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88 V6 4x4 cranks but won't start

12K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  texas12  
#1 ·
So, it seems I have two problems right now. My truck is an '88 5 speed with about 160k miles on it.

First off, I tried starting my truck last night, and it just kept cranking. It didn't turn over, and it also kept cranking when I switched from the "start" position to the "on" position. As soon as I dropped to the "off" position, it stopped trying. I've heard two things about this, but I don't know how to test either of them. I've heard that my solenoid starter could be going bad, or my ignition switch is going bad. I don't want to invest in both if I don't have to.

The second problem is that it just won't start. The starter only got stuck running 4 times, and now isn't doing that. But I can't get anything to turn over, not even with a pop start. I haven't checked if there's a spark or not... I'm so much of a noob that I don't know how to do it. Also, I don't know what people mean when they say it could be a bad coil. Is this the ignition coil or the pickup coil?

I know that there are a lot of dumb questions peppered throughout, but I've not dealt with this before. Any help is much appreciated.
 
#2 ·
To try to rule out the spark issue, I replaced the distributor cap (which was fairly corroded), the rotor, the spark plugs, and the wires. The truck still won't start. I did however find that a part directly below what I think is the power steering pump is broken. When I unscrewed the bolt, which had 2 hose nipples on the end of it, and pulled it out, it started draining oil. If it helps, I used a 17mm wrench to loosen it. Could this cause my no start?
 
#3 ·
First, did the no start problem start before the actual starter motor problem (staying on)? Or will it wont start now that the starter is acting up?

I want to say the starter would be the solenoid but thats from my experience with older domestic trucks, im not sure if toyotas use a similar system or not.

Checking for spark is pretty easy, pull of a wire from a spark plug and hold it to a good ground, get a friend to crank the motor and watch for a strong blue arc from the wire to your metal ground.

Also, make sure your timing belt hasnt snapped. Remove the dist cap and watch for the rotor to spin while you crank the motor.

Those two nipples on the end of the power steering pump are vacuum lines that (while stopped) bump the idle up a few hundred rpm to assist in tight steering. You can simply just plug them off tho, most dont work after 10+ years.
 
#4 ·
The starter problem just started; it was the same day that it refused to start. It only got stuck 4 times.

I checked for a spark, and I have a good one.

The timing belt seems to be fine, and the rotor is spinning.

A friend told me that it could be the fuel filter... I tried spraying a little starter fluid in the air intake, but that didn't seem to make a difference. I didn't want to try it more than 2 times if it didn't work. So I'm not sure that that's the problem. I'll try the fuel filter later either way, because it's probably overdue for a replacement.
 
#5 ·
I had an idea... I still want to replace the fuel filter, but could that cause a sudden effect? The truck started fine Sunday morning, but wouldn't start Sunday night. I have also NOT experienced any lack of power recently. The engine did not hesitate at highway speeds, and I could push it up to 5k rpm without a problem.
 
#6 ·
When you sprayed fluid in your intake, did you reconnect the intake tube before trying to start? When you crank the engine, it provides suction at the intake and pulls the flap on the MAF open. Only when the flap opens does the fuel pump turn ON. So with a disconnected intake tube, no fuel & no start.
There is a service connection in the engine bay that can be jumpered to start the fuel pump when the key is turn to ON (no cranking needed). This is an easy way to listen for the fuel pump running & rule that out.
If the rotor is turning and you have spark, the starter is obviously working. If it gets stuck once engaged, that is another issue.
 
#7 ·
Originally I did close the intake back up, but I sprayed the fluid on the wrong side of the valve. So, I just opened it back up, opened the valve using the throttle cable, and sprayed it in there. I then sealed it all back up and tried starting it again. This time, after a very hard try, it started turning over. It didn't quite run, but there was much more rumbling. Does this mean that I have a fuel problem?

I can always hear my fuel pump prime when I turn the key to the "on" position... and that hasn't changed. I don't know if it's supposed to, but since I bought the truck, the fuel pump primes indefinitely. How do I check for fuel pressure beyond the tank without a gauge? And yes, I filled the tank very recently (Saturday night) at a Wawa.
 
#10 ·
I don't think it will. It is something that gets missed, because the symptom fits, wants to fire, but doesn't. I have seen this be misdiagnosed a lot. So you may want to check it. I will say that I think the culprit may be more the coil than the igniter, but you have to check. I am just trying to point you in a direction no one else has and sometimes if you don't know what or where to check, it will be one of those things that frustrate you.
 
#12 ·
Maybe there is a jumper... but I don't know where the fuel pump relay is located.

Also, I noticed an unfamiliar sound while trying to start the truck. It sounds like air being shot into the engine once per second. Any time I crank the engine I get a sort of "fiss" sound over and over. I have a feeling this means there's a fuel block somewhere. I tried pulling the fuel filter off, but I can't get it to budge. Is there an easier way to check for fuel pressure at the engine? Also, how would I go about bleeding the fuel line to safely remove the fuel filter?
 
#13 ·
There is not that much pressure on the filter. I believe it requires two wrenches and a couple of scratched knuckles. Mounted to the frame on the passenger side. Easier than the 22RE that is below the intake manifold.