Cig/radio 20 amp fuse and dome fuse. Check for power on both sides or swap out with known good fuse.

 

I found a defected 10 amp fuse replaced it everything works now I ordered a short pin from the dealer today to replace the ten amp fuse coming in tomorrow with a glove box light bulb Tomorrow I'm removing the exhaust manifold to replace to hoses going to the oil cooler heat exchanger which are leaking. I need to find a cooling system adapter for the 96 Camry 2.2L LE radiator for a old style cooling system pressure tool.Sorry for getting back so late.

What month in 1996?
Jan - Aug 1996 = 3rd Gen Camry
Sep - Dec 1996 = 4th Gen Camry

What did you do to confirm there is no power on either side of the dome fuse's holder?

For the 4th Generation, on the OEM wiring diagram all I see between the fusible link near the battery ("FL Main") and the dome fuse is a "short pin" (a removable piece of metal that is not a fuse yada...). The short pin should be in the same fuse block as the dome fuse, possibly labeled "D.C.C. Short."

Ordered that short pin today at the dealer to replace the 10 amp fuse that was bad already replaced it with a good 10 amp fuse to fix everything.I replaced the 20 amp fuse with another. Sorry about the late reply.

I have not done any soldering on the circuit board for an instrument cluster. Have you tried googling the site as follows:

"capacitors" "solder" "speedometer" site:toyotanation.com

Googling thusly turns up lots of threads that look helpful.

If you post the month of manufacture on your 1996 Camry, then I can probably follow along better. It's still not clear whether this is a 3rd Gen 1996 Camry, or a 4th Gen.

What was the rating on the dome fuse? 20A? 7.5A? Or something else?

20 amp It turned out the 10A fuse was bad I ordered the short pin for it today at the dealer to replace the 10A fuse Thank you for the reply on the instrument cluster very good Tip

ordered the short pin today from the dealer THANKYOU FOR THE REPLY

 

Just for kicks, check the fusebox under the hood too.

 

What year is your Camry? Is it a four-cylinder or a V6?

 

1996 Camry LE 2.2 L 4 cylinder engine

Just for kicks, check the fusebox under the hood too.

Tomorrow I’ll do that thanks for the reply

Cig/radio 20 amp fuse and dome fuse. Check for power on both sides or swap out with known good fuse.

I’ll do that tomorrow thanks for the reply

 

1996 Camry LE 2.2 L 4 cylinder engine

What month in 1996?
Jan - Aug 1996 = 3rd Gen Camry
Sep - Dec 1996 = 4th Gen Camry

What did you do to confirm there is no power on either side of the dome fuse's holder?

For the 4th Generation, on the OEM wiring diagram all I see between the fusible link near the battery ("FL Main") and the dome fuse is a "short pin" (a removable piece of metal that is not a fuse yada...). The short pin should be in the same fuse block as the dome fuse, possibly labeled "D.C.C. Short."

 

I believe this is what Toyota does to the dome lights anyway.
"Toyota uses a sometimes confounding method for the lighting. When a lamp is off, there's 12V applied to both sides. When the lamp is meant to be on, they will ground one side (remove the voltage from one side)."

 

ThankYou for your reply I’ll look up p/n to see what it supposed to have.My next project is to fix the instrument cluster by replacing the capacitors on the circuit board for the speedometer and rpm gauges.Have you ever repaired the circuit board soldering in new capacitors?THANKYOU EVERYONE FOR HELPING ME SO FAR!

 

My next project is to fix the instrument cluster by replacing the capacitors on the circuit board for the speedometer and rpm gauges.Have you ever repaired the circuit board soldering in new capacitors?

I have not done any soldering on the circuit board for an instrument cluster. Have you tried googling the site as follows:

"capacitors" "solder" "speedometer" site:toyotanation.com

Googling thusly turns up lots of threads that look helpful.

If you post the month of manufacture on your 1996 Camry, then I can probably follow along better. It's still not clear whether this is a 3rd Gen 1996 Camry, or a 4th Gen.

What was the rating on the dome fuse? 20A? 7.5A? Or something else?

 

If it is true that your short pin got lost and DPO replaced it with a 10A fuse, you ought to be able to get a proper one from a pick and pull scrap yard (all Toyotas will have a short pin, described on the fuse box cover).

BTW, the short pin is removed for transport of the new car around the country/world. It cuts off power to all of the portions of the system which are not necessary for transport, to reduce risk of the battery going flat during transport and storage (up to about 75 days). The dealer installs it when ready to sell the car.

 

My 3rd Gen wiring diagram shows a 20 amp fuse for the dome fuse and no short pin upstream of it.

My 4th Gen wiring diagram shows a 7.5 amp fuse for the dome fuse and a short pin upstream of it.

Per Norm356's post, maybe there is supposed to be a short pin on the 3rd Gen, but the wiring diagram does not show it? Which would surprise me.

Either way, it does not make electrical sense to have a 10A fuse upstream of a 20A fuse. If this is a Gen 3 Camry (manufactured in Aug 1996 or earlier), then the 20A dome fuse seems correct, and per Norm's post, a short pin (not a 10A fuse) upstream of the 20A dome fuse makes sense as well.

 

Have already replaced the 10 amp fuse with a short pin fuse also noticed it’s the same color as a white 25 amp fuse finished soldering in new capacitors hopefully to fix the rpm and speedometer problem not working. Today I noticed two bolts stripped out while tightening the exhaust. On a 5SFE engine, what kit do I need to heli-coil two stripped exhaust manifold holes?

 

Today I noticed two bolts stripped out while tightening the exhaust. On a 5SFE engine, what kit do I need to heli-coil two stripped exhaust manifold holes?

The exhaust manifold has drilled (not threaded) holes. The cylinder head has the holes with the threads. Notice that it is studs and nuts that fasten the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head:

Thread size: M8X1.25? Double check me by taking one of the nuts to a hardware store and using the store's thread gauges.

Be aware that the cylinder head is aluminum alloy and so much softer than steel. Stripping the threaded holes in the cylinder head is easy.

In Summer 2022 on account of lack-of-smarts and being tired, I stripped badly one of the threaded holes in the cylinder head. I was in a rush to get my Toyota back on the road. I removed the stud (double nut technique); cleaned it and the hole with brake cleaner; applied Red LocTite; installed the stud by hand, tightening it until I felt resistance and the height was consistent with the other five studs; let the Red LocTite cure over a few days; installed the nut snug without torquing it to spec; and put all back together. I check the one stud/nut every few months. It has not budged. The nut does not turn, at least by mere hand.

Five other studs/nuts are holding the exhaust manifold on. My Toyota is running as good as or better than before. I would not normally trust Red LocTite for a job like this. But so far, so good.

 

The exhaust manifold has drilled (not threaded) holes. The cylinder head has the holes with the threads. Notice that it is studs and nuts that fasten the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head:
View attachment 441717


Thread size: M8X1.25? Double check me by taking one of the nuts to a hardware store and using the store's thread gauges.

Be aware that the cylinder head is aluminum alloy and so much softer than steel. Stripping the threaded holes in the cylinder head is easy.

In Summer 2022 on account of lack-of-smarts and being tired, I stripped badly one of the threaded holes in the cylinder head. I was in a rush to get my Toyota back on the road. I removed the stud (double nut technique); cleaned it and the hole with brake cleaner; applied Red LocTite; installed the stud by hand, tightening it until I felt resistance and the height was consistent with the other five studs; let the Red LocTite cure over a few days; installed the nut snug without torquing it to spec; and put all back together. I check the one stud/nut every few months. It has not budged. The nut does not turn, at least by mere hand.

Five other studs/nuts are holding the exhaust manifold on. My Toyota is running as good as or better than before. I would not normally trust Red LocTite for a job like this. But so far, so good.

The exhaust manifold has drilled (not threaded) holes. The cylinder head has the holes with the threads. Notice that it is studs and nuts that fasten the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head:
View attachment 441717


Thread size: M8X1.25? Double check me by taking one of the nuts to a hardware store and using the store's thread gauges.

Be aware that the cylinder head is aluminum alloy and so much softer than steel. Stripping the threaded holes in the cylinder head is easy.

In Summer 2022 on account of lack-of-smarts and being tired, I stripped badly one of the threaded holes in the cylinder head. I was in a rush to get my Toyota back on the road. I removed the stud (double nut technique); cleaned it and the hole with brake cleaner; applied Red LocTite; installed the stud by hand, tightening it until I felt resistance and the height was consistent with the other five studs; let the Red LocTite cure over a few days; installed the nut snug without torquing it to spec; and put all back together. I check the one stud/nut every few months. It has not budged. The nut does not turn, at least by mere hand.

Five other studs/nuts are holding the exhaust manifold on. My Toyota is running as good as or better than before. I would not normally trust Red LocTite for a job like this. But so far, so good.

Thank You for the thread size and pitch I guess I need that size Heli-Coil kit. My friend that is selling this car to my daughter did not know that when he bought this car all it needed was a timing belt replaced.The mechanic he picked replaced the entire engine for 1200.00 way too much I diagnosed it before he bought it and their was no compression in all the cylinders long story short it was replaced with a 92 5SFE engine I'm looking for a dip stick holder for it.

 

I’m trying to pull the CV axle out on the drivers side on my 96 Camry LE 2.2l transaxle would you know a way to pop it out the first time I removed it I used a slide hammer with a 90 degree metal plate to remove but that was when I was removing the old cv axle I had to separate the axle at the inner boot to gain more room this the new axle is there I don’t want to mess the new one on top of that the cover was messed up when I was bolting it back up broke off one of the bottom right tab causing it to leak I have already bought that cover at a salvage yard and trying to install it.Can you please me the best way to remove the axle

 

BillH50, I suggest starting a new thread on this topic. Also search youtube.

 

I’ve been searching all day on you tube tomorrow I’ll call the dealership and ask them to e-mail the procedure to remove and replace the cover

 

Just wanted to say the capacitors I ordered are already soldered in and the tachometer is working now I got to put in a new radiator Friday and cv axle drivers side cover replaced to test drive it so far I’ve replaced all the struts,rack and pinion assembly,lower ball joints,back stabilizer bushings,outer tie rod ends,replaced upper and lower timing covers,checking for oil pump leaks look good,replaced missing lower and upper dog bone brackets and dog bone mount,rebuild oil cooler with new gaskets and replace leaking bypass hoses,after I get it on the road I'm going to paint it with the original paint code metalic green thanks again for helping me.