I just did my car's fluids today. The range is between 94F and 113F for the 4-cylinder U760E transmission.
The job can be done entirely from below if you have a pressurized container that can pump new fluid in through the drain plug bung up through the standpipe. The last half-quart or so needs to be shot in with the engine running and with the trans temp below 94F until it starts coming out, then as the temperature rises quickly you monitor your pan temperature with a calibrated IR temp reader until the temp reaches over 100F with the fluid now dribbling out. Then put the plug back in.

You can over-fill the trans by 1qt before each TC flush from the cooler line but you have to get your refill hose to fit snugly within the standpipe so the fluid doesn't leak out there. The transmission housing will vent out of the disconnected return hose as the fluid flows in.
There is time enough to go through the gears while each 1.75 qts of fluid gets flushed out of the drain hose attached to the cooler where the return hose was connected.
I was able to see the fluid entering the calibrated clear bucket while I ran the engine and went through the gears, each flush taking about 25 seconds or so.
The cooler hose removal is done in the tight space behind the cooling fans so it helps to have thin arms (I took of my long-sleeve shirt to get in there). The cooler hose requires minimal force to slip off the cooler stub pipe fitting, and I was able to force on the plastic hose from my $8 Harbor Freight fluid pump out to my clear bucket (I didn't use the pump, just the hose, and I expanded the end of the hose with needle-nose pliers forced inside before forcing it onto the cooler fitting).

Torque on the drain plug is 29ft-lb, and 36ft-lb for the fill plug (if removed).

My car is low mileage so I didn't pull the pan or change the filter. I removed the extra qt of old fluid from below the height of the drain bung using a vacuum and a flexible thin silicone rubber U-tube.
I used up 10 quarts but could have accomplished nearly all of the benefit with just 7 quarts if the same thorough sequence were followed with no fluid mixing between steps. My last 2-qt drain-out from the TC looked like new fluid so was a bit wasteful.

So there's a lot of steps and you want to have everything prepared before starting, including details like how to keep the drain hose in the bucket instead of possibly ending up out of the bucket.
Honestly this job took me a lot of hours.
I calibrated my IR thermometer using a medical thermometer. Note that these IR thermometers don't read accurately on shiny metal surfaces!

 

Do you have a hybrid? Your supposed to add your new fluid back in then close it up. Then you go through the gears with the car running. While you do this, your transmission is building pressure and temperature. Once you see that your fluid is within spec, then you open the drain plug. Allow the excess to come out until it slows to a trickle then through the bolt back in. The pressure is just as important as the transmission fluid itself. The Hybrid Camry can be drained and filled through the filled without worrying about the pressure because its a CVT transmission.You can level it using the fill hole. The non hybrid Camry 8 speed transmission needs to be brought up to temp while pressurized in order to get the right atf level. The transmission fluid expands when heated and the pressure is tied into that whole process. Just curious and maybe helping someone else out

 

thank your very detailed reply, I really appreciate it.
Can I ask where you found those 2017 Camry specifications? " The range is between 94F and 113F for the 4-cylinder U760E transmission. "

I'll probably proceed with the 1st drain at 20K to 25K . I don't have any fancy tools so I need to keep this a simple as possible. I work from home so its not going to get the avg 12k / yr use.

-remove refill plug
-Remove stand pipe and fully drain
-measure what comes out
-add new fluid ( + an additional 8 oz for balancing off during level check)
- bring fluid temp up to 94f , drain extra until it slows.
I'll repeat process 3 or 4 times within a reasonable time period

Did I miss anything in the steps?
May I ask your ATF of choice? OEM, or a better synthetic brand?

Thanks again,
Tom

 

Toyota WS fluid, bought 12qt online but you can get by with six or eight qts. since you are starting so early in the car's life just like me (but mine was a used-car purchase and already at 5-yrs-old and now at 24.5k miles.

Make sure that the standpipe it tightened in place when checking the level so no leakage around the threads and at proper height. Not more than finger tight though.

Make sure car is level. Check left-right level on top of the engine cover, dead center toward the rear as shown.
Check fore-aft level on the frame rail, should be level there.

Note that temperature readings around the pan are uneven and that the temperature climbs fast, with the checking window around 40 seconds which passes by fast. Test and calibrate your temperature reader unless using the internal temp reader that indicates when 94F has been passed (after which you still have time to go under the car and secure the plug).

 

Toyota specific Launch X431 Elite scan tool is perfect for DIY Toyota owners. It gives you access to everything on your car. From the atf thermal degradation value to atf internal temperatures, plus changing keys and every other system on your Toyota. The all windows down is a feature that makes summer temps tolerable

 

Thank you dddd. I think I can handle this when I decide to drain.
I searched everywhere, how did find the specs for this car? ( check level range @ 94f to 113f)

 

Hanging around here, this is well-known and trusted info!
The Toyota service documents that you can rent online for the weekend price has all of that service-manual type of data.
It's not going to be in your owner's manual, LOL.

 

got it, thanks again. 94F will be my #!

 

If you're using an IR thermometer, note that these can read about 12F LOW(!) when pointed at bare aluminum castings at 105F.
I tested this with a cast aluminum fry pan with enameled sides. The temperature reading on the bare-metal bottom consistently read 12F degrees low.
And I tested my cheap IR thermometer against a mercury medical thermometer. It reads 3-4F low on the enameled outer surface versus the actual temperature of the water in the pan.

Start with a stabilized (20 minutes minimum with engine off) engine block temperature of 80F-90F before starting the engine for the level check.
Starting a colder engine than that gives very uneven temperature readings at the pan as the temperature climbs through the critical 94F-113F range while many thick metal parts are heating up unevenly from the cold temperature.
Starting an engine that is hotter than an actual 90F at the bare aluminum head tends to too-rapidly heat the much cooler fluid in the transmission, causing highly uneven temperature readings at the pan that you will have very little time to evaluate versus the observed oil flow out of the drain plug standpipe.

 

appreciate it dddd.

I'm hard to shop for , so I'm going give the family an idea for me....lol (Fathers Day)

What do you think about the :
"ScanGauge - SG2 II" to accurately get an atf read?

​

 

appreciate it dddd.

I'm hard to shop for , so I'm going give the family an idea for me....lol (Fathers Day)

What do you think about the :
"ScanGauge - SG2 II" to accurately get an atf read?

​

Yes, get the ScanGauge. Worth every penny.

 

Thanks, do you install the display in your vehicle?

If so, where?

Does the wiring/routing present any challenge?

Does it look like a science experiment or like part of the car?

Does the $139 price model fit all cars or do I need to get the right one for 2015 Camry?

What all functions do you find useful? Does it handle all of the code reading?

 

I don’t have it installed permanently. I just plug it in when I’m changing the fluid. Their website gives you code you need for your specific vehicle. It has many functions, but I just use it for tranny temp. It’s not vehicle specific. According to website, it works on all vehicles 1996 and newer, as the unit plugs into OBDII port. It is fairly small and discreet, so it wouldn’t look odd to most people if displayed permanently.

 

Hello,

I recently purchased a 2017 Camry SE 2.5L with only 14K. I was reading the manual, maintenance...etc and was curious about the tranny service for much later on in time. That's when I discovered the "no dip stick" stand pipe fluid level process.

-where can I find the specs like the temp range for level check on my car? (without having to pay a website)

Thanks,
Tom

As far as I know transmission is sealed for life, don't recall any service interval in the owner's manual, and this procedure, if needed, is one for the dealer.

 

Jhn, in my 40 yrs of driving and caring for my cars, I've always given some kind of attn to the Tranny. Either drop the pan or just drain. There's a lot of very knowledgeable people on these threads . If I see the same process (explained in detail) and performed by many with success, that's good enough for me. I agree with a lot of different forum members, there is no "lifetime fluid"

 

It’s not sealed. It has a drain hole and fill hole. Just no dipstick.

 

That's the automotive industry's term for the transmission with no dipstick. If your vehicle is equipped with a sealed transmission (No dipstick), barring a leak, it's safe to bet the transmission was designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle. I checked with my Toyota dealer on transmission service, and couldn't get a definitive answer, but the service rep. did say he had a 130,000 on his Camry without a problem and no servicing.

 

Interesting thing that I noticed, after changing the fluid on my 2015 2.5 LE this past weekend.

I climb a grade on Hwy 80 that is gentle enough that the transmission can stay in top gear with no jump in RPM occurring, but just barely (not if I try to maintain full speed, and definitely not when using cruise-control (which applies the throttle more jerky than I do).

What I noticed is that the subtle engine lugging (which is intentionally reduced by pulse-width modulated lockup-clutch slipping) is much less noticeable now. Somehow the slippage has been sufficiently altered so as to make the engine feel smoother (as if it had more cylinders, or wasn't operating at such a low rpm).

I wonder how long that this effect lasts, but I'm not holding my breath because there is no way that I'll notice any gradual decline in smoothness over the great length of time that such a change would occur over.
Note that my fluid change was complete, with 3 full quarts taken out of the pan and six quarts flushed out of the torque converter through the "cooler" line. Also note that this car has only 25k on it.

I know that this transmission is program-adaptive to changes over the life of the transmission, in response to sensor inputs. Could it be that such adaptation is optimized with fresh fluid? This would at least give the best comparitive test-drive impressions during a new-car sale, which would seem to be a high priority in this very competitive market segment.

Could it be that the push toward "sealed-for-life" transmissions is because of the many ways that well-intentioned owners or mechanics might otherwise screw it up? Especially in light of the sensitive/critical fluid level, which is effectively mandated by the push for lowest hood lines, lowest center of gravity and with still-adequate ground clearance.

 

Interesting thing that I noticed, after changing the fluid on my 2015 2.5 LE this past weekend.

I climb a grade on Hwy 80 that is gentle enough that the transmission can stay in top gear with no jump in RPM occurring, but just barely (not if I try to maintain full speed, and definitely not when using cruise-control (which applies the throttle more jerky than I do).

What I noticed is that the subtle engine lugging (which is intentionally reduced by pulse-width modulated lockup-clutch slipping) is much less noticeable now. Somehow the slippage has been sufficiently altered so as to make the engine feel smoother (as if it had more cylinders, or wasn't operating at such a low rpm).

I wonder how long that this effect lasts, but I'm not holding my breath because there is no way that I'll notice any gradual decline in smoothness over the great length of time that such a change would occur over.
Note that my fluid change was complete, with 3 full quarts taken out of the pan and six quarts flushed out of the torque converter through the "cooler" line. Also note that this car has only 25k on it.

I know that this transmission is program-adaptive to changes over the life of the transmission, in response to sensor inputs. Could it be that such adaptation is optimized with fresh fluid? This would at least give the best comparitive test-drive impressions during a new-car sale, which would seem to be a high priority in this very competitive market segment.

Could it be that the push toward "sealed-for-life" transmissions is because of the many ways that well-intentioned owners or mechanics might otherwise screw it up? Especially in light of the sensitive/critical fluid level, which is effectively mandated by the push for lowest hood lines, lowest center of gravity and with still-adequate ground clearance.

That's one school of thought, however it also could be a cost saving measure for the car mfgs. who can place the same transmission in different vehicles without regard to tube and stick placement. Get this. Some car makers (BMW, Audi, Mercedes) are taking it one step further and eliminating the engine oil dip stick which makes about as much sense as selling cars with no spare tire. You can bet, at any rate, changes like this are for their benefit not yours. Also remember the bulk of a dealer's income is generated by the service dept., and as cars become more and more reliable there's less for them to do so checking your fluids could become a cash cow.

 

It is just a matter of time before people either won't be allowed to change their oil and fluids, or will be priced out of buying their own oil cheaply, or will be driving an electric car that has no oil.

This is just the march of time, and hopefully not the end of the world.

Industrial/agricultural vehicles like truck fleets and tractors will still be serviced by their company owners, with the company liable for any forbidden environmental impact.
In the "chemical process" industries that I've worked in, the solvents you buy are accounted for against what you return (in depleted or contaminated state). Oils and other industrial fluids are soon to follow.

Vintage vehicles have received exemption from emissions rules so far, but in the future it will be problematic keeping these vehicles on the road.

 

I've read several threads on changing the ATF for these 7th gen Camry's and maybe I'm over simplifying things, but why is this so complicated? I've changed the ATF in all of my cars over the years and I just do it in my driveway, no leveling, no scan gages, or thermometers. I warm up the car, drain the fluid into a large clear container, allow it to cool to ambient temp, mark level and then refill with that same amount of fluid. I do this every 30k miles or 3 oil changes. Do we not trust that Toyota put the correct amount of ATF in at the factory? I suppose if I spilled some then I might need to check ATF level but (knock on wood) I haven't spilt more than a drop or two when doing this.

 

Working backward through you post, many of us bought our cars used, so first want to check that the fluid level is as specified.

Why so complicated? because as I mentioned, the push for lowest hood lines, lowest center of gravity, and with still-adequate ground clearance. Not so easy when Camrys and Accords fight for market share selling near-identical cars.

It would be simple to specify that the fluid be checked at the thermostatically-controlled normal operating temperature. But, because of the stand-pipe level check requiring that the technician get their hand bathed in transmission fluid, a temperature was chosen that was intended to allow a car's fluid level to be checked quickly, first thing in the morning, without cooking their fingers. No doubt that many cars leaving the service bay will have to have this done first thing in the morning, before customers start walking in to pick up their cars.

Also, I'm sure that it has been a regular problem for car makers and their dealers over the years having to deal with customers that have checked their own dipstick fluid level without using the prescribed procedure, leading to unwarranted complaints of "incorrect" fluid level.
Not to mention dealing with transmissions malfunctioning or damaged as a result of a customer not following correct procedures as to 1) engine running 2) level ground and 3) fully-warmed transmission fluid.
You can also be sure that these customers of the past who (with good intentions) still screwed up their transmission fluid level or added the wrong fluid (in an "emergency" of perception only) would often enough claim that they did nothing wrong, causing possible repair expenses that who-knows-who had to "eat".

So I think that "dipstick packaging" concerns likely were among the least of concerns leading to the popularity of "sealed for life" transmissions.

 

There seems t be no clear answer. I checked with the dealer, and was told if it's not leaking, bring you car in at 100,000 to have fluid inspected. On my previous cars, with a dipstick, I drained and filled when cold then drove a week or so and repeated the procedure 2 or 3 times. Let Toyota inspect the fluid periodically if you like, and if they recommend a change it's about $200.

 

There had been multiple occurrences when the cars left the factory under filled and the clients were experiencing hard shifting when cold, flaring and other symptoms caused by low fluid level. In this case draining and refilling with the same amount won't correct the issue. The fluid level procedure must be followed during the first service to ensure the trannie will end up with the correct amount of fluid, while subsequent drain / fills may skip this step.

 

Get the Toyota specific Launch X431 Elite scan tool, it allows you total access to your Toyota.