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2007 Solara won't start, Check Engine/ABS/SRS lights are on

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5.2K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  eah3699  
M
#1 ·
So, I was changing the alternator on my 2007 Solara SLE Convertible 3.3L. I didn't disconnect the battery because I was in a hurry and wasn't thinking, I know "haste makes waste". Anyways, that power cable touched the oil dip stick and there was an electrical power snap sound, like the low crack when hear when you connect the battery. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery at that point.

I moved on to swap out the alternator and belt without any issues. After reinstalling I used my aftermarket remote start to start the car and make sure the belt wasn't going to squeal and wake the neighbors up. Car started right up, no belt squeal and ran for about 30 seconds before it shut off. It restarted itself and did the same thing.

I was about to call it good, but I decide to start it from the key since it kept shutting off. So I got in the car, put my key in the ignition, turned the key to start it and nothing. The "Check Engine", "ABS" and "SRS" lights are lit up in Start key position. Nothing lights up in the Accessory key position. Almost I have a bluetooth ODB2 code reader in the car and it won't connect to Torque Tuner Pro to see if there are any codes.

Any ideas on where to start with this? When I try to Google Search "Check Engine/ABS/SRS lights are on", the results are for each of the lights being on, not all 3 at the same time.

Thanks in advance,

Brian
 
M
#3 ·
sdspeed said:
Double check the battery voltage.
Use a test light or meter on the OBD port.
pins 4 (battery ground) and 16 (battery positive) are present in all configurations.
Place to start.
Click to expand...
I will swap the battery in the morning and see if that corrects the ignition/key not starting the car.

Now that you have jump started my brain... If the battery voltage was low, why would the remote start fire up the car? I was thinking that maybe I blew a fuse somewhere that isn't letting power get to the ignition, but that the remote start was bypassing it somehow. Guess I should have posted that in my original post, but frustrated and tired are what got me in this situation. ;)
 
M
#5 · (Edited)
Swapped the battery and have the same condition. The "Check Engine", "ABS" and "SRS" lights are lit up in Start key position.

I did find that the 120 amp fusible link was burned out, couldn't see it last night. Replaced it with this one from Advance Auto: Littelfuse Fuse - PAL 294 32V Male 120A 1-piece Box but still have the same condition. The fuse does look different, not sure if that is because it is just updated or if it is the wrong one?

I do see there is a different 120 amp available but don't know if there is a difference: Littelfuse Fuse - PAL 294 32V Male 120A 1-piece Card
 
#6 ·
Longshot. but have you tried a different key, possibly the car's immobilizer module took a electrical hit.
It may not recognize the key or fob any longer.
Put a meter on the battery and check for a voltage drop when using the key. Need about 12.7 min.
Or go back to making sure your obd port is powering up because it only needs 5-7 v to communicate.
 
M
#7 · (Edited)
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So, I bought a $6 120A fuse from Advance Auto that seemed to work, but decided to order an $18 OEM 120A fuse from the dealership. Two things changed that I noticed when I went with the OEM.
1) the car chimes when the key is in it now, which didn't happen before
2) the ODB2 bluetooth works again, although there are no codes... if I remote start the car first. the key does not send power to the ODB2 port.

So the car will start with the aftermarket remote start, but putting the key in still produces nothing. If running on the remote start, if you step on the brake pedal it kills the engine as expected. You cannot shift the car out of park, remote start or not...

I did try using another key and there was no change.

I have gone through all the fuses in the engine compartment and they are all good. I need to still go through the fuses inside the car.

It sounds to me like something in the ignition path (or immobilizer). Since the remote start must bypass the ignition until you put the key, turn it to the run position, step on the brake and put it into gear to drive it. Stepping on the brake without the key in the RUN position kills the engine by design. Since stepping on the brake kills it while the key is in the RUN position currently, I have to believe that there is an issue in the key/ignition/security area of the car.

Currently I am going on the assumption that it is not the computer since I can remotely start the car and use the ODB2 bluetooth and Torque Tuner Pro to look for codes...
 
M
#12 ·
I know that when I had a spare key made, they had to program the key to the car for a broadcast code. What part of the system is the key communicating to? Is it the Body Controller or is there a different controller that it transmits to? I think that the power may have blown this part of the system since the key in/out doesn't change anything in the car....
 
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