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2007 Camry Oil Change FYI!

279K views 151 replies 70 participants last post by  Pete1959  
#1 ·
This is just a quick FYI for all the do-it-your-selfers, who plan on doing an oil change on their Camry. I'm a newbie to Camry's but definitely not a newbie to oil changes... But I spent a few hours working through a couple of issues and just wanted to save people the hassle!

**There are a lot of mistakes I've found in the owners manual and/or ommissions. That is where a majority of my trial and error came from. So here you go!**

1) The oil pan plug is a standard 14mm hex socket. No big deal. that will just save you a few minutes of playing the "test the socket size" game.

2) Unless my Camry was a fluke, the oil filter was NOT hand tightened at the factory. I think RoboCop got a second job and tightened it! Save yourself the hassle and if you don't already have the tool, go to WalMart and get the oil filter socket adapter. And you will need a long extention arm for your socket wrench (probably 5-6in). The hole in the fireguard and the proximity of the filter to the engine block makes it impossible for anyone with normal hands to get a good grip and turn. (This reminds me, when you go to put the new filter on, be sure to rub the rubber gasket with a little bit of the old oil.. just to help create a good seal... and only hand tighten it and an extra 3/4 turn!)

3) I did a double take when I saw the FRAM Extraguard oil filter compared to the Toyota oil filter. Same diameter and correct fitting, but the replacement FRAM filter is only HALF as tall. I checked the website 4 times to make sure I got the right model number. I even called FRAM. They reassured me it was right. The toyota filter apparently has some wasted space in it... its taller with less mesh filter, where the FRAM filter is shorter with more mesh filter... so it does the same job (or better) in less space. Go figure.
(I wanted to use a Mobil 1 filter, but looked everywhere and couldn't find one..)

4) The owners manual says use 0w20 or 5w20 full synthetic motor oil. I suggest Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w20, just because I think the oil should have some weight to it. Just my opinion. I'm in Texas where we have had 39 days of 100+ temps. So I need a little weight to the oil. I called the local toyota dealer and asked them what they used.... the lady said "Toyota motors requires that on all our oil changes, regardless of model, we use 10w30 synthetic blend.." They actually use Quakerstate. Don't know if all dealers are like that, or just Texas, or just the one I called.... sounded like a company line, and she wouldn't let me talk to a technician.. so take it for what it is worth. The manual says 0 or 5w20 full syn. Thats what I used.

5) When I drained my oil pan, I let it drip till it was about dry.... obviously an oil change place isn't going to wait that long. But if you take the time, you will probably get 90% of the old oil out. Then when I filled it, it took exactly 4 qts. Not a drop more or less.

6) Okay here is the biggest mistake: Ignore what the manual says about how to reset the MAINT REQD light. Its completely wrong. In fact, the first hint should have been when it said there was a MAINT REQD SOON light. I shined a flashlight at the dash to see what all the possible indicators are, and there is no MAINT REQD SOON light... anyway, I have an LE model with a I4. If someone else has a different trim level or v6, and I'm wrong correct me. anyway, here is what you do to reset the MAINT REQD light so it will quit blinking:

a) With the Engine ON click your Odometer/TripA/TripB selector knob so
the display shows TRIP A
b) Turn the car off
c) Turn the key 1 click to ACC (accessory mode)
d) While in ACC, press and hold the selector knob in (don't worry that
can't see anything on the dashboard.)
e) While you are still holding the selector knob, click the key 1 more
position to the ON position.
f) If you do it correctly, you will see the TripA display change to some
numbers and then start blinking quickly. you will also see the MAINT
REQD blinking quickly. After about 5 seconds of holding the knob in
the display should show 0000000000000 then go away.

Start the car up, and no more MAINT REQD light until you put another 4500miles on the car!

Hope that helps everyone. Cost me 3 hours of my Saturday evening, when I planned on a 30 minute oil change. :)
 
#3 ·
No problem! And something I didn't add above, but I noticed, is the car is driving without the hesitation I had before the first oil change. Probably just a mental thing, because I know the "drive-by-wire" system has nothing to do with an oil change, but the car sure does drive alot smoother. The manual says using full synthetic 5w20 should provide better gas mileage. I'll report back on that one! :) I filled up the car just before I did my oil change... so in about a week, I'll let you know if I gained anything.

Also, does anyone know where to get a case of 5w20 Mobil 1 Full Synthetic motor oil (12qts.)? and what about the Mobil 1 oil filters? I paid about $5 a qt at WalMart for the oil. I'd like to get it cheaper by the case, but no one can even keep the stuff on the shelf... I keep getting told it has to do with Katrina and the oil refineries that got knocked out...
 
#5 ·
Netforcer said:
hopefully i'll have time to get my first oil change today. I'll be sure to ask a tech what type of oil they use for the camry. I'm going to the dealer by the way.
I did it myself on the V6, it was nice and easy no mess at all.
Filter case drain plug comes out, then the case, put element in, everything goes back.
Drain oil pan, and fill up....with a lot of freaking oil...
I used Mobil1 5w-20, dealer used 5W-30 the first tiem I went in for a free change at 100 miles...
 
#6 ·
Hello,

The Owner's Manual says to use synthetic oil for the V6? Hmm. I'm going to have to check that out. Had the dealer do the oil change for ~$26 - I don't think they used synthetic.

Is the use of a torque wrench in order to put the pan plug back on, to ensure it is tight enough, but not too tight?
 
#10 ·
Hey Fury, unless you have a special price on oil changes from the dealer included in your car deal, (i.e., some people have said they get discounted oil changes or so-many free oil changes with their car purchase) $26 bucks sounds awefully cheap for full synthetic oil change.

As a comparison, I did some comparison shopping, to see if I could change it cheaper myself, and here is three ranges I found:

1) Mobil 1 Lube Xpress: 5w20 full synthetic change: $59.99
2) Dealership (told me they only do 10w30 synthetic blend) $44.99
3) WalMart Mobil 1 full synthetic $39.99 BUT Walmart will not change oil on a 2007 Camry right now, because the car is not in the computer!!! They claim the 0w20 and 5w20 oils are for hybrids only and they don't carry a filter yet.

I found that last one funny, because (a) I showed them the owners manual and they still didn't believe me about the 5w20 and (b) they claimed they didn't carry the filter, but a quick check of FRAM.com shows the 2007 Camry filter to be the same for all trim lines, and I think it matches the 2006 Gen5 motor as well!

Plus I can tell you from experience now that it works fine. BTW, if anyone cares, here are the model numbers from FRAMs website:
Engine Type 4-2.4L F/inj. (16V) DOHC 2AZ-FE engine type?Available Brand NamePart Number NotesExtra Guard® PH4967--Tough Guard® TG4967--Double Guard® DG4967--Extended Guard® XG4967--High Mileage® with TRT™ HM4967--
Engine Type V6-3.5L F/inj. (24V) DOHC 2GR-FE engine type?Available Brand NamePart Number NotesExtra Guard® CH9972--
 
#11 ·
Oh, and Fury, yes, the use of a torque wrench / socket wrench is to make sure the drain plug for the oil pan is tighter than finger tight, but not super tight. I usually finger tighten it and then give it about a 1/4 - 1/2 turn with the socket wrench.

You never want to just finger tighten it because as you are driving the under side of your car experiences some vibration, but also heat from moving parts, and the road surface, friction etc... over time, if the plug is only finger tight, it can work its way loose, and cause you to drip oil, or worse, lose the plug and drain the engine while you are driving!

That is another reason I do my own oil changes! I have heard too many horror stories of crap oil change jobs where they dont tighten the plug, or forget to tighten the oil filter, or the use the wrong oil because they aren't paying attention, and then you have mechanical problems and they are not liable because you can't prove anything!
 
#12 ·
klutch, I use a pair of short ramps to do the oil change. much easier than jacking a car up and safer! I doubt you can do an oil change without lifting it. Here is a good example of what I use:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...|~5775|~UR6500|~NONE|~$34.99|~NONE|~NONE|~NONE|~NONE|~30.15|~NONE|~B|~TCD|~true

I think I got mine at WalMart for about $24.99. Any auto parts store will carry them. Just keep in mind the load capacity! Don't buy cheap molded polyurethane ones! If you have more than 1 car, figure out which is the heaviest (check inside the owners manual) and buy a set that will hold the heavier car. The Camry V6 has a curb weight of 3485lbs. The I4 is a little lighter.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Wizrd23 said:
I found that last one funny, because (a) I showed them the owners manual and they still didn't believe me about the 5w20 and (b)
Why would you use a light 5w20 in Texas?
I stay with 5w30 Mobil 1 in my vehicles all year through summers and winters.
 
#14 ·
Hi Wizard,

Where in your owners manual does it say to use synthetic oil? Mine says on page 381 to use " Genuine Toyota Moror Oil" or equivalent, multi grade, 0W20 is recomended for cold weather. I live in El Paso TX, it doesn't get "cold" here.

Thanks for the other Great info
 
#16 ·
Klutch: For a 2.4l, 2AZ, engine, the filter is fairly easy to get to assuming it's in the same spot and exposed like on the Gen 5. I don't know about the 3.5 since I've never touched one.

All Toyota 4 cylinder engines use one of two filters, and they are more or less interchangable. One of them is about 1/2" taller than the other, but the gasket and threads are exactly the same. Some filters manufacturers only produce the smaller size, ie Mobil 1 filter, because it fits both applications and with the shorter filter you don't have to worry about potential clearance issues. Fram is probably the same way.

The 2AZ uses the taller filter but the 5S uses the shorter one. The taller one fits also, so I just the bigger one.

Another way to change your oil without jacking up the car would be to dig a pit in your lawn. Drive over the pit so that you can get in the pit and drian the oil.
 
#17 ·
Hey Klutch, no chance with a strap wrench! imagine sticking your hand in a cookie jar, with just enough room to get your hand around a cookie, but no room to turn it.... thats about the same fit. and its behind that fireguard / brush deflector... I considered taking it off to use a strap wrench, but there is still not enough room. I would just go get the oil filter socket wrench adapter.. it was $2 at Walmart... made of plastic, but it worked like a charm for me, even after bending and warping the OEM filter trying other stuff first
 
#18 ·
Tymekeeper, It doesn't specifically say full synthetic, however if you are going to use 0w20 or 5w20, you are going to pay close to $5 a qt anyway. Mine as well get Mobil 1 Full Synthetic... I haven't seen any other oil company make a 5w20 that is not synthetic, and Mobil 1 I think currently is the only one with a 0w20
 
#20 ·
Wizrd23 said:
Hey Klutch, no chance with a strap wrench! imagine sticking your hand in a cookie jar, with just enough room to get your hand around a cookie, but no room to turn it.... thats about the same fit. and its behind that fireguard / brush deflector... I considered taking it off to use a strap wrench, but there is still not enough room. I would just go get the oil filter socket wrench adapter.. it was $2 at Walmart... made of plastic, but it worked like a charm for me, even after bending and warping the OEM filter trying other stuff first
Wow, I did not realize it was behind something. Would channel locks work?

I guess last resort would be a screwdriver though.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Klutch said:
I have a strap wrench, you think I'll have enough room to tackle it?
I used an adjustable strap wrench on mine. Didn't have a lot of room but it worked fine.

It would be easier to work off the end of filter though.

Another tip: Add new oil into the filter before you spin it on.