Have you replaced the spark plugs? If not, they are long overdue. That is a major job that will cost several hundred dollars at a shop.

Timing chain requires pulling the engine (at least if it's done by the book). No way would I do that unless I was having problems with it. And even then I probably wouldn't do it on an engine with that many miles on it.

You don't say whether it is 4WD/AWD. If it is, the gear oil should have been done long ago.

 

Transmission filter, brake fluid, coolant, radiator cap, thermostat, car wax.....

 

Timing chain is life of engine. As long as engine is maintained nothing else is required.

 

surprised the alternator and water pump lasted that long. good to know lol

struts and shocks dont last forever... neither do bushings.

brake fluid, coolant, cap, and t-stat as TH mentioned.
front and rear diff oil



are you trying to figure out what will break or what you may have overlooked as far as maintenance?

 

You may have a rubber oil cooler hose on that motor. If so replace it asap with a metal one. It’s a known issue, easily found by searching online. The rubber dries up and cracks, leaking massive amounts of oil and seizing the motor. If that happens on the road, you’re in trouble. Fortunately my 2011 HL started leaking in my driveway and I got it fixed before any damage. Hopefully you already have a metal tube rather than the rubber. But check into it on your car.

 

Thanks some great suggestions here. Plugs, coolant, trans fluid has been regularly changed, the oil tube is a new one to me. Is there a preferred brand of line to purchase, numerous show up in a search? Anyone have a part # for the Toyota item? Thanks! This one:

2007-2016 Toyota Engine Oil Cooler Line 15767-31020 | Toyota Parts Center

Save Big On This OEM Toyota Engine Oil Cooler Line, Part #15767-31020 for 2007-2016 Toyota. Wholesale Prices, Fast Shipping. Order Online or Call 866-596-1970.

parts.olathetoyota.com

 

Thanks some great suggestions here. Plugs, coolant, trans fluid has been regularly changed, the oil tube is a new one to me. Is there a preferred brand of line to purchase, numerous show up in a search? Anyone have a part # for the Toyota item? Thanks!

Get OEM from a Toyota dealer. With a part like that, you don't want to take a chance on aftermarket. If you're going to do that job yourself, watch the Car Care Nut's video and read the sticky thread in this forum. Fasteners are very difficult to access, but it can be done with the right tools.

 

E8 reverse Torx to remove stud? And no need to drain oil prior to repair?

 

I forget the size, but yes, a female torx is required for the stud. Also both deep and shallow sockets for the nuts. Various extensions and universals. The nut that's in the tightest spot requires a shallow socket that is not fully seated on the extension. No need to drain the oil, as the pipe is above the level of the lower oil pan. However, you will get some oil draining out of the pipe and the oil cooler, so have a pan under it.

 

Just tapping the knowledge base here for possible maintenance issues that are looming, or potential hazards. Have owned this car since new, oil change with synthetic every 5K. Air filters every other oil change. Replaced belt/hoses in radiator recently and other than tires, brakes, batteries, wipers, bulbs, this car has been awesome. Fairly regular transmission service with the last one 40K ago. Any recommended preventative maintenance items of known issues? Timing chain? Thanks in advance.

I will second the car care nut on Youtube.... Toyota Master Mech teaching us about the toyota models and engines. Then does the work on them.

Air filter..... save some $$$ hold it up to the sun or bright lamp.... if you can see thru it brightly no need to change. True for cars and small engines. I would guess you get close to 2 years on your air filter..... save $40 / year?

When you ask for help and maint.
Include the year, miles when you get the car, miles now, and how many miles you drive per year or time period. And the area you live can change maint. Like brakes in a humid area may need a brake line flush more often to get the moisture out of the lines..... it causes rust and parts fail before they should. Heat of TX, FL, AZ will make the rubber parts hard, for example my FL Solara 2006 V6 40k moved to MN 6 mo ago has hard vaccum lines, the time belt is over due on time AND THE HEAT. So this spring the top and front of engine will come off and all the stuff will be done as it is put back together. Wish my 3MZ V6 had a time chain..... my belt will need to be changed every 90K and time wise should have been changed already. Will spray all the bellows, rubber mounts, etc with this seal restore Scotty Kilmer talks about and see if can put some of the elastimores back into the rubber. Suspension, motor, mounts have some cracks but are still whole and good........ the car care nut has shown us on video what is ok to keep, keep eye on, replace. ZERO rust and is a pleasure to work on for that reason. I also have a 1994 Tercel MN Car with 230k miles and about to do the last upgrades for her winter use. Body is rusting away, but she starts and drives in 35-20F BELOW ZERO in MN Winters and is stored outside. Tie Rods, pulled out dent in ft fender, she was hit april, new calipers, rotors, brake hoses, pads, flush line, clean & repack all 4 wheel bearings. Slide pins were hanging up and not rubbing the inside of rotor fully. Original Toyota Calipers 28 years in MN. Will need to clean and assemble the back brakes, lube and adj and do some update work to the e brake cable.

If the oil tube I am thinking about v6..... it goes down the middle of the engine and was rubber. The new updated part is metal, does not fail, and is a long term fix vs the rubber hose. There are other things to work on when you do this and would suggest you watch the car care nut video on this also. He covers it all. Better than any of us could type it down here. I watch is videos every week. Learning more about toyota

The toyota web site has a digital owners manual and maint for your Toyota also
This is where I learned 3mz time belt can go 90K before changing and prior I thought it was 60K miles... big difference
At 60k miles interval may have changed the time belt in FL before my 1400 mile trip to MN... I took a chance?
Here is the toyota link for digital manuals

Toyota Manuals and Warranties | Toyota Owners

Find everything you need to know about your Toyota in the Manuals & Warranties from Toyota Owners.

www.toyota.com

They have a book you can print with what stuff needed to be done with miles and months.

2x per year or so after you clean windshield..... take a soft cotton cloth like a old T shirt put some rubbing alcohol on the rag and gently wipe the rubber wiper down. Removes the road oils and grime and they will work better. Let them stand verticle on arms till dry. Same if you expect freezing rain conditions, stand the wiper arms up so the rubber does not get frozen to the window and you may tear the rubber trying to get the ice off the window and free the wipers from the window.

Guess who has some good video on the auto trans fluid changes.... some auto models have front differential fluid to change also while some do not. More to learn. I would do one dump with pulled plug at 40K and refill with the same amount.... capture hot fluid carefully, measure it carefully and put the same back in. I know my 3mz and 5 speed auto were VERY ODD when measuring the auto trans fluid level. MY fluid capture pan spilled when i did mine... oh no....so I put in what read a plug pull would let out 3.5 qts. I read high and very touchy compared to other cars owned. Found & read toyota needs to be very hot an lot of hwy miles to get the foam/air and to get the proper reading.... so capture of hot old fluid and measure is very important for the 1st time at min. After running 30 hwy miles in summer 80-85F PLUS other driving.... Parked on level parking lot, ran thru all gears, put back in park, and measured and put in small amounts 1/4 quart till got to full line.....

BACK UP A BIT IN TIME....my dip stick was reading very full, very full, so I siphoned some out the dip tube, cking and reading and... Drove the toyot around and got it hot, but not the hwy driving of 30 miles or so. I took out 1.5 quarts via the siphon because it was reading very high, I spilled the drain container & did not measure the removed amount but could guess with spilled? & measured amounts. I should have been close with 3.5 but read like a inch high. So I took 1.5 qts out. After hot & hwy 30 miles... I was low by the knotch.... i guess this was 1 qt low the engine oil dip stick between low/full is 1 qt. So I added .75 qt of fresh Toyota type 1V. Buy the Toyota Trans Fluid online with a search and is competitive or was this summer 2022. Wrote down the .75 quarts, along with what I removed, along with what I put in 3.5 quarts. Added 1/4 to 1/8 quart of type IV till I got to full again..... I put a small box, funnel, 2 quarts Type IV and when I drove around got closer and closer to FULL. It was the 3.5 to 3.7 quarts I have read about this trans. The angle of car when you do your work makes a difference. MY Solara 40k 17 yrs old from mfg date, would grab at stop signs and lights...... trans was pushing car..... after trans fluid change car was smoother stopping and was less "grab" to keep going by trans. I also pulled nearly 2 qts out via the siphon after the car was run 100 miles or so... it was better color also. You can keep some fluid in a small glass jar for ref of removed fluid via clear red new fluid. good ck to see what you or shop pulled out of trans.

Readers YOUR trans & model is different and I did not ck the OP model & trans. The New toyotas have inverted tube in the trans pan that act like the overflow stand pipe in your toilet tank. Called a sealed transmission with a never change trans fluid that is good for life of car........ do not believe this...... change your trans fluid. Sealed Trans Needs to be measured level at a specific temperature / expansion of like +- 2 deg F, can use the scan tool or IR Temp Measurement device, I think the dash display can tell when the temp gets to set point and you pull the plug again to let the excess trans fluid out.... or start over adding more fluid. Guess what car care nut did well with this one also.

Cars I plan on keeping.... I put a strong magnet in the drain plug of engine oil and transmission and differential.

The 2006 solara trans and differential share the same trans fluid and only need to dump the trans pan plug. This is what I read and will do more research for this summer where trans plug will get pulled. Maybe the differential plug needs to pulled to get a little more out. Trans has grit from the friction plates but the fluid is slippery...... this is a give and take..... reason we take a chance when changing a 200k mile trans and do not know the history..... we could make a problem.

Please let me know if you know the true skinny on the 2006 Solar SE 3mz V6 and 5 speed auto trans with regards to the "differential" change of Toyota Type I4 trans fluid and if the differential drain plug needs to be pulled & filled too. I READ NOT FOR THIS MODEL 2006 Solara just do it with the transmission pan drain plug. I saw model of toyota, 4 cyl or 6 cyl in same model made a difference, the mfg year, the info was all over the place? Some just change by the auto trans plug..... some said you needed to drain and fill both the trans and differential depending on model, engine, year, trans. I was going to ask the dealer also. Of course the 4x4 is different yet.

 

2010 Highlander Oil Cooler Lines | Toyota Nation Forum

2010 Highlander Oil Cooler Lines

Hello, I had just purchased an 88K mile, 3.5L 2010 Highlander 1 owner yesterday. Looks immaculate. Upon much research, it seems like the oil cooler line is a must replace, yes? As well, I’ve read about the VVTI oil line burst on these 2GR-FE 3.5’s. Do these 2 lines need to be replaced? I’ve...

www.toyotanation.com

WebJan 20, 2021 · I believe that all Highlanders starting early-2009 came with the metal VVT-i line. Yours should be fine, but you might want to double check the build date. I'm 99% …

2GR-FE engine oil line failure | Toyota Nation Forum

2GR-FE engine oil line failure

2008 Highlander owners beware. The 2GR-FE engine has a oil line with a rubber hose between 2 steel oil lines that is failing often with no warning. It is the oil line from the oil pump to the VVT (variable valve timing). I have read many many forums and owners are seeing this rubber hose...

www.toyotanation.com

WebOct 4, 2009 · The 2GR-FE engine has a oil line with a rubber hose between 2 steel oil lines that is failing often with no warning. It is the oil line from the oil pump to the VVT …

see car care nut Youtube
approx 2 wks ago did this update