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2015 Toyota Camry SE Six Speaker Upgrade - Full Tutorial

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80K views 35 replies 17 participants last post by  Daryl Shaub  
#1 · (Edited)
I finished all (six) speaker upgrades on my 2015 Camry SE. The installation took me about 8 hours totally. This tutorial should work for all 2012-2015 Camry model as well. I will copy some of the other TN posts and Youtube videos here to make it more complete. Credits all go to the OP. My thoughts about this upgrade is at the end. :) ENJOY!

Added: Simple AMP Installation on post 9

First, all stuffs I purchased. These items are very standard, so I will not provide links.

From Walmart.com site to store
Pioneer TSA878 3.5" 2-Way Speaker (Dash speaker)
Pioneer TS-A1685R 6.5" 4-Way Speaker (Door speaker)
Pioneer TS-A6975R 6" x 9" 3-Way Speaker (Rear speaker)
Dap 00694 Silicone Rubber Auto/Marine Sealant (For speaker/adapter sealing, you can ignore this if you don't want to seal speaker to the adapter, the screw connection is strong enough)

From Ebay:
Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wire Harness Adapter x2 (Connects door&rear speakers to stock connector)
Metra 82-8150 Speaker Adapter (Door speaker adapter)
Metra 81-4300 Universal 5.25" or 6.5" Car Speaker Baffles (For door speaker water proof)
Install Bay BB99 400hz Bass Blockers (For dash speaker)
10sqft GTMAT PRO 50mil 4" Width Audio Deadener (Door and rear dash sound deadening)
12 pc Auto Pry Tool Kit

From car-speaker-adapters.com:
Rear speaker adapter from this link: http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK054

From ACE store:
Heat shrink butt wire connectors
Wire terminal connectors, 12-16 male, 16-22 female, because some wire are thinner, the plug are 0.25 inch in width
Electric tape

Tools you need:
10mm Socket wrench
Wire Crimper
Pliers and lighter for the butt connectors
Auto Pry Tool

All speakers I used, no fitting issue.
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For dash speaker:
The dash grill is very easy to pop out, the are two clips at the steering wheel side, just pop out and slide them toward the steering wheel. Thanks to OmoPastor, here is a more detailed post about dash speaker installation on 2015 Camry. I will just borrow one pic:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...um/310-7th-generation-2012/1020786-2015-camry-hid-led-lighting-upgrades-12.html

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My installation: use the connectors that come with the speaker, here is the connection map.

Speaker --> stock connector --> Butt connector --> Bass blocker --> 16-22 Female wire terminal --> 12-16 male wire terminal

For the negative input, you just pass the bass blocker, here is my setup.
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For the door speaker:
The door panel removal is basically same to the 2012-2014 Camry, Here is the video, I will mention the difference after you watched the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLGD2l7GicM

1.On the hinge side of the door, remove this small piece first, no need to remove the whole corner panel as show in the video.
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2.Remove the cover behind the lock handle, the window switch panel and the arm rest as in the video

3. start from the bottom at the hinge side pull out all the clips. One thing to notice is shown in the picture, You can see one clip there from the arm rest hole. Use some tools to pop out the clip there, that part is very weak, make sure your force is applied to the clip directly so don't break the clip holder or rip your door panel in two parts.:laugh:
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The weak clip holder on the door panel
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Then everything else just follow the video.

For the front speaker assembly, I put them together as in the following pics
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For the rear speaker:
Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op5ZBOB7pZQ&feature=youtu.be
and Another helpful TN post by dyapanis:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/954665-rear-speakers-installation.html

The removal procedure is same as show in the video, I just post some pictures of the removed part so you know where to apply force. The Driver side pillar and two side panel pics: Notice the red clip, you need to open some gap then slide your hand (or tool, I have a small hand) in to apply a large amount of force on them directly to pop them out. then slide them to the front of the car because you see there is another small piece at the sharp corner which lock it into the rear dash.
Driver side pillar:
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Driver side panel:
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Passager side panel
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then remove the center break light, Push it backward then slide to the right, disconnect it from the connector, here is the parts:
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After the break light, is the rear dash, fold your rear seat, from the seat side, lift the rear dash a little bit, then use your hand again to apply force directly to the three white clips as shown in the following figures, they are very easy to pop out, If you apply force directly to the dash, you may end up rip the white clip off from the dash as said in the aforementioned post, but you can glue it back on anyway:
Three white clips:
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Close up of the clip
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After remove the dash you can upgrade your rear speaker:
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After the upgrades:
Like everyone else here upgraded their speaker, the first thing you notice is much better high and mid range sounds, you do lost some bass, but those are terrible vague bass comes with the stock speaker and it somewhat covered up your highs and mids. By setting the bass in HU to the max, you get about 50% bass back.

After using this setup for a while, I am still not happy with the missing bass. The bass I got is kind of like the strike on a tight drum instead of a boomy sound, this may indicate the speaker is lacking power, so I decided to add an amp to the system. The information is on post 9

If you don't want add amp, just replace the speakers is OK, the treble and mid range sound quality is not that bad compared with my friend's harman/kardon speaker on a Mini Countryman. But if you want good quality highs and mids, and don't want to lose all the bass, the best option would be just replace the front speaker.
 
#7 ·
Very nice write up! I ended up doing all 6 speaker replacement in my SE also but did it slightly different. I did all JL Audio 3.5 for dash, zr800cw 8" mids for front doors and c2-690tx in rear deck! All powered by 2 JL audio xd400/4v2 it sounds amazing!

Let me ask u, I get a little rattle from front passenger door, when I take the door off there's no rattle so I don't think it's the speaker, so do you have this issue?
 
#8 ·
Let me ask u, I get a little rattle from front passenger door, when I take the door off there's no rattle so I don't think it's the speaker, so do you have this issue?
Your build is great!!

I do have rattle on both of my front doors at certain frequency. My solution would be just open the armrest penal on the door, then squeeze some old cloth (if you can think of any other better material, let me know, my place is very dry so no big deal for the cloth) between the sheet metal and the plastic door panel(This place is water proofed). Just remember to take them out when you sell the car, people will be surprised if they found some underwear there.:grin:

For testing the rattle, I use a free frequency generator app on my Android phone (I think iphone also has this kind of apps) and testing it at different frequencies, My car will rattle at about 70Hz.
 
#9 · (Edited)
OK, I have added an amp Alpine-445U to my system. In shorts, I think the amp is worth it. Previously no mater how I set the EQ on Hu or on my galaxy S4 still just weak bass, now if I set the 60Hz bass with higher gain on my phone, all the boomy bass I wanted are back. For the treble and mid, I could say there are about 5-10% quality increase.

I kept the AMP in the glove box first. I cut a hole on the cover of cabin air filter in the glove box. But it get hot there and take a lot of space, so I relocated it under the cup holder. Seems OK there.

For the AMP installation:
You will need these tools to wire it up:
Metra 71-1761
Metra 70-1761
9 Conductor Speedwire
There are five feet speedwire on ebay which is cheaper if you don't need that much:
5 feet 9 conductor wire
And some wire end crimp cap

71-1761 goes to your HU, then connect the wire on 71-1761 to the amp's input wire, then 70-1761 harness connect to the stock connector that are originally connected to your HU.

Used a tap connector to get the power from power out let in the center console, the ground is connected to a ground point in the center console.

To open the HU, See:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/3...n.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/1184002-2015-camry-hu-removel-tutorial.html



Here is the AMP setup.
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The installation is very simple. Take out the air vent cover by pull it up, there are two screw on the top of HU.

Then take out the storage slot in front the center armrest. You will see two screws, take them out, twist off the shift knob. lift the shift panel.

Then two more screws, you can take out the center console storage box. Last step two more black screw on the side of HU and two more shinny screw on the bottom of HU, then you can take out the HU.

I do get some noise like others do. Not tons of noise though, if I turn the fan to 2 levels up with engine off and at a very quiet place, the fan can totally cover up the pink noise.

Also, I actually can hear more background noise from the music file during the pause of the music (320KB/s MP3 files from my Galaxy S4 through Bluetooth). Anyway, I guess I can live with this noise.

Also, it would be better to set the gain as high as possible because the HU REAAAAALY cut the bass if you turn up the volume. Here is my test:
HU 49/60 volume, amp gain at 0% == Weak bass.
HU 10/60 volume, amp gain at 100% == Tons of bass + Tons of noise
 
#11 ·
#12 ·
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^^

Now just looking at the housing tells me the OEM speaker was Mid-Bass unit paired with the dash unit for highs and upper mids.

With all that room there on that housing, I wouldve opted for a mid bass speaker vs the typical full range which provides marginal bass. Now you have mids and high's coming from the dash and the door.

Looks like theres room for a 6x8 (9) with some cutting. The 6x8 should give better bass response over a full range 6.5. Especially if its designed for mid-bass.

Adding an amp to the 6x8 and 6x9 should clean up the signal at louder volumes.
 
#13 ·
With all that room there on that housing, I wouldve opted for a mid bass speaker vs the typical full range which provides marginal bass. Now you have mids and high's coming from the dash and the door.


Ha! It looks as though I'm about to do basically the same configuration as the OP. Of course, all of this stuff is very subjective and based upon personal preference, but I personally like to hear more of the low-mids and low-end coming from the rear of the car as opposed to hearing it shooting at my shins while I'm driving. I guess I've just become accustomed to hearing things this way from my last car, and my XSE's stock rear speakers are really weak in this regard. I really tend to think that the important thing is to have a broad, but clean balance of the frequency range regardless of where it comes from.
 
#20 ·
I wanted to give a reply of appreciation. Thanks very much for the step by step tutorial. It truly helped me replace all six speakers in my 2014.5 Camry SE.

I bought front door and rear deck 6x9 adapters from car-speaker-adapters.com. From Amazon, I purchased two pairs of Pioneer TS-A6975R 6x9's, a pair of Pioneer TS-A878 3.5's, two sets of Metra 72-8104 speaker connectors and a plastic trim/molding tool set. I picked up butt connectors from RadioShack and used the speaker wires that came with the speakers for connecting the 3.5's. The instructions were perfect.

I love the sound now. So much tighter and crisper. Yeah I had to turn the bass up a little but the bass is accurate now. This is my third car in 15 years and I've upgraded the speakers from stock in every one. Always worth it. I miss the sound from the Alpine deck in my previous car though. Definitely cleaner than the Toyota head unit.
 
#22 ·
I miss the sound from the Alpine deck in my previous car though. Definitely cleaner than the Toyota head unit.
Yeah, the head unit is the one thing I've been really torn about replacing. All of the audio geeks I've spoken with in recent weeks have all said that I should replace the HU, but with all the features built into mine (nav, Bluetooth, etc., etc.), I'm having a difficult time going that route. Still, it seems that if we want the ultimate sound system in our vehicles, it's really the only way to go. I just hope that my system will end up being a good tad above average with the stock HU, but again, I guess we'll see.
 
#21 ·
Well, my six-speaker installation has gone in a different direction than originally planned. I have now installed the Pioneer 6x9 two-ways in the rear deck, but the doors and dash will get outfitted with a pair of Focal PS 165v component speakers which will all be powered by an Audison AP8.9 bit processor/amplifier. I'll have to admit that I've had my doubts about running the Audison unit since it doesn't have an abundance of power built in but, on the other hand, it does have eight channels that'll allow me to run an entirely active and EQ'd system to each speaker, thus eliminating the need for any passive crossovers. I don't run my system particularly loud, either - just moderately loud and clean - so hopefully it'll fit the bill. I guess we'll see once I get things installed within the next couple of weeks or so. If anyone has any experience with the Audison AP8.9 bit unit, I'd certainly be open to hearing any feedback on it, especially when considering that there doesn't seem to be very many of them being used in the U.S.

And, thanks once again to HHAH for this thread! It's been really helpful so far, and I'm sure I'll be looking back here again and again once I tackle the door and dash installations!
 
#23 ·
Focal performance

I am going to do a thread on the upgrade I am doing to the speakers.
I am using all Focal speakers. I have had great cooperation from both Crutchfield, and Focal customer support. WARNING: The 690TOY speakers from focal do not fit in the 2015 camry xse.

I really did not want to go with 6.5" in the door. The custom adapter from
http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/ are the only ones that worked I tried the Metra and scoche. The adapter for the door, and rear deck work well. http://www.car-speaker-adapters.com/ is making me a custom tweeter mount because of the model year change for the 15 camry, the adapters from Metra, Scoche, and tacotunes do not fit. I will be doing a whole thread in a few days.

I may do with the AVIC 8100, but I need to do the speakers either way, and I am wrestling with the functions I would lose from entune.

Focal speakers are awsome, I am going for a full stock factory look,
 
#25 ·
1. Through the hole, your hand should be able to reach the whole inside panel, I just cut them into patches so it is easier to take them in and put them on.

2. As you can see in the picture, I used patches instead of big piece, because the bar is in the middle, I don't think a big piece or a patch would make a big difference.

3. I did covered about 40-50 present of the inside (Not able to show in picture), I do suggest cover at least that much so you have a more solid "box" for the speaker.
 
#26 ·
I read a post on some thread on here where something was does to retrieve the lost bass after upgrading to quality speakers. I forgot what it was that they did, or who said, or which thread it was. But I know there's a way to get it back. Was it that they added more insulation to the doors? I can't remember.
 
#27 ·
How big a hole in the pocket. I have 2014.5 camry (non JBL) and really unhappy with the sound, but I would really like an upgrade for less than 100. Any Ideas?

Has anyone ever tried or heard about the Monorice speakers for car?

Maybe just swapping the front door speakers would get me a tad bit better performace.

Also, can I put on a cheap amp like lepai 2020+ ? How do I wire these up?
 
#28 ·
I own a 2013 camry le and a 2017 camry se, the se comes with Entune Premium systems with Integrated Navigation. The HU in my 13 camry makes a much better sound and I knew that HU was made by Panasonic. I couldn't find much information about the entune HU in my 17 camry se. The speakers in both cars are same model, I just don't know why they sound so different.....
 
#29 ·
The Premium Nav head-unit in your '17 SE is made by Fujitsu. I had the same unit in my XLE V6 and it sounded awful no matter what I tried - I replaced it with aftermarket - night and day difference. Later, found that the Toyota Fujitsu head unit's signal quality is poor compared to the Panasonics and Pioneers that had been used previously... this from the mouth of the head engineer at Harmon Kardon in charge of Toyota JBL & Lexus Mark Levinson systems.
 
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#31 ·
Component tweeters will indeed fit in the corner dash speaker location for your 2012 Camry.

First, you’ll need this harness adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-810.../B0002BBP7Y/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

Then you’ll need to figure out the outside diameter of your teeeter AND it’s enclosure. This part was a bit tricky for me, so I’ll give you my example.

If you purchased Alpine SPS-610c for example, for the oem mounting location you would choose the “swivel flush mount” option:
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The tweeter itself is about 1.75”, but when flush mounted in the included enclosure it’s 2” (see the lower right corner):
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In this configuration in your 2012, this mount with a 2” opening would work:
https://www.amazon.com/Speaker-Adap.../B01N2J8892/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

To actually fit the 2” tweeter enclose combo in the example, I needed 2.004”, but all I had to do was scrape the inside surface of the plastic mounting surface with a knife to achieve this fit:

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#34 ·
Went with JBL GTO939 Premium 6 x 9 Inches for rear deck & also the same make and model for the front speakers only 6.5" components for front instead of 6x9's. Will be powering with a pioneer GM-D8604 4-channel amp. I also have a subwoofer i'm installing as well - rockford fosgate P3 driving it with a pioneer GM-D9601 mono amp. Thinking about also installing the backup camera while I have all these panels ripped apart.
 
#35 ·
I've been going over a couple of ideas in regards to the factory sound system upgrade in my 2014.5 Camry and have finally made a decision, tell me what you guys think. Replace dash and front door speakers, add speakers to rear doors and replace the 6 x 9 rear decks with 8 inch subs. Not sure if I'll install just one 8 inch sub or two yet.