I have a decent vibration from the car when I am sitting at idle at a stoplight. It goes away when the car is placed in neutral. I put new plugs in, cleaned the air sensor (Maf?) cleaned throttle body. No change.

My mechanic buddy put me up on the lift today and he said it appears the front motor mount is bad. Toyota p/n: 123610H100. https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.c...HMmaT1GODA2MDQwNCZyPSZhPXRveW90YSZvPWNhbXJ5Jnk9MjAwOCZ0PWxlJmU9Mi00bC1sNC1nYXM= Best price for OEM is $131.00 Aftermarket at Rock auto is $31.00 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5620725&cc=1441514&jsn=428 Rock auto also has a hydraulic one. I am not sure whether to go with an aftermarket one or an aftermarket hydraulic one. How do I know which one I have originally?

I am leaning towards the aftermarket one because it is right up front and easy to change. Plus there is a $100 difference.


Looking for input from anyone who has been down this road before.

Not on a Toyota but I did make the switch on a variety of hot rod projects and prefer the hydraulic type. They damping engine vibrations a little bit better and since engine torque is not an issue on your car I'd give em a try. You can buy 3 extras if your worried that it won't last as long and still have less in parts than one solid rubber OEM type mount.

 

+1 on hydraulic...will smooth it out some, assuming your rear mount, or trans mount or dog bone aren't also gone and need replacing too.
tony

 

Do these have a torque strut/dogbone mount? On my gen3/4 cars it's common for vibration at idle when the rubber breaks, and IIRC the gen5 dogbone fits and has thicker rubber, so smooths it out a lot.

Of course if you are sure it's the front motor mount then I agree, go for the hydraulic mount over the standard rubber. I'd avoid DEA and Anchor, the only aftermarket manufacturer I've had luck with is Westar. Sometimes I order Beck/Arnley mounts; every single time it's been the OEM mount (stamped with the Toyota part number and everything) in a Beck/Arnley box, lot cheaper than from the dealer. I know this isn't always the case so caveat emptor.

 

Wait, there is a hydraulic option for mounts?

I'd recommend just replacing all four. I can't see myself just replacing one 'obviously' bad mount. Unlike other things where you can just replace the bad part and leave the rest alone (i.e. coil packs), motor mounts do go bad eventually. If the front is bad, chances are the rear might be following. Also, sometimes one good mount will amplify the failing mounts and might make vibration more and/or accelerating wear on the new mount.

 

My plan is to replace the front one with a front hydraulic one and also do the upper dogbone one at that same time. The upper one(dogbone) has a high rate of replacement from what I can see from the forums. Is that because it is cheaper and easier to replace than the other ones or does it fail more frequently?

Has anyone messed around with the window sealant to rebuild the mounts? or is that a urban legend/hillbilly fix? I thought repairing the ones I removed and leave them sitting on the shelf in case the aftermarket ones fail. Only would do it if someone has actually tried it and it worked.

 

dogbones fail frequently, because they keep replacing it cause it's easy and cheap and don't want to replace other ones cause they're harder to do. it's either the front or rear ones that break first and then keep breaking the dog bones since they aren't designed to do the job of 2 or 3 of the other motor mounts...
tony