The push-button start crap throws a whole lot more into the equation...but were this a normal vehicle, it sounds an awful lot to me like a loose ground or battery cable connection.

 

That would be my initial diagnosis!

 

Hello,

Detailed Notes:


• Fri - April 4 – started after 3 attempts
• Wed - April 9 – started after 5 attempts
• Fri - April 11 – started after 2 attempts
• Sat - April 12 – multiple attempts – after 4 hours of waiting and checking again – it finally started
• Sun - April 13 – multiple attempts for 4 hours – no start at all
• Mon – April 14 – arranged for tow truck – tow truck driver – hit the start button twice – and it cranked so he drove it up on flat bed and towed it to dealership
• April 14 – 16 – car at dealership – I was given a courtesy rental – a 2013 Ford Focus.
• Thu - April 17 – Gawdie (service advisor) calls to tell me I have to return Ford Focus and come pick up my car because they can find nothing wrong
• Fri - April 18 – I opt to leave my car at Toyota dealership. I go get a car from Enterprise rental so that I will have transportation. I drive to dealership and get my car and drive it around for a while running errands – because I’m hoping driving, using brakes, etc. – will make problem manifest itself. I bring the car home – drop of my puppy – come back downstairs about five minutes later and car won’t crank. I spend about 3 minutes just hitting the button and pressing the brake pedal and it cranks. So I drive it back to dealership and leave it. I take the rental back home.
• Sat – April 19 – I go to Toyota dealership again – to drive the car around for a bit. Before I leave I have Gawdie come over – to listen to the double click of the push start button. He says this is normal. As he is standing outside the vehicle. I have my foot on the brake and I’m pressing the button so that he can hear the clicking – all of sudden the car DOES NOT CRANK – with the technician standing right there. He says press it again – so I did – and it cranked up. I say, “okay – so now you’ve seen it happen in person . . .” and he responds that because he was standing outside the car he couldn’t see whether I pressed the button or not. So he basically accused me of lying. Okay. So I drive back on my side of town – go into Lowe’s for about 20 minutes – come back out and car won’t start. I play around with the button for a while and nothing happens. So I go back in Lowe’s for about an hour – I come back out and car magically starts.

April 21 - Right now dealership has it again - says they are going to check to make sure key is programmed correctly.


Any advice you can give me on how to get this resolved would be GREATLY appreciated.

You have a great time line and an honest story to tell that is well written and has all of the elements needed for the dealer and your Toyota rep to move forward.

In my opinion, a Toyota Representative needs to be involved at this point.
An advocate that understands your frustration and wants to keep a loyal Toyota customer in the fold.

If you were to just shrug this off, you will soon be stuck/stranded without any transportation.

This is an endangerment and a serious problem that needs to be fixed.
This is not a common nor is it an insignificant problem that needs to be repaired, this is a faulty part or perhaps a system failure that is creating a lot of inconvenience.

You need to document the events when they happen with a video camera. (not always easy to do, but easier if you have it happening for four hours at a time).

Be sure you always have a fully charged battery and no drains bringing your battery down.

It could be as simple as a battery with a bad cell..

Your dealer should have already checked this.

Best of luck and keep us in the loop...

 

I should have mentioned that. I taped a note to my car window - to remind me.

I now record every day using my phone. I currently have four videos of it not cranking. The videos have been emailed to service advisor - and to Ask Toyota / Toyota Cares.

Unfortunately - Toyota doesn't care.

The car has less than 2500 miles on it - when I purchased it in Feb - it already had 500 on it. I feel so taken advantage of and so mistreated by Toyota right now. My Father says I should just take it back to dealership and leave it -then let the Finance Company know and they will handle it. But I told him - that might have worked in the 'old days' but I think doing something like that in this day and age will get you an auto-repossession on your credit.

 

Just take it to your Toyota service department and get and keep the receipt where they worked on your car. Do this 3 times and then if the problem is not solved you qualify for the lemon law. Just be nice to them and get the receipts.

 

Nobody wants an auto-repossession on their credit report.

Nobody wants a car that is not dependable.

It is quite possible the dealer knew about this starting issue before they sold it to you. (500 miles is enough time for them to have experienced the problem)
This issue is not safe and to expect you to have a new vehicle that has at times made you wait four hours before starting is not something you would expect from a Toyota.

You are a loyal customer and still believe in Toyoa's reliability, but this problem has to be addressed and fixed.. It is not something you can continue to live with..

You have options and have documentation (With videos)..
Channel 3, Channel 7, whoever your local TV station newstation may be, might take an interest in your story.

Perhaps you might mention this in an email to "Toyota Cares" and see what their reaction is.

Your videos are damaging to their cause.

I am in no way suggesting this as a plan of action, but it is one of your viable options at this point.

It is better than having your car repossessed.

As a last resort you may default on the loan (doing so under your terms).

Make the next months payment up front and tell your finance company your intentions before you drop it off at the dealership..

Make it clear that Toyota has fallen short of their Warranty and have broken the contract by their ignoring your issues.
Explain that you are letting the dealer have the car back to be disposed of as they see fit..

I am not giving you this advice.
Just making an obvservation and throwing out some thoughts..

Ultimately you are the one that will have to decide what is right and fair (and in your best interest).

Read up on the lemon laws..
You do have rights..
Do everything that the law requires before proceeding in another course of action.

If you set your mind on a plan of action, review it with a lawyer or a paralegal (Usually a paralegal is availible free for your services at the court house library, they work as the librarian).

Perhaps the problem will resolve itself, but I have never heard of an automobile healing all by itself.

If the answer were as simple as replacing a fuse, you would just do it and be done with it, but you obviously do not have the ability to fix this yourself, it is not a simple fuse, but a much more complex issue.

That is why Toyota has a warranty and a warranty repair shop.
If this dealer can not fix it, bring it to the next one and document everything.. Show the new dealership your videos and explain to them that you will become "Their" Loyal Customer if they can successfully get you out of this situation..

Again, not offering advice, just thinking out loud..

 

I would go with a bad battery or cable connection as mentioned above. It is easy enough to check out, and the dealer should have done it by now. If not, report the battery voltage under load. Also it only takes a few minutes to check the battery clamps and associated connections. They have to do more than wiggle the battery clamps and say it's ok.

 

I dunno where you guys/gals are buying these cars where "the dealer doesn't care" but every time I go in for anything the Shop manager and five mechanics are crawling all over it like it's gotta time bomb inside it...

just sayin'

 

I dunno where you guys/gals are buying these cars where "the dealer doesn't care" but every time I go in for anything the Shop manager and five mechanics are crawling all over it like it's gotta time bomb inside it...

just sayin'

When you find a dealer that is willing to work with you as if you were an owner in His company, you have found a dealer that will be successful in life, no matter what the economy does..

Some dealerships know the meaning of FULL service..

When you get great service, let them know with a letter or a comment.
Learn their names (Service managers, Master Techs, Sales managers).
Tell your friends and neighbors.

We all wish we had such great service

 

I had a bad/intermittent battery on my 2012 XLE I4 w/button start last May at about 16,000 mi. That is the only thing that has gone wrong with the car. It would not start a couple times and I jumped it, then stopped at the dealer (a bit of a drive for me) and the battery tested just fine. The next morning it was totally dead, so dropped it off at the dealer and then less than 24 hours later it tested bad. They replaced it free under warranty, no problems since then.

I also had a won't start even with a jump on my 2007 Jeep last summer, which turned out to be a bad battery cable where it attaches to the starter (which was one of the few wires in the entire car NOT covered by the extended warranty, go figure?!).

It would be easy for the dealer to first swap out your battery and if that did not do it do the cable.

 

I feel for ya, as this is the same exact model I want. You need to escalate to corporate or try another dealer. Start a lemon law process if possible.

They should be checking the fuel pressure, the battery, the transponder strength, or whatever else might cause a no-start condition. I'd be PEEVED.

 

& this is why I refused to get a car with push to start technology. Gonna stick with the good old key twist & turn. Saw a Kia Optima on youtube with issues on the push to start where they had to go the fuse box & unplug some stuff & then replug for the push to start to work

 

Well 7thGenCamry - I guess you should just consider yourself super lucky when it comes to dealerships because these guys were awesome back in February when I first purchased the car - but now - not so much.

The Marietta dealership - even with my four recorded videos - kept implying that I didn't have my foot firmly on the brake possibly when trying to start the car (even though we all know I would have gotten a message alerting me that I need to press brake). In fact, initially they told me to wrap the spare key inside a foil pouch and see what happens because if the spare key is too close to car - it can cause problems. Next they suggested that something in my house is throwing it off. I advised them that the car was parked outside (to let the tint cure) the weekend when it had to be towed. Last time they suggested that the steering wheel might be in locked position when I am trying to start car. But if that's the case - since I never wiggled the steering wheel when it happens - why does it eventually start - without my having moved the steering wheel?

As I stated before this is the third car I've had with push to start - never had any issues with my 2006 Camry - nor did I have problems with the 2012 Camry XLE I had either. But I feel pretty confident that I'm starting this car properly - even though "I'm just a girl." ;-)

But back to what I was saying about dealerships - the Marietta dealership was just treating me like I was an idiot or a worse yet - a liar. The dealership I brought it from - was just ignoring my texts, phone calls and emails. I was emailing and texting the Sales Mgr sporadically - when problem started - just keeping him in the loop. When he never responded. I called him and left 2 vmails - never heard back - so I called the GM. Never heard from him. Emailed him both - no response.
Finally called the Sales Mgr from a different phone and he answered.
I don't know for certain that he was screening me - but that's certainly how it felt.
Once I was finally able to have a verbal conversation with him - initially he told me since I already started a Toyota Cares incident I should continue to try to work with Marietta service department. When I explained to him that I was paying for my own rental and they were giving me the run around and started CRYING like an idiot (I hated the fact that I cried but I was sooooo frustrated) - he finally told me to bring it in.

I finally drove it to that dealership this morning (60 miles away - but they gave me the best deal - of course now I'm wondering if that's why). The Service Manager came out - shook my hand - and told me how confident he is that they are going to find the problem. But then - I hate to be a Negative Nelly - but the Marietta Service Department was friendly and confident at first as well.

I'll keep my fingers crossed.

 

Marietta Toyota yuk I hate them I don't trust them at all and Haven't returned because of a repair they lied about back in 02 and things haven't changed with them. I like Cobb Toyota been with them a while now they service all our stuff.

 

The answers the first dealership finally gave you were reasonable, even if they were a little cold shoulder.
The responses/suggestions this service manager offered, showed that he gave your situation a lot of thought.
Together, you, the service managers and with the help from this forum, I feel your problem will ultimately be resolved.
Keep us informed as you go through this adventure.
We are all learning by your posts and are interested in the ultimate answer to your discouraging situation.

You bought a NEW Camry. It should be a fun and happy experience.
Hopefully, soon you will be enjoying a great Toyota life again and having worry free fun in the sun..

Experience is a bothersome way to learn.

Life is an adventure,
Enjoy life!

Keep your rental bills,
If Toyota determines that it really is a defective part or system failure, they may absorb your out of pocket expenses..

One last thought and just throwing this out there for the group as a whole.

When you park, always apply your parking brake first, then put it in park.
This way your steering wheel will not lock and will not need to be wiggled to disengage.

:hi:

 

Thanks Forever Corolla.

Yes - I understand that life is going to be full of ups and downs - trials and tribulations. I'm dealing with several family illnesses - a terminal cancer diagnosis - a new pace maker - and dementia.

The car issues - are just the icing on the cake.

But I digress.

The spare key, the fact that it could possibly be something in the house - are obscure - but reasonable suggestions.

I disagree though about the other suggestions - that the steering wheel and not pressing the brake firmly could be culprits. After years of having a push to start vehicle - and they know this because they serviced my other two Camry's - it would be weird for me to all of sudden forget protocol on how to start the car. And even in my videos - it is VERY clear that the warning about the brake not being pressed is not coming on. And it would if I wasn't applying enough pressure.

And the steering column thing - if the steering wheel is in the locked position and I don't touch it while I'm trying to start the car - its not going to magically unlock itself.
I have post it notes taped to my door and steering wheel to remind me to hit record each time I get in the car (first start of day any way) - and I actually narrate the entire time - "Foot is firmly on the brake. Keys are here. Key icon is showing on dash - and I pan the phone camera to show these things. Then I contort my body and angle the phone so that you can see both my foot and my finger pressing the button. It's become almost second nature at this point.

Any way.

Here are some things I found based on my internet research - that might be possible reasons. (See below)

Thanks - again - for taking the time to respond.

Top Causes of Intermittent Start problems in push to start buttons

1. Defective steering interlock release module.

2. CAN bus communication fault (should set a “U” diagnostic trouble code).

3. If the engine does not crank when the button is depressed, it could be a conventional electrical problem such as a dead car battery, bad starter relay or solenoid, bad starter or a fault in the starter circuit wiring harness.

4. If the engine cranks but does not start, and the anti-theft light is not flashing, the fault is not likely in the push button start system. Check for fuel problems (bad fuel pump, fuel pump relay, plugged fuel filter, no gas in tank), ignition problems (like a bad crank sensor or ignition control module), or a mechanical problem (broken timing belt or broken teeth on flywheel).

5. Defective brake or clutch pedal position switch (or fault in the switch wiring harness).

6. Transmission not in Park (or Neutral).

7. Defective Park/Neutral safety switch.

8. Driver does not have the smart fob with them (forgot it), or has wrong fob for the car (if they own several cars with push button start systems).

9. Smart fob has a problem (defective transponder, low or dead battery, or fob code is out of sync or is corrupted). You may see an error message that says, “fob not recognized.”Check/replace the fob battery first to see if that cures problem. If not, the fob may need to be reprogrammed or replaced.

10. Vehicle antenna(s) does not recognize the smart fob (wiring problem or defective keyless antenna control module). You may get an error message that says, “fob not recognized.”Check signal strength with scan tool.

11. Defective push button (or fault in push button wiring harness).

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

Great as this new technology is, like any other electronic gadgetry, things can and will go wrong. A common complaint is intermittent operation of the push start system. Usually the system works fine, but, sometimes, nothing happens when the start button is pressed.

On 2010 Hyundai Genesis and Coupe models, the cause of an intermittent no-start problem with the push start button usually turns out to be a defective brake pedal switch. The switch is not telling the system that the driver is depressing the brake pedal when the driver tries to start the engine. The fix is to replace the brake pedal switch (P/N 93810-3K000).

On some Volkswagen Passat and other models, the same kind of intermittent operation complaint usually has a different cause. On the VW applications, the problem isn’t the brake pedal switch, but a faulty *ignition column immobilizer module.

Other oddities we’ve heard vehicle owners complain about with certain keyless push button start systems is that the smart fob may not always be recognized by the car when the fob is inside the car. The fob may have to be moved around until it can be “seen” by the inside antenna. Others have complained that the fob may be adversely affected by a nearby cell phone (we don’t know if that’s possible or not, but we wouldn’t rule it out entirely when trying to diagnose an intermittent no-start condition).

http://www.underhoodservice.com/Art...om/Article/88547/tech_feature_diagnosing_push_button_keyless_start_systems.aspx
http://www.autotap.com/techlibrary/solving_intermittent_stalling_problems.asp
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...olla-2nd-gen-matrix-engine-transmission-forum/489737-engine-crank-no-start.html
http://repairpal.com/no-start-due-to-pickup-coil-failure-inside-distributor-435
http://repairpal.com/intermittent-no-start-due-to-failed-push-start-switch-310 (though this one refers to a Lexus)

 

they told me to wrap the spare key inside a foil pouch and see what happens because if the spare key is too close to car - it can cause problems.

I don't buy that. My wife keeps her key fob for the Camry and Avalon in her purse. We drive together a lot and never had an issue.

I had a 1984 Lincoln that would not start sometimes. It was towed seven times and each time when it was unloaded it started up. I had it to four dealers and no one could fix it. These intermittant problems are a nightmare for everyone. I'm convinced it was a loose connection in a wiring harness somewhere. I finally just traded the car.

I sure hope you get some resolution to this soon. I would be calling Toyota corporate preetty quick if you don't. Toyota lemons are not near as common as some other cars but they do exist. Best of luck to you.

 

Oh - and another thing I forgot to address Forever Corolla - about the 500 initial miles. The car was dealership traded from North Carolina to Savannah, Georgia. My dealership sent a courier to Savannah to get it for me.

I know all this because initially they told me the car was being traded from Savannah had 22 miles on it and it would have an additional 200+ once they drove it up here. But when it got here it had over 500 - so after digging around they determined it had been traded from North Carolina just a week earlier.

Note to arh - Yes - that's exactly what some others said - but I tried it any way.

I LOVED my last Camry - it was a fully loaded 2012 Toyota Camry XLE with a V6. Leather seats, navigation, wood trim - beautiful car. A gift from wonderful Dad. A co-worker ran a stop sign and T-boned me, knocking me into a vehicle that was idling on the other side of the intersection. It shattered the radiator, practically knocked the transmission out of the car - so of course it was totaled. So I was NOT prepared for this nightmare. I admit - before this - I had an almost blind-like faith in Toyotas.

Also - for the folks that reference the Lemon Law. I'm not sure the Lemon Law applies to me because on the Georgia consumer website - it appears that the Lemon Law applies to unsuccessful repairs. If the dealership hasn't actually determined that there's anything wrong with the vehicle and made the repair - I'm not sure the Lemon Law statute applies here.

And if I try to trade this lemonesque vehicle in - I'm probably going to lose money on the trade in - but at this point - just for nuisance value - I'd probably just accept it - but I'm thinking any dealership I go to is going to dig in to find out why I'm trading in a car I've only had for less than two months. Dealerships can't refuse a trade can they?

By the way - is there a way to upload video here? Let me check.

 

Is there a way to upload video here? Let me check.

You'll have to Youtube it & post a link.

There are completely unhelpful dealers out there - I've found 3 in our area so far and one that is excellent. Is there another in your area?

 

Yes. There's probably at least a dozen Toyota dealerships in metro Atlanta.

I just figured that they are all going to do the same types of testing.

I took it to Marietta initially because I live in Marietta.

Now it's at the dealership I purchased it from - took it there because I'd hoped they would be more invested in getting this resolved.

 

Losing money, by trading in your Camry..

If you take it to the original dealer, tell them they are right, there absolutely is no problem with your Camry's push to start button, but, please allow you to trade for another Camry (Same year and options), asking them to be gentle and explaining that you willing to take a reasonable depreciation hit if they will play nice and be fair.

Explaining that you realize that you have had this car two months and you yourself have put 2,000 miles on it.

Ask "Toyota Cares" to work with the dealer to set up an exchange.
There are real costs involved in trading, but if there is a loop hole around many of the charges (like a buy back) you would be very grateful if they could find a way to make this happen..

Note: Ths will actually cost you quite a bit out of pocket, but perhaps Toyota America will be somewhat generious, making the trade seem like an upgrade (Super deal on the next level, like a Hybrid for the price of an XLE or an Avalon).

In reality, none of that is ever going to happen..
The only reality is: Your problem is real.
If Toyota is reading this, please PM her in the background and work with her to resolve this issue.

dabrisbon bought a very nice Camry and would love to enjoy the peace of mind that comes from buying a Brand New Toyota.

Give her that peace of mind.. It will go a long way, as many members are involved and are supportive of her cause..

 

steering wheel lock

Happened to me a couple times, Hard to explain but for me it was when the steering wheel was locked. You know right at that point the steering wheel locks and you can hardly move it. I had to muscle the steering wheel and move it just an inch and the car started.

 

Thanks Forever Corolla.

dpotvin - each time the car has magically cranked - it did so without my having touched the steering wheel.

In fact - when problem first started - if I had a problem started it - hitting the button just one time would make it crank.

The problem has progressed now to the point where - on the days it gives me problems - you can hit the button twenty times and it just isn't going to crank. Until its good and ready.

If it happens again - I can try twisting the steering around - but I'd be surprised - albeit presently surprised - if this is the culprit.

Thanks again guys - I'm off to my Aunt's funeral. :-(

 

There's a statement in the owner manual somewhere that said if your car doesn't not start when pushing the button you can place the remote with the Toyota emblem side next to the button and push. Somehow it reset itself?

Lemon law only applied to new car that what I was told a long time ago, he bought it used with 2500 miles.

As for Toyota that doesn't cares...Few days after the bought my car I noticed the MPG gauge hasn't move for 3 days..I'm thinking it should move like on BMW that swip back and forth so I took it back to the dealership. They got 2 service technican and a service manager and the saleman there to assist me within 5min. They brought out a new Camry and one that had 5k miles to show me that it take time for the needle to move. I only had 60 miles at the time. I was so embrassed...but they did not make me feel bad in anyway. BTW what a waste of space in the cluster for a indicator that you can check in two different places.

Anyway, Toyota want you to be happy with the products and services. No dealership want a bad reviews that will hurt their business. There alway two side to a story.

 

My wife had a no start incident. I apparently had to do with the steering wheel. She sits close to the wheel and tends to turn it some when getting in and out. With some prompting, she looked in the owners manual and it listed the steering wheel position as a possibility, and to hold the key fob close to the start switch then push the start button That was a stretch suggesting she look in the manual, she did and it worked. Helps to read the manual.
Could this be the cause for some of these no starts? Next time it won't start, try turning the steering wheel and / or holding the key fob next to the start switch.

 

Next time it won't start, try holding the key fob next to the start switch.

This is recommended for a low battery in the FOB. With a good battery this is not necessary. I hope she or the dealer has changed the battery. The car comes with 2 FOBS, I wonder if they both do the same thing. If both cause the problem there is a problem in the cars system. I rather doubt it is the steering wheel since she is having this so often. She said she had a 2012 and never had this issue so I would tend to think it is not her fault.

 

Thanks - for all the responses.

I actually already changed the battery in the key fob. And a few times when its done this - i stuck the fob right up against the start button. All of these were acts of desperation because

1) the little green icon shaped like a key shows up - and the message 'key is not detected' does not ever appear

2) the radio, interior lights, dash - all that stuff comes on

So I'm fairly confident that the key is being recognized.

Question for "Toyo_Camry2014" - what do you mean there are two sides to every story?

I've had this car since Feb 20, 2014. I've had it at the dealership 4 separate times. Even going so far as to leave it there for a full week and incur out of pocket costs to rent a vehicle myself after 3 days.

I haven't given any bad press to the dealership - even in this forum. In fact - I've gone out of my way to NOT name the 'purchased from' dealership or the city they are located in.

I came to this forum with the hope that someone else had experienced the same problem and gotten it resolved - so I could follow suit.

I'm going back to them today to get my car back. I'll speak to them about a trade in. I can't keep going out to the car every morning not knowing whether its going to crank. And I don't feel safe driving it around for fear that if it is the alternator or starter - it's going to shut off while I'm driving and cause steering column to lock up on me.

 

You need to talk to the factory service rep., or contact Toyota through their web site or by phone.
In the manual, it describes an emergency start function, that involves holding down the start button for 15 seconds, while in the accessory mode. Have you tried it?

 

RobertN
You might be on to something.
I got the car back from 'purchased from' dealership on Saturday.
Sunday - started fine.
Monday - no start - hit button no start. Steering wheel was straight - and locked steering wheel icon was not lit up. On a whim - I turned it to the left (easily) and car started.
Tuesday - no problems.
Today - Wednesday - no start after first button push. Steering wheel was straight. I turned the wheel to left (this time - oddly enough it was hard to turn) and car started right up.
I went back and looked at all my videos (4 of them) with car not starting - and on at least two of them - I can see very clearly that my legs and wrists are not touching the steering wheel (inadvertantly bumping it) and one hand is holding the phone while the other hand is touching the start button.
So even though the last two times seem to indicate that this is a steering wheel problem - I still can't figure out why -it starts some time WITHOUT me having to shimmy the steering wheel.
Unless its the slight motion of the vehicle from me just moving around in it that causes it to 'unlock.'
It's just so odd.
And add to that - that both times its done it this week - the steering wheel is fully straight - and I only made a point of doing this because of the comments from you great guys and gals about how it could POSSIBLY be the steering column.
Its as though I need to make sure the wheel ISN'T straight when I park.
Also - thanks for the tip about holding start button for 15 seconds - I looked in the manual - but I didn't see that.

Note to arh - I tried both key fobs - dealership service dept suggested this - and it happens with both fobs. And they said they reprogrammed the Master key as a precautionary measure. Last dealership said they tested my car's battery 81 times.
I really wish there was a way to upload video here!

 

RobertN
You might be on to something.
I got the car back from 'purchased from' dealership on Saturday.
Sunday - started fine.
Monday - no start - hit button no start. Steering wheel was straight - and locked steering wheel icon was not lit up. On a whim - I turned it to the left (easily) and car started.
Tuesday - no problems.
Today - Wednesday - no start after first button push. Steering wheel was straight. I turned the wheel to left (this time - oddly enough it was hard to turn) and car started right up.
I went back and looked at all my videos (4 of them) with car not starting - and on at least two of them - I can see very clearly that my legs and wrists are not touching the steering wheel (inadvertantly bumping it) and one hand is holding the phone while the other hand is touching the start button.
So even though the last two times seem to indicate that this is a steering wheel problem - I still can't figure out why -it starts some time WITHOUT me having to shimmy the steering wheel.
Unless its the slight motion of the vehicle from me just moving around in it that causes it to 'unlock.'
It's just so odd.
And add to that - that both times its done it this week - the steering wheel is fully straight - and I only made a point of doing this because of the comments from you great guys and gals about how it could POSSIBLY be the steering column.
Its as though I need to make sure the wheel ISN'T straight when I park.
Also - thanks for the tip about holding start button for 15 seconds - I looked in the manual - but I didn't see that.

Note to arh - I tried both key fobs - dealership service dept suggested this - and it happens with both fobs. And they said they reprogrammed the Master key as a precautionary measure. Last dealership said they tested my car's battery 81 times.
I really wish there was a way to upload video here!

Based on this I wonder if the steering wheel lock/switch may be out of adjustment. I never touch my wheel and have never experienced a no start. Ask the dealer if there is an adjustment they can check on the wheel/lock system.

 

Did you ever resolve this problem? My car is doing the exact same thing and I' also being told that they have to replicate the problem before they can begin to diagnose it.... HELP

 

OMG, you probably bought her car....
I bet she traded it in and you are the lucky winner..