, 5VDC distribution system in the car, and route it to the rear seat fold-down arm rest, because it's my daughters who are the biggest consumers of the 5 Volt options that I have installed..
Well I know who I'll be asking about my new-found love of mods.
I'll be installing the USB switch next week. I'm curious as to how I'll be routing the cables from the double DIN stereo to the "audio" USB circuit? Where best to pull the 5V power for the USB charge circuit? The stereo power in the cigarette lighter?
I'll be installing the USB switch next week. I'm curious as to how I'll be routing the cables from the double DIN stereo to the "audio" USB circuit? Where best to pull the 5V power for the USB charge circuit? The stereo power in the cigarette lighter?
In my case, I had routed a couple nice, heavy gauge wires (BATT & ACC) from the under hood fuse block to the vehicle interior, for the security system that I installed, as well as for making a run to the back of the vehicle for some mods I installed back there. I just tapped that wire for the 12V needed (ACC) for the additional charger 12V supplies; but, that won't transfer over to your use case, so there is the possibility of running a dedicated accessory supply wire for the purpose, or just tapping the 12V from the radio ACC supply wire.
As to the cable running to the USB stereo input, the wire is pretty darned short--probably intended more for console use, instead of far-left dash use. I had to really dig to route that cable as straight-line as I could. I got it in, but it does automatically unplug itself every time I pull the stereo chassis out much more than 6", and I forget about it every time I'm in there....LOL.
As to the cable running to the USB stereo input, the wire is pretty darned short--probably intended more for console use, instead of far-left dash use. I had to really dig to route that cable as straight-line as I could. I got it in, but it does automatically unplug itself every time I pull the stereo chassis out much more than 6", and I forget about it every time I'm in there....LOL.
By the way, if you want to replace your "cigarette lighter", and / or occupancy annunciator, with something more useful, take a look at these two:
With Digital Voltmeter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787J862P
Without Digital Voltmeter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L72UYAU
Then there's just the USB charger version...
For switch knock-outs, with dual USB charging (no USB audio output cable):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T3CR8A
With Digital Voltmeter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787J862P
Without Digital Voltmeter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L72UYAU
Then there's just the USB charger version...
For switch knock-outs, with dual USB charging (no USB audio output cable):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T3CR8A
If you mean the USB connectors, themselves--inside the plastic housing--I haven't noticed the connector drifting or twisting at all, nor have I noticed any looseness of the USB connector within the housing, and they have been in daily use for several months by now..
If you do have a problem with what you describe, the plastic housing looks like a very easy disassembly for adding solder to the PC board and solder tails on the connector itself.
I will, however, be on the lookout for something to that effect developing in the future.
If you do have a problem with what you describe, the plastic housing looks like a very easy disassembly for adding solder to the PC board and solder tails on the connector itself.
I will, however, be on the lookout for something to that effect developing in the future.
I installed the connector to my head unit audio and the 5v lighter switch. Honestly, car makers make it so easy nowadays, it was pretty simple.
The only thing worth noting is the parking sensor on the JVC KW-M730BT. It needs to be grounded when installing so Android Aut. It's the light green wire. Mine was marked parking sensor.
Thanks again for the assist.
The only thing worth noting is the parking sensor on the JVC KW-M730BT. It needs to be grounded when installing so Android Aut. It's the light green wire. Mine was marked parking sensor.
Thanks again for the assist.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
