You are not certain if the engine ran in the donor car? What was the donor car and what year?

It doesn't throw a check engine light or a code? Has the distributor been off the engine?
Timing was set with E1 and T1 in the diagnose connector connected? 15 degrees is a bit much. Stock it's 10 degrees BTDC

 

Those were my thoughts as well. Since it does run, you might try backing off the timing at the distributor.

 

If the ECU doesn't react to shorting E1 and T1, I'd check wiring first. This should always work.
If there is a wiring problem, it might not get all the signals it needs too properly run the car.

And do you want to measure the dizzy or the ignitor? The dizzy only contains the pickups for the RPM signal and crank position.

I recon that rotor and cap were replaced on the dizzy?

 

Rotor and cap were indeed replaced. I wouldnt mind checking the ignitor if you have some numbers i can look for.

As far as the dizzy i figured since it had something electrical inside it could be ohmd at a minimum. But if thats not the case than ill have to step back and reconsider how ill go about checking for consistant spark at higher rpm.

For now sometime this week ill have to begin going through the wiring to look for issues.