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That's pretty Fuckin BADASS!!! and i thought i was original

You can pretty much run the whole electronics in stock form just removing the body harness and your done!
well not really...

i use a walbro 255 fuel-pump at about 100psi and if anything it ran better in stock form! i would recommend it over most fuel-pumps oem or after-market.

as for the electronics i would just try to make it work in stock form so you don't have to remember how you ran a wire every time you have a prob.

 

always wondered what people in OK did... lol

 

If you use a Walbro (about $100), you could use a cheap fuel pressure regulator to turn the pressure down to whatever level you want. Those Walbros are very good pumps, if a bit noisy.

Nice project too. Keep us informed of how it works out.

 

Nice! why a 4AFE though?

 

Guessing: because he had one in his donor car. And he'll probably still be looking at a 1:10 power to weight ratio.

 

yeah in something like that... a 4afe is PLENTY... wont there be an issue with the engine sticking out the back way to much? Wouldn't think you would want so much weight over hanging the back like that

 

if you look he's got a section missing from the rear and without completely changing drive-trains to something like an MR-2 he doesn't really have a choice... that's why he is a bit forward for a dune-buggy to counter-weight.

all in all this would be a ton of fun!! might even consider using a 4af with a nasty carb!!! say bye bye electronics...

 

oh and here is a 250hp 9000rpm 4afe the way it should be...

and a 20v for shits

 

Damn, now that's a 4afe! Where do you get racing parts for that engine? I've never seen racing stuff except pistons for the 4afe.

Okay, so I got my wiring down to just the engine after several hours. I have a single plug that I can jumper-wire and make electricity go to all sensors, fuel injectors, distributor, and I can kick the starter and cold-start injector by jumping another terminal. So as far as wiring, I'm doing good.

No word yet on the adapter plate. But should be soon, then the real fun begins.

And this is the only thing to do in oklahoma besides meth and fat girls. (not fond of meth, but fat girls aren't too bad)

 

Oh, ghosty was right. I bought the donor for $100 and got it running in a few hours. I chose the 4afe because they are cheap, reliable, readily available, and did I mention cheap? Plus I have an extra engine to start building up if this project somehow needs more power.(not likely) I want efi because the stock carbs on those cars are crappy, I've had my share of aisin fits! And I don't want to spend the bucks on a weber or holley performance carb. The efi will be very reliable when I get it setup, hopefully. I'm worried about the oiling on this engine when I climb steep hills, cause it only hold 3 quarts. You guys think I may have an oiling issue on long hill climbs?

 

it's possible... but you could custom fab a bigger pan to make it hold more, the pan is fairly oddly shaped stock which is why it only holds 3 quarts.

or you could just go dry sump like the buggy above did

 

since this is for off-road i would get a pretty big oil-cooler and filter relocation kit. stock it holds 4 qts i use about 5qts with all my oil-lines and cooler and mine isn't that big.

what adapter plate?

 

Kennedy Eng. Products makes an adapter kit for all kinds of engines (22R, 1ZZ, 4AGE, lexus v8). It comes with an aircraft alum. plate, custom 17 lb. flywheel (what is stock weight btw?), pilot bearing, and all bolts to fasten engine to transaxle. Mine is ready, but I gotta add a T.O. bearing and clutch alignment tool to the order. This is a low budget project, so expensive parts are killing me. A filter relocation/cooler kit would be the ticket, but can I get one cheap enough for my budget? Can I get some pics of where the plumbing hooks up?

 

Could I just ******* it up good and modify the A/C condenser coil and use it as an oil cooler?

Can a transmission cooler be used as an oil cooler?

 

no oil will not flow properly in either... has to be an oil-cooler but you should be able to find a relocation kit online, oil-cooler dunno where would be best to source.

flywheel is 22lbs i think

 

flywheel is 22lbs i think

Correct, I just checked it.

I got an aftermarket one for the 4A-FE that weighs 9lbs.

Where did you get the filter relocating kit jamaz, and how much was it?

 

don't know how my plumbing in a corolla will help u...

 

22 lbs to 9 lbs... that is definitely going to be noticeable Lol

 

Yeah. I really didn't want it to be so much of a difference, but that's what's available.
The new one cost less than what it would have cost me to lighten and balance the original.
I'll let you know how it works out when I get it in.

 

the oil gets pulled up the sump and out the block to the filter,
then clean oil runs through the cooler and back to the block ready to be ripped up

actually its 9.5 or at least it's listed as such. but yes heck of a diff. i would have rather gone with 10-11lbs range...

and i got my kit used with my log-manifold (good deal)
i've been told the greddy kit made for rb26 is the same as 4age so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a knock-off somewhere...

 

actually its 9.5 or at least it's listed as such.

You are probably right. My bathroom scale doesn't read 1/2 pounds. :lol:

 

What is so wrong with shoving in a 9.5 lbs flywheel?

 

makes things "peaky" you sacrifice a smooth power-band for response and max power but that doesn't always turn out well...

i know the gze's are known for having stalling and other issues with anything lighter than 11lbs

drive ability is my top concern

 

Thanks for the photos and input. I was taking another look at the engine mounting positions, and the oil sump will be all the way to the back of the machine, so oiling up hills may not be as bad as I thought. I got the engine together yesterday, so I'm sitting ready for the plate which shipped Friday. I found a Mallory high pressure fuel pump and filter block used very little for $100, which aint bad. I just have to order a fuel pressure regulator now, and I'm ready for testing. I should get pictures of the mated assembly by the end of the week.

So not a lot of difference in my kit flywheel and a stocker. I'd like the smoother power band myself. Don't want stalling problems.

 

yeah but a 4agze is a forced induction engine... I can't see it being as big of an issue with a 4age. Wouldn't a lighter flywheel on a low power N/A engine give you more power? not less..

 

A lighter flywheel should result in a slight hp gain and more responsive revving, but on the down side it could make idle a little rough and uneven, and make moving off from a stop a little difficult, as you have less rotating mass to maintain the engines momentum and resist stalling. (Reduced driveability)
The lighter it is the more pronounced the benefits and the defesits.

 

that would be easily over come by bringing the idle rpm up a little would it not?

That's what I know, less rotating mass = more power.