Hi guys,

So I have an 1990 AE92 Corolla with the 4A-F carbed engine and auto transmission.(90k miles) To be honest the auto feature sucks and dealing with carbs is a pain.

I have found a 1994 AE101 donor car that has the 4A-FE fuel injected engine and manual transmission.(30k miles)

Will it be possible to swap these fairly easily? The donor car will have all the components required for manual transmission; pedals,cables, clutch flywheel, ECU etc. Im hoping it should bolt right in or at least need a few extra holes drilled in for the master cylinder etc.

Last concern was the fuel pump/tank. Will these be a straight swap as well?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

I don't know enough about Aus cars, but the pump/fuel sending unit should be a "bolt in" but I'm not 100% sure. The big thing to keep in mind is that you'll have to replace the rubber hose bits on the car with FI hose, due to the higher pressures of the fuel system. Most of the rest of the parts should swap. However the fuel tank might not, due to it's shape.

 

The flag is UK not Australia.

In North America 4A-FE was slightly different 88-92 versus 93-95. I'm not sure when the switch was in UK from 6th to 7th gen. The most noticeable difference was in the intake and head. Seems like if you have everything including harness and ECU it would be possible. You'd need to figure out what mounts to use to match the engine/transmission to the 6th gen frame.

You'd have to figure out some wiring issues like to the instrument cluster gauges and warning lights.

 

Thanks, didn't realise the 4A-FE differed between the 88-92 and 92-95. I have my haynes manual with wiring diagrams so hopefully I can come up with something. Will post some time with results, good or bad.

 

The 6th gen Toyota Repair Manuals covering a specific year and model have black and yellow front. I think older Toyota Repair Manuals were more yellow/white, and some Toyota Repair Manuals that covered a specific transmission covering several years were different colors. The wiring diagram manuals from the 1990's had silver/grey/gray covers.

The Haynes and Chilton repair manuals are not by Toyota. They try to cover several years all in one book, but they tend to leave out a lot of details and are more error prone.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, I will check them out!

 

Hi guys,

As a little update, I want to let you know that I have bought that AE101 donor car! Had to travel 300 miles to get it mind, which is a lot to travel in the UK. I also managed to find a grey book for the electrical wiring diagrams for my existing AE92, turns out they do books for the Europe market vehicles too - result! Now I just need to find the wiring book for the AE101, can only find them in german so far... dammit.

 

UPDATE

Ok guys so I took the AE92 into work today, and managed to pull the 4A-F out! I had never done an engine pull before so it took me and a friend 12 hours in total to do. We should be a bit quicker with the AE101, albeit its a bit more complicated with extra sensors and stuff with the 4AFE. Didn't come across any major issues with the 4AF pull. We had use of an overhead crane which made the engine removal quite easy. Will post tomorrow eve with AE101 results!



So heres my AE92:

And here is the AE92 with engine out!

 

That overhead crane should make the job easier.

 

UPDATE 2

AE101 engine pulled in 8 hours! It was more difficult getting the loom apart from the 4A-FE as there were much more connectors than the 4A-F, I guess that comes with Fuel Injected engines though. Also the car body was very rusty and did not make it any easier. I am very tired and will have a break for a while before continuing. Next I will round up the rest of the components I need from the AE101: (Loom, ECU, Clutch pedal/cylinders/hydraulic lines/manual gearbox cables/ Electronic Fuel pump and Fuel lines)

The AE101:

And with Engine Out!

 

UPDATE 2

AE101 engine pulled in 8 hours! It was more difficult getting the loom apart from the 4A-FE as there were much more connectors than the 4A-F, I guess that comes with Fuel Injected engines though. Also the car body was very rusty and did not make it any easier. I am very tired and will have a break for a while before continuing. Next I will round up the rest of the components I need from the AE101: (Loom, ECU, Clutch pedal/cylinders/hydraulic lines/manual gearbox cables/ Electronic Fuel pump and Fuel lines)

The AE101:

View attachment 321745



And with Engine Out!


View attachment 321747

Nice. Did you clean up your mess yet? Looks like a good donor to me.
Look the mounts over reall good, and use the better looking ones. I don't think there's that much difference between engines, so you should have an easier time with the swap. On the shift linkage , you'll definitely want to look ever everything, as you might want to replace some parts while you can still get to them.

 

UPDATE 3

Removed ECU, Engine Loom, Clutch Pedal with mechanism, Master cylinder and respective hydraulic line, brake pedal (without entire mechanism, only need smaller pedal as auto brake pedal is too big to put the clutch pedal adjacent it), Manual gearshift mechanism and respective cables. These were all not too much issue to remove, as I could be heavy handed with the AE101 dash as I am not going to be keeping it.

With regards to the electronic fuel pump set up, it does not look like it will be a straight swap:

Photo below is of the AE101 fuel pump/ fuel level sensor unit. This is accessed under the rear cushion and removing a plastic protective cover that exposes the unit below. For one, the access hole is located in a different place on the different vehicles, with the AE101 being more on the rear left passenger side.

The AE92 access hole is more central to the seat cushion, not particularly an issue, as the fuel tank itself can be removed from the vehicle.
Note that the AE92 fuel level unit is actually considerably smaller than the AE101, which I guess is due to the lack of fuel pump. I forget to measure the difference but I would estimate the AE101 was roughly twice the size in diameter than the AE92. The AE101 has 8 screws and the AE92 has 6.

So, bit of a bummer with the fuel pump side of things. I'm going to see if the AE101 fuel tank will fit under the AE92 with the fuel pump attached, I don't have much hope, but worth a try. I'm certainly not going to start cutting a new hole in the existing fuel tank, sounds a bit dangerous to me.


Will update you guys as and when,

Cheers

 

The AE92 had a separate fuel gauge sender and fuel pump (4A-FE). They were in separate holes in the tank, and only the gauge sender had access under the seat. To remove the pump you had to drop the tank.

On the AE101 the gauge sender and fuel pump was a single unit as you found out.

 

Yup, uses 2 sending units. You might want to look at the rear unit on your existing tank, and see if the parts needed for installing an electric pump can be installed there. Not sure how many common parts were used back then.

 

Thanks guys for the response, I am going to take a good look at both fuel tanks tomorrow with help from a friend. Didn't realise the AE92 had a separate unit. My AE92 is carbureted and does not have an electronic fuel pump, but hopefully the fuel tank will have a dedicated flange or whatever for where an electronic fuel pump could have been.

 

Yeah, I'd guess that the fuel tank on the AE92 is the same for fuel injected or not. Probably just the tubes go in for the 4A-F where the fuel pump is mounted for the 4A-FE. The opening is probably the same, and you could just use a fuel pump for a AE92 4A-FE.

 

UPDATE 4

So managed to get the fuel tank off the AE92 and have a look, it was actually quite difficult to remove. Mainly because of the filling line rubber had practically welded itself onto the fuel tank itself, had to stick a screwdriver in-between the hose and the pipe to free it off in the end. Initially looking at the fuel tank I thought I was in luck being able to bolt on the AE101's fuel pump:

The lowest flange looked bigger than the fuel sender unit so I assumed the pump would fit:

(P.S, do you guys know what the ??? flange at the top is for?)

Sadly, the AE101 fuel pump can not fit on an AE92 tank, I will have to do what DrZ suggested and get a fuel pump from an AE92.
The AE101 fuel pump is still much too big to bolt on, word of warning to anyone else who attempts this (not likely, haha)

Additionally, I have removed the lower exhaust section (front of car, from engine header that then curves under the car) as this had the O2 monitor in it)

It has been very cold today, wasn't particularly fun trying to work in the snow. Had to keep the doors wide open as I was worried about the petrol vapors and having enough ventilation. My assistant was incredibly hungover and was just sleeping on the floor most of the time haha.

Starting to regret this decision... went from two functioning Corollas, to two broken Corollas lol

Determined to get this done!

 

Although, having thought about it I could see if the AE101 fuel tank will fit under the AE92. I'll try that first...

 

The ??? goes to the EVAP system (charcoal canister).

 

The very forward one is for the evap. Can you give us a picture of the AE92 rear sending unit (with the fuel lines in/out) from the bottom or under side? That way we could tell what Toyota did for carb versus FI to the unit. I only say that, as I've never seen a carbed unit, while I do have an FI unit here, and have seen a new one on Rock Auto's web site. You might be able to add a new FI pump to the pump sending unit by trimming the feed line down, and adding some submersible FI hose and clamps to attach the pump to it. I don't know if the AE101 pump is the same size as the AE92 pump (maybe an auto parts supplier can help with that?). Maybe some of the bracketry is the same, or can be reworked enough to be re-used. It might be worth investigating.

Over here in the states, I used a Dorman replacement manifold on my 92 AE92 engine. It was made in Vietnam, and has the O2 sensor location built into it. This puts the O2 sensor right in the middle of the "V" in the manifold (where it likes to crack above the sensor), rather than putting the sensor under the car. Just something to keep in mind.

 

UPDATE 5

I managed to get the fuel tank off the AE101, very rusty underneath compared to the AE92. I have yet to try fit it under the AE92, but the shape of the tank looks the same including the size:

And as requested, I took a picture for the mechanical pump fuel lines, not particularly interesting turns out:

I also drilled the holes for the clutch master cylinder:

The clutch pedal had guide pins for the master cylinder bolts, I had to rip and twist the thing metal that had been tac welded to the main bracket. I did this so I could properly mark the other two bracket holes. Its a bit dodgy, but I just want to get the bloody car working I'm not taking it to a showroom. I'll try get them welded on once I need to put the master cylinder back in.

The AE101 clutch pedal bracket didn't align very well with any dimples that were already on the AE92 firewall, I had to improvise a bit, again, bit dodgy dave but got the job done:

After marking the holes with a punch, I could see the indents from the outside and use them as a rough guide for drilling from the outside ( plenty of room with no engine in the way).

After the two bolt holes were drilled, I marked the master cylinder and then pressed it against the firewall with the two bolts poking through the holes, this allowed me figure out where to drill the main cylinder hole ( about 30mm btw) :

I also swapped the auto shifting mechanism to the manual gearshift arrangement, this wasn't particularly difficult. The hardest part was actually getting the cable grommet plate thingy off the firewall as access was ridiculously tight. I had to drill two extra holes for the manual gearshift bracket but otherwise no modifications required:

Note that the manual transmission uses two cables, and the auto has one cable. You'll need the rubber grommet and plate from the manual transmission as this has two holes in it. You could probs bodge it without too much issue though.

The manual gearstick bracket aligned with two holes already on the car floor, but I had to drill and tap two new ones towards the rear, not too hard to do

Sorry for the million pictures, thankfully we don't to worry about being 56kbs friendly anymore!

Will post more as and when!

 

UPDATE 5

I managed to get the fuel tank off the AE101, very rusty underneath compared to the AE92. I have yet to try fit it under the AE92, but the shape of the tank looks the same including the size:

View attachment 323009

Regarding fuel tank. Myself and a friend tried for hours last night trying to fit the AE101 tank under the AE92. Turns out there is slight difference in shape on the top of the tank. If you look at the AE92 fuel sender, you'll noticed it sits lower than most of the tank. If you look at the same central spot on the AE101, that section is actually raised up.
This caused the tank to sort of rock back and forth, you could get it to fit on one side but as soon as you tried to push up the other side it would rock the other way. When I attempted this on my own a few weeks ago i thought it was just me being unable to lift it properly on my own. However, it sits high enough to be clear of any speed bumps etc, but I am unable to secure one of the tank straps as the tank doesn't sit flush. Also, the filler pipe and hose are a different size between the AE92 and AE101, AE92 is larger......

I am having a right mare with this fuel tank.

I guess its probably a bad idea to "mechanically persuade" the top of the AE101 tank and flatten it a bit? EDIT: Yes, turns out it was a bad idea. Do not hit the flat seam of the fuel tank as you'll damage the weld and fuel will leak out of it.

Failing that, I think I'm going to have to resort to what Clone originally said, and to either find a EFI AE92 fuel tank or pump (very rare here) or modify the AE92 carb suction/return pipe unit to fit a pump. I've read that the AE101 has baffles inside too that prevent the fuel pump from starving. So ideally I need to use that tank. Anyway, I've got other stuff that I can do in the meantime whilst I'll come up for the fuel supply solution.

 

The picture of the gas tanks is interesting. It looks like the EVAP tube on the AE101 only actually goes into the tank on the rear hole and the front hole just holds the pipe in place. On my 1997 Corolla I noticed evidence of gas leaking onto the dust from that area when I opened up the fuel pump access hole, but I couldn't see what the problem was because you can't really see all the way up from the access hole. I could just see the streaks of gas on the dust. I would have to drop the tank to figure out what the problem is, maybe it needs a new gasket there.

Both tanks are 13.2 gallons (at least in N. America), so they should look and fit the same, but they look like the various holes are different sizes.

 

Thats what I thought to, about the front hole being a holder, though now that makes me wonder what's under the front hole flange on the AE101? Wish I had taken a look today whilst I was at work moving the fuel tanks around. So it looks like the AE101 tank does fit in the AE92 frame (EDIT, no, it really doesn't DONT waste your time trying to get it to fit, it almost fits but not enough and you'll be struggling for ages), however the fuel lines are different sizes and the AE101 has flared pipes with threaded connections on them (I guess because higher pressures inherent with fuel injection). I'll take a look for you guys and take pictures when I get the opportunity!

Unfortunately the AE101 discharge pipe that runs under the car has also rusted through so I will not be using it. I'm going to purchase some fuel hose and make up a new length to run under the car (I'm not particularly skilled enough to make a new hard line) for both the discharge and return lines to the fuel tank. I don't suppose anyone knows the discharge pressure of the fuel pump, even roughly? I'm hoping I can use barbed connections with T clamps, because I'm a lazy millennial.

Its not too hard getting the fuel tank out, but I'd recommend having an extra pair of hands and having the fuel tank near empty before dropping it!

 

Little update

I have managed to install the ECU, this was pretty much a bolt on situation, however much like the manual gearshift cable grommet plate posted earlier in the thread, access was quite difficult under the heater. I used the ECU mounting bracket from the AE101. All the holes in the AE92 lined up without any drilling or tapping required.

However, I have come across another difference between the AE92 and AE101. The AE92, being older and carbie, doesn't have a catalytic converter. The AE101 "J" pipe exhaust section with the O2 monitor has a different flange arrangement as it designed to bolt onto a cat, it does not directly bolt onto the AE92 exhaust that runs under the car Not particularly a big problem but something else for people consider if they consider doing this same swap. The AE92 has a straight-through (at least in the UK) on AE92 Carbie models, as cats were not mandatory until 1993 in the UK.

 

Click on the link I posted below.
Suddenly high ATF level after 32-mile drive The last post of this thread that Amory posted, and page 5 are pics of an AE92 fuel pump sending unit assembly, that he sent me (I was looking for a less rusty one for my own car). It might give you a better visual for what you might be able to do with what you already have (at work). Couldn't hurt.
The cat converter "fell off" my AE92 before I got it, and has been without it for the last 10+ years. Like I mentioned above, my AE92 has had the exhaust manifold replaced with a Dorman (stock aftermarket replacement) one, due to the original one cracking.It has the mounting provision for the O2 sensor built into it. Just something to think about/keep in mind. I hope this helps.

 

6th gen Corollas only had a starter relay on manual transmissions, but 7th gen had the starter realy on all models. Not sure how this affects you. It would be good to have wiring diagrams from both models to compare the differences.

 

I’ve managed to find the OEM electrical diagram manual for the AE92, just waiting on the post. I’ve also already bought and received an AE101 electrical diagram book, albeit it’s in German. Not too much of a biggie to be honest, as I’m just looking at lines and pictures and symbols. Plus google translate!

On a side note, I’m on the night shift at the minute but had the time to have a look at the speed sensors on each car whilst at work. As the AE92 has a mechanical speedo to the instrument cluster, the AE101 will not work with the cluster (as it’s electronic). After taking both units apart they are pretty similar. I was worried that the gear ratios would be different, but turns out they are in within 1% of each other. I saw in another old thread that somebody swapped these sensors over, though it’s not particularly detailed on how they done it. I’m gonna attempt to combine the two sensors into one unit, as I need the top threaded half from the AE92 (so it can be connected to the Speedo cable). I then need the bottom plastic half,shaft and cog from the AE101, so it fits into the AE101 transmission.

Below is a comparison of the two speed sensor shafts:

 

I’ve managed to find the OEM electrical diagram manual for the AE92, just waiting on the post. I’ve also already bought and received an AE101 electrical diagram book, albeit it’s in German. Not too much of a biggie to be honest, as I’m just looking at lines and pictures and symbols. Plus google translate!

On a side note, I’m on the night shift at the minute but had the time to have a look at the speed sensors on each car whilst at work. As the AE92 has a mechanical speedo to the instrument cluster, the AE101 will not work with the cluster (as it’s electronic). After taking both units apart they are pretty similar. I was worried that the gear ratios would be different, but turns out they are in within 1% of each other. I saw in another old thread that somebody swapped these sensors over, though it’s not particularly detailed on how they done it. I’m gonna attempt to combine the two sensors into one unit, as I need the top threaded half from the AE92 (so it can be connected to the Speedo cable). I then need the bottom plastic half,shaft and cog from the AE101, so it fits into the AE101 transmission.
View attachment 323862

Below is a comparison of the two speed sensor shafts:
View attachment 323863

I wonder if this (the gear and shaft) is something that could be purchased thru your Toyota dealer, or one of those companies that sell Toyota parts in Europe. You'll need an AE92 MT part, but I don't know if it's similar to the AE101 part or not. Going off the FSM, it looks shorter than the AT unit, and more like the AE101 unit in length. I don't know if the 5 speed version for the AE92 is the same as the 4 speed version though. You might have to ask around, or do a parts search to find out (Toyota parts seller?).

 

WIRING UPDATE

So whilst I've had time at home and had the electrical schematics books to browse through, I thought I best mentally prepare for the wiring job that I'll need to do. There's a fair amount to do, but nothing too crazy:

2022 EDIT: No you dont need the AE101 fusebox specifically - you can use either the AE92 box (better in my opinion) or the AE101, you'll have to rewire them slightly differently.

Option 1 : You keep the AE92 Fusebox, this saves you having to alter the wiring associated with the car body i.e, plugs 2A,2D,2E (hazard lights, headlights, horn etc) but means you'll have to alter the wiring for the engine itself (Plugs 2B, 2C). Thankfully, the 4A-F Fusebox still contains all the EFI related relays etc. in it, despite not really using them in the same way. The AE92 fuse box also fits the engine bay correctly.

Option 2 : You use the AE101 fusebox, this is what I did back in 2020, with success. However to be honest I did not do a very good job of it, the wiring is comparable to that of a 17 year old's shitty wiring his first subwoofer in the boot of their car. My wiring eventually fell apart as it was badly crimped and not done using the proper tools, I'm now in the process re doing the original wiring loom, which was long overdue. I've created a table to compare the two fuseboxes so you have all the information you need to use one or the other.



The Fusebox in the engine bay adjacent the battery is referred to as fuse box 2 in the OEM manuals. It has plugs from the engine wiring harness, and also plugs from the AE92 body harness (which wires run along the inside of the front wing) attaching underneath. The plugs attached to the engine wiring harness itself can be ignored, as I will be using the AE101 engine harness. However, the AE92 body wiring plugs will need to be adapted so they fit in the AE101.

Note the info below is based on a European market 4A-F RHD vehicle, the wiring may be different for LHD

One the AE92, plugs, 2A, 2D and 2E are part of the AE92 body harness, and 2B, 2C are part of the AE92 engine harness.

On the AE101, plugs 2A,2B,2C,2D are part of the AE101 Body harness, and 2E,2F and 2G are part of the AE101 Engine harness.
So looks like these plugs are mainly for car features which can be used without the engine running, such as headlights and horn. This makes sense given their location.
I cannot, for the life me find out what the single plug 2E (on AE92) and 2B ( on AE101) do. The only reference I can find to them, is for a 2C Engine Corolla, and it goes to the main heater. I cannot find anything on those plugs on the 4A-F, 4A-FE. If anyone can tell me it would be hugely appreciated.

AE101 Fusebox to AE92 Fusebox Comparison

AE101 Fusebox						AE92 Fusebox equivalent
Plug	Pin				Info	Car Body or Engine loom?	Plug	Pin	Colour	Comments for AE92
2A	1​	DEAD END (N/A)		➡	N/A	N/A	N/A	n/a
2A	2​	Positive to Headlight (RIGHT)		➡	Positive out to dimmer relay (Headlight relay N.O switched output)	CAR BODY	2A	1​	RED
2A	3​	A.C Magnetic Clutch Relay N.O output to AC Clutch Coil		➡	A.C Magnetic Clutch Relay N.O output to AC Clutch Coil		EA1	1​
2A	4​	Radiator Fan (from fan relay, switched N.O output)		➡	Radiator Fan (from fan relay, switched N.O output)	CAR BODY	2A	11​	BLACK-RED
2A	5​	ABS RELAY 2 COMMON		➡	N/A	N/A	N/A	N/A
2A	6​	Positive to Headlight (LEFT)		➡	Positive out to dimmer relay (Headlight relay N.O switched output)	CAR BODY	2A	1​	RED
2A	7​	40A AM2 BATTERY FUSE to Keyswitch AM2		➡	30A IG2 supply from Key Switch (2nd Posisition) to Engine Fuse Box (Supplies DOME,HORN etc)	Dedicated Cable	IG3	5​
2A	8​	ABS RELAY 1 COMMON		➡
2A	9​	Positive from 10A IGN to EFI Main Relay Switching Coil		➡	Positive from 10A IGN to EFI Main Relay Switching Coil	Find B/O cable for this----> CAR BODY	2A	10​	BLACK-ORA	When key is in ignition position. Fuse 10A IGN (in footwell) is made live and then is fed back to the engine bay fusebox via a black-orange cable that runs along the inside of the passenger fender . 2A 10 is internally linked to multiple relay coils within the box, including Engine Main, EFI Main Relay, Radiator Fan and A/C relay
2B	1​	100A SUPPLY TO 40A HEATER FUSE In kickpanel		➡	100A Supply to Heater Left footwell kick panel (RHD).	Large Ringed cable at top	4​	N/A
2C	1​	NOT USED
2C	2​	NOT USED
2C	3​	Master Common Earth for Multiple connections.		➡	Master Common Earth for Multiple connections	See comment** CAR BODY	2A	9​	White-Black	2C 5 goes out and loops back to 2C 1 on the AE92 (to provide a path to ground for the EFI Main Relay ). It is then internally linked to 2A 9, which is a common earth for multiple relays, Including Engine Main Relay, EFI Main Relay.
2C	5​	To Horn(from Horn Relay switched N.O output)		➡	To Horn(from Horn Relay switched N.O output)	CAR BODY	2A	5​	White
2C	6​	NOT USED
2C	7​	To Earth		➡	To Earth	CAR BODY	2A	9​	White-Black
2C	8​	HAZ-HORN Supply out (Bypasses horn relay)		➡	HAZ-HORN Supply out	CAR BODY	2D	5​	White
2C	9​	Horn switch		➡	Horn switch	CAR BODY	2D	6​	Green - Red
2C	10​	DOME supply (post 20A DOME fuse)		➡	DOME supply (post fuse)	CAR BODY	2D	2​	Blue-Yellow
2D	1​	Headlight relay (4 pins) switched N.O output (pin 4 of relay) to Dimmer Relay		➡	Headlight relay (4 pins) switched N.O output (pin 4 of relay) to Dimmer Relay	CAR BODY	2A	1​	Red
2D	2​	Engine Main Relay (5 pins) switched N.O output (pin 4 of relay) TO 30A CDS FAN		➡	Engine Main Relay (5 pins) switched N.O output (pin 4 of relay) TO 30A CDS FAN	CAR BODY	2A	3​	Blue
2D	3​	NOT USED
2D	4​	Radiator Fan ground		➡	Radiator fan ground doesn't go through fusebox on AE92, it is earthed directly to car body	<------- Read note	N/A	N/A	White-Black
2D	5​	Headlight relay (4 pins) switching coil output (pin 1 of relay) to head light controls ( country specific) UK is DIM-DIP relay		➡	Headlight relay (4 pins) switching coil output (pin 1 of relay)	CAR BODY	2D	4​	Red-White
2D	6​	Engine Main Relay (5 pins) switching coil supply input (pin 1 of relay)		➡	Engine Main Relay (5 pins) switching coil supply input (pin 1 of relay)		N/A	N/A		When key is in ignition position. Fuse 10A IGN (in footwell) is made live and then is fed back to the engine bay fusebox via a black-orange cable that runs along the inside of the passenger fender . 2A 10 is internally linked to multiple relay coils within the box, including Engine Main, EFI Main Relay, Radiator Fan and A/C relay
2E	1​	100A Supply from Main Battery Fuse in to (to supply 7.5A ALT -S fuse)		➡	AE92 Does not have a ALT -S Fuse (see comment)	Dedicated Cable	N/A			Wired differently on AE92. The Fuse is called 7.5A CHARGE on AE92 and is fed from 10A IGN via the Combination meter Charge light. It Tee's off the YELLOW wire (pin 5 IG1 AE92) (pin 8 IF1 AE101) of the 22 pin plug , before it is connected to the engine harness behind the ashtray. This yellow cable runs along the passenger fender and out to the fusebox 2D pin 7.(As an alternative, make sure there is a wire from the battery main fuses to supply the WHITE wire to 3 pin plug for the alternator. Connection referred to as 'S' in the drawings. Place an inline 7.5A fuse for safety. This is simpler than the convoluted OEM setup described above)
2E	2​	50A FUSE Supply for ABS		➡	50A FUSE Supply for ABS (I don’t have ABS) White-Red wire out of fusebox	Fuse Link ABS
2E	3​	7.5A ALT -S FUSE out to secondary supply of Alternator excitation (via white 'S' connection of 3 pin plug of alternator)		➡	Wired differently on AE92. Fuse is called 7.5A CHARGE on AE92 and is fed from 10A IGN via the Combination meter Charge light. Interfaces with the Alternator via the 22 pin plug behind the ashtray.	ENGINE	2C	6​	White	This is supplied from the fuse 7.5A CHARGE, internally linked and sent out via the engine harness wire 2C pin 6 and to white wire of 3 pin plug on alternator. ( Alternator connection Refered to as 'L' on the drawings.) In short, make sure 2D 7 has a supply from a fused 12V source of your choice. And 2C 6 goes to alternator 3 pin plug white wire.
2E	4​	A.C Magnetic Clutch Relay N.O output to AC Clutch Coil		➡	A.C Magnetic Clutch Relay N.O output to AC Clutch Coil		EA1	1​
2E	5​	Internally linked to 2A 9 (a 10A IGN supply from body harness) and supplies 2G 1 (Engine harness - EFI Main Relay Coil input )		➡			N/A	N/A		This link from body harness to engine harness does noot exist on the AE92 Fusebox, as the 2A - 10 supplies the EFI Main Relay Switching Coil directly internally
2E	6​	NOT USED
2F	1​	100A Supply to Engine Main Relay (5 pins) N.O Contact (pin 5 of relay)		➡	100A Supply to Engine Main Relay (5 pins) N.O Contact (pin 5 of relay)	ENGINE	2B	4​	White
2F	2​	Main Supply from Battery to Engine bay Fuse Box bus bar, (20A DOME, HAZ-HORN, EFI Fuses) when no key in car.		➡	Main Supply from Battery fuses to Engine bay Fuse Box bus bar (20A DOME, HAZ HORN, Headight Relay)	ENGINE	2B	3​		Permanent positive supply from the batteries supplies 2B pin 3 which commonly feeds the Headlight Relay, DOME fuse, HAZ-HORN fuse on AE92 Fusebox.
2F	3​	NOT USED
2F	4​	Main Supply from Battery fuses to Headlight Relay ( this supply is separate on the AE101)		➡	Constant 40A supply from battery fuse to EFI Fuse (this supply is separate on the AE92)	ENGINE	2B	5​		The AE92 has a dedicated 40A cable connection To 2B 5 soley to supply the EFI fuse. On the AE101 this is fed from the EFI fuse is fed from the common busbar. The AE101 has a dedidcated cable solely for the headlight relay, whereas on the AE92 it is fed off the common busbar.
2F	5​	NOT USED
2G	1​	EFI Main relay switching coil input from IGN 10A fuse in footwell (via 2A PIN 9, then 2E, Pin 5) then to relay		➡	EFI Main relay switching coil input from IGN 10A fuse in footwell		N/A	N/A		When key is in ignition position. Fuse 10A IGN (in footwell) is made live and then is fed back to the engine bay fusebox via a black-orange cable that runs along the inside of the passenger fender . 2A 10 is internally linked to multiple relay coils within the box, including Engine Main, EFI Main Relay, Radiator Fan and A/C relay
2G	2​	Radiator Fan Relay NO.1 switching coil output to temperature switch (turns on fan if hot)		➡	Radiator Fan Relay NO.1 switching coil output to temperature switch (turns on fan if hot)	ENGINE	2B	2​
2G	3​	ECU Permanent 12V Supply to BATT pin of ECU C Plug (fed from 15A EFI Fuse)		➡	AE92 Fusebox doesn't have the same tap off. Any permanent fused supply will do. But the AE92 ECU uses a supply from the 15A STOP fuse in footwell	ENGINE	1E	6​
2G	4​	EFI Main Relay (4 pins) Switched N.O Output		➡	EFI Main relay switched N.O output to Circuit Opening Relay (which supplies fuel pump)	ENGINE	2B	1​
2G	5​	NOT USED
2G	6​	Stater Relay switching coil output to ground (Via 2C pin 3)		➡	AE92 Doesn't use a starter relay. Just make sure this wire goes to some sort of earth.	ENGINE	2C	5​
Plug EA1 , Pin 3				➡	40A ACC supply from Key Switch (1st position) to Engine Fuse Box (supplies DOME,HORN fuses)	ENGINE	2B	2​
				➡	Ground, via 2A pin 9 (joins 2A inside fusebox internally)	ENGINE	2C	1​		Loop 2C 5 to this connection

WIRING THE IGNITION AND STARTER CABLES

To convert 4A-F to 4A-FE there a few extra bits that need doing : as the main ignition wire to the ignition key switch are wired differently between the carbie AE92 and EFI AE101 . On the 4A-F it has a large designated 2 pin plug (IG2 in the diagrams) that goes from the fusebox main supply, through central firewall and then under the ashtray/ECU area. Pin 1 is to the ignition key switch main 100A supply (referred to as AM1 on the drawings). Pin 2 supplies the junction box in the footwell which in turn supplies various other things.

There is another connector on the engine harness, located under the ash tray labelled IG3, which has 6 pins and is involved with providing the secondary 40A supply from and to the ignition key switch (AM2 ) for the ignition coil etc.

The entire length of wire and IG2 connector on the end needs to be taken from the AE92 engine harness, and terminated into the AE101 fusebox in the same place it was on the AE92 fusebox. There's obviously many ways to achieve the same result, but this made sense to me. We are going to keep the IG3 connector, and instead adapt the AE101 equivalent plug (EA1) so it can be integrated into the body and soul of the AE92.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The AE101 instead has a 4 pin connector, refereed to as EA1 in the drawings. This wire flows as follows - Connector behind Brake Cylinder in engine bay>through firewall>through footwell junction box> to ignition switch. We will not be using this plug, instead we will adapt it to fit the IG3 connector from the AE92.

AE101 Connector EA1		Pin	Info			AE92 Connector IG3 equivalent pin
		1​	To ignition coil		➡	Pin 3
		2​	to Starter Motor		➡	Pin 4
		3​	To AM1 in Ignition key switch		❎	N/A (This achieved via IG2 Pin 1 in the 4A-F) see note above
		4​	Footwell junction box supply		❎	N/A (This achieved via IG2 Pin 2 in the 4A-F) see note above
						Pin 5 ( Additionally, you need to run a cable from the AE101 Fusebox, Connector 2A, PIN 7 to provide the secondary supply to the ignition key switch AM2. This cable needs to be terminated to IG3 pin 5)

WIRING THE INSTRUMENTATION, ECU, OPENING CIRCUIT RELAY

Sadly, even with all the work done above we wouldn't be able to start the car. Mainly because the fuel pump and its associated opening circuit relay would still not be wired in.
Fear not, my Corolla friends. We will get there.

The AE92 4A-F has yet another final connector under the ashtray from the end of the engine harness. In the red corner, we have the the IG1!

This connector is involved with gauge cluster instrumentation, tacho signal, coolant temp sensor, oil pressure switche etc.

AE92 22 PIN Plug

In the Blue corner, we have the AE101 equivalent, the ferocious IF1!

AE101 22 PIN Plug

Thankfully, the plugs are the same shape. However, the AE92 lacks many of the features of the AE101, including air con and ABS. So it has roughly half the amount of wires going into it. A few of these extra features we can ignore, but there are some we need to keep, such as the circuit opening relay, and ECU constant BATT supplies etc. I will detail this below:

AE101 22 PIN CONNECTOR (plug IF1)			AE92 22 PIN CONNECTOR (PLUG IG 1)
Pin	Info	Pin	Info
1​	Fuel Filter Warning	1​
2​	FP Pin on test plug	2​
3​	B, B1 Terminal on ECU, plug E5C, pins 7 & 1 respectively*	3​
4​	ABS Related ( not important as AE92 doesn't have it)	4​	FROM 7.5A ENGINE
5​	ABS Related ( not important as AE92 doesn't have it)	5​	FROM 10A IGN
6​	Oil Pressure Switch	6​	Coolant Temp Sensor
7​	Coolant Temp Sensor	7​
8​	FROM 10A IGN	8​
9​	From Reverse light switch to reverse lights	9​
10​	From 10A GAUGE	10​	Fuel Filter warning
11​	Air Con (not important, AE92 doesn't have it)	11​
12​	Circuit opening relay, pin 3, from EA1 pin 2 (or IG3 pin 4 if already converted across)	12​
13​	BATT terminal on ECU (via E5C plug pin 2) on ECU	13​
14​	ABS Related ( not important as AE92 doesn't have it)	14​	Oil pressure switch
15​	ABS Related ( not important as AE92 doesn't have it)	15​	FROM 7.5A GAUGE
16​		16​	From reverse switch to reverse lights
17​		17​	EARTH
18​	Air Con Related ( not important as AE92 doesn't have it)	18​	Tacho signal from Dizzy
19​	Tacho Signal from Dizzy	19​
20​	EARTH	20​
21​	Speed sensor square wave output (to ECU)	21​	(Requires third party sensor)
22​	Speed sensor ground	22​

Comparing the two tables, we can rewire the AE101 IF1 22 pin to fit that of the AE92 IG1 22 pin.


WIRING THE ECU 12 PIN PLUG

But you will notice that a few of the pins in the table above refer to a 'E5C' plug on the ECU. This E5C plug on the ECU is 1 of 3 plugs that go into the ECU. The other two plugs can be ignored, as they are all part of the AE101 engine wiring harness. The C plug however, is part of the AE101 body and connects to the fuel pump relay and instrument cluster for the speed signal etc. This plug, along with a good length of its wires needs to be chopped out of the AE101 and stitched into the AE92 monstrosity.

AE101 ECU 12PIN CONNECTOR (plug E5C)
Pin	Colour	Info
1​	Bla-Red	B1+ ECU supply from IF1 pin 3
2​	Red-Whi	BATT signal, from IF1 pin 13
3​	Bla-Ora	Octane Selection? Seems to be used only in Indonesia
4​	Gre-Red	FC Signal, from Circuit opening relay, pin 4 (Fuel pump)
5​	N/A	N/A
6​	Red-Yel	Air Con Amplifier
7​	Bla-Red	B+ ECU supply, from IF1 pin 3
8​	Red-Yel	Engine warning light, to instrument cluster plug C8(D) pin 9
9​	Gre-Red	Economy Drive monitor, doesn't appear to be for UK models
10​	Yel-Blu	Air Con Amplifier
11​	Vio-Whi	Speed Signal from Tacho inside gauge cluster **
12​	Bla	Electrical Idle up Diode (D3, PIN 2). (located behind instrument cluster) * I didn't end up using it and it didn't seem to be a problem

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** The VSS signal may be a problem, according to this post Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) problems , the speed signal can be tapped from the cruise control computer, I didn't even know AE92s could have cruise control from the factory. Supposedly speed signal is actually produced within the instrument cluster, by an internal tacho, which then supplies the signal to the ECU to tell it that the car is moving. Failing to see this signal and the car will go into limp mode. I will have a look for any Violet-White wires, as that seems to be the colour associated with the speed signal.
Looking at my diagrams, it looks like there no speed signal wire coming from the instrument cluster internal tacho ( at least for European RHD cars) but I still wonder if the internal tacho is in there, but just hasn't been wired up.

***VSS EDIT: I solved this issue by using a Brantz BR3 Speed Sensor, and adapted it to fit inside the original AE101 Speed sensor. I post about it later in the thread

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is all I have looked into for now. I will edit this post as and when I have come across any new information!

 

One the AE92, plugs, 2A, 2D and 2E are part of the AE92 body harness, and 2B, 2C are part of the AE92 engine harness.



View attachment 324195
On the AE101, plugs 2A,2B,2C,2D are part of the AE101 Body harness, and 2E,2F and 2G are part of the AE101 Engine harness.
So looks like these plugs are mainly for car features which can be used without the engine running, such as headlights and horn. This makes sense given their location.
I cannot, for the life me find out what the single plug 2E (on AE92) and 2B ( on AE101) do. The only reference I can find to them, is for a 2C Engine Corolla, and it goes to the main heater. I cannot find anything on those plugs on the 4A-F, 4A-FE. If anyone can tell me it would be hugely appreciated.

My 1997 Corolla Wiring Diagram manual doesn't even show the 2B connector. It shows the square area in the middle, but it doesn't have a "1" in it and it doesn't have a line drawn from it to anything like your diagram showing the 2B connector, so maybe it's something different European versus North American or LHD vs. RHD.

 

My question is; do you think that your new computer will work without having to be re-programmed ? I just asked a Toyota Service Dept. if they could re-program my '90 Corolla Automatic Computer to work with a manual and they didn't think so. They also couldn't guarantee that they could even "Burn my VIN" into a '90 Corolla manual trans. computer if I brought them one. I'm not a computer guy, so I don't even know why you would even have to "Burn your Vin" into a computer from another car ?

 

The ECU and the engine I'm using are from the same vehicle. My AE92 with the carbie 4A-F engine in it didn't have an ECU, so no reprogramming required. I've been told if you're swapping from auto to manual on a 4A-FE you need an ECU from a 4A-FE manual car.

 

There is no flashing or burning anything into these computers. They are old and from before all of that. Sometime around or after 2000 they made laws to make it harder to steal cars, so the computer had to match the vin if the car and you had keys with chips that had to match the computer, etc. This is when all of this "burning VIN" stuff started.

Anyway, you just need to know the part number for the computer you need. Just plug it in and it should work.

 

And to add to what DrZ said, the OP is using the 7th gen ECU that matches the engine/trans combo he plans to use. This should simplify his project by reusing as many common parts from both cars as he can (the better of the 2 hopefully). In his case, he's just got to repin some of the harnesses he has to make it all work.

Both of the 2 Honda Accords I have here have chipped keys, and that was started with the 98 models to cut down on theft.

 

On manuals it goes through the clutch safety switch, but I'd have to look at the wiring diagram. I remember my old 1980 Toyota didn't have a clutch safety switch, but after some point it seems all newer manual cars have it. But of course you don't need that. You just need to wire it to get the key to turn the starter.

 

My '88 pickup was the first vehicle with a clutch safety sw. and I eventually jumped it because I'd rather not have one.

 

The neutral start switch is located on the front of the transmission (on my 3-speed A131L) and is moved by the shift cable. The neutral start switch also turns on the reverse lights, so you have to deal with that too. The neutral start switch can be removed without disassembling the transmission at all. It just sits on the lever that the shift cable is attached to.

 

Thanks for the heads up on it's location. I guess I'm more used to working on older cars where they put most of that stuff inside and out of the weather.

 

Heres a (rather boring) video update of my project so far!

In addition to the stuff described in the video, I have also finished wiring the ECU plugs, opening circuit relay and fuel pump. I had a good look around for some Violet-White wire (for the speed sensor) around behind the dash but I couldn't find any. I found some in the AE101 though and found an unused plug which I assume is this cruise control plug described in the VSS thread posted earlier. I couldn't see any Violet wires coming out the back of the instrument cluster either unfortunately, but there were a unused pins, I need to check the wiring diagram pinouts of the instrument cluster plugs and see if any of them have this speed signal. Supposedly, an alternative is to make my own magnet / reed switch set up, which would pulse the ECU with 5V 4 times per wheel revolution. Hopefully I can just tap into the back of the cluster itself. Will update as and when.

 

Regarding speed sensors.

Turns out there are products available that allow you to both connect a traditional speedometer cable to your dash, and also provide a 5V square wave signal to an ECU (example of product).

This should solve my issue of finding this mysterious Violet-white wire, or pre-wired cruise control system that doesn't seem to exist in European models.

 

Regarding speed sensors.

Turns out there are products available that allow you to both connect a traditional speedometer cable to your dash, and also provide a 5V square wave signal to an ECU (example of product).

This should solve my issue of finding this mysterious Violet-white wire, or pre-wired cruise control system that doesn't seem to exist in European models.

It might be the solution to your cable issue. The only thing is that I think you need the reverse of it (going from electric to cable drive). Don't know if they have something like that. Now if you can get the cable half from a Toyota dealer, then added that unit, you might be onto something. Until then, I guess you're stuck with using an app on your phone for a speedometer.