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97 corolla 175k Auto 4A-FE 1.6L no spark replaced distributor no start weak/nospark

7.4K views 5 replies 2 participants last post by  DrZ  
#1 ·
Car died on freeway. $10 OBD codes show nothing. I replaced the distributor (coil pack, rotor, cap etc) all new (aftermarket) not refurb/remanufactured like you said. I see spark at the ignition coil pack, before going into the distributor (like before) nothing new. I didn't see spark at the center with a plug and wire where the rotor goes but I sure felt (it wasn't before) seems distributor is losing power possibly? Cap and rotor looked charrd and shot anyways.
When putting the new cap back on and testing the wires from distributor to plug, I get no spark.
I felt it kinda on spark plug 2 but it just arc and I felt it but didn't see it where I was holding it with the plug. What is up? I don't see spark on 1 at all, 2 is weak unsure on 3 and 4.
We already replaced the main DENSO relay
Thoughts? What should I test next the ECU? Crankshaft position sensor? 1.8L 7A-FE has a CKPS (crankshaft position sensor) on the side of the block near the oil dipstick tube.
4A-FE does not have a CKPS. What it does have is a G and NE pickup inside the distributor.
Unless people are mistaken here


https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/camshaft-positioning-sensor.236029/
What can cause a distributor to get power at the ignition, then lose it at the wire after replacing the part? Should I test the new part with a multimeter or

Being the 1.6L i'm at a loss as far as I know no adustiable timing.
The check engine light is on with the key on
Rotor is spinning and fuel is going so it's a weak spark even after new parts.
Battery was recharged and tested good.
replaced part
Amazon.com: MOSTPLUS Ignition Distributor Compatible for 1995-1997 Toyota Celica Corolla Prizm 4 Pins 19050-16030 94855714: Automotive
 
#2 ·
Both 7A-FE and 4A-FE have crank position sensor by the timing belt in years 96-97 when they switched to OBD2. Different distributors for 93-95 and 96-97, but the same for 4A and 7A in those year ranges.

The ECU has power and you can communicate with a code reader? Just making sure I understand what you wrote.
 
#4 ·
The wire to the crank position sensor goes down near the motor oil dipstick tube. You can disconnect it there and check the resistance. You can also test it with an ocsilliscope while cranking the engine for a more thorough test of the waveform.

Resistance
Cold: 1630-2740 Ohms
Hot: 2065-3225 Ohms

Recently, at least one person here (maybe two) had their crank position sensor crumble apart.
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Thank you kind sir. And when I assume hot you mean cranking or on? and the wire to the crank position sensor goes down near the motor oil dipstick tube so do I need to jackup the car and remove the tire then check near the dipstick tube? I looked but didn't see any sensor going in to seemed so I wasn't sure if I needed to remove the tire. Which would be left for tomorrow.
 
#6 ·
Hot means like if you measure the resistance right after the engine has been running and up to operating temperature.

I can't remember how long the pigtail is coming from the sensor. It might not be too easy to reach from above or below. It's crowded in that area with the belt, dipstick tube and bracket there.

This is the best picture I could find of the crank position sensor, but it doesn't show the connector.

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