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2011 Camry overheating and cooling fans stuck on

385 views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Kick Rocks  
#1 ·
Hi, 2011 camry, 2.5L,.220K on the clock.
Just started overheating. Here is what I have done:

  • Radiator replaced within 2 years.
  • H20 pump never replaced.
  • the cooling fans appear to be stuck on. Checked all plugs/wiring to fan, they are connected/firm.
  • Replaced t-stat, didn't help, still overheated.
  • Ran engine without t-stat, removed the upper hose, observed flow of water coming out. wanted to prove h20 pump was working, rule out replacing it. Note, during this test, the lower hose got warm over time as the engine idled. The system was not under pressure (no cap, since i needed to keep feeding it water as I had the upper host disconnected to observe the flow). engine did not overheat, but i also did not take it for a spin.
  • With new t-stat, I have observed the upper hose become hot, and lower hose stays cool. Like real cool. almost as if the t-stat is not opening and allowing flow through the system.
  • no steam from exhaust, doubt head gasket is the issue.
  • recently changed oil, did not observe any thing odd in there.
  • during all of the above, the heat in the car works fine.

Would overheating and fans stuck on be related? I would think they are different problems, e.g., the fans stuck on don't cause the over heating since the t-stat and h20 pump are mechanical, they will circulate cooling fluid without any sort of electronic control.

Thoughts on next steps? This car has otherwise been exceptionally reliable.
 
#3 ·
Many questions before jumping to solutions.
  • During your time of ownership of this car, did it once work properly (never overheated)?
  • Was any work done on the car immediately prior to this problem being noticed the first time?
  • For all the parts you replaced, were they all Toyota OEM parts? If not, what aftermarket sources did you use?
If this car never operated properly during your ownership, it is possible the prior owner put the thermostat in backwards, and you replaced it and installed it the same way the prior one was put in.

Given your lower radiator hose never gets very warm/hot, it would seem you have little if any coolant flow through the radiator. It is possible your radiator is mostly clogged internally, so the little that does flow is cooled very well (as the radiator is not getting hot) so the very low flow out of the radiator is quite cool, but not a sufficient enough flow to take the heat of the engine away.

The fact that you have heat is a very strong indication you have coolant circulation within the engine, meaning the water pump is working properly.

Would be good to get answers to the questions above.
 
#6 ·
PROBLEM RESOLVED: Moral of the story, always start out with your ODB2 reader. I ended up replacing the t-stat, but that was not the problem. Nor was the problem the water pump, radiator, or a blockage. What tipped me off where a few things: after the car cat overnight, it was very very difficult to start; in fact it did not start. I opened the hood, and let it sit in the sun for a bit. Hours later, i try again to start it, this time is spluttered to life. Ran like shit. I notice, immediately, the temp gauge was at operating temp! I was like, wtf, I just started this thing. Stopped the engine. Got my scanner out (mind you, i ran the engine for 30 seconds or so), and read the live date. the ECT (engine coolant temp) was 86C. Ahhh, that ain't workin', i just started it, no way it was that hot already. So, I replaced the coolant sensor, which was an easy repair, and boom! problem solved. It wouldn't start because the temp sensor told the engine to lean out baby, i'm hot! when it was not hot.