If there is no air coming out any of the vents on any of the settings, it's either the blower motor or blower motor resistor or both. Unlikely the controls failed.

 

My husband said he checked power to the blower motor and it shows there is power. How can he check the blower motor resistor? Someone had mentioned to him that since it worked before he used a tester on the fuses that it may be back fed and caused everything to shut down. We can’t get the car into repair shop for weeks so we were hoping it was something we could check and fix. Thanks for reply.

 

BBBind.com has wiring schematics.
Looks like 3 wire connector to blower motor sub assembly with fan.
White with red stripe is power. White w/b stripe ground.
Small red wire is signal from A/C controller to turn on blower.
If there is power and ground then signal( v or ground ?) from controller will cause fan sub assembly to power up fan.

 

BBBind.com has wiring schematics.
Looks like 3 wire connector to blower motor sub assembly with fan.
White with red stripe is power. White w/b stripe ground.
Small red wire is signal from A/C controller to turn on blower.
If there is power and ground then signal( v or ground ?) from controller will cause fan
sub assembly to power up fan.

Thanks. He said the red and white with red both had power showing to them.

 

OK, if ground is good( carries 10 amps or so, test with head lamp bulb) then suspect blower motor/sub assembly at fault.
See rockauto.com for parts.


Possible quick fix, bang on blower may come to life.

 

So we replaced the blower and still nothing. Fuses all still look good. Power showing too the blower.

Any other suggestions. Please.

 

Ground from connector verified good?

 

Yep

 

The small red signal wire toggles 0-5v when fan switch off/on?
Does it change if fan speed control is increased?



Not sure at what voltage the signal wire should be.
I suppose that the signal should be a modulated one.
If you subscribe to alldata.com may show what sig looks like.


Other than that don't know what to do maybe test the old blower motor by applying 12v.

 

No

 

A/C controller may not be supplying correct voltage.
Without knowing/being able to measure would be guessing to replace controller.
It isn't an expensive item so maybe that's the route.


Does old blower operate with just 12v applied?

 

It tried when we first did it but then stopped and wouldn’t move after that.

 

"A/C controller may not be supplying correct voltage.
Without knowing/being able to measure would be guessing to replace controller."
After looking at schematic it is the A/C amplifier that has a direct connected signal line to the blower not the controller.

A/C much more expensive then the face plate controller.



A scan tool capable of reading body/communications error codes would be helpful here.
Believe there are some test you can run from the controller.

Post any error codes.



A/C control test ;
Hold down the Auto and R/F while turning on ignition.
Will show error code if any.
Press R/F again and will go into auto test of vent controls.




Regarding the blower motor test don't know if it indicates bad blower or if blower won't operate at all without sig in.

 

"A/C controller may not be supplying correct voltage.
Without knowing/being able to measure would be guessing to replace controller."
After looking at schematic it is the A/C amplifier that has a direct connected signal line to the blower not the controller.

A/C much more expensive then the face plate controller.

A scan tool capable of reading body/communications error codes would be helpful here.
Believe there are some test you can run from the controller.

Post any error codes.



A/C control test ;
Hold down the Auto and R/F while turning on ignition.
Will show error code if any.
Press R/F again and will go into auto test of vent controls.




Regarding the blower motor test don't know if it indicates bad blower or if blower won't operate at all without sig in.

gave up and took it to dealer this morning.
They said that the computer that runs the heat was blown and wanted $800 for part only. Said that still wouldn’t fix the ac issue and it couldn’t be tested until the computer was fixed.

Thanks so much for all your help

 

Ok. well dealer must mean the a/c amplifier is bad.
Since this controls the a/c chances are a/c would run if amp good.


Take their word for the a/c amp being bad and replace it yourself with discounted/used part?
Is this a auto or manual a/c system?

 

Ok. well dealer must mean the a/c amplifier is bad.
Since this controls the a/c chances are a/c would run if amp good.


Take their word for the a/c amp being bad and replace it yourself with discounted/used part?
Is this a auto or manual a/c system

.

Dealer told me this would fix the heat but not the ac. He said I’d have to bring it back after I found a used part (that’s the route I told him I was going) and had my husband install it. This part he said just snapped in and was something we could do at home.

Manual.

 

Congrats you have found a cooperative dealer.
Although DIY by installing a used part does give them an opt out of their diagnoses.


Suggest you subscribe to alldata.com or similar for remove/install of amp.
Also will come in handy for future reference.


Wonder if the a/c amp is plug and play or needs to be programed by dealer.
Let us know what happens after you change amp before returning to dealer.

 

I found a part and they will have it ready for me to pick up at 4. I’ll post back after installed. Thanks again for all the help.

 

Question; what is the component part number you ordered?

 

88650-06491 This is what is on the receipt. Not sure if that’s what your looking for. It came from a local auto store.

 

Ok, thanks just wanted verify if it was a/c amplifier.

 

Everything works now but ac still not blowing cold air.

 

Ok, making progress.
There are at least 10 individual error codes associated with no cold air.
Dealer has been right so far so best return.
They may be able to isolate to particular part for a DIY.


Good luck and let us know the outcome.

 

Back to shop this morning and it’s showing a bad flow sensor? They said we would have to replace the whole compressor cause they don’t just sell the sensor. Ugh. Gave a B1479 code

 

Here is some info if you want to check the circuit vs a bad sensor.



A B1479 Flow Control Circuit code indicates either a short or open in the flow control sensor circuit.

To eliminate the possibility of an open to the sensor, disconnect the electrical connector and check for 5 volts.

The flow control sensor receives 5V DC from the AC amplifier.

It then monitors the change in that voltage to determine flow rate.
If you detect 5V from the AC amplifier, turn on the AC and check for return voltage.

It must be above 0.3V and less than 4.7V and should vary.
If it reads below 0.3V or higher than 4.7V (gor more than 5-secs), replace the sensor.


If sensor bad then can be replaced.
Rockauto.com has UAC EX10477C Compressor Control Valve it may be the one.

How to fix a B1479 and AC compressor clutch won’t engage

Unfortunately, Toyota doesn’t seem to sell just the sensor and recommends replacing the entire compressor. However, some sources in China (Alibaba) do sell the sensor. Keep in mind that you’ll have to discharge the refrigerant to replace the sensor. Then you’ll have to pull a vacuum and recharge.

 

@Kyfan4ever
B1479 brought back allot of memories. I can predict you are on the same page as me. Dealer mentioned about changing amp as well charged me 100 to install turns out anyone can do it its plugs and play. After changing amp it didn't fix the issue. I still got the old amp if u want I can'sell it to u.

Things to note: my ac was NOT Working but HEATER was working.

I had b1479 error code as well.

Here is my thread,my journey I ended up buying new compressor had a buddy installed it for Me

Check my thread
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/...m/310-camry-7th-generation-2012-2017/1470690-camry-2014-le-ac-quit-working.html

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