Welcome Lopez...Always good to get write up on another bc etc install. Curious...considering where bc located, how do u go about manually testing trailer brakes before going OTR? Tks

 

Curious...considering where bc located, how do u go about manually testing trailer brakes before going OTR? Tks

The brake controller senses the trailer brakes by putting a small current through them (probably pulses). When it senses inertial braking (or the manual braking method is used), the controller sends a varying amount of current to the brakes, making them magnetically pull on the brake discs. Not being hooked up to the trailer, I needed something to simulate the magnets, and I'd read that this can be done with high-wattage 12v light bulbs. Like headlights. So I got two utility lights at a parts store. They are specced at 4.5 amps each, which I thought would be about right to "fool" the controller into thinking they were brake magnets.


I wired up a 7-pin plug so the brake controller output would go through the lights, which I'd hooked up in parallel. This didn't work, and the brake controller was flashing some kind of error code. Almost gave up, but thought maybe 9 amps (2x4.5) was offering too low a resistance, so I wired them in series, making the total resistance double what each light was. This worked just fine!



I routed my wires from the test plug I made, through the back hatch, so I can drive around. The lights sit in a box in the back. The brake controller (head unit on the dash) goes blue, indicating it senses brakes. When I brake, the controller (the head unit) glows orange, then red, depending on the strength of the braking---and the lights glow, softly or strongly in relation to the braking! So this shows the current is flowing, as it would through the brake magnets. And I can vary this amount by turning the control knob, as per the instructions, to customize the amount of braking to my liking. I can drive around imagining I'm towing, in the warm glow of my utility lights!



Picture below, showing the lights. The blue LEDs are hooked up to the brake lights output from the 7-pin plug.

 

Too late here, but another option would have been a wireless brake controller. I use a Tekonsha unit.... it was about double the cost of a conventional controller but aside from a 12V supply line to the trailer, there is ZERO in-vehicle installation required. The actual controller is in a box that mounts to the trailer tongue. The device that goes in the vehicle requires no installation or wiring, plugs into any 12V power point and is merely a remote readout and configuration device. Once set up, it does not even need to be plugged in for the brake controller to function. And since the actual controller is on the trailer, changing tow vehicles is simple.

Paul

 

Sounds like a great option. How do you connect to the trailer brake line? Tap into it after the 7-pin cable attaches to the trailer?
Changing tow vehicles for that trailer would be easy, but if you wanted to connect to a different 7-pin trailer, you'd need another box, correct?

 

Tks for info & interesting nstall & all working ok. How do u guys check elect. brakes r working on trailer? Maybe u do same?This is just a test I do before leaving my driveway. After I hook up & moving slightly ahead, I use manual v. lever on my bc (other ride/mounted under dash) to see how brakes grab. Voltage sensitive for sure. :wink: Tks.

 

I find it so hard to believe owners don't install their own hitches and controllers.. I bought a Curt hitch and four pin controller for $150 plus tax. The hitch was real hard to mount, ..... 4 or 6 bolts as I recall, twenty minutes. Tightened in place I purchased a 7 pin receptacle for nine dollars. Used the mount to attach it to the left of the hitch receptacle. Ran two wires from back to front encased in a plastic tube above the steel belly pan. Hooked them up with breakers to the battery. Purchased a brake controller mounting it on the driver side lower dash. It comes with quick mounts to detach and store in the console when not being used. Has a digital readout for setting. Number 6 is perfect for our aluminum car trailer brakes when loaded. Installation completed in one day. No problems to speak of. My friend paid $300.00 labor to mount the hitch and wire the 7 pin receptacle on his HL. The RV dealer was 30 miles away requiring two trips back to get everything working with the camper. A soldering gun, wire, tape, wire stripper, a couple wrenches, a drill and several attaching bolts completed the task.
I fabricated a hitch from scrap steel tubing as well as a sliding ball mount for our passenger car. It tows a single axle trailer with a flat four pin connector, no brakes required.

 

I find it so hard to believe owners don't install their own hitches and controllers.. I bought a Curt hitch and four pin controller for $150 plus tax

Good points, Ranch. I might have done something similar in my younger days. I've rebuilt a Triumph TR3 and worked on my many vehicles from a 1957 Land Rover to a 2007 Hyundai Tucson, so I'm no stranger to car mechanics. I know you can save a ton of money doing stuff like this by yourself. But I'm gettin' older, and getting busier along the way. This was my first-ever New Car:grin: and I just figured, what the hey, let the dealer put in the hitch receiver and roll it into the loan (got a fantastic rate, BTW, plus a few k off end of year.) The receiver comes out through the bumper, absolutely clean looking. Not sure I'd have done as good a job.
I considered doing the wiring myself--had done it on a previous vehicle. No big deal, but looking around under the dash when I pulled panels to put the control knob in, it's sure tight in there. I definitely didn't want a box hanging on the plastic...as noted, the Redarc can be mounted in any position, so I could have stuffed it in there somewhere, I suppose. And when I decided to put it under the seat, it would be even easier. But still, I didn't feel like squirming around to connect to the brake wire, or find a place through the firewall. In the end, glad I went with the professional. He's been doing this stuff for years, but said the 2018 HL is about the tightest he's seen, for getting into the brake light line. Took him about twice the expected time over all, but he only charged the original estimate.

I've done plenty of car work in my time...guess I'm just more into writing these days.
John

 

Very true about keeping active. Yes, you are far more into mechanics than I am. I'm in no way inactive. We live on five woodsy acres on an island in the Pacific Northwest. Lots of chain sawing, hiking, beach, biking etc. but upon retiring 12 years ago, my time-consuming interests shifted back to some of my early interests in writing (fiction and poetry). Also have two daughters and a granddaughter, + spouse on the island, so family life takes time. Before the granddaughter, I did a lot more car work, but she's a kick & we all have lots of fun. Still, spouse and I are working on another TR3, but with winter approaching, car work is on hold, since we have a shed, but not a fully enclosed garage.

 

I always had an eye for a TR-4. That and a 3000 Healey which are impossible to find at lower atmosphere values. A distant friend rebuilt a TR-4 which I want to see in the near future. My first car was a $450.00 1959 MGA, wire wheels and a spun rod bearing. Body shop painted it red for $35.00. Enjoyed the car even with the " side curtains " which of course needed new sliding plastic. I found Corvettes more to my liking. Parts availability and great styling. Like potato chips one is never enough. Last count was six early 60s, one low mile 75 convertible for driving. " Candy store effect ".

 

I recently purchased a 2019 Highlander XLE and after much research decided to purchase the Tow-Pro elite. The dealership I bought the vehicle from will not install the unit as it is not one they sell. That being said, I will be installing it myself. You mentioned a diode needed to stop feedback when using manual mode but I am unable to find out where to install it on the brake wire. Could you clarify the install location of this diode? Does it go on the brake wire from the controller to the car switch wire or does it go on the car brake wire switch, before or after, the location of the controller wire? Any help would be appreciated.

 

It goes on the new wire that will run from the car's brake light switch to the controller. The controller senses when the pedal is pressed, to know when to add trailer braking. But you can also push something on the controller to get trailer braking without pressing the pedal... For example to prevent fish tailing at certain times. Normally the controller will send it's own voltage to the brake lights at that time, and this confuses some cars, since they don't expect voltage on that line, without the pedal being pressed. The diode only allows current TO the controller for pedal sensing, but blocks current FROM the controller to prevent the confusion. So the brake lights don't come on when ONLY the trailer brakes are active, but this doesn't amount to much, as it's only for sway control. Lack of brake lights on this situation is considered to be reasonable since the rig isn't slowing appreciably. The diode must be installed the correct way around. There's generally a band on the diode for the negative side, which would be the end connected to the controller. Use an automotive diode designed for hitch hook ups.

 

Check this link for more info & call eTrailer.com for more details.

Redarc Tow Pro Elite Brake Controller Installation in 2018 Toyota Highlander XLT with Tow Package | etrailer.com

Redarc Tow Pro Elite Brake Controller Installation in 2018 Toyota Highlander XLT with Tow Package

www.etrailer.com

 

Can you provide a little more explanation on how to install the control-head? I plan on using the Redarc faceplate. The only unused switch location I have is in the bottom row, far right side (two slots to the right of where you installed it). However, I can't tell what I need to do to take out the blank and replace it with the faceplate and control.

 

Hey J, go to this post. The author includes a GREAT pdf file with lots of pictures of how to replace or move panel switches. This covers it all. It's basically removing the driver side kick panel, then pulling the switch panel down. I presume you have ordered the replacement switch cover from eTrailer or RedArc, that will accept the head unit? Once you get the blank out, it should be pretty clear how to use the new one, but be sure to read the pdf file!

Driverside Switch Panel Replacement

Hey Everyone I just completed the swap of the left switch panel of my XLE by moving the power door switch down to the lower switch panel and replacing the upper trim with the cubby from the LE I have done up a guide to help anyone else who would like to attempt this modification - I did it a...

www.toyotanation.com

 

BTW, you won't have to do the stuff about cutting with a moto tool. That's just if you want to move an existing switch to a new slot. The switches are "keyed" for their designed slots, so they need to be adjusted (un-keyed) to fit generically, when moving existing switches.