The axles (or, the CV joints on the axles) would be my guess too. Try grabbing each axle, pulling and pushing it up and down, forward and backward, and see if you can feel any free play in one or other of them.

 

Whew. How would I do that?

Oh, and if it is the joints, does that mean I don't have to get the axels? Or do I have to get everything?

So, why does it only make that noise when I press the accelerator petal and at no other time?

P.S. Thanks for responding

 

If you crawl underneath your car, you can see the axles, round steel rods about an inch thick, that go from the transmission, to a sort of rubber "bellows" thing (the cover to the cv joints), into the centre of each wheel. Grab the axle and see if it moves. (And if the rubber bellows things look split, that is also an indication that your cv joints are either gone, or about to go soon).

When you replace the CV joint, you normally replace the whole axle. It's easier and cheaper that way. And your old axle gets remanufactured and sold to someone else.

Why does it only make the noise when you put your foot on the gas pedal? Because the axles and CV joints are then under load, would be my guess.

Look, I don't know for sure that it is your cv joints/axles, but it was my first thought when reading your post, before I read your mechanic's diagnosis. And if he has already been underneath your car to check, he has probably already done the sort of test I am talking about. Plus, at 130,000 miles, it is not uncommon for cv joints/axles to wear.

Another check: does the rythm of the clanking noise match the road speed of the car, or the rpm of the engine? In other words, when you change down a gear, but keep the road speed of the car constant, by making the engine rev faster, does the rythm of the noise get quicker, as the engine rpm increases, or stay the same, like the road speed? If the noise rythm is proportional to engine speed, it is very probably the axles. If it is proportional to the engine rpm, then it is definitely not the axles (and is either an exhaust leak, or some problem in the engine).

 

I was unable to detect a pattern with downshifting. The sound is too unpredictable to do it. To down shift, I have to decelerate, so it stops anyway, and then it;s a while before it starts again...

Can you tell me "how long I have"--before I have to worry about the wheels falling off the car? How will I know when it absolutely has to be fixed?

Thanks for your reply.

 

I have always diagnosed a bad cv joint by turning the wheel to full lock from a dead stop and slowly accelerate. Try left first or right first, either way. If you hear a clicking sound as you start moving your cv is bad. Be aware that the turning stress on the joint is usually when they tend to break.

 

Too bad you can't detect whether the frequency of the noise matches the road speed or the engine speed, because that's a great way to tell whether it's wheels, axles, brakes (road speed), or engine, exhaust (engine speed).

You could try SkidPlate's suggestion above.

If it is the CV joints/axles, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The wheels will not fall off your car. Instead, if the CV joint breaks, your car will probably just stop moving (like being in neutral). From your description, the noise doesn't sound too bad now. If the noise gets worse a few months from now, it should also make it easier to diagnose exactly what the cause is.

 

Thanks so much for saying that...I honestly thought that the wheels could come off.

The best I can tell you is that when I am in 5th gear at highway speed, it is loudest. I wouldn't say the rhythm changes at different speeds, so much as that it is louder. And again, I never hear it unless I have the accelerator depressed. Unfortunately, if I am at highway speed if I were to go into 4th, then the engine would scream for me to go into 5th, so I would not hear the noise.

It is not the brakes. Actually, the 2nd guy said my brakes are worn (in addition to diagnosing the axels) which brings me to another dilemma:

My first set of front brakes got about 55K miles. The second set about the same. (The rear brakes got about 115K). So when this guy told me my brakes were worn, I was really surprised: I only have 20K on this set. Of course, he could have said that to me to sell me something else and make money for himself. They do try to get away with that for women. Which is why I am here, asking you all!

Any idea why brakes would get less than half the mileage as previous sets? The guy who sold me the last set sold me ceramic because he said they would last longer.

Thanks all of you...

 

The front axles don't hold the wheels in place; they just make sure that the wheel is connected to the engine, so the engine can make the wheels rotate.

I can't think why your third set of brake pads should only get 20k miles. Presumably your driving style has not changed. In any case, 20k is very short, unless you have been driving like a maniac on very twisty roads. The only realistic possibility I can think of is if your brake calipers are sticking, so the brake pads wear unevenly, and one side of the pad is worn out. Or they are trying to rip you off.

It is not hard to check it yourself. Put a brick (or something) in front and behind a rear wheel (to make double sure the car won't roll), jack up one of the front wheels, remove the wheel, stick a log of wood (or something) under the car just for safety, in case the jack slips, and look at the two brake pads, one either side of the steel brake disk/rotor. Are the brake pads worn down close to the metal backing? Is the wear uneven?

All brake pads nowadays have a metal strip which rubs against the rotor when your pad wears down too much, and you hear an annoying squealing noise from the front wheels. If you hear that squealing noise, get the pads changed (because otherwise the worn pads will damage your rotors, which increases the cost of a brake job). If you don't hear that noise, they are probably OK (unless the wear is uneven, so the metal strip can't tell that the other side of the pad is worn down).

You should invest in a Haynes manual for your car. It can teach you how to do a lot of basic stuff.

 

Oh, Nick, sigh...you give me so much credit. I regret disappointing you, but basically I'm a "take it to the mechanic" kinda gal.

I have never used a jack, and changing a tire or jumpstarting a car to me means calling Triple A.


But at least I do try to do my research.


Oh, yeah, and, No, my driving has not changed. I will need rotors at the next brake change cause it's the third set of brakes, and they told me rotors can only be reground twice and then they need to be replaced. Is that incorrect? Oh, yeah, and another thing? This guy who said my brakes were worn? He was the one looking at the axels...he had the car on the lift, but he did not have the tires off. Don't you have to have the tires off to evaluate the brakes?

 

Oh, boy. I just checked my introduction thread--I had posted this same thread in that forum, till I found this one.



Someone there responded by saying this sounds like "bearings"--so how do I know which it is, bearings, axel, what? yikes.

 

where are you located?

the bearings would sound like roaring. it would pretty much roar all of the time, not dependent (too much) on speed.

the rotors need to be inspected for thickness. IMHO there is no way to say that after 'X' # of brake pad changes, there needs to be a rotor change.

yes, you can inspect the axles w/o removing the wheels.

***also, how is your oil?***

 

wow. I don't think either mechanic removed the wheels...I think they would both be happy to replace the axels, charge me over 400 bucks, then I have the same noise and they won't give me my money back cause "Lady, you needed new axels".



So I am being very cautious here.



You don't want to know about my oil...leaks, burns, the whole nine yards. I regularly add oil myself. I just tried dumping Restore in the tank after an oil change and tuneup. We shall see if that helps. I still get the cloud of blue in the morning, though...is it a smaller cloud...maybe. But again, I don't have the money to take care of all this car needs.



Emergencies only right now.

 

ok, so the camshaft and the crank seals sound like they should be replaced. the blue puff in the morning is/are your valve seal(s). restore won't work. it just set you back a few dollars. it's like a band aid with crappy adhesive.

 

For future reference, use kevlar pads for your brakes....nevef had any worries. as far as your other issue..how is the car acting today?

 

car is acting the same today.



I am going for my third, second opinion on Monday! The guy who originally put in my brakes will take a look at them and see if the other guy is shittin me. He will also look at the axels (I think he will) and tell me if that is really what is making the noise.

 

Has anyone or yourself..checked around the back of the tire to see if the wheel bearing is going?

 

Splines on an axle can also be faulty.

 

OK, guys, I just go another opinion. The guy at the bottom of my hill looked at it and said that the left one is much worse than the right one.



Knowing my financial situation, he offered to do just the left one, and said then later on when I can afford it, I can do the right one.

Anyone have an opinion on that?

 

Sounds reasonable. They do say that when one goes the other will not be far behind, but if the other axle does not have a split boot and it's OK today, then it will probably be ok tomorrow. You can save a little by asking for a remanufactured unit (which is about 60 bucks at Autozone) over a new unit, which is about 90 bucks.
But then, they also do say that sometimes on a reman they don't always bother to change the cv joint. Who knows?

But, if you are burning oil (blue smoke), you might not want to put a ton of money into this thing anyway. Might be time to say bye bye and thanks. Burning oil is a serious issue that you won't fix with oil additives.
Phil

 

Thanks. Yes, I am trying to avoid putting a ton of money into it. But I have no money for a new one and no other transportation. I have to keep it at least going.

No, both boots are completely gone by now. Worn away.

Oh, yeah, and he said that the axels likely would cost around 150 each.

Sixty dollars! Where do you live! Can barely get a battery for that around here.

 

axels

Hi
I live in Strafford, NH, but it doesn't matter where you live. Go to Rock Auto on line and check out their prices for cv axles. You'll find they are 45 bucks plus core charge for remanufactured ones and about 65 bucks for new ones with no core charge. Maybe print out their price list and wave it under your mechanic's nose. I don't see why you shouldn't buy your own parts and pay someone to fit them. The one obstacle you can't overcome is being a girl = a TARGET. Have your brother/boyfriend/gay roommate/dad take the thing in and watch the price drop. 400 a side for a CV axle is highway robbery IMHO.

You can also check Autozone prices online, and you can call Pep Boys for a quote. They carry reman ones in store for about the same price as online. Doesn't make sense to buy reman on line coz you spend as much to send back the old axels to get your core charge back as they charge for the cores. But 65 for a new cv axle is good.

But, nobody can do much for your oil problem

Phil

 

boots gone

Hi
When you say both boots are gone, do you mean both boots at each end of the same axle, or do you mean one boot has gone on each cv axle? If you have lost both boots on the same axle, well, you are going to replace it anyway. But it you have lost a boot on each axle, then you will grind away the other cv joint in a month or two. Don't take long after the grease is ejected
Phil

 

The oil problem thread is a different poster than me.

Not 400 a side, 400 for both axels. Is that a lot?

Sorry, I thought there was only one boot per axel.

No, I have no spare male to bring with me to the mechanic.

 

I just called pepboys...it is 70 for one side and 80 for the other (why would they be different) but that doesn't include the boot kit for each which is another 15 bucks.

But...a far cry from the 150 for each side (parts, not labor) two of the mechanics quoted me.

Is there other hardware I am not aware of?

 

Different prices coz one is longer (passenger) than the other. There is a boot to protect each end of the joint. If they tear, then dirt and crap gets in and ruins the CV joint pretty fast. I wasn't aware that they sold the boots separately. 200 per axle for just labor, or including the CV axle? I assume just for labor...that's about 2.5 hours. I have to do this job soon myself and I hope it doesn't take 2.5 hours. From what I understand, the work is at the wheel end. You have to take the steering knuckle off so you can push the axle splines (that's the threaded part that you can see with the hubcaps off) back through the hub. The end that goes into the tranny is held there by a simple clip. Given that the splines should have been well greased when the axles were put in, theoretically it shouldn't be too hard to get em out. But you're talking to a guy who has spent a week trying to bang brake rotors off, so...

If pep boys has the part for 70 bucks, why not ask them how much extra to fit it for you? At least they can't screw you on the parts cost if you bought it.

Where are you located...maybe there's someone who posts here would install it for you cheaper.

Phil